ABBEY WAY

ABBEY WAY Sierra Ancha Wilderness In the forest south of Young, an obscure trail named for 70s eco-guru, Edward Abbey (1927-1989), snakes gently up to the highest point in the Sierra Ancha hills. Passionately protective of the southwest’s wilderness areas, Abbey wrote numerous environmental classics, including, The Monkey Wrench Gang and Desert Solitaire. He did some of his writing while working for two seasons as a forest service lookout in the fire tower on the summit of Aztec Peak. It is sadly ironic that stretches of Abbey Way were burnt to a crisp by the 2000 Coon Creek fire. Among the charred wooden corpses, survivor pines stand unscathed with seedlings beneath their branches. Abbey once said, “There are no vacant lots in nature.” Scrub oak, Arizona maples, agaves and wildflowers are new tenants amid the fertile remains of old growth. The summit, relatively untouched by the fire, features sandstone cliffs that had been the shoreline of an ancient Cambrian sea. Views from the top are unlike any in Arizona. Imagine taking the red rocks of Sedona, the Coconino limestone cliffs of the high county, some pine trees from Payson and the stream-side maples of New England, tossing them into a blender and flinging the results over the earth’s surface. Breathtaking. Whether you are a fan of its namesake or not, Abbey Way is a damn good trail. LENGTH: 4 miles round trip from the trailhead. 7 miles round trip from the gate. RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 6,400 to 7,750 feet GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take US 60 to just before Globe. Go north on SR 188 to 288 (Young Road). Follow 288, a dirt road, for about 14 miles to FR 487. Look for the sign: “Workman Creek Recreation Area”. Drive 16 miles on 487 to the gate with a sign reading: closed Dec. 15 – Mar. 31. You can park at the gate or drive an additional 1.5 miles to the 151 trailhead. But then, you’ll miss hiking past the cliffs and waterfalls. Passenger cars okay.

HOLBERT TRAIL

HOLBERT TRAIL TO DOBBINS LOOKOUT Phoenix South Mountain Park Phoenicians are lucky to live within sight of the nation’s largest municipal park. South Mountain Park sprawls across our southern horizon and has hundreds of miles of trails that may be hiked individually or in combination loops. The Holbert Trail is easy to access and a cinch to follow due to excellent trail maintenance as well as strategically placed signage. From the trailhead, the path begins by traversing “petroglyph alley”. Keep one eye on the boulders and cliffs while hiking the first flat half-mile. Ancient rock art appears everywhere, as does the evidence of artifact thieves. Once past the petroglyphs, the hike becomes more strenuous as it follows the canyon walls and gently switchbacks uphill to the junction for Dobbins Lookout. The trail is rocky and can be tricky in places, so, pay attention. Hang a right at the signed junction and haul up more switchbacks to popular Dobbins Lookout. An old stone building and numerous vista points with benches make Dobbins Lookout a nice spot to rest and enjoy great view of the Valley of the Sun. Although the City of Phoenix provides ample reciprocals for trash, the lookout area, which is accessible via a paved road, is habitually coated with a layer of crap. Gatorade bottles, beer cans, candy wrappers, Doritos bags and the remnants of romantic interludes. Don’t ask. On our last hike to the lookout, we took along plastic trash bags and policed the area for rubbish but could do nothing about the graffiti. It's interesting to note that garbage and graffiti rarely occur in areas that are not accessible by car. Hey all you beer guzzling, littering, tossers; here’s something to ponder—how safe do you think it is to drink alcohol on the summit of a narrow, winding mountain road and then get back behind the wheel? Wheeeeeee! Just a thought. Anyhooo, I do digress. On our way back down the mountain, several young men who had driven to Dobbins Lookout were perched on the summit, cans in hand and fixated on us with our black trash bags as if we were mutant tree huggers. As we passed beneath them on our descent, I felt a slight “ping” on my backpack, but thought nothing of it. Later that day, when unloading and cleaning my pack, I noticed an aluminum pop-top ring in the mesh side pocket of my pack. It smelled of beer. LENGTH: 5.8 miles roundtrip DIFFICULTY: moderate ELEVATION: 1,350'-2,370'  
FACILITIES: restrooms, water, picnic tables, covered ramadas
GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, follow Central Avenue south all the way to the end where it flows into South Mountain Park. Just past the park entrance gate, turn left into the Activity Complex. Drive past the Interpretive Center and go all the way to the end of the road near the restrooms and park. The signed trailhead is directly across the road. South Mountain Park is open from 5:30 a.m to dusk and access and parking is free.
INFO: City of Phoenix Parks & Recreation:
http://phoenix.gov/parks/trails/locations/south/hiking/index.html

GRAND FALLS

GRAND FALLS Navajo Nation Nicknamed the “Niagara of the Desert”, Grand Falls, located on the Navajo nation, puts on a thunderous water show worthy of comparison to its upstate-New York cousin. The 180-foot-high terraced falls were formed roughly 20,000 years ago when lava flows from nearby Merriam Crater (the prominent cinder cone visible on the drive in) dammed the gorge of the Little Colorado River forcing it to swerve and pour over the canyon walls. Bone-dry most of the year, the falls come to life in a rush of sediment-rich, muddy waters during spring snowmelt season (February – April) and following summer monsoon rains (July- September). Although there are no official trails at the falls, it’s easy to walk along the cliffs where a field of volcanic cinders and solidified tongues of black lava dripping over ochre-colored sandstone walls create an eerie, visceral landscape. Adventurous—and well-equipped—hikers can scramble down into the river channel for up-close views of this geological wonder. BEST SEASON: March-April and following summer monsoon rains ELEVATION: 4,700’ Distance from Phoenix: 180 miles northeast GETTING THERE: From Flagstaff, travel north on Highway 89A to Townsend-Winona Road (County Road 510). Turn left onto CR 510 and continue for just under 2 miles to Leupp Road (County Road 505). Follow Leupp Rd. for 15.2 miles and turn left onto Navajo Route 70, which is located just past a “Welcome to the Navajo Nation” sign. Drive north on Route 70 veering left at two junctions. At the 8.6-mile point, turn left onto an unmarked, primitive road that leads to the sun shelters and parking area. Route 70 is rough dirt, but passable by sedan.
INFO:
https://www.discovernavajo.com/grand-falls.aspx

BLACK CANYON TRAIL

BLACK CANYON TRAIL Near New River This relatively new path was officially opened in 1992 and runs north-and-south for 9.46 miles to connect trailheads at New River Road and Table Mesa Road west of I-17, with plans in the works to extend the trail for 62 miles! Although just a few miles north of civilization and the outlet malls, Black Canyon Trail retains much of its “old west’ appeal. Used for years to drive livestock and as a stagecoach route, the path parallels the old wagon road that ran between Phoenix and Prescott. The rolling terrain of this trail passes by remnants of the area’s colorful history (including an old bath tub) and offers several high desert ridge vista viewpoints. Plentiful trail signs mark the way along the first couple of miles, but after that, the signs disappear and many primitive roads and unofficial trails crisscross the area. It is a good idea to carry a GPS or trail-marker tape to help in managing your route. Much of the hiking is in highly eroded, sandy washes, lined with grasses and wildflowers. And, oh, just one more thing; all you morons out there who think it is fun to shoot up trail signs: “gee, thanks”, I sleep soundly knowing that all those, silk screened terrorist horses are good and dead. LENGTH: Optional: total one-way distance is nearly 10 miles RATING: Moderate ELEVATION GAIN: 1200 feet (lots of ups and downs) GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take I-17 north to exit 232 (New River Road). Turn left and follow New River Road for about 3 miles and look for the Emery Henderson Trailhead turn off on the right. The roads are paved all the way to the trailhead where there are nice restrooms, hitching posts, covered picnic areas and plenty of parking and a site host most of the time.

BLUFF SPRING LOOP

BLUFF SPRING LOOP Superstition Wilderness This scenic loop hike begins on the Dutchman’s Trail, which swings around the spires of Miners Needle and ascends 840 feet to the junction with the Whiskey Spring Trail. From there, continue on the Dutchman’s Trail down into a series of washes and gullies in the shadow of Bluff Spring Mountain where the desert flora changes from subdued to a palette of vibrant greens. Yucca, agaves, and cholla, frame views of the distant twin summits of Weavers Needle. Strategically placed rock cairns help in navigating drainage areas where water from seasonal rains and perennial springs lingers even in the driest months. Pick up the Bluff Spring Trail and follow its undulating course along the ridge overlooking Bark’s Canyon. Hundreds of feet below the trail, the rugged canyon is softened by lush vegetation cascading like spilled paint from the cliffs into a wash. Contorted shadows of hoodoos and eroded remnants of 35-million-year-old volcanic events play on the canyon walls. At the Terrapin Trail junction, stay on the Bluff Spring Trail, which crosses the canyon and descends back to the trailhead. LENGTH: 9 miles ELEVATION GAIN: 1500 feet (accumulated) RATING: Moderate GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take US 60 east to about 8 miles past Apache Junction and look for the brown “Peralta Trailhead” sign on the side of the road. Turn left here onto Peralta Road (Forest Road 77) and drive 8 miles to the trailhead.

ALTA-BAJADA LOOP

ALTA-BAJADA LOOP South Mountain Park Phoenix  The Alta trail is a rugged, edgy, uphill climb to an exposed ridgeline.  Once on the ridge, the trail rambles like a roller coaster ride with lots of loose rock under foot. Near the end of the trail, look for the spur paths that lead to the summit of Maricopa Peak--for a nice, but optional side trip. Once over the spine of the mountain, the trail heads steeply downhill and ends at the 4.5-mile point near the San Juan Lookout and ramada. From there, connect with the National Trail and follow it for 1.5 miles, cross San Juan Road and then pick up the Bajada Trail which winds for 3.2 miles through desert and rugged washes before it ends back at the trailhead. LENGTH: Alta: 4.8 miles, Bajada: 3.2 mile. ADD 1 mile for the road hike to the trailhead (9 miles roundtrip total loop). RATING: difficult ELEVATION: 1,280' - 2,430' GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, follow Central Avenue south to where it enters the park. From the park entrance, continue on the main road for almost two miles and then turn right onto San Juan Road. Follow San Juan Road for about a half mile and park at the gravel lot near the 2.5-mile marker. The trail starts across the road. NOTE: DUE TO A ROAD CLOSURE, YOU MUST NOW PARK AT THE JUNCTION OF SAN JUAN ROAD AND SUMMIT ROAD. TO REACH THE TRAILHEAD, HIKE UP SAN JUAN ROAD FOR JUST OVER A HALF MILE. UPDATE 2011: San Juan Road is open to vehicles the first weekend of every month for easy access to the Alta, Bajada and National trails. The road is closed to motor vehicles all other times.


INFO: City of Phoenix Parks & Recreation
http://phoenix.gov/parks/trails/locations/south/hiking/index.html

BARNHARDT REVISITED

When the wonderfully thick pine-fir woodlands of Barnhardt Canyon went up in flames, the devastation was already a few hundred years overdue. Yet, the fact that naturally-occurring forest fires are as inevitable as they are necessary for forest health, did little to keep my heart from aching that summer in 2005 when I kept watch on the plumes of smoke over the Mazatzal Mountains from my Scottsdale office as they made an agonizingly slow beeline toward Barnhardt Canyon. Fires of this nature happen every few hundred years, and it has been estimated that more than 500 years had passed since Barnhardt Canyon last took the heat. The day the fire swept up the canyon, the abundant fuels sent billowy white towers of smoke higher than on any other day of the month-long blaze. Mental images of smoldering trees and eroding slopes haunted me for days. In March of the following year, we decided to hike the Barnhardt trail to see the damage for ourselves. The drive in to the trailhead showed minimal fire damage and the parking area was completely intact---surrounded by healthy junipers and scrub oaks. A collective sigh and an “it’s not so bad afterall” attitude stayed with us for less than a mile of hiking. Fire is arbitrary in its path and fickle in choosing victims. The pattern of destruction in the canyon seems to make little sense. In places, acres of 100-foot-tall black matchsticks clung to the ravines, still smelling of smoke while random patches of oaks stood untouched. One striking sight was a lone agave—the sole survivor living in an alcove of soot and ash. Gone was the majestic grove of Ponderosa pines that shaded a stony side canyon where snowmelt tumbled downhill. The oak and manzanita hedges that lined a section of trail over a 1,000-foot drop off—gone. It seemed that the damage increased with the elevation. Our normally gregarious hiking group went silent when we rounded the bend past the upper falls. Here, the damage was absolute. Where a sea of manzanitas and scrub oaks had once dominated the landscape there was now nothing but dirt and ash. Save for the blackened remains of an old wooden junction sign placed on a charred tree stump, our beloved trail had been obliterated. Since the fire, we’ve been going back to Barnhardt every year. The trail has been restored and many of the burnt trees have toppled to the ground and are rapidly turning to dust. Vegetation is coming back strong, and this year, we even had a nice showing of wildflowers. With many of the trees gone, views of the areas complex geology have opened up and the trail has taken on a new flavor. Although it will be hundreds of years before the forests regenerate, the signs of recovery are encouraging. Until then, random, fickle things, like the sprouts that emerged from the lone survivor agave this spring, keep us entertained. Happy trails, Mare SEE MY 2010 ENTRY FOR A VIDEO OF THE UPPER WATERFALL. See prior entry for trail information.

VERDE RIVER GREENWAY

VERDE RIVER GREENWAY Dead Horse Ranch State Park Weaving among gigantic Arizona sycamore, Freemont cottonwood and Goodding willow trees, this trail stays on the cliffs above the Verde River. Patched together with wooden plank bridges, the route showcases excellent views of cattail-choked coves that support one of the highest concentrations of nesting birds in the United States. This precious riparian gallery forest of trees shrubs and grasses is one of only five remaining in Arizona-- and twenty in the world. Nearly twenty endangered species including the southwestern willow flycatcher, river otter, lowland leopard frog, spikedace minnow, Colorado squawfish and the southwestern bald eagle depend on this rare environment for their survival. ELEVATION RANGE: 3,300 DOG RATING: Dogs must stay on leash and out of the water. Driving distance from Phoenix: 130 miles one-way GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to Camp Verde (exit 287) and take Highway 260 west to Cottonwood. Turn left on Main Street (89A toward Clarkdale) and continue to 10th Street. Turn right on 10th St. and proceed over the Verde River Bridge to the park entrance. From the park entrance, take the second right on the road leading to the Mesquite Day Use Area. The trail starts in the left parking area. INFO: Visit pr.state.az.us/Parks/parkhtml/deadhorse.html or call (928) 634-5283 To learn more about the national Wild & Scenic River System, visit: rivers.gov/wst-verde.html To learn about potential threats to the river’s survival, visit: biologicaldiversity.org/campaigns/save_the_verde/index.html Fee: There’s a day use fee per vehicle.

JACOB'S CROSSCUT

JACOB’S CROSSCUT TRAIL Tonto National Forest The rough-hewn silhouettes of the Superstition and Goldfield mountains make the perfect backdrop for the wildflower madness that occurs each spring. The Jacob’s Crosscut Trail # 58, which skirts Lost Dutchman State Park, is one of the best places to get your fill of blooms. Beginning as early as late January and running through April, millions of poppies, lupines, fairy dusters, chia, chicory and many other colorful buds line the well-defined route. LENGTH: 6.5 miles one-way RATING: easy ELEVATION RANGE: 1,880’ – 2,110’ GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take Highway 60 east to the Idaho Road (Highway 88) exit. Continue east on Highway 88 past the Lost Dutchman State Park. Just past the park, turn right onto First Water Road (FR 78) and drive 1 mile to the signed Crosscut trailhead on the right.

APACHE VISTA

APACHE VISTA Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest UPDATE: This trail has been damaged by the WALLOW FIRE, June 2011. Check with the forest service for updates.  Hovering over the town of Springerville in Arizona’s White Mountains, the Apache Vista Trail #617 showcases outstanding high-country scenery. Situated at 9,000 feet in elevation, the gentle path traipses through wide-open alpine meadows along the edge of a deep, forested canyon. Cool summer temperatures and ample rain foster profuse growths of multi-colored wildflowers and towering old-growth conifers. It’s no accident that the trail has the word “vista” in its name. Expansive views of volcanic fields and river gorges that stretch all the way into New Mexico are this trail’s signature attraction. LENGTH: 5.2 miles round-trip RATING: easy ELEVATION GAIN: 50 feet GETTING THERE: From downtown Eagar, go west on Highway 260 for roughly 3 miles to the Highway 261 junction. From there, turn left (south) on Highway 261 and continue for 7.2 miles to the trailhead on the left. INFORMATION: www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf (928) 333-4372

BIG LAKE LOOKOUT

BIG LAKE LOOKOUT Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

UPDATE:

This trail was impacted by the WallowFire on June 4, 2011. This scenic spur route leaves the Indian Springs Trail at a signed junction located about a half-mile from the trailhead. Adding a heart-pumping extra mile to the loop hike described below, the short but steep trail leads to the site of the former 30-foot-tall, 1930s-era fire tower. Situated at 9,415 feet, the tower was anchored into a rocky outcropping high above the Big Lake recreation area. Although the tower is gone,  excellent views make this side trip worth the extra effort. LENGTH: 2 miles round-trip (if done as an out-an-back hike from the trailhead). RATING: moderate ELEVATION GAIN: 315 feet GETTING THERE: see Indian Springs entry below

INDIAN SPRINGS LOOP

INDIAN SPRINGS LOOP Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

2012 UPDATE: Trail is open and hikers that report damage from the June 2011 Wallow Fire is not too bad.  Peppered with remnants of mid-twentieth century logging and railroad operations, this forested loop hike is rich in discovery. Set in a peaceful high-country environment, the trail embarks on a journey through history. Sights along the way include depression-era water troughs, an old cinder-bed railroad grade, cattle guards and a colorful display of gigantic wild mushrooms. The mostly-level trail weaves among refreshing timberlands and fragrant meadows crossing forest roads three times until the loop comes full-circle back at the trailhead. LENGTH: 7.5-mile loop RATING: moderate ELEVATION GAIN: 300 feet GETTING THERE: From downtown Eagar, go west on Highway 260 for roughly 3 miles to Highway 261. Turn left (south) on Highway 261 and continue for about 16 miles to Highway 273. Go left on Highway 272 and continue nearly 3 miles to Forest Road 249E. Turn right on FR-249E and drive approximately a third-of-a-mile to the trailhead on the left. INFORMATION: fs.fed.us/r3/asnf (928) 333-4301

MAVERICK SPRING

MAVERICK SPRING Coronado National Forest This secondary path is a pleasant and shady detour to a secluded seep area. To find this hidden gem, start out on the Green Mountain trail and hike for roughly 1.5 miles to the sign for “Maverick Spring” (ignore the negative graffiti that’s scrawled onto the metal post) and continue downhill to a cozy enclave where canyon grapes and wild raspberries thrive in the damp soil. LENGTH: 0.8-mile side trip RATING: easy ELEVATION: 6000'-7300' GETTING THERE: see Green Mountain entry

GREEN MOUNTAIN

GREEN MOUNTAIN Coronado National Forest Clinging to the slopes along scenic Catalina Highway in Tucson, the Green Mountain trail winds through a wilderness of wind-sculpted granite boulders. The steep, rugged route rambles among bizarre stone outcroppings--never straying far from the edge of the mountain and views of the yawning San Pedro River Valley below. Recent wildfires in the area (Ignore my personal snark: “there is no global warming, there is no global warming” ) have destroyed large portions of the forests that formerly shaded the trail. However, the spectacular vistas that have opened up as a result, make up for the loss. To really appreciate this trail, be sure to explore the spur paths that lead to lookout points on the cliffs where dizzying views of the surrounding mountain ranges fill the horizon. Even though this trail hovers between 6,000 and 7,300 feet in elevation, it still gets very warm in the summer months so, it’s best to plan an early start. LENGTH: 7.2 miles round-trip RATING: difficult ELEVATION: 6000' - 7300' FEE: $5 daily fee per vehicle. Exact change is required at the self-serve pay station. GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take Interstate 10 to Tucson. In Tuscon, exit I-10 at Grant Road (exit 256). Go left on Grant Road and continue to Tanque Verde Road. Go left on Tanque Verde and continue to the turn off for Catalina Highway. Follow Catalina Highway for about 22 miles to the Upper Green Mountain trailhead (just before the San Pedro Vista Lookout area). INFORMATION: fs.fed.us/r3/Coronado (520) 388-8300