Vulture Mountain Ruins

VULTURE MOUNTAIN RUINS

Vulture Peak viewed from BLM 9052

Surrounded by an eclectic sampling of Arizona’s 194 named mountain ranges, The Vulture Mountains occupy a space rich in natural resources and human history. 

Hieroglyphic and Wickenburg Mountains view

The crescent-shaped range is comprised of a string of mounds 29 miles long and 13 miles wide located a dozen miles southwest of Wickenburg at the edge of Maricopa County.  

Hikers admire a twisted saguaro on BLM 9052

The Hassayampa River, a roughly 100-mile-long desert waterway that originates near Prescott and flows south, mostly underground, to merge with the Gila River, marks the eastern extent of the range. 

Saguaros dot a ravine in the Vulture Mountains

Its highpoint, 3,658-foot Vulture Peak, serves as Wickenburg’s most iconic land feature and the axis around which a cluster of defunct mining operations orbit.  

Hike begins with a crossing of the Hassayampa River

A network of Bureau of Land Management roads that are open to hikers, equestrians, and motorized use, provide access to the mineral-rich backcountry. 

Relics of mine ops in the Vulture Mountains

The main access point for exploratory adventures is by way of Gates Road in the community of Morristown.  The paved part of the road dead ends where Little San Domino Wash spills into the Hassayampa River.  

Relics protected by the Antiquities Act

 

From there, trail users may hike or drive across the usually dry floodplain to a gate where BLM road 9054 serves as entree to miles of dirt roads.  

Packrat middens are plentiful along BLM 9054

The best thing about hiking here is the joy of discovery.  Every road and side trail holds new vistas, natural arches, and points of interest, so there’s no bad plan.  Just pick a road and go.  One outing to try uses the clearly signed roads 9054 and 9052.

From the entry gate at the river, 9054 heads uphill, passing by the first of many optional side trips to an old mine site.  Mountain vistas make their first appearance at the top of a knoll with jaw-dropping looks at the Hieroglyphic and Wickenburg Mountains to the east, the Date Creek and Weaver Mountains to the north and the Bradshaw Mountains on the far northern horizon.

Washes feed into the Hassayampa River

Hikers trek BLM 9052

As the undulating route delves deeper into the boondocks, the distinctive forms of Vulture Peak and 3,044-foot Caballeros Peaks stand out to the northwest standing high above a cholla and saguaro studded landscape. 

Date Creek and Weaver Mountains to the north

At the two-mile point, this trip heads left onto road 9052, gaining and loosing elevation steadily.  At the 2.9-mile point, road 9052 veers left at a large white tank, then heads downhill and crosses a couple of washes before heading up yet again to meet an array of roadside mining detritus.  These minor prospects might have been the spawn of a nearby major mine operation.  The Vulture Mine and its companion Vulture City community was the hub of gold and silver extraction from 1863-1942. The core operation and a smattering of pick-and-shovel prospects mined the surface gold that was easily extracted by hand from exposed late Cretaceous pluton of quartz porphyry that shed bits of precious minerals in flakes, nuggets, and dust. 

Serial misfortunes including mismanagement, low gold prices, and high overhead caused sporadic closures and ownership changes until production in the area dribbled to a halt 1942. Some residual mineral extraction happened during World War II and limped into the 1960s when lingering deposits of copper, gold and lead were pulled from tailings and open shafts.

The abandoned Vulture Mountain mine sites had names that underpin their mysterious pasts. Details of the yields and histories of the Newsboy Mine, Montezuma Mine, Queen of Sheba Mine, El Tigre Mine, et al are buried in dusty boxes full of decades old claims.  

Artifacts near a mine prospect

Only the

Vulture Mine retains a semblance of its former glory. The site is now a privately owned tourist venue that preserves the dream of pulling riches from the desert. The lesser wildcat strikes live in comparative obscurity along ragged dirt roads in the hills above the Hassayampa River.  There’s little left to mark many of the small prospects.  Discarded cans, rotting wood planks, rusty nails and tailings scattered among chunks of quartz and metamorphic rocks crusted with brilliant blue green chrysocolla, a soft mineral associated with copper ore.

Gate at the Hassayampa River

When visiting historic sites, it’s important to help protect them. Federal law states that it is illegal to remove any artifact 50 years-old or older from public lands  (36 CFR 800,Title 18: Theft and Destruction of Government Property, the 1906 Antiquities Act, and the National Historic Preservation Act (NHPA) of 1966). An artifact is defined as anything made, modified, or used by humans. That would include cans, bottles, bricks, nails, tools, weapons, etc. When in doubt--leave it!  The historic artifacts link below helps identify common sightings.

Vulture Mountain scene on BLM 9054

At a spot along road 9052 that was probably a favorite lunch break hangout, dozens of rusted cans, crumpled metal, and sun-bleached wood litter a hillock overlooking the expanse of the Hassayampa Basin. To the southwest, the silhouette of the Harquahala Mountains rise to 5,681 feet above the flatlands filling the skyline.

Enjoy the discovery, but leave as is.

It’s easy to see why work wary miners would choose this serene locale to kick back with a can of beans after a long day of digging leaving behind relics for us to ponder.

LENGTH: 8.3 miles (to the lunch miner lunch spot and back)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 1,767– 2,229 feet (1,225 feet of accumulated elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to State Route 74 (Carefree Highway).  Take SR 74 west (toward Wickenburg) for 30 miles to U.S. 60. Turn left and go 0.8-mile on U.S. 60 to Gates Road at milepost 121, turn right and continue 2.3 miles to the trailhead at Little Domingo Wash. Do not park within a quarter mile of the livestock water tank and respect private property in the area. Access roads are paved.

FUN HISTORY & SCIENCE:

http://docs.azgs.az.gov/OnlineAccessMineFiles/S-Z/VultureMaricopa273-2.pdf

HISTORIC ARTIFACT IDENTIFICATION GUIDE:

https://www.ntc.blm.gov/krc/system/files?file=legacy/uploads/22015/HistoricArtifactIDGuide.pdf

Hassayampa River Hike from Kerkes Trailhead

Kerkes Trailhead

The leafy fringes of the Hassayampa River

Hiking on sand has many benefits.  The constant sinking and shifting of the soft, uneven substrate helps build strength in foot, ankle and leg muscles while the extra exertion required to slog through the pace-slowing mineral grains is a calorie-busting bonus.  A sandy place makes for a great post-holiday redemption hike to atone for those extra slices of pie that somehow settle around the waistline.

The Kerkes Trailhead in Wickenburg offers legal access to the river bed

Although land-locked Arizona is located many miles from the nearest ocean, it’s still possible to get all the benefits of sand hiking without the long drives; if you know where to go. 

Cottonwood trees display golden foliage in late Fall

Washes, desert sand dunes, drifts of weathered sandstone and dry riverbeds serve just as well as any coastline.  A good place to gain your inland sea legs is the Hassayampa River.

Domestic cattle roam the area near Downtown Wickenburg

Running for 100 miles between the Bradshaw Mountains near Prescott and the Gila River south of Phoenix the Hassayampa River flows mostly underground. Except after storms, the wide, sandy corridor is dry and stable enough to stroll, ride or drive.  The new Kerkes trailhead in Wickenburg, which opened in December 2019, provides legal access to the Hassayampa River bed for hikers, equestrians and off-highway vehicle use.  The roomy trailhead sits above the river corridor where a dirt road cuts through tangled mesquite thickets to land recreationists at a signed gateway. From this point, just follow the riverbed in either direction.  In late fall and early winter, head south (go right from the trailhead sign) to augment the good work out, with a spectacular “desert Autumn” foliage display. The pseudo-beach environ swaps ocean waves for miles of fine-textured sand, course gravel and water-transported debris. Along the waterway margins, cottonwoods and willows that tower above mesquite forests and random saguaros display brilliant yellow foliage. 

Seep willows grow in the sandy river bed

While reminiscent of an oceanside, the river retains a distinctly Old West flavor.  

Flood debris left behind from when the river flows after storms.

Less than a mile from Downtown Wickenburg, domestic cattle often wander into the riverbed as do javelina, rabbits, coyote and deer. 

Thick mesquite forest at the Kerkes trailhead

The sandy river bed makes for a good workout

On the west side of the river, the rumble and whistles of passing trains add a rural soundtrack to the hike.  The southbound trip ends at the 1.34-mile point where the water course enters the Hassayampa River Preserve, one of the few places where the river flows above ground.

The Kerkes trailhead was completed in December 2019.

Cottonwoods & willows line the course of the Hassayampa River

When hiking here, wear sturdy footwear with good ankle support. A hiking pole comes in handy for keeping your balance.  Whether hiked as this short 2.68-mile out-and-back option or as a longer trek heading north, you’ll feel the burn.

A festive Wickenburg welcome.

LENGTH: Southbound: 1.34 miles to the Hassayampa River Preserve boundary (fee area)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 1,970 – 2,039 feet

GETTING THERE:  From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to State Route 74 (Carefree Highway).  Follow SR 74 west (toward Wickenburg) for 30 miles to U.S. 60. Turn right and continue to the U.S. 60/93 traffic circle in Wickenburg.  Veer left through the circle, merge onto S. Kerkes Street and continue 0.2-mile to the trailhead on the left.

 

RED CLIFF

RED CLIFF

Hassayampa River, Wickenburg

Red Cliff is a dominant feature along the Hassayampa River

 Striking in its simplicity, the hike to Red Cliff slips through a spare, water-ravaged landscape just a few miles south of the town of Wickenburg.  Surrounded by the oddly formed peaks of the Vulture and Harquahala Mountains, railroad tracks and acres of shadeless plains, the route is a stomping ground for ATV riders, roaming livestock and a disturbingly robust community of turkey vultures.

Flood debris in the Hassayampa River

Nothing about the dirt staging area at the mouth of Little Domingo Wash screams “gateway to an epic hike”.  

Mud flats define the course of the Hassayampa River

A scraggly fringe of spindly willows, mesquite and invasive tamarisk survive among tire tracks, cow pies and horse apples.  

One of many gates beyond Red Cliff help contain cattle

Small aircraft sometimes glide into a nearby backcountry landing strip and occasional 4x4s hauling trailers rumble over a maze of dusty dirt roads that lead to abandoned mines and homesteads. As stark and unpromising as it appears, this is the start point of an interesting walk that explores the anatomy of a major desert waterway.

Lush desert vegetation grows along the river

This section of the Hassayampa River is a recreational hub

Over its 100-mile length, the Hassayampa River flows through a variety of eco-zones and amazing topography. From its humble source in the pine-covered Bradshaw Mountains south of Prescott to where it empties into the Gila River southwest of Phoenix, the river runs through mountain woodlands, gorges, plains and riparian corridors.

Desert marigolds bloom in the dry river bed.

Except in a few places like the Hassayampa River Preserve at Vulture Mountain Recreation Area along U.S. 60 where water flows above ground year-round, the waterway runs underground.   In this area of the river that’s located about 28 miles north of Interstate 10 and roughly 40 miles north of the Gila River, surface water exists in the form of flash floods and fugitive puddles.  

Invasive tamarisk (salt cedar) is common along the river

Volcanic cliffs flank the Hassayampa River bed

Rain water and snowmelt deposits that roar through the river’s wide corridor are quickly absorbed into the porous ground.  Within hours to days, the only signs of recent water works are debris piles and mud flats.  But water has shaped the character of this rugged desert back county for thousands of years. Running water has scoured channels, chiseled cliffs and leached precious minerals from the area’s volcanic and sedimentary rocks thus attracting mining operations and ranchers to this otherwise desolate land 30 miles west of Phoenix.

Water disappears quickly in this desert waterway

The trek begins where Little San Domingo Wash merges with the course of the Hassayampa River.  Because water is constantly altering the terrain, this is a hunt-and-peck sort of hike.  Head left (south) from the wash and follow the riverbed. Although there’s no standard path, it’s 

advisable to dodge your way around the willows and debris and hike close to the cliffs on the west bank of the river.  

Many gates along the way remind that this is cattle country

At roughly the half-mile point, a gate near a huge saguaro marks where a rough dirt road parallels the river, it’s a short but scenic diversion and a nice change from walking in sand and mud.  At the 1.5-mile point, first glimpses of Red Cliff come into view.  

The scoured course of the Hassayampa River

The brilliant red-orange escarpment soars to 2,091 feet--360 feet above the river.  Mesquite, Palo verde and ironwood trees huddle at its base while raptors and vultures roost in its many nooks and shallow caves.

Many dirt roads weave through the hills around the river

Although this stony piece de resistance is the main objective of the hike, the trek may be extended by passing a barbed wire gate at the 2-mile point (the first of several that control the roamings of domestic cattle) and continuing south as far as you like.

Desert trees and shrubs thrive at the base of Red Cliff

LENGTH: 4 miles to Red Cliff and back

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 1,710 – 1,771 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to State Route 74 (Carefree Highway).  Take SR 74 west (toward Wickenburg) for 30 miles to U.S. 60. Turn left and go 0.8-mile on U.S. 60 to Gates Road at milepost 121, turn right and continue 2.3 miles to the trailhead at Little Domingo Wash. Do not park within a quarter-mile of the livestock water tank and respect private property in the area. Access roads are paved.

DINOSAUR WASH

DINOSAUR WASH

A slot canyon in Dinosaur Wash

If you stay alert on this hike, it’s easy to spot the Stegosaurus.  But you’ll have to navigate a convoluted trail system to get to it; and that’s not so easy.

The  Stegosaurus-shaped rock outcropping looms above Dinosaur Wash with its head twisted back over a scaled spine frozen in a posture that looks like the losing side of a Jurassic joust.  This signature basaltic formation is the only “dinosaur” you’ll see while trudging through the eponymous wash that’s a part of the Sophie’s Flat Trail system north of Wickenburg.  What you will see though, is a mix of spectacular desert vistas, hardscrabble gullies, volcanic peaks and a matrix of sandy washes.  

Dinosaur Wash

Although it’s just a few miles north of town, the trail system has a pure wild west, middle-of-nowhere feel. The looped trails are blandly named A,B,C,D and E, but they’re anything but boring.  The core A Trail begins at the Sophie’s Flat trailhead where there’s ample parking, a horse staging area and restrooms.

View from the pass

A map kiosk shows the trail layout that belies a confusing start, missing signs and several tricky turns.  The trek to Dinosaur Wash involves linking the A, B, C and D trails for a 9.5-mile out-and-back hike. 

The most difficult route-finding happens near the start where after descending to a sprawling arroyo, the A Trail gets swallowed up in shifting sands.  Although there are signs in the wash, they are tough to find. However, once at the point where the A Trail begins its first uphill ascent, signage becomes clearer.  From beginning to end, it’s a challenging hike with continual dips, climbs and calf-burning slogs through beachy washes.  

It's a tough hike with lots of ups and downs,

The dinosaur rock

After 3 miles, the best views of the hike come at a mountain pass between Creighton Peak and Red Top where the serpentine course of the Hassayampa River and tendril drainages whittle through a desert of ragged peaks and chiseled canyons.  From the pass, the route dives down toward the destination. Watch carefully for another befuddling junction where the trail meets two A Trail sign posts near a giant boulder. Look for an unsigned path that heads north between the two signs. This is the D Trail that leads to the wash. As you trudge downhill among ocotillos and hedgehog cacti, keep an eye out for the stegosaurus rock formation looming out from the cliffs. Some argue that it looks more like a bear, lizard, hawk or a boa constrictor. Regardless of what one might see in the lithic form, it’s an entertaining point of contention and a great photo opp.  

Geological stew in Dinosaur Wash

Hang a left where the path dead ends at the wash.

You might want to tie a bandana here (take it with you when you return) because beyond this point, there are no trail signs and this junction is easy to miss on the way back.  The next mile of hiking is the icing on the cake for those who have managed to get through the maze.  Dinosaur Wash expands and contracts as it wiggles through sections of a broad dry river course, stony corridors and box canyons built of churned and jostled lava flows, sculpted sediments and fossil stream beds.

Uninspiring names for inspiring trails

Look for chunks of blue basalt tossed with red sandstones, an old mining claim and rock pockets dripping with pack rat middens.

Hikers on the A Trail

Other than the pain of hiking through sand and a few minor down climbs, reasonably fit hikers should be able to get to the 4.97-mile point where a slick rock drop off would require more serious scrambling to continue another mile to the Hassayampa River, Mistake Mine Ruins and the Box Canyon. The drop off makes for a good spot to take a break and discuss (or argue) over whether the dino rock is a bird, reptile or mammal before heading back the way you came.

On the B Trail

HIKE DIRECTIONS:

From the trailhead, follow A Trail 1.1-mile to B Trail. Follow B Trail to the 1.88-mile point, veer right and follow C Trail to the 2.39-mile point and turn left on the A Trail. Follow A Trail to the 2.91-mile point and connect with D Trail.  Follow D Trail less than a mile, drop into the obvious course of Dinosaur Wash and head northwest (left).  Hike to the 4.97-mile point and turn around at a slick rock drop off.

LENGTH: 9.5 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 2337’- 2789’ (1100’ cumulative gain)

Overlooking the Hassayampa River basin

FACILITIES: restroom, map kiosk

GETTING THERE: Sophie's Flat Trailhead:

From Phoenix go north on Interstate 17 to Carefree Hwy/State Route 74 (exit 223). Go 30 miles west on SR 74 toward Wickenburg, turn right at US60 and continue to just before the Hassayampa River Bridge traffic circle in Wickenburg.  Turn right on El Recreo, go 0.25 mile and veer right onto Constellation Road. Continue 2.7 miles, turn left onto Blue Tank Road and drive 1.3 miles to the trailhead on the right. The last 4 miles are on undulating dirt roads suitable for sedans.

INFO:

https://www.blm.gov/visit/sophies-flat-trail