WALNUT CANYON RIM

WALNUT CANYON RIM

Vista point on Passage 31 of the Arizona Trail

Arizona Trail Passage 31 runs for 17.9 miles between Marshall Lake and Interstate 40 southeast of Flagstaff.  Because it’s one of the shorter of the 43 passages that make up the 800-mile, state-traversing route, strong hikers can complete it in a day. Blasting through the entire section in a day makes for an epic trek, but numerous access points along the route provide ways to create abbreviated hikes that sample some of the most gorgeous slices of this high-country path.

Arizona valerian grow on moist slopes

The hike traces the rim of Walnut Canyon in Flagstaff

One to try begins at dirt parking apron along Old Walnut Canyon Road.

The moderate trek in Coconino National Forest links wildflower meadows, pine-oak woodlands, a dip into a tapered canyon and amazing vista points overlooking Walnut Canyon National Monument-- a 3600-acre site that protects archeological and natural resources--for a varied, moderate hike. 

The trek begins on a wide, flat path that weaves among pine groves and meadows with glimpses of antenna-cluttered Mount Elden (9298’) to the north.  

The rich soil and sun exposure foster acres of colorful wildflowers like stemless daisies, lupine and paintbrush.

At the 0.4-mile point, turn right at the Campbell Mesa Trails sign and continue on a mild uphill path. Just beyond a wildlife water hole, the trail meets a set of switchbacks carved from limestone escarpments that mitigate a descent along the canyon walls.  Hanging close to the edge, the slim trail passes among rock overhangs and clusters of yucca that cling precariously to cracks in the stony substrate. As the trail dives deeper into the canyon, enormous “yellow bellies” (mature Ponderosa pines that have developed a scaly, yellowish-brown bark) filter sunlight while rangy snags (dead, standing trees) attract insect-seeking birds and nesting critters. While passing through this enchanted forest, be sure to stop and smell the yellow bellies. 

A lupine about to bloom on the Arizona Trail

Their sap has an aroma that’s been described as butterscotch, vanilla and cherry. (My personal take on this fragrance is a top note of sugared cedar, a heart of moss and a base note of patchouli.)   In moist areas under the trees, look for tiny pink Arizona valerian flowers.  The tubular clusters can be seen poking out from blankets of pine needles through early summer.

Brilliant paintbrush are common bloomers along the AZT

Several spur paths lead to scenic points above Walnut Cny.

The short canyon section ends with a climb back up to the rim where the first vista point junction appears at 2.2-miles. To visit the scenic ledge, head left and hike the 0.2-mile spur to a promontory at the western edge of the national monument. Here, a fringe of conifers frame views of a heavily-forested bend in the meandering canyon. It’s a 300-foot drop from the breezy rim to the canyon floor with no guardrails to stymie a stumble.

Stemless daisies bloom in sunny meadows

So, explore carefully before retracing your steps back to the junction and continuing 1.1 mile on to the next vista detour where a 0.6-mile spur leads to more big sky panoramas and impressive canyon views. 

A pine shaded meadow along the route.

If you’re up for more, there are two more vista points before the trail moves off the rim.

Switchbacks mitigate a descent into the canyon

A wildlife water hole on the Arizona Trail

One is located another 1.1 miles down the trail while Fisher Point, the most famous of them all, marks the end of the tour 6.4 miles from the trailhead.

Stop and smell the yellow bellies

Yucca sprout from the craggy canyon walls

Limestone slabs and overhangs line the route

The trail hugs the canyon edge

LENGTH:

To the first vista point and back: 4.8 miles

To the second vista point and back: 7.8 miles

To Fisher Point and back: 12.8 miles

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 6613 - 6920 feet  to second vista point, (7033' to Fisher Point)

GETTING THERE:

From the Interstate 17/40 junction in Flagstaff, go 5.4 miles east on I 40 to exit 201 (Country Club Road). Turn right and  go 0.9-mile south to Old Walnut Canyon Road (Forest Road 303, turn left and continue 2.7 miles to the parking area on the right.

Snags (dead, standing trees) attract wildlife

The hike begins at the small Arizona Trail sign on the south side of the road. The last 0.3-mile is on rough dirt best suited for high-clearance vehicles.

INFO: Arizona Trail Association

https://aztrail.org/explore/passages/passage-31-walnut-canyon/

Embracing the details of an ordinary trail

SANDY SEEP TRAIL

Flagstaff

Fire scars visible on the ridge

This easy trail at the base of Elden Mountain rarely makes it onto the typical hiker's bucket list.  Widely regarded as a "connector" route for some of Flagstaff's more iconic trails (Fat Mans Loop, Little Elden, Arizona Trail) trekkers plow through this repurposed Jeep road like rockets on their way to the moon.  Although power hiking is valid use of public lands, there's also much to be gained by embarking on pensive sightseeing walks. This style of hiking embraces the details of otherwise "throw away" trails making them journeys to savor rather than tedious means to an end.  And, there's a lot to see on Sandy Seep trail.  Here's a sample of how to savor the details:

Hug a Yellow belly. Ponderosa pines that are at least 150 years old develop scaly yellowish bark with aromas similar to butterscotch, vanilla, cherry-almond and other sweet confections---take whiff!

Brush up on your geology. Bring a guidebook and learn to identify volcanic rocks like pumice, basalt, and obsidian.

Stop and smell the cliff-rose. The dominant flowering shrub on the trail blooms from April through September.

Survey Fire scars: Witness how the landscape is recovering from both the 1977 Radio Fire and 2010 Schultz Fire. The scars are visible on the high slopes to the west of the trail.

Sing with Stellars jays. These vociferous, electric blue birds sport pronounced feathered head crests and are easy to spot rustling about in the pines.

See the "seep". Located about 0.5 mile past the Little Elden/Christmas Tree junction (go right) a 

water-hogging depression feeds a tiny green cienega.

Hound for horned lizards. They're talented at hiding in plain sight, so be wary of stepping on one. Look for them near their food source--anthills.

Horned lizard

LENGTH: 6 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 6900' - 7300'

GETTING THERE:

Sandy Seep trailhead:

From Phoenix, travel north on I17 to the I40 interchange in Flagstaff.  Head east on I40 to exit 201 for US89 north.  Drive north on US89 to milepost 421 (0.5 mile north of  Townsend-Winona Road) and turn left onto FR 9139 and drive 0.1 mile to the trailhead.

INFO:

Yellow belly Ponderosa pine

Flagstaff Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, 928-526-0866

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=55170&actid=50

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ARIZONA TRAIL: HAY MEADOW

AZ TRAIL PASSAGE #29

Near Clint's Well

We love smelling trees. Not just any old species---we prefer “yellow bellies” -- the crème de la crème of local aromatic timbers.

Yellow bellies are mature Ponderosa pines with distinctive yellow-brown, scaly plates enveloping their trunks. This species can live 300-600 years and it takes between 150-250 years before the smoother ash brown bark the trees are born with evolves into the fragrant veneer we love to savor. When warmed by the summer sun, the bark emits an olfactory spectrum of scents like butterscotch, vanilla, cinnamon, cherry-almond and a pungent delight I’ve dubbed “eau de bois”. No tree smells exactly like its neighbor and connoisseurs will gravitate toward the complex aromas of the largest, crustiest specimens. Because northern Arizona—specifically the Mogollon Rim-- is home to the world’s largest swath of Ponderosa pines, it’s easy to find a forest to inhale by hiking various Rim-area passages of the Arizona Trail.

Hay Meadow is a good place to start. Following a portion of the 32-mile Happy Jack passage #29, this hike features some truly gourmet pine sniffing opportunities. Mostly flat, the route passes through a patchwork of conifer-oak woodlands and sun drenched meadows before dipping 400 feet into the narrow corridor of Jack’s Canyon. Near the end of the canyon, trail signage tends to succumb to the ravages of toppled trees, winter runoff and rock slides, making the route difficult to find. It’s here where we end the casual “Hay Meadow” trek, returning the way we entered---a blithe band of bark-breathing backpackers.

LENGTH: 7 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 6,838’ – 6,585’

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 125 miles one-way

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go north on I17 to Camp Verde. Connect to SR260 east (toward Payson) and travel 31 miles to the SR87 junction. Turn left (north) and go 9 miles on SR87 to Clint’s Well. From here, continue 8.3 miles to the turnoff for the Moqui campground (FR138). There will be a “Moqui” sign a few hundred feet before the road on the right. Turn right onto FR138 where a sign located roughly 50 yards in from SR87 reads: "Blue Ridge Campground/Moqui Campground/138". The trailhead is on the left about 100 yards from SR87.

ALTERNATE: From Phoenix, take Loop 202 east, connect with SR87 north and follow it through Payson and Pine-Strawberry all the way to the trailhead. It's a few miles longer this way, but the scenery is nice.

HIKE DIRECTIONS:

From the trailhead, hike back out to SR87, cross the highway heading north to a gated dirt road (FR9852). Pass the gate and follow the road a few hundred yards to the signed turnoff for the AZ Trail on the right. From here, watch carefully for AZT signposts and rock cairns to stay on track.

INFO: Coconino National Forest, Mogollon Rim Ranger District: http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation/mog_rim/az-tr-happyjack.shtml

Arizona Trail Association:

http://www.aztrail.org/passages/pass_29.html

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