Black Mountain Canyon

BLACK MOUNTAIN CANYON

Parsons Tank on FR 9243B in Prescott NF

It’s just 582 feet downhill from the paved byway of State Route 260 to the rocky course of Black Mountain Canyon but hiking the dirt back road to get to get to it is deceptively more complicated. Located in a hilly section of the Upper Verde River Volcanic Field in Yavapai County 15 miles east of Camp Verde, Forest Road 9243B cuts through dramatic terrain with a backstory of lava flows, ash deposits, water-scoured canyons and countless geological disruptions. 

The rocky course of Black Mountain Canyon

The rough two track heads north from a dirt pull out along SR 260 in Prescott National Forest on a roller coaster style course that challenges hiking legs with over 1,000 feet of elevation change and delights the eyes.

Bill Williams Mountain on far right horizon

Cliff-rose bloom April - September

The sparsely shaded road wastes no time delivering outstanding vistas and a tour of the area’s diverse eco-zones.  The trailhead is bolstered by two volcanic land forms one being Thirteenmile Rock Butte (5,515 feet) a prominent basalt-topped formation that served as a waypoint on the historic 200-mile General Crook Trail built in the 1800s to connect a chain of military forts that ran from Eastern Arizona along the Mogollon Rim to the Prescott area.

Yucca bloom April - July

 

FR 9243B goes between two volcanic buttes

The other geological standout is an unnamed 5,283-foot volcanic pinnacle with a broken east flank that exposes a base of red and black cinders. Forest Road 9243B begins with a run right between the two stony massifs.

Exposed red cinders tumble from a volcanic butte

Open to off-road vehicles, hikers, bikers and equestrians, the road is a scenic destination for any type of travel, although, the many details along its course are best observed on foot.

Velvet ash trees line the road near Black Mtn Canyon

 Within the first quarter mile, the road hits a high point overlooking the Verde Valley. On clear days, the distant silhouette of Bill Williams Mountain near the City of Williams can be seen standing over green valleys and red rocks on the northwest horizon.  

Rabbit thorn blooms April - June

The route then makes the first of several dips-and-climbs passing by the exposed cider pit before rounding uphill again for another big vista moment before it begins an undulating downhill spiral. 

FR9243B traces the edge of Black Mountain Canyon

At the 0.8-mile point, the route continues straight ahead where an unmarked dirt road (FR9243C) veers to the left.  Vegetation along the first mile is of the typical high desert variety.  Yucca, junipers, rabbit thorn, cliff-rose, scrub oak, skunk bush and cacti dominate the landscape with an understory of primrose, lupines, lilies, wild carrot and other wildflowers coloring the loose cinder-strewn substrate.

Thirteenmile Rock Butte

Following a steep downhill section, the water of Parsons Tank comes into view in a juniper-ringed depression.

Verde Valley view from FR 9243B

The road swings around the tiny pool where the footprints of skunk, bobcats, deer and raccoons signal the importance of this created waterhole to wildlife. Yet another uphill section lands hikers at a gorgeous vista point above the final descent to Black Mountain Canyon.

Delicate American carrot bloom March - May

Verde Valley viewed from Parsons Tank

On the last edgy plunge, vegetation gradually changes from desert to riparian with ash trees and fruit-bearing shrubs entering the mix. 

Pursh plantain bloom February - July

The road meets the canyon bottom at the 2-mile point.  Marked by a tree-lined boulder crossing, the major drainage makes for a good turnaround point. But the hike may be extended on a maze of dirt roads shown on the Prescott National Forest map.

Strawberry hedgehog cactus bloom Mar - May

LENGTH: 4 miles round trip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 4,374 – 4,956 feet (1,077 feet of accumulated elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

From Interstate 17 in Camp Verde, take the State Route 260 exit 287 and continue 15.7 miles east (toward Payson) to Forest Road 9243B on the left just past milepost 234. Pass the gate (close it behind you) and park in the turn outs along the road.

INFO:

https://visitcampverde.com/general-crook-trail/

White Spar Loop Trails

WHITE SPAR LOOP TRAILS

Apple Blossom trail crosses Banning Creek

In the gullies and hills of the Granite Creek watershed northwest of the Goldwater Lakes, a maze of short, interconnected trails offer access to a diverse pocket of Prescott National Forest.  

Banning Creek Trail

Pine forests, riparian corridors, historic relics, and a strangely out-of-place garden of fruit trees contribute to a continual sting of eye candy in the Central Arizona hike hub.

Water pools in Banning Creek

Collectively known as the White Spar Loop Trails, the shaded singletracks may be explored by way of the White Spar Campground located just a couple of miles south of Prescott’s historic Whiskey Row.

Apple blossoms on April 21, 2023.

Well signed and maintained, the loops are a mash up of newer trails and old standards that also link up with the 50-mile, city-circumnavigating Prescott Circle Trail.  While there are dozens of ways to use the White Spar Loops to cobble together a day hike or backpack trek, a short circuit using the Goldwater Lake #396, Banning Creek #81 (the old standards), Apple Blossom #373 and Twist & Shout #372 (new kids on the block) trails is a perfect introduction to the area’s many faces.

Tall pines on Goldwater Lake Trail

From the dirt trailhead parking lot before the campground entrance, the circuit begins with a 1.5-mile walk on Goldwater Lake #396. This leg climbs easily through stands of Ponderosa pine, alligator junipers and oaks passing by the Hidden Valley trail junction.  

Old water pipeline on Banning Creek Trail

The hike hits its highest elevation (5,920 feet) at the one-mile point, where nice views of iconic Thumb Butte and Granite Mountain peek through coniferous tree cover.  The route then begins a gradual, half-mile  descent to the course of Banning Creek. 

White Spar Loops are well-signed & maintained

The Banning Creek trail #81 junction can be a little confusing. Hikers may head left (north) and follow the wide dirt road that traces the creek’s west banks or go right at the “81” sign and slingshot around to get on the east bank trail. Either way, the two options converge less than a half-mile north where the creek crosses the dirt road.

Golden currant blooms along Granite Creek

Adding notes of history to the hike, an old, elevated water pipeline—a relic of  early 20^th century water supply technology-- can be seen following the course of the creek. 

Goldwater Lake Trail is part of the Prescott Circle Trail

Vegetation along this watery leg includes classic riparian species like willows, cottonwoods, boxelder, and golden currant shrubs growing in mucky shallows and boulder-bound bends. At the 2.2-mile point, the route heads left onto Apple Blossom trail #373 among magnificent cottonwoods that stand along a trickling creek crossing.  Within a few yards, the trail comes to another junction where it veers right to meet the eponymous apple blossoms. 

Common mullein is a familiar plant along the trails

Several small, spindly fruit trees line the trail, looking sort of lost among towering pines.  In spring, creamy flowers scent the air and attract pollinators.  Beyond the blooming trees, the route continues straight ahead and uphill the somewhat befuddling  #373/#374 junction.  Now back in pine-oak woodlands, the trail passes by a forested subdivision before meeting the Twist & Shout  trail #372 junction for the loop’s final leg.  

Granite Mountain seen from Goldwater Lake Trail

True to its name, the path winds among oak canopies, making hairpin turns around ravines before rejoining Goldwater Lake trail for the return trip to the trailhead.

LENGTH:  3.7 miles

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 5,517 – 5,920 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Courthouse Square in historic downtown Prescott, go 2.8 miles south on Montezuma Street (U.S. 89/White Spar Road) and turn left into the White Spar Campground.  Trailhead parking in on the right before entering the campground. No fee or facilities.

INFO:

Prescott National Forest, Bradshaw Ranger District

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/prescott/recreation/recarea/?recid=75171

 

Amerind Trails

NEW TRAILS COMING TO DRAGOON

Newly constructed trails at the Amerind Museum

Right around the turn of the century, I took a break at the Texas Canyon rest stop during a road trip from Willcox to Phoenix, looked out over the gorge below and thought, “Cool rocks. I wonder if there are any hiking trails in there.” 

Granite formations in Texas Canyon

Turns out, that particular slice of Chihuahuan Desert along Interstate 10 an hour east of Tucson where restaurants and roadside services are sparse, was on private property with no way for curious hikers to explore the wonderland of weathered igneous stone.

Trail designer Sirena Rana in Texas Canyon

That’s about to change, though.

Cottonwoods surround a pond on the Amerind Trails

 This October, a 5.7-mile trail system is set to open in Texas Canyon on the Amerind Museum property in the community of Dragoon.

“Texas Canyon is so amazing,” says Sirena Rana founder of Trails Inspire and designer of the Amerind Trails. “ There’s so much interesting geology and a lot of people have wondered what it looks like inside.  Up until now, there were no public trails.”

Sirena Rana on the trail to whale rock

The stony parcel of Texas Canyon sits in the shadow of the Dragoon Mountains between the towns of Benson and Willcox. Nearby attractions like the Chiricahua National Monument, Cochise Stronghold, Willcox Playa Wildlife Area, Tombstone, Southern Arizona wineries and acres of Coronado National Forest are big draws for tourists and locals alike.

The tafoni rock in Texas Canyon

But Dragoon and the Amerind Museum remain comparatively under the radar.  The Amerind Museum is a sort of hybrid museum, art gallery and research facility dedicated to archeology, Indigenous cultures and Western art that’s been around since 1937.

Whale rock is a highlight of the Amerind Trails

Seeking to extend its reach, enrich visitor experience, and build interest in the area, museum officials contacted Rana after seeing her presentation on how trails can benefit communities to explore adding hiking trails to their property in Texas Canyon.

“When designing trails, the first thing I do is find the people who know about the land. Locals, neighbors, hikers and experts who know what’s special about the terrain,” Rana says.  “To me, the most important thing is to make trails accessible to all. I like a series of stacked loops that allow for a lot of options and are customizable for all levels of difficulty and lengths.”

Routing the 5.7 miles of trails through the dramatic, boulder-strewn terrain was tricky, but extensive site scoping and design research paid off.

Windmill with Dragoon Mountains on horizon

The whale trail departs from a picnic area

“We found routes by using the grasslands in between the rocks and natural granite passages while keeping close to interesting control points like cliffs, dramatic rock formations and ponds,” Rana shared. The careful planning has yielded unique pathways into some of the area’s standout geological wonders including a naturally sculpted tafoni rock and the (soon-to-be Instagram darling) whale rock.

Dragoon Mountains seen from Amerind Trails

The stone pillars, balanced rocks, slabs, grottos, spires, and fractured joints within the trail system are the result of millions of years of geological activity and weathering of quartz monzonite (aka granite) that crystalized underground.  As the land surface slowly eroded, the harder granite intrusion was exposed to the elements that would shape them into the bizarre forms seen today.

Golden corydalis color the grasslands Feb - Jun

For trail construction, Rana selected an Arizona company that specializes in building sustainable recreational trails that respect natural landscapes and cultural resources.

“For construction we used Flagline Trails, a Flagstaff-based contractor,” Rana says.  “They are incredibly talented and the crew did an amazing job. They took my design and made it as good as can be. The system has three access points, north and south loops plus an out-and-back trail to whale rock. There will be benches placed along the routes and signage and painted paw prints to mark the trails where they cross bedrock will be installed over the summer. The trails will be open for day use only .  There’s no camping at the site, but there are plenty of places to camp and stay in neighboring towns and in Coronado National Forest.”

Trail construction began on January 3, 2023 and wound up in April. 

Painted paw prints will mark the trail where it crosses bedrock

Using “Amerind Trails” as a working title, official naming of the trails is in the works. “We handed off the naming of trails, and signage placement with our recommendations to the Amerind Foundation,” Rana says. “I’m thrilled with how the trails turned out and they are sure to be a great contribution to the community.”

Interesting geology dominates the landscape

A grand opening event will be scheduled for October and if all goes as planned, the community of Dragoon is going to need a restaurant.

LENGTH: 5.7 miles

RATING: easy-moderate

ELEVATION: 4,643 - 4,873 feet

GETTING THERE:

Amerind Museum

2100 N. Amerind Rd., Dragoon, AZ.

From Interstate 10 south of Tucson, take the Dragoon Road exit 318 and follow the signs 1 mile south to the Amerind entrance on the left.  

HOURS: The museum is open Tuesday – Sunday 10 a.m. – 4 p.m.. Closed on major holidays. Trails will be open for day use only.

There’s no camping on the property, but there are nearby campgrounds and lodging.

FEE: $10 - 12

FACILITIES: picnic tables, restrooms, museum exhibits and events

INFO:

TRAILS WILL OPEN OCTOBER 7, 2023.

Amerind Museum

amerind.org

Trails Inspire LLC

trailsinspire.com

Flagline Trails LLC

flaglinetrails.com

 

Johnson Wash Road

JOHNSON WASH ROAD

Snow on Mingus Mountain viewed from FR96

Largely shade-less and hemmed in by a grey sea of prickly cat claw, Johnson Wash Road reads like a not very interesting dirt two track.

Big sky vistas are the hike's hallmark.

At first glance, it clearly lacks the “Three Ws” of hiker catnip: woodlands, water and wildflowers. But what there is plenty of is air. Big, restless eddies unobscured by trees, landforms and botanical distractions propel ravens, turkey vultures and hawks skyward to glide in loose, lazy loops. A walk on this dusty back road earns its hike-worthy credentials on big sky vistas alone. 

Isolated cottonwoods in Johnson Spring Wash

Johnson Wash Road, which is also known as Forest Road 96, is part of the Great Western Trail, a 4,455-mile route that runs from Mexico to Canada.  Purpose built for vehicles outfitted for rough conditions, long stretches of nothingness and rutted dirt far removed from the nearest service station, the road runs through Arizona, Utah, Idaho, Wyoming and Montana.

Hance Spring Road crosses Johnson Wash

 The Arizona section wanders through over 800 miles of spectacular deserts, mountains, forests, canyons, creeks, grasslands, heritage sites, defunct mining camps and historic town sites.  

Junipers, scrub oak and cat claw on FR96

Open to motorized vehicles, hiking, biking and equestrian use, the Great Western Trail is at its heart, an off-highway vehicle (OHV) destination.  Motorized users typically venture out with several spare tires, tool kit, a few days’ worth of food, fuel and water and a convoy of similarly equipped companions, lest they find themselves up the wilds without a winch.

Yucca and granite outcroppings decorate FR96

Hikers, on the other hand need only pack the essentials, park and walk. And this stark slice of Arizona is well worth a closer look on foot. Located just a few miles west of Interstate 17 in Prescott National Forest,  the hike begins at a dirt turnout along Old Cherry Creek Road. The easy-to-follow route heads west on a rocky course that unwinds in a roller coaster style that dips and rises over the scoured channels of Sour Water, Racetrack and Johnson Wash. All told, the “flat” hike accumulates over 600 feet of elevation change.

Manzanita color an otherwise muted landscape

With nothing but scrub, cat claw, cacti and spotty stands of juniper and cottonwoods, there’s nothing to obstruct the viewscape spectacle. The muted silhouettes of the Bradshaw Mountains and Pine Mountain Wilderness rise on the far horizons while nearby knolls, bluffs and granite outcroppings interrupt sprawling high desert grasslands and yawning valleys. 

FR96 is part of the Great Western Trail

Among the scrub oak and manzanita shrubs, skulking coyotes, rodents and lizards scurry under shadows cast by turkey vultures and ravens circling overhead in search of a meal. The dead quiet and open-to-the-elements flavor of this place can be either joyful or frightening--sometimes both, simultaneously.

At the 2.2-mile point, the road comes to a major intersection.  The Great Western Trail veers southeast, while Forest Road 9604S spins off to the northeast, brushing the base of 5,725-foot Onion Mountain before fading away. The junction makes for a good turnaround point, but  several other unsigned offshoots may be used to extend the hike.  One to try is Hance Spring Road, also known as Forest Road 9011D.

There's plenty of air on the Great Western Trail

The unsigned junction is on the north side of Johnson Spring Road, 0.2 mile before the FR9604S junction.  It’s a primitive road with many unmarked spurs that weave around Johnson Spring Wash as it climbs uphill about 3 miles toward Cherry Creek.

Horehound grows under juniper trees on FR96

 With a Prescott National Forest map and compass, hikers can enjoy an unscripted trek up the wilds without a worry.  

LENGTH: 4.4 miles round trip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION:  4,703 – 4,859 feet (650 feet of elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

From Interstate 17 about 8 miles south of Camp Verde, take the Dewey-Humboldt exit 278 for State Route 169. Go 5.5 miles west (left) on SR 169 to Cherry Creek Road just past milepost 10 on the right. Follow Cherry Creek Road 1.3 miles to the Great Western Trail sign at Forest Road 96 (Johnson Wash Road) on the right. Park in the dirt turnouts. Roads are paved up to the trailhead.

INFO:

https://www.azbackroads.com/gps-track/the-great-western-trail-arizona-route/

https://www.gwt.org/