What goes around, comes around on Lake Mountain

LAKE MOUNTAIN LOOP

Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Lake Mountain lookout, built in 1926

If you’ve been reading this blog for any time at all, you’ve probably figured out that I have a penchant for hiking up volcanoes.  So, when I read about Lake Mountain--an extinct cinder cone with a water-filled crater near its summit—game on.  A little research showed that both a road and a good hiking trail lead to the summit. Using White Mountain Trail System (WMTS) online maps, we planned a loop hike using Los Burros Trail #631, Lake Mountain Spur and the lookout road.  As the system trails are very well signed, this plan was working well 

The "lake" is the volcano's crater--dry on June 16, 2012

Lake Mountain spur trail

Which way??

until we encountered our final junction where there were just waaaay too many signs.  A wooden forest service sign pointed right while of slew of WMTS blue diamond markers were tacked all over the place creating a confusing and seemingly contradictory conundrum.  As we puzzled over our maps, two friendly bikers---Keith and Bob---stopped to help.  We pointed out the Los Burros trailhead sign that had arrows pointing in opposite directions, and they suggested we head left as the WMTS signs indicated.  Sounded like as good a plan as any, and besides, I could always deploy my “return the way we came” tactic if we got off track.  We headed left but soon found that the abundant blue diamond trail markers suddenly disappeared, so we made the decision to turn around and hike back to a dirt road where we knew there was a trail sign. Then, two seconds before I was about to implement the backtrack, we heard a truck rumbling down the road---- Keith and Bob.  Having realized they had suggested the loooooong way back and that we’d probably be confused by the missing signage, they aborted their ride, tossed their bikes in their truck and came back to find us!  Talk about good guys!  WOW!  They even gave us a lift back to the trailhead.  This is just another example of how profoundly nice trail users can be.  I can’t tell you how many times my hiking pals and I have shared water, food, maps, rain gear, jumper cables and even helped haul fatigued hikers off the trails.  Truly, what goes around comes around. 

Hiking pal Julie poses with Bob and Keith--Thanks, guys!

Hike directions:

From the Los Burros #2 trailhead, cross the road and pick up Los Burros trail #631 heading north. Follow the blue diamond trail markers 0.5 mile to the lookout road (unsigned).  Turn left (west) here and hike 0.5 mile up the road to the lookout.  Here, there’s a wood sign that serves as the trailhead for both the Lake Mountain Spur trail and the 1-mile Lake Mountain Rim Trail loop. Do the loop, return to the trailhead, then head down the 0.25-mile spur trail to visit the “lake” and reconnect with Los Burros trail. At the bottom of the spur trail, continue right and hike 0.75-mile to a 3-way junction with a sign that reads “Los Burros trailhead 3”, go right here and hike 2 miles back to trailhead #2.

LENGTH: 5-mile loop

RATING: moderate—route/map reading skills required

ELEVATION:  7,800’- 8501’

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 207 miles one way

BEST SEASON: April - October

GETTING THERE:

From Pinetop-Lakeside, travel east on AZ260 to Vernon Road in McNary between mileposts 360-361. FYI: this road is also known as FR224, AP3140, Vernon-McNary Road, and N. Cady.  For reference, it’s located across from the McNary store and has a small green sign that reads “Vernon”.  Turn left (north) and continue 7.9 miles to Los Burros trailhead #2 (located at the 8 mile marker) on the right. The road turns into maintained dirt after 0.4 mile, passes thru the White Mountain Apache reservation, then enters the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest at the 5-mile point. 

INFO: White Mountains Trail System

http://www.tracks-pinetop-lakeside.org/trails/TrailsFiles/LosBurrosTrail.htm

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The back way up Mount Elden

MOUNT ELDEN via UPPER OLDHAM TRAIL

Flagstaff

Heading out on the "catwalk"

Final approach to Mount Elden

There's more than one way to tackle Mount Elden.  The most popular route begins off US89 in east Flagstaff and climbs 2300 feet in a short, steep 3 miles.  This way is great for a thigh-burning workout, but also earns a pox upon its ambience due to its proximity to two major highways and views dominated by industrial complexes.  However, the west side of the mountain holds an alternative route that's less steep, better shaded and cloistered in woodland vistas stretching all the way to Williams. Except for the occasional car on adjacent FR557, there's nary a hint of civilization on the west route until it crests on the Sunset trail.  Here, the hike lands on a scenic saddle overlooking the railways and warehouses of east Flagstaff, then heads south up to Mount Elden.  This short path is a beautiful trek sandwiched between pine-fir forests on the right and steep drop offs on the left.  Soon after passing through a dense stand of young aspens, the trail leaves the woods to  teeter on a barren, knife-edge ridgeline scarred by the 1977 Radio Fire.  Depending on your point of view, this open-to-the-sky, catwalk-like segment is either profoundly gorgeous or viscerally depressing. Fire damage notwithstanding, the terrain is very interesting---massive lava boulders, juvenile aspens and blooming shrubs lend an air of resurgence to the otherwise bald tread.    Charred snags bleached grey by years of harsh weather coat the slopes like toppled matchsticks and a few remaining upright torched trunks stand sentry above a volcano-studded landscape.  Sunset Crater, Strawberry Crater, O'Leary Peak and the Bonito Lava flow are all visible from the exposed path that feels as if the patches of clumpy grasses and wild roses growing on its margins serve as the glue that keeps it from slumping into oblivion.  Also, the damage done by the June 2010 Schultz Fire is visible to the north.  After passing the wildfire vistas, the catwalk meets FR577 for the final slog to the microwave-and-cellular-tower-cluttered summit with a fire lookout and 360-degree views.

HIKE DIRECTIONS FOR WEST APPROACH AS DESCRIBED HERE:

From the Lower Oldham-Rocky Ridge trailhead, hike 0.2 mile north to the turn off for the Brookbank trail.  Veer right here on an unsigned path and hike 0.5 mile to the Upper Oldham trail junction.  Follow Upper Oldham 1.5 miles, cross FR557, and pick up Sunset trail.  At the sign for Sunset-Schultz Tank-Elden, go right and hike 1 mile to the summit of Elden Mountain.

View from Upper Oldham Trail

LENGTH: 6.4 miles roundtrip

ELEVATION: 7,380'- 9,300'

RATING: moderate

BEST SEASON: April - October

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 147 miles one way

GETTING THERE:

West approach trailhead:

From Flagstaff, travel north on US180 to Shultz Pass Road (FR420) at milepost 218.6.

Turn right and go 0.5 mile, veer right onto Elden Lookout Road (FR557) and continue roughly 2.5 miles to the signed Lower Oldham-Rocky Ridge trailhead on the right. FR557 is maintained dirt, passable by sedan. NOTE: to shorten the hike, drive another mile up FR557 to the Upper Oldham trailhead where there's parking on the left across the road from the trail sign.

East approach trailhead:

From Flagstaff, travel east on US89 to just past the Flagstaff Mall at milepost 419.5. Turn at the Mt. Elden Trailhead sign.

INFO: Flagstaff Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, 928-526-0866

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Hiking Arizona's "everglades"

CARNERO LAKE

Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Carnero Lake, June 2, 2012

Even to the casual observer, it's clear that Arizona boasts  a plethora of environmental diversity.  Over the years, I've hiked through deserts, chaparral, prairies, alpine meadows, volcanic highlands, river canyons, wildly contorted mountain peaks, coniferous forests and even tundra.  Now,  "everglades" joins the list.  What? Huh? In Arizona?  Yuppers--Carnero Lake is a swamp.  Located off AZ260 between Pinetop-Lakeside and Greer, this shallow, 65-acre lake is prone to summertime weed growth.  This green quagmire may frustrate anglers hoping to nab the stocked rainbow trout, but for camera-toting hikers, it's a beautiful destination with lots of opportunities to view wildlife.  A slim footpath-- with many spurs leading to the water --circles the spruce-and-aspen fringed lake.  Thick woodlands on the south side of the lake provide good cover for photo stalking.  Waterfowl are easy to spot among the reeds and on my visit, a huge Ferruginous hawk put on an acrobatic air show above the water.  Antelope, elk, black bear, squirrels and lizards also inhabit the area.  We did this hike as a double-header with the Greens Peak trail (see separate blog entry) for a pleasant afternoon of off-the-radar trekking.

LENGTH: 1.63-mile loop

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 9035'

BEST SEASON: May - October

KID FRIENDLY: yes

GETTING THERE:

From Show Low, travel east on AZ260 to FR 117 near milepost 380.  Turn left (north) and continue 2.5 miles on FR117 to FR117A, turn right and continue 0.5 mile to the signed turnoff for the lake. The access road is rough, but still passable by sedan.

INFO:

http://www.azgfd.gov/h_f/documents/CarneroLakeGeneralDescriptionFoyer.pdf

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National Trails Day: June 2, 2012

Sign up to participate in one of the many National Trails Day events scheduled for this Saturday, June 2, 2012.
There are hikes, maintenance projects and ranger-led educational opportunities being offered statewide.  Check out this link to find an Arizona event near you:


http://www.americanhiking.org/NTDSearchResult.aspx?sId=3

Kaibab National Forest seeks volunteers for trail work

JUNE 16-17: ARIZONA TRAIL MAINTENANCE VOLUNTEERS NEEDED

Kaibab National Forest

FROM: Jacqueline Banks, Public Affairs Officer, Kaibab National Forest

TUSAYAN, Ariz. – The Kaibab National Forest and the Arizona Trail Association are seeking volunteers to assist with maintenance of the Arizona National Scenic Trail on the Tusayan Ranger District June 16 and 17.

Volunteers will conduct trail maintenance on the Coconino Rim section of the trail between Russell Tank and Grandview Lookout.  Work will include clearing fallen trees, trimming tree limbs, cleaning water drainage features, and removing rock, pines needles and other debris from the trail.

Any person interested in volunteering is welcome.  Those under age 18 should be accompanied by an adult.  Trail work will take place all day June 16 and until noon on June 17.  Volunteers are invited to camp on the Tusayan Ranger District at the junction of forest roads 310 and 302 on the nights of June 15 and 16, if they so choose.

The Kaibab National Forest and Arizona Trail Association will provide tools and hard hats.  A large water tank will be available at the campsite.  Volunteers should bring food, snacks, day pack, and appropriate clothing.  Leather boots are encouraged, but closed-toe shoes are required.  Pants and long-sleeved shirts are recommended.

The Arizona National Scenic Trail is a continuous, 800+ mile diverse and scenic trail across Arizona from Mexico to Utah.  The Arizona Trail Association’s mission is to build, maintain, promote, protect and sustain the trail as a unique encounter with the land. 

Individuals interested in volunteering should contact Joe Welke, Tusayan Ranger District, at (928) 635-8219, or Tom Coulson, Arizona Trail Association, at (480) 326-0459.

Hiking among aspens on the Arizona Trail

Bismarck Lake to Geyler Tank

Arizona Trail Passage #34

Bismarck Lake May 26, 2012

Although it's fun to hike previously untried trails, there are a few that have commandeered my soul---keeping me coming back again and again.  Bismarck Lake is one of those trails. A breathtaking, thin air trek beneath the San Francisco Peaks, the trail cuts through damp forests of Limber pines, aspens and Douglas firs with intermittent meadows splattered in manic wildflower colors.  Just before encountering the lake, the trail emerges abruptly from the woodlands onto an expansive prairie with views of the peaks soaring 3000 feet into the clouds.  Here, mountain-borne breezes muddled with crisp, coniferous perfumes rage over knee-high grasses prompting countless hat-holding photo moments.  I could stand here for hours, soaking up what is--for me--a perfect place.  Within a few yards after entering the prairie, a sign points to a short spur path leading to the lake. As with most volcanic lakes---Bismarck is an eroded cinder cone crater---this one vacillates from a medium-size pond to muddy puddle, and yesterday, it was virtually non-existent.  Still, the side trip pays off with patches of water-loving blooms and animal footprints including elk, deer, raccoons and bear.  To extend the hike, head back to the sign and continue 0.2 mile east to the Arizona Trail junction.  On past trips, we've headed right (south) and hiked through an aspen wonderland to Snowbowl Road, so this time, we headed left with the objective of hiking out-and-back to Geyler Tank. We did this on May 26, 2012, an unseasonably cool, very windy day.  Temperatures for the day were 37-50 degrees with 40 mph wind gusts---heaven!

Here’s what we did:

From the trailhead, hike 1 mile to Bismarck Lake junction.  A short spur trail heads to the water, but we skipped the trip because there was no water in the lake.  From the lake, follow the trail east another 0.2 mile to the AZT junction.  Turn left (north) and continue 4 miles to FR418, cross the road and hike less than a mile to a large meadow west (left) of the trail at the base of an old volcano (Walker Lake is inside). Geyler Tank is located 0.2 miles west of the trail.

LENGTH: 12.2 miles roundtrip

RATING:  easy

ELEVATION: 8,500' - 8900'

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go north on I17 to Flagstaff.  Connect with US180 and travel 10.2 miles north to milepost 225 and turn right onto Hart Prairie Road (FR151).  Follow FR 151 6.4 miles (passing by the Nature Conservancy) to FR 627.  Turn right and continue 0.6 mile to the trailhead. FR 151 and FR 627 are dirt and usually passable by sedan.
INFO: http://www.aztrail.org/passages/pass_34.html

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Gladiator Fire video tour

Here's an excellent video that details the progression of the Gladiator Fire near Crown King:

http://www.crownkingaz.com/archives/crown-king-gladiator-fire-day-9-update-2/

NEWS UPDATES, MAPS & PHOTOS:
http://www.prescottenews.com/news/current-news/item/19984-gladiator-fire-wednesday-26-containment-plus-maps-photos#axzz1vtiV5XM0

One trail--many loops

LOWER OLDHAM-ROCKY RIDGE-EASY OLDHAM LOOP

Coconino National Forest

Loop trails are the big thing in Flagstaff’s Elden Mountain-Dry Lakes Hills area.  Every trail connects with another making for myriad hiking options, especially on the west side which was spared from the 2010 Shultz Fire.  Oldham trail #1 is an easy-to-access route leading to some of the most scenic and heavily traveled loops—most notably, the Brookbank and Sunset trails.  Pine, fir and oak trees shade much of the area and several experimental forests and aspen regeneration projects add interest for kids and forest-loving adults alike.  With so many choices, selecting an Elden-area loop hike is a tough decision but, this day, we decided to connect with the Lower Oldham, Rocky Ridge and Easy Oldham trails.

Rocky Ridge Trail

Here’s what we did:  Begin at Buffalo Park and hike 0.5 mile straight thru to the Lower Oldham trailhead—which is also a portion of the Arizona Trail (AZT).  Hike 0.4 mile to the first junction, veer right (northeast) and hike another 0.4 mile to the second junction at Pipeline/Fatmans trail.  Continue hiking northeast (follow the AZT signs) for another mile to the third junction where a sign for Rocky Ridge Access indicates that the AZT turns west (left) here.  This will be the return part of the loop, so continue 0.8 mile north (stay straight) to the big Lower Oldham trailhead on FR557 (Elden Summit Road).  From here, cross the road, pick up Rocky Ridge trail and follow it 0.8 mile to the turnoff for Rocky Ridge Access/AZT---this will be a 3-way junction.  Your path is located slightly downhill near a giant boulder.  Heading east, hike 0.3 mile back to Lower Oldham, turn right (south) and retrace your steps back to Buffalo Park.

Mount Elden seen from Lower Oldham trail

LENGTH: 7.1-mile loop

RATING: easy-moderate

ELEVATION:  7110’ – 7580’

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 146 miles one way

DOGS: dogs must be on leash in Buffalo Park

KID FRIENDLY?: yes

BEST SEASON: late April - November

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, travel north on Fort Valley Road (US180) to Forest Ave.  Turn left and continue to the stop light at Gemini Drive.  Turn left and follow the signs to the park.

INFO & MAP: Flagstaff Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, 928-526-0866

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=55138&actid=50

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Bill Williams Mountain Watershed closed to entry

Hi Hikers, fire season continues to take its toll on Arizona  summer hiking destinations.

Due to extreme fire danger, Kaibab National  Forest has decided to CLOSE TO ENTRY the sensitive watershed area around Bill Williams Mountain south of Williams as of May 21, 2012. This means no access to Bill Williams Mountain Trail, Benham Trail, Bixler Saddle and other surrounding routes.The closure is bounded by Perkinsville Road (CR73) on the east, south to FR122, west to FR108 and north to I40.  Once the area has received sufficient rainfall, the forest service will consider re-opening access. CALL THE WILLIAMS RANGER DISTRICT BEFORE HEADING OUT TO HIKE. 928-635-5600
http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=11653&actid=50
MAP:
http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5317872.pdf

Gladiator Fire closes parts of Prescott National Forest

Hikers,

You should re-think any plans to hike  Groom Creek, Wolf Creek, Poland Creek and Mt Union in the Bradshaw Ranger District.  That's because the Gladiator Fire burning near Crown King is still raging and smoke is very heavy. Review  the closure notice below and steer clear of the area!

View of the Bradshaw range from Spruce Mtn lookout

(From the National Forest Service press release:) An expanded Closure Order is in effect, as of May 20, 2012 at 6 p.m., for all Prescott National Forest, Bradshaw Ranger District land south of the following: Beginning at the southwest corner, Township 12 North, Range 3 West, Section 33; south of River Pasture, along Forest Road 72 west to FS Road 667, following Middlewater Creek to the south of Maverick Mountain, east to Forest Road 9403C and onto Forest Road 52B connecting to the Senator Highway (County Road 56). Senator Highway east continuing to FS Road 261 east of Mount Union Lookout towards County Road 58 through Breezy Pines, extending to Poland Junction. All roads leading into the community of Crown King are closed. Cleator – Crown King Road (County Road 59) is closed at Cleator. Senator Highway to Crown King (County Road 52) is closed at the junction with Poland Rd. (County Road 58). Mayer-Bolada Road (County Road 177) is closed at the Forest Boundary. Forest Road 711 is closed south of the Forest boundary at Cow Creek Forest Road 362 is closed south of the Forest boundary at Wagner. Forest Road 192 is closed. A Yavapai County fire ban is in effect across all fire ban zones. Prescott National Forest Campfire and Smoking Restrictions are also in effect. For AZ Fire Info & Restrictions Information call 1-877-864-6985 or visit http://wildlandfire.az.gov.

Sunflower and Gladiator Fires visible from space

Gladiator Fire as seen from  I17, May 19, 2012

If you can see them from space, they must be big.
Groan.  I'm having flashbacks from last year's Wallow Fire.   Check out the NASA site below:
http://earthobservatory.nasa.gov/NaturalHazards/view.php?id=77944

Barrier-free hiking on Flagstaff's McMillan Mesa

McMILLAN MESA

Flagstaff Urban Trails System/Arizona Trail

I've decided to call this one a sandwich hike. Like the great American lunch staple, the good stuff of this trek happens in the middle while the scenic equivalent of white bread bolsters the fringes.   The hike takes off near the main entrance of Buffalo Park, swinging south onto a route that's now part of the most urban passage of the Arizona Trail where there's a large sign with a tribute to Flagstaff educator and trail founder, Dale Shewalter.  Within a few yards, the trail crosses over Cedar Avenue on Matt Kelly bridge--which is named for a young bike rider who was killed by a drunk driver.

Past the bridge there's some serious ugly---a power plant and quarry. Still, this is billed as an urban trail, so I guess I don't have a complaint coming. Farther along, the wide, gravel route crosses McMillan Mesa-- the good stuff-- a grassy ridge sandwiched between downtown and the upper eastside of Flagstaff.  Sparsely populated with junipers, pines and firs, the view to the southeast is surprisingly lovely.  To the northeast, the busy city sprawls and carries on below. The trail is suitable for strollers, wheelchairs and walkers, making this a popular choice for multi-generational families.  Also, benches are placed at scenic spots along the way, including one that's perfect for train-spotting the BNST railroad that parallels Route 66. 

LENGTH:  1.5 miles one-way

RATING: easy, stroller-friendly, barrier-free

ELEVATION: 7,040'

DOGS: leashed dogs allowed

KID FRIENDLY?: yes

GETTING THERE:

Buffalo Park (North):

From Flagstaff, travel north on Fort Valley Road (US180) to Forest Ave.  Turn right and continue to the stop light at Gemini Drive.  Turn left and follow the signs to the park.

Hemlock Way (south):

From Flagstaff, travel east on Route 66 to Switzer Canyon Road.  Turn north (left) and go 0.6 mile to Turquoise Drive, turn right, go 0.3 mile to Ponderosa Pkwy, turn right and go 0.5 mile to Locust, turn left and go 0.1 mile to Apple, turn right and go 0.1 mile to Hemlock, turn left and continue 0.1 mile to the trailhead.

INFO: City of Flagstaff

http://flagstaff.az.gov/index.aspx?NID=1812

Arizona Trail Association

http://www.aztrail.org/passages/pass_33.html

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Sound off on how AZ recreation dollars should be spent

Help improve Arizona's outdoor recreation by participating in the Statewide Comprehensive Outdoor Recreation Plan (SCORP) Survey. 

 The survey seeks to learn about the preferences and needs of people--like hikers--who recreate on Arizona's public lands. Results will be used by outdoor recreation managers on policy and funding matters. 

It takes about 25 minutes to complete.

Take the survey at http://surveymonkey.com/s/SCORPpub
(Note: The survey closes May 31, 2012) 

For more information on SCORP and the planning process, visit http://azstateparks.com/publications/#SCORP2012. 

InciWeb--your source for wildfire updates

Mazatzal Mountains south of Payson

We all knew this was coming---wildfire season.  With 5 blazes already in progress on our public lands, my head is spinning.  Some of these fires will actually do some good for forest health, others, not so much.
Right now it appears that the Sunflower Fire is the one closest to a major hiking trail---the Saddle Mountain and Mazatzal Divide passages of the Arizona Trail.  It's burning west of AZ 87 north of Mount Ord and south of Mazatzal Peak.  If you hiked in there, you know how remote it is---and, back in 2005, the Cave Creek Complex Fire also torched parts of this same area. Moving forward---its always a good idea to check for wildfire activity before heading out on a summer hike.  InciWeb is an excellent resource with maps and is updated frequently.
Here's the link to the Sunflower Fire:  http://www.inciweb.org/incident/2861/
Here's the link for ALL current AZ fires:
http://www.inciweb.org/state/3/

Legions of lizards on Ledges Trail #138

LEDGES TRAIL

Mormon Lake near Flagstaff

Short in length but long on scenic beauty, this easy trek climbs to a stone outcropping overlooking Mormon Lake. For fans of wildlife viewing, the "ledges" are a terrific platform for spotting elk, waterfowl, raptors and other large game.  In addition, legions of leapin' lizards, loquacious loggerhead shrikes, screeching Stellar's jays and butterflies a plenty keep things interesting along the trail.

The hike begins at site #25 in Dairy Springs campground, ascending gently but with loose rock underfoot.  Alligator juniper-framed first views of the lake emerge near the 0.3-mile point where the route levels out amid lava-boulder-strewn fields of wildflowers.  This environment is prime lizard habitat---they are everywhere. At one point, so many of the little creatures were darting across the path, I though I had interrupted some sort of reptile fly catching convention or something. Lucky for me, lizards can be excellent photo models--they freeze when cornered.  The path meets the "ledges" at the 0.6-mile point.  Here, lake vistas are breathtaking.  I saw a wandering herd of elk waaaay in the distance and chided myself for not bringing binoculars.  From the ledges, the trail heads left and downhill along a quagmire of footpaths passing several private homes.  Just pick a path---they all lead to Mormon Lake Road where you can return the way you came or hang a right and walk back to the parking lot.

LENGTH: 1.5 miles one-way

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 7,237' - 7,400'

DOGS: leashed dogs allowed

KID FRIENDLY?: yes

BEST SEASON: April-November

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 167 miles

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, take I17 north to exit 339 for Lake Mary Road (FR3) located south of the I40 interchange just before entering Flagstaff.  Follow Lake Mary Road south (right) 20.6 miles to Mormon Lake Road (milepost 323.6), turn right and drive 3.7 miles to the turn off for Dairy Spring campground.  Turn right again and go roughly 0.2 mile to the "trailhead parking" on the right or continue another bumpy/rocky 0.1mile to the Mormon Mountain trailhead.  Trailhead parking areas are free, but if you park in the campground, you'll be subject to fees.  Hike begins in the campground near site 25.

INFO: Flagstaff Ranger District, Coconino National Forest

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=55008&actid=50

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Six stock tanks and a herd of elk near Happy Jack

SHUFFS TANK

Happy Jack, AZ

Where there’s water, there’s wildlife and because of its numerous stock tanks, natural pools and soggy drainages, animals tend to congregate on the Happy Jack passage of the Arizona Trail.  Running 31.2 miles from AZ87 near the Blue Ridge ranger station to Lake Mary Road near Allan Lake, this mild section of trail is a beautiful mix of pine-oak forests and wide-open meadows.  Hoping to spot roaming elk and deer, we made an easy “stock tank” themed out-and-back day hike on the northern part of this passage.  Beginning at the Gooseberry Spring trailhead (head southeast--right when facing the sign), the trail passes by six watering holes.  All but two will likely vaporize by summer, but the two big ones should survive the season.  The first water appears to the left of the trail in under a mile of hiking and is little more than a natural shallow bog cluttered with water buttercups.  Tank number two is a bulldozed depression dug out where the trail briefly follows a dirt road.  Third water shows up as a tiny grass-choked pond shortly before the trail encounters Maxie Tank---one of the big ones.  Less than a mile farther, we met a local woman sitting near a deer blind on the far side of tank number four.  She is an avid wildlife watcher and says that the best time to spot animals at the tanks is between 7 a.m and 9 a.m. As it was nearly 10 a.m. when we arrived at tank four, we wrote off seeing any elk on this trip.  At the 4-mile point is Shuffs Tank.  Ringed by fragrant Ponderosa pines, wet meadows full of wildflowers, and hundreds of animal footprints, this was by far the biggest of the six tanks on our hike.  Here, thousands of Rocky Mountain irises are popping through the mucky swamplands south of the tank---they should start blooming in next few weeks. We decided to take a lunch break on the northwest shore, still hoping to spot animals.  Up until then, our only sightings had been the back end of a coyote, a mountain bluebird and thousands of gopher burrows. (Do butterflies and ants count?) Then, on the way back, about 2 miles from the trailhead, we hit pay dirt---a herd of 5 elk roughly 100 yards ahead of us.  By some miracle, Shortie the hiking dog had not spotted them and his handler was able to leash him while I camera stalked.  Click on the “more photos” link below to see the beasts (and Shortie) in action.

First water hole

LENGTH: 8 miles out-and-back

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 7,500’- 7,555’

KID FRIENDLY: yes, excellent choice

DOGS: water, wildlife--chasing!

GETTING THERE:

Gooseberry Spring trailhead:

From Phoenix, travel north on I17 to Camp Verde.  Connect to SR260 east (Payson) and go 33.6 miles to SR87 (Beeline Hwy).  Turn north (left) and drive 10 miles to Lake Mary Road (FR3) which is just past Clint’s Well.  Turn northwest (left) and follow Lake Mary Road 21.1 miles to FR 935 (signed Gooseberry Spring), turn right and drive 0.2 mile to the signed AZT trailhead.  Paved up to the last 0.2 mile. Passenger cars okay.   For alternative directions, see "Four Gates" hike below.

INFO: Arizona Trail Association

http://www.aztrail.org/passages/pass_29.html

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GOOSEBERRY SPRINGS TRAILHEAD

Arizona Trail Passage #30 
Coconino National Forest

First gate

Four gates plus 15 minutes = 10 miles.  That’s the crazy equation we developed for a pleasant, easy hike near Allan Lake.

Second gate

Third gate

We did this by following part of passage #30 of the Arizona Trail (AZT) with a GPS to measure our mileage and we determined that all one really needs to do to gauge a 10-mile out-and-back hike is count gates. Here’s the plan.  From the trailhead, begin hiking northwest (go left from the sign crossing the road) through a meadow following the AZT sign posts.  You’ll come to GATE #1 at the 0.5-mile point. Pass the gate, hike a few yards and cross Lake Mary Road (FR 3) where GATE #2 greets you at 0.51 mile on the west side of the road.  From here, the trail parallels FR 3 for a short distance before meeting GATE #3. Here, the signage is a bit confusing. The AZT sign points away from the gate, as if instructing you to go left. However, the correct route goes through the gate, (not around as the sign seems to indicate), and you’ll encounter another AZT sign near a dirt road. Cross the dirt road, hang a right after a few feet and follow the old railroad bed heading north.  This section passes the marshy headwaters of Allan Lake. You won’t see any AZT signs for a while, but they will appear again at critical junctions, so stay alert.  Once we passed GATE #4, we hiked for another 15 minutes or so to make an even 5 miles. As with all gates on forest lands--close them behind you --unless signage instructs otherwise.

LENGTH: 10 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy

ELEVATION:  7,450 - 7,500 feet

THE RULES: non-motorized use only

DOGS: leashed dogs okay

KIDS:  good choice

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 130 miles one-way

GETTING THERE:

ALLAN LAKE (a.k.a. Gooseberry Springs) TRAILHEAD:

From Phoenix, go 75 miles north on AZ87 (Beeline Highway) to Payson.  At the intersection of AZ87/260, continue north on AZ87 to Clint’s Well and turn left onto Lake Mary Road (FR 3).  Continue 21.1 miles on FR 3 to milepost 312.2, turn right (east) onto a gated dirt road for Gooseberry Spring (FR 935) and drive 100 yards to the signed parking area on the right.  Hike begins across the road--head northwest toward the campground following the AZT signs. For alternative directions, see Shuffs Tank. 

INFO: Arizona Trail
http://www.aztrail.org/passages/pass_30.html

Hiking Flagstaff's plateau lakes

HORSE LAKE

Mormon Lake Arizona Trail Passage 30

Elk skeleton in Horse Lake: April 28, 2012

Pinion pines and junipers on Anderson Mesa

Triple digit heat has arrived in the Valley and with it comes the annual hiking exodus to higher elevations.  From October through April, we desert dwellers tend to frequent hiking trails in an elevation range of 1,000-4,000 feet.  Come May--we migrate.  I don't know about you, but my first few high elevation (7,000'+) hikes of the year leave me more breathless and more tired than expected.  That's why I like to do a couple of easy ones first.  The mostly flat "plateau lakes" section of the Arizona Trail-- commonly known as “Horse Lake”--fits this objective perfectly.  Part of 33.9-mile passage #30 of the Arizona Trail (AZT), this easy-to-access route wanders past three ponds (Vail, Prime and Horse) on the pine-pinion-juniper shaded meadows of Anderson Mesa northeast of Mormon Lake. These fugitive "lakes" vacillate between hip-deep pools and soggy swales in sync with rainfall.  Regardless of water levels, the mesa manages to stay moist enough to support plenty of flora and fauna.  In late April, the meadows begin blooming and yesterday, we found lots of Woodhouse phlox, stem-less daisies and yellow spiny daisies. Most hikers prefer to do this as key-exchange trek, parking vehicles at both the Marshall Lake and Horse Lake trailheads meeting in the middle for a 10.5-mile one-way hike.  For our one-car day trip, we began at Horse Lake trailhead, hiked out to Horse Lake and then doubled back.  Easy. 

Hazy view of Flagstaff's  San Francisco Peaks

LENGTH: 7.6 miles roundtrip (as described here)

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 7,090' - 7,142'

DOGS: leashed dogs allowed

BEST SEASON: Mid-April thru October

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 160 miles one way

GETTING THERE:

Horse Lake (south) trailhead:

From Phoenix, travel north on I-17 to exit 339 for Lake Mary Road located south of the I-40 junction

just before entering Flagstaff. Turn right and continue to the bottom of the off ramp where there's a Circle store.  Turn right again and go 16.3 miles south on Lake Mary Road (FR3) to milepost 327 and turn left on FR82E (Ashurst Lake/Pine Grove).  The Horse Lake trailhead is 0.7 mile ahead on the left.

Marshall Lake (north) trailhead:

From Phoenix, travel north on I-17 to exit 339 for Lake Mary Road located south of the I-40 junction

just before entering Flagstaff. Turn right and continue to the bottom of the off ramp where there's a CircleK store.  Turn right again and go 10.5 miles to FR 128 on the left (signs say observatory--it's easy to miss).  Follow curvy FR 128 2 miles to the big Marshall Lake sign/fence, turn left and continue less than a mile to the signed AZT parking area.

INFO:

Arizona Trail Association:

http://www.aztrail.org/passages/pass_30.html

Coconino National Forest, Flagstaff Ranger District: 928-526-0866

Hike with bikes on Prescott's Circle Trail

COLD SPRINGS-POTTS CREEK-TRAIL 9401J

Prescott

April 21, 2012

Hikers beware, this Friday April 27 -Sunday April 29, 2012 is the weekend of Prescott's famous Whiskey Off-Road Bike Race.  This year, 1,750 mountain bikers have registered and as the route follows busy downtown streets and popular hiking trails alike, you may want to steer clear of the area if you prefer hiking with less traffic.  We hiked a section of the course this past weekend and encountered dozens of athletes practicing for the race.  These trails are part of the City of Prescott’s Circle trail system—a collection of national forest, county and local trails, strung together in a 50-mile loop. From the Aspen Creek trailhead, we began hiking on Cold Springs #393 which starts out with an immediate uphill haul, then flattens out, wandering through  forests of Ponderosa pines with many sunny clearings.  Soon, views of Prescott's Thumb Butte area pop out over the trees.  Cold Spring--a damp rocky depression---appears on the left just before the trail ends at the Potts Creek #327 trail.  Trail 327 has lots of ups-and-downs, staying close to the stream at first, but soon dives into the woodlands through shady canyons, sun-washed meadows and a short burnt section.  A three-way junction for 327-391-9401J presents many options.  Continue on 327 to access myriad trails near Thumb Butte or (as we did) take trail 9401J (unsigned, but it's the trail on the left denoted by a path of logs) for a moderately strenuous, mostly exposed uphill haul to Sierra Prieta Overlook

LENGTH:  11.3 miles out-and-back

Cold Springs #393:  1.6 miles one-way

Potts Creek #327: 2 miles one-way

Trail #9401J: 2.3 miles one way

RATING: easy-moderate

ELEVATION: 6,200’- 6,940'

GETTING THERE:

Aspen Trail trailhead:

From the AZ69/89 junction in Prescott continue 1.25 miles west on 69 (becomes Gurley St) to Montezuma St. Turn left (south) on Montezuma (turns into AZ89/White Spar Road) and go 1 mile to the light at Copper Basin Road.  Turn right and go 4.6 miles on Copper Basin (turns to good dirt after 1.6 miles) to the trailhead on the right---signed Aspen Creek Trailhead. 

MAP: http://www.cityofprescott.net/_d/2011recmap_web.pdf

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/prescott/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=67311&actid=50

BIKE RACE INFO:

http://www.epicrides.com/index.php?contentCat=6&contentId=61

http://www.cityofprescott.net/events/index.php?year=2012&month=4&id=5657

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Hike an underrated Flagstaff volcano

SADDLE MOUNTAIN

Flagstaff

Snow at 8,500', April 20, 2012

Trails like this one "don't get no respect". In the grand promised land of Flagstaff-area hiking, it's easy to understand why a perfectly decent destination like Saddle Mountain would get lost in the fuss of more showy trails . Visible from US 180 just north of the Kendrick wildlife viewing area, the extinct cinder cone volcano rises 700 feet above woodlands recovering from the 2000 Pumpkin and 1996 Hochderffer fires.  In fact, several hiking books and online sources focus soooo much on the wildfires when describing this trail that they fail to fully respect its headliner attraction: fabulous views. Therefore, its B-list status persists. Certainly, unfortunate proximity to much more impressive mountain hikes (Kendrick Peak, Humphreys Peak) doesn’t help visitation either.  Get over it---I’m going out on a limb to highly recommend this trail. The hike itself is a moderate trudge on a service road that twists up the hill candy-cane-style, revealing sweeping, 360-degree landscape vistas that stretch all the way to the Grand Canyon and Painted Desert.  To the north, geological landmarks Red Mountain and Red Butte stand out on the flat plains of the Colorado Plateau while massive San Francisco Mountain commands the southern flank. On the summit, a visual spectacle of eroding cinder cones can be seen in northern Arizona’s volcanic field while communication transmitters hum in sync with alpine breezes. 

Volcanic field as seen from the summit

LENGTH:  5.8 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 8,100' - 8,800'

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, go 21 miles north on US 180 to FR 514 located at milepost 236.5 (at the now defunct White Buffalo place).  SET YOUR ODOMETER---trust me. Turn right and travel 2.5 miles east on FR 514 (stay straight, ignore all side roads) to FR 550, turn left (north) and drive 1.9 miles to where there’s a small loop turnaround road on the left. This is FR 550A, but it’s not signed.  The road climbing the mountain on the left is the trail.  Park anywhere along the road, or, there’s also a small (one car) dirt turn out roughly 0.2 mile up FR550A if you want to shorten the hike.

INFO:

Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866

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Urban wetlands hiking

GILBERT RIPARIAN PRESERVE at WATER RANCH

The sound of waterfowl is deafening.  Even with its proximity to US60 and a busy community center, a hike in this wetland complex of 7 ponds and a fishing lake mimics a stroll in a wilderness marsh.  These created groundwater recharge basins are surrounded by massive, green riparian vegetation attracting thousands of shorebirds, making for a cool, shady hike, even in warm weather.  Great blue herons, Snowy egrets, Long-billed dowitchers, mallards, grebes, killdeer, warblers and hummingbirds are extremely easy to spot.  Short loop trails with interpretive signs weave among flower gardens, mesquite bosques, nesting sites and feeding grounds.  For hard-core birders, viewing blinds are set up along the shores.  In addition to the hiking trails, the site features a kiddie playground with educational (dinosaur dig, anybody) opportunities, an observatory and a hefty events calendar.

LENGTH: 1.7 miles one-way

RATING: easy,barrier-free

ELEVATION: 1,200’

DOGS:  dogs MUST be on leash

KID FRIENDLY?: yes, very

HOURS: open daily dawn to dusk

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix travel east on US 60 to Greenfield Road. Go south on Greenfield to Guadalupe, hang a left and continue less than a block to the preserve parking areas on the right.

INFO & MAP:

Town of Gilbert, 480-503-6200

http://www.riparianinstitute.org/riparian.cfm

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Canyon Creek's amazing recovery

CANYON CREEK

Near Young

Issuing from the base of the Mogollon Rim, Canyon Creek is  a top Arizona fishing and hiking destination.  Back in 2002, the Rodeo-Chedeski fire torched parts of the forests surrounding this beautiful perennial stream while leaving other sections intact. Since the fire swept through, the forest service, game & fish and other agencies have been working to restore and stabilize  the waterway.  Vegetation has been replanted and fencing keeps resident wildlife from browsing sensitive saplings.   In between the blackened trunks and  barren knolls, pockets of lush pines, alders, locusts and willows frame sprawling green pastures that burst with color in summer wildflower season (May -September). The hike is a combination of stream side bushwhacking, meadow strolls and--where the brambles are too thick to stay near the water---adjacent FR 188 serves as a detour.  Beginning at Airplane Flat campground (which was untouched by the fire) the hike portal is a wooden gate near campsite #10.   Narrow paths blazed by anglers head toward the water and sometimes are obscured by brush and dead tree fall. Also, be prepared to crawl under barbed wire and pass various gate contraptions put in place to protect newborn riparian vegetation. (Please do not cut or otherwise alter these fences). At roughly 1.25 miles, OW Bridge leads to a private ranch.  Here, informative signs with maps, fishing rules and insight into the creek restoration project mark a popular stop for anglers trying for  coveted brown trout.  Continue hiking south along the stream---there's no definitive way to go, just head in the direction of the the water, crossing back and forth at low flow points or on primitive log “bridges”---expect wet feet if you really want to get the most out of this trek. Numerous signs along the road herald additional access points and you'll probably run into people fishing along the banks on your way to the 5-mile point where the trail ends at the Fort Apache Indian Reservation.

LENGTH: 5 miles one way

RATING: easy (some route-finding)

ELEVATION: 6,200' – 6,600'

KID FRIENDLY?: yes

DOGS: leashed dogs allowed

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX:  140 miles one way

FACILITIES: outhouses, non-reservable camp sites, site host in season, picnic tables

FEE: none.  Some hike reports state that a Tonto Pass is required.  It is not.

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, travel north on AZ87 (Beeline Highway) to the AZ260 junction in Payson.  Turn east (right) and continue 32 miles on AZ260 to Young Road (FR 512) between mileposts 284-285.  Turn south (right) and go 3 miles to FR 33 (Canyon Creek Recreation Area) located just past milepost 330.  Turn left and go 5 miles on FR 33  to Airplane Flat campground.  The last 5 miles are on a winding, precipitous, but good dirt road suitable for sedans in dry weather.  Do not park in designated campsites---use the dirt turnouts.

INFO: Pleasant Valley Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, 928-462-4300

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/tonto/recreation/camping-cabins/recarea/?recid=35645&actid=29

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