Mormon Lake Lookout Site

MORMON LAKE LOOKOUT SITE

Gate on Mormon Lake Lookout road

There are few certainties in life, but one fixed reality is, things fall apart.  Whether a star dying in a spectacular super nova or the protracted disintegration of a favorite pair of shoes, sooner or later everything in the taxonomy of the natural world will expire.  While we are dialed-in to the mundane disintegrations that go on right under our noses every day (oil in a car, paint on house, cells in our brains) the slow-burn of obsolescence and decay on mountain back roads reads more poetic than prosaic.  

Cinder pit along FR 124C

Perhaps because we don’t look at them every day, the breakdown of land forms and back woods human-made artifacts barely registers.  And since we’re not scrambling to fix them, they exist as curiosities instead of problems.

Masonry box at Iowa Camp Spring

A stroll along Forest Road 124C near Mormon Lake exposes several sites where falling apart happens with engaging style.

Pine thermopsis bloom April - July

 Located at the south end of the Arizona’s largest natural lake, FR124C in Coconino National Forest is a rough two-track open to motorized travel that traces the edge of Anderson Mesa in the plateau lakes region 25 miles south of Flagstaff. 

View from the abandoned lookout site

The road makes a moderate, steady climb heading toward an unnamed hill where the Mormon Lake fire lookout tower once stood.  From the start, the route enters a forest dominated by ponderosa pines and gamble oaks, steering away from the whir of cars passing on Lake Mary Road.  At the 0.3-mile point, a narrow side road on the left leads to a cinder pit that looks like a miniature version of Red Mountain, a collapsed cinder cone volcano north of Flagstaff.  The pit, which is sometimes used by recreational shooters, is a long, broken cliff of volcanic rock with ashen hoodoos eroding out of a cascade of crumbling red cinders.  Volcanic features like this one can form over weeks to years but take millions of years to break down as is happening here.

Summit views are sparse but breathtaking

Beyond the pit, the road enters a higher eco-zone where Douglas, white and cork bark fir trees mingle with the pines.  Between the branches, glimpses of Mormon Lake going through one of its cyclical breakdowns appears as a golden pasture where during wetter years, a shallow lake fills the bowl-like depression.  As the forest grows thicker and the road becomes steeper, a pop of wildflower color gives away the location of the moist environment around Iowa Camp Spring.  Take the non-motorized Forest Road 9474D detour and hike a few yards to visit the site and its stone-masonry spring box.  Trees, shrubs and time are encroaching the historic artifact that looks as if it’s been a while since water flowed in more than a trickle from its rusted pipes.  Around the point where the road reaches 7,600 feet in elevation, a small grove of aspen trees stands in a drainage on the right. 

FR124B leads to the lookout site

Fremont barberry blooms April - July

Aspens have been in a decades-long decline in Northern Arizona.  Stressed by insects, pathogens, drought, frost, browsing elk and dense forests that block sunlight, the trees that reproduce mostly by sprouting root systems that can be viable for up to thousands of years are not regenerating at a healthy rate.  Forest scientists are trying to figure out what is causing the dieback and how best to manage the situation. 

Rubble marks the location of the old fire lookout

Mixed conifir woodlands along FR 124C

At the 2.2-mile point, the road comes to a fork where Forest Road 124B, a non-motorized dirt road, swerves off to the right.  This junction is signed, but the road number post is not easy to spot.

Aspens are in decline in Coconino NF

 FR124B leads to the abandoned lookout site, gaining 277 feet in just under a mile.  Near the top of the hill, there’s a metal gate and a trail log marking the final 0.2-mile walk to the summit.  On top, the views that can be found in the spaces between trees are sparse but breathtaking. 

Mormon Mountain (right) seen from the trailhead

A jumble of boulders hint at the recent decommissioning and demolition of the former Mormon Lake Lookout and cabin.  The site was home to a wooden lookout built in 1915 that was replaced in 1927 with a 48-foot metal tower topped with a 7 x 7-foot cab.

Dry Mormon Lake (center) sen from FR 124C

 It’s unclear why the fire watch tower was abandoned, but the Hutch Mountain Lookout to the south seems a likely usurper. 

Eroding hoodoos at the cinder pit site

Judging from backhoe marks on boulders strewn on the site, the tower’s demise was planned, swift and clean, unlike the other falling apart things along the roads leading to it.

LENGTH:  5.9 miles round trip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION:  7,109- 7,977 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, go 25.6 miles south on Lake Mary Road (County Road 3) to Forest Road 124C on the left past milepost 319.  Park in the dirt turnouts. 

INFO:

http://nhlr.org/lookouts/us/az/mormon-lake-lookout/

Corduroy Wash

CORDUROY WASH

Stock tank in Corduroy Wash attracts wildlife

Tucked into coniferous woodlands at the edge of the Mogollon Rim a few miles east of Fossil Springs Wilderness and north of the prominent rock jetty of Milk Ranch Point, numerous drainages spill south percolating through the Rim’s vertical walls to contribute to

important watersheds that eventually flow into the Verde and Salt Rivers. 

The hike follows FR 9385

Among these scoured channels is Corduroy Wash which cuts shallow ravines in the forested space between State Route 260 and Forest Road 149 in Coconino National Forest.  This quiet drainage area may be explored by walking Forest Road 9385.  The road is also part of the General Crook Trail No.130, that was built in 1870s and stretched between Fort Whipple and Fort Apache.

Mountain dandelions bloom May through Oct.

Twenty five miles of the formerly 200-mile historic military wagon route that roughly follows Rim Road (Forest Road 300) is maintained by the forest service and is denoted by distinctive white chevron tree tags used to mark the trail remain intact.  While the tree tags are sparse, and not so easy to spot, finding your way along FR 9385 is a cinch.  The road is well signed, wide and presents no major obstacles.  Here’s how to hike it. From the parking area on SR 260, pass the gate (close it behind you) and head out on the old dirt two-track that’s open to motorized use. 

Most of the route is on a non-motorized road

This sunny section is prime wildflower territory.  Look for low-growing Southwestern Lewisia, brilliant yellow mountain dandelions, wood betony and delicate Fendler’s sandwort growing among pine needles and limestone boulders. 

Low-growing Southwestern lewisia color the trail

At the 0.7-mile point, a pine-rimmed stock tank (wildlife water hole) on the left reflects the sky and attracts wildlife.
Check out its muddy edges for the signatures of elk, deer, raccoons and even black bears.  A few yards beyond the tank, a gate marks the beginning of the non-motorized part of this hike. 

Escape Valley heat on the Mogollon Rim

Pass the gate (again, close it behind you), veer left at the next fork and watch your step as the road begins an easy descent onto the riffled gorge of Corduroy Wash. 

The PBJ Pack dog-tested and approved the hike

The approachable, yet remote-feeling environment that vacillates between deep woods and bright meadows is an ideal place to hike with dogs.  On my recent hike here, I ran into the PBJ Pack, a Glendale Arizona-based canine “adventure squad” consisting of hilariously-dressed Maltese-Pekinese-Yorkie-Poodle hikers Pebbles, Benji, Bruiser and Jax along with their human companions Brandi and Pete. 

Fendler's sandwort blooms April through Sept.

Although some members of the pack are older and have special needs they found that Corduroy Wash is an enjoyable place to get outside and smell the world.

Hike begins across from Twentynine Mile Lake

Follow their adventures at pbjpack.com.

Hike goes through deep woods and open meadows

The hike ends where the non-motorized two-track connects with Forest Road 149, but numerous tangent back roads offer opportunities to escape Valley heat by wandering at will in the cool shade of the Mogollon Rim.

April -June is the best time to see wood betony

LENGTH: 4.8 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy

ELEVATION:  6,982 – 7,160 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Interstate 17 in Camp Verde, take the State Route 260 exit 287 heading east toward Payson.  Continue 32.5 miles on SR 260 (Zane Grey Highway) to Forest Road 9385 a dirt road on the left about a quarter-mile past milepost 250 at Twentynine Mile Lake. This is 1.2 miles north of the State Route 87 junction for those coming north from the Pine-Strawberry area.  Park in dirt pullouts. There’s additional parking across the road along FR9366R near Twentynine Mile Lake.

INFO:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/recarea/?recid=55312

 

VIDEO: Maricopa Trail Restoration

 VIDEO: MARICOPA TRAIL RESTORATION

 Trail Restoration on the Granite Mountain-Bronco segment of the Maricopa Trail following the October 2020 Sears Fire.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0PnI-WQ0Os

Quartz Ridge Trail

PIESTEWA PEAK QUARTZ RIDGE TRAIL 8A

Downtown Phoenix viewed from Quartz Ridge

Looking for a way to enjoy the desert beauty surrounding Piestewa Peak and get a good workout without elbow-to-elbow crowds?  Try the Quartz Ridge 8A trail. 

A massive quartz block on Quartz Ridge trail

Located southeast of the extremely popular Piestewa Peak summit trail in the Piestewa Peak-Dreamy Draw Trails section of the

Phoenix Mountains Preserve, trail 8A offers a similar experience in a less congested slice of the craggy hills.  The 1.7-mile path traces gullies and foothills below the distinctive 2,608-foot hill that stand high above the skyline just a few miles north of downtown Phoenix off State Route 51.

Creosote grows along Quartz Ridge trail

Edgy switchbacks ascend Quartz Ridge

While the trail may be reached via several connected routes, the 32^nd Street trailhead offers direct access.  Unlike the summit route which goes straight up, Quartz Ridge is a double-hump workout.  The trail starts on a wide, easy grade that parallels a deep, tree-cluttered wash. 

The route makes several wash crossings

While making its mild ascent, the trail passes by jagged stone outcroppings sprinkled with white quartz nodules that gradually grow in size and scope until the it meets an enormous ivory boulder at the base of a ridge where quartz chunks spill downhill like tossed confetti. 

Phoenix Mountains Preserve trails are well-signed

From this point on, the route dips through washes and climbs exposed ridges exposing ever-expanding views of downtown Phoenix and mountain ranges to the south.  About halfway through the hike, a short segment of tight, edge-hugging switchbacks move trekkers uphill to a scenic saddle near the highpoint. 

Hike ends at the L.V. Yates trail junction

Here, east and north Valley vistas come into view and a stone bench beckons hikers to take a break and enjoy the sights. The trail then makes a swerving dive into a cliff-bound ravine where saguaro cacti and blooming shrubs thrive on rugged cliffs and sandy washes. 

Trixis shrubs grow in wash areas

Don't be a statistic. Heed this advise.

Lumps of quartz stained with orange and ashen veneers reappear in colorful piles and fields of snowy nuggets.  After one final dip through a water-worn bend, the trail meets its end in a small, grotto-like area where it intersects with the L.V. Yates trail. 

North Valley views sen from Quartz Ridge

Strawberry hedgehog cacti add color to the hike

Make this your turnaround point or consult park maps to customize a longer hike.  Either way, with Valley temperatures rapidly approaching the century mark, stay safe by paying attention to the city’s “Take a hike. Do it right.” kiosks posted at trailheads.  While accidents do happen, having to be hauled off a trail by search and rescue personnel due to heat-related incidents is easily preventable.

LENGTH: 3.4 miles up-and-back

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 1,358 – 1,842 feet (888 feet accumulated elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

32^nd Street Trailhead:

6511 E. Sierra Vista Dr., Phoenix

Hours: 5 a.m. to 7 p.m.

INFO: City of Phoenix

https://www.phoenix.gov/parks/trails/locations/piestewa-peak/hiking-trail-map

Crackerjack Road

CRACKERJACK ROAD

The FR 209 crossing of the East Verde River

From its source on the Mogollon Rim near Washington Park north of Payson, the East Verde River flows southwest through Tonto National Forest, feeding a gorgeous swath of greenery before merging with the Verde River. 

The first part of the hike follows Ash Creek

Over its 34-mile length, the central Arizona waterway cuts through a transitional landscape where the desert creeps up against sheer rock escarpments at the edge of the Colorado Plateau trickling down from an environment of tall pines and forest lakes into high desert scrub and rugged backcountry of the Mazatzal Wilderness.  

Milk vetch is a common bloomer along the hike

Where the tributary stream wraps around Houston Mesa Road at its confluence with Ellison Creek, the Water Wheel group of recreation sites attract anglers, bathers and hikers. 

Riparian corridor of the East Verde River

Those who don’t mind crowds, noise and hefty day-use fees will have a blast at these splashy, easy-access hot spots.  But for a less congested look at the waterway’s midsection, take a stroll on a nearby back road. 

FR 209 crosses Ash Creek several times

More plod than plunge—don’t bother packing a swimsuit-- this moderate hike follows Forest Road 209 that’s also known as Crackerjack Road.  

Sycamore and chiseled cliffs line FR 209

The dirt track, which is part of the Payson OHV Trails system, begins 3 miles north of town off State Route 87.  From the highway, it’s just over a 3-mile hike to the East Verde, but it’s the stuff in between that makes this walk memorable. 

Crossing at the East Verde River

Seeds of an ash tree

The road traces the course of Ash Creek, crossing it several times as it makes a gentle descent through pine woodlands.  The first mile passes by many campsites used by OHV enthusiasts but soon leaves the party scene behind and enters a stunning, canyon-bound riparian corridor. 

Shaggy, green-white bark of an AZ sycamore

Lined with sycamores, cottonwoods and the eponymous ash trees, the trip unpacks amazing views of sculpted cliffs and scoured ravines.  At the 2-mile point near where some powerlines cross the route, the road emerges from the deep woods around Ash Creek and heads uphill where the gaping gorge of Horton Canyon stand out to the south.  

Fresh sprouts on an ash tree

At the top of a rise, first glimpses of the river’s emerald entrenchment winding past the East Verde Estates community come into view.  To the north, peeks at the distant flat-topped Mogollon Rim barely rise above a terrain of endless gullies, hills and juniper flats.  From this point, the road dips downhill paralleling the river’s flood plains.

Vegetation thrives along Ash Creek

The road heads uphill near Horton Canyon

Corralled by colorful stone embankments rubbed smooth by running water, the East Verde River crossing is a beautiful little place with room to explore along its banks. 

Gregg's ceanothus shrubs smell like lilacs

Still pools, clear cascades and tumbling mini waterfalls reflect russet rock walls and leafy fringes for many perfect photo opps.  

The hike turnaround point is where clumps of reeds and saplings encroach upon a concrete slab that spans the water and a Salt River Project water monitoring station stands near a massive cottonwood tree.  For a longer albeit dryer and hotter hike, follow the road another 4 miles to the Crackerjack Mine site, otherwise, backtrack and enjoy the watershed in reverse.

Peaceful scene along the East Verde River

LENGTH: 6.4 miles round trip to the river and back.

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 4,389 – 4,831 feet (1,083 feet of accumulated gain)

GETTING THERE:

From the State Route 87/260 junction in Payson, go 3 miles north on SR 87 to Forest Road 209 at milepost 256 on the left.  Park in the dirt turnout or continue along FR 209 to one of the many parking aprons and campsites along the road.  The road is sedan-friendly for about one mile. 

INFO: https://www.tralaz.org/