DAVENPORT HILL

DAVENPORT HILL: Kaibab National Forest

Dogtown Lake & Bill Williams Mtn from Davenport Trl

Situated in the far southwest corner of the San Francisco Volcanic Field--a swath of impressive igneous features that arcs from the northern Arizona town of Williams to Flagstaff-- Davenport Hill is an anthill among giants.

Pines frame views of Kaibab National Forest

The 7805-foot mesa-like mound near Dogtown Lake 8 miles southeast of Williams barely registers a blip on hiker radar and recedes when compared to nearby lava domes and composite volcanoes like Bill Williams Mountain (8,800 feet), San Francisco Peaks (12,633 feet) and Kendrick Peak (10,418 feet).  Like its contemporary mounts, Davenport Hill sports a scenic trail that leads to its summit. For a less physically-demanding but rewarding summit trek, a hike up this little hill delivers the goods without the pain.

Summit of 7805-foot Davenport Hill

Lupines thrive in oak woodlands on Davenport Hill

Deeply wooded for its entire length, the trail twists up the hill’s north face through several vegetation zones, terrain types and vista orientations for a continually-changing sensory experience.   

Small-leaf pussytoes bloom May - August

The trek begins on the Ponderosa Trail, a 1-mile interpretive loop that passes through pine forests at the edge of green wetlands behind the Dogtown Lake dam. The moist swale that bisects this easy loop is a magnet for mountain bluebirds, robins, Steller’s jays, waterfowl, elk, bears and furry critters. In summer the moist drainage area fosters Rocky Mountain irises and dozens of other high-elevation wildflowers that add color to the forest floor. At the 0.3-mile point, turn right at the Davenport Hill trail sign where the route passes a gate before taking on the mountain in a leisurely mix of short, steep climbs and lingering inclines. Although the trail ascends 755 feet, flowing switchbacks take most of the sweat and toil out of the climb. The first mile is an effortless stroll through woodlands of Gambel oak, Ponderosa pines and sunny clearings. The uphill trudge begins where the trail crosses unsigned Forest Road 717 and moves onto the first of several edge-hugging switchbacks.

Wetlands on the Ponderosa Trail

Now comes the best part—breaks in the tree cover reveal views of the mountains and prairies of the Kaibab National Forest and the faint clank and hum of passing trains.

A hike around Dogtown Lake adds 1.8 miles to the hike

Look carefully in the direction of the mournful rattles and horns and you might spot a train snaking across the plains. On clear days, the bright white turbines of the Perrin Ranch Wind Energy Center can be seen dotting the plains 13 miles north of Williams.

White firs shade the upper portion of the trail

When operating at full capacity, the array of sixty-two, 262-foot-high turbines provide clean energy for more than 20,000 Arizona homes.  Farther up, the trail ducks into a sheer canyon shaded with moss-draped Douglas and white firs.  The slim path traverses the canyon walls landing hikers on the final uphill haul where picture-perfect views of Dogtown Lake and Bill Williams Mountain dominate the horizon.  Once past a second gate (with a stubborn barbed wire latch) the trail emerges on the summit ridge for a short, flat walk to the highpoint.

San Francisco Peaks seen from Davenport Hill summit

Robust stands of oak arch over the footpath that’s lined with lupine and globs of russet basalt that confirm the hill’s volcanic origins. 

Wind turbines visible in the distance

A massive rock pile made of the same reddish lava blobs (and artfully- arranged animal bones) found along the trail marks the summit proper.

Lupines color the forest floor

Beyond the super cairn, views of the San Francisco Peaks stand out on the northeast skyline. Given its position on the dubious side of hiker radar; chances are pretty good that you’ll have this quiet mountain top all to yourself.

Dense tree cover frames great views

A rustic gate marks the summit approach

Descend back to the Ponderosa Trail junction along the same path but take the opposite fork to complete the loop. If you’re still up for more, step out on the informal angler path that circles the lake for an additional, easy 1.8 miles of shoreline hiking around the high-elevation fishing hole that’s prized for its abundant trout, bass and catfish as well as for watercraft recreation.

Bill Williams Mountain looms over Kaibab NF woodlands 

View from the summit of Davenport Hill

LENGTH: 5.6 miles roundtrip (not including lake circumference hike)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7050 - 7805 feet

GETTING THERE:

In Williams, go 3.8 miles south on Fourth Street (County Road 73/Perkinsville Road) to Forest Road 140. Turn east (left) onto FR 140 and go 2.8 miles to Forest Road 132, turn north (left) onto FR 132 and go 1.2 miles to the boat ramp at Dogtown Lake campground. From the boat ramp parking area, follow the Ponderosa Trail 0.2-mile to the Davenport Hill trail junction.

There’s no fee for day-use parking and there are restrooms and picnic tables nearby. Camping is by reservation only.

INFO: Kaibab National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=11671&actid=50

CLOVER SPRING TRAIL # 46

CLOVER SPRING

Williams

Clover Spring

On a mountain with no shortage of summit-busting hiking trails, it takes will power to swerve off the epic routes onto one with a subtler kind of charisma. Whether bypassed due to time constraints, bad weather or dwindling supplies, secondary routes often get ignored in favor of heavily travelled arterial trails. Clover Spring Trail #46 epitomizes the joy to be found on the little trails that compete for love with the summit routes on Bill Williams Mountain.

Trough at Clover Spring

More an option than a diversion, this shady, moderate path is toggled to challenging Bill Williams Mountain Trail #21 and can be hiked as either a short loop or an alternative leg that adds less than a mile to the standard summit route. The "C"-shaped connector moves through beautiful woodlands overlooking the city of Williams. A short section of climbing among lichen-cloaked boulders precedes the arrival at a rustic concrete trough marking Clover Spring. Don't expect to find water, though. The spring runs best only during spring snow melt season. Beyond the spring, the trail continues on to Buckskinner Park, a municipal recreation site with its own trail system and fishing lake. To find Clover Spring Trail from the trailhead, hike 0.15-mile on Trail #21 and turn left at the signed lower junction. Continue 0.85-mile to the spring located just beyond the upper junction. Back track to the turnoff, hike 0.6-mile then either turn right and follow the signs back to the trailhead or continue up to the mountaintop.

Pine-oak forests shade the trail

LENGTH: 3-mile loop or 9.4 miles with summit hike

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 6,900' - 7,200' (9,250' with summit)

GETTING THERE:

From Interstate 40 in Williams, take exit 161, go south on Railroad Ave. and follow the signs to the trailhead across from the Williams District Ranger Station.

INFO: Kaibab National Forest

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/recarea/?recid=11669&actid=50

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BENHAM TRAIL

BENHAM TRAIL

Williams

Aspens near the summit of Bill Williams Mountain

Heading west from Flagstaff on Interstate 40, the distinctive profile of Bill Williams Mountain juts over sprawling prairies criss-crossed with railroad tracks and remnants of Historic Route 66. The mountain's lumpy appearance is the result of multiple volcanic events that caused lava to accumulate in irregular heaps. The eruptions that occurred roughly 4.2 to 2.8 million years ago mark the western edge of the San Francisco Volcanic Field---an arc of molten rock relics that includes San Francisco Mountain (Humphreys Peak) stretching from Williams to north east of Flagstaff. Mountains like this one are just too tempting not to conquer. Because it's there, three ways to get to its summit have been established. You could drive to the top on the dirt road, but what fun is that? A more entertaining way up is to hike one of the single track trails.   Although both routes are about the same length, each offers a unique experience. Bill William Mountain Trail makes a straight up climb on massif's lush, aspen and fern populated north face. An easier, albeit still challenging route is the Benham Trail which employs long switchbacks to take much of the sting out of its ascent of the mountain's dryer eastern flank.  On the way up, look for expansive views of Garland Prairie, Sycamore Canyon Wilderness and a living slide show of Flagstaff-area peaks poking thru canopies of Gambel oak. Near the top, you'll encounter some aspens, fir, spruce and mossy rocks before the trail lands at a saddle with photogenic views of an impressive, pine-fleeced pinnacle called Finger Rock. From this scenic landing, head right on the dirt road for the final half mile trudge to the top. On the summit, an array of humming communication towers and a 1937 vintage fire lookout hover above swarms of brilliant red-orange ladybugs that congregate on shrubs and stony outcroppings. The best time to see the annual beetle convergence is from late spring thru summer.

Summit vista

LENGTH: 9 miles roundtrip

RATING: difficult

ELEVATION: 7,300' - 9,256'

GETTING THERE:

San Francisco Peaks 

From Interstate 40 in Williams, take exit 165 and follow Railroad Road 2.4 miles to 4th Street. Turn left and continue 3.6 miles south (4th St. becomes Perkinsville Road/County Road 73) to the trailhead turnoff past milepost 181. Roads are paved/gravel and sedan-friendly.

INFO: Williams Ranger District, Kaibab National Forest

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/recarea/?recid=11665&actid=50

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Bill Williams Watershed Closure 2014

 Kaibab National Forest To Take Additional Precautions

To Prevent Human-Caused Fires

UPDATE: closure will be lifted at 8 a.m., July 8, 2014.

Kaibab NF Press Release, 6-2-2014:

 WILLIAMS, Ariz. – The Kaibab National Forest is taking additional steps to reduce the risk of preventable human-caused fires.  As of Friday (June 6) at 8 a.m. the North Kaibab Ranger District will enter campfire and smoking restrictions, and the Williams Ranger District will close the Bill Williams Mountain Watershed to public entry. 
Under the North Kaibab Ranger District’s campfire and smoking restrictions, which are also known as Stage 1 fire restrictions, fires, campfires, charcoal, coal and wood stoves will be allowed in developed campgrounds only.  The restrictions will also limit smoking to within enclosed vehicles or buildings or in developed campgrounds. 
 On the Williams Ranger District, which is already under Stage II fire restrictions, the Bill Williams Mountain Watershed will be closed to public entry.  This includes hiking, horseback riding, driving, camping and all other recreational and industrial activities.
 The Bill Williams Mountain Watershed closure area will be bounded to the east by 4^th Street and County Road 73, to the south by Forest Service Road (FSR) 122, to the west by FSR 108, and to the north by Interstate 40.  (THIS INCLUDES BILL WILLIAMS MOUNTAIN TRAIL, BENHAM TRAIL, BIXLER SADDLE and all trails on or around the mountain.)
 Forest managers often close the Bill Williams Mountain Watershed to public entry during fire season.  Bill Williams Mountain is the primary watershed for the City of Williams, and a major wildfire and subsequent flooding would be devastating to the city and surrounding communities. 
The entire Williams and Tusayan ranger districts remain under Stage II fire restrictions, which prohibit campfires, even in developed campgrounds; prohibit discharging a firearm, except while engaged in a lawful hunt; and, limit many industrial activities.
 For detailed information about fire restrictions and the closure of the Bill Williams Mountain Watershed, visit www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab or call the Kaibab National Forest fire information phone line at (928) 635-8311.
 For information about fire restrictions across Arizona, visit http://firerestrictions.us/az/ or call 1-877-864-6985.

BIXLER SADDLE

BIXLER SADDLE Kaibab National Forest Short and scenic, this trail offers an alternative to the more challenging trails on Bill Williams Mountain. Climbing the west slope of the hill, this nicely-wooded hike features lovely views of the expansive prairies of northwestern Arizona. HIGHLIGHTS: interesting rock formations, views, ample shade LENGTH: 4 miles roundtrip ELEVATION: 7,700 – 8,740 feet RATING: moderate BEST SEASONS: April - October DRIVING DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 185 miles one-way GETTING THERE: From Flagstaff, go west on I-40 to the Devil Dog interchange (exit 157). Go south on Forest Road 108 for 1 mile and turn left (east) Forest Road 45. Continue 2 miles on FR 45 to the trailhead. INFORMATION: Williams Ranger District (928) 635-5600,
MAP: http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5189842.pdf

BILL WILLIAMS MOUNTAIN TRAIL

BILL WILLIAMS MOUNTAIN TRAIL Kaibab National Forest Switchbacks are zig-zagging cuts in mountain trails designed to make steep ascents easier by adding miles and tempering vertical slopes. Don’t look for them on Bill Williams Mountain Trail #21. Constructed as a horse trail in 1902 to service the fire tower on the summit, this trail wastes no time on switchbacks, plowing straight up in abrupt, heart-pumping style. Most of the route is canyon-bound and thick with trees, vines and flowering shrubs. Views are sparse until the trail emerges on a ridgeline below the summit where fir trees and aspens embellish breathtaking vistas. HIGHLIGHTS: shady, steep route to a mountain summit LENGTH: 8 miles roundtrip ELEVATION: 6,900 – 9,256 feet RATING: moderate BEST SEASONS: April - October DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 185 miles GETTING THERE: From Flagstaff, go 30 miles west on I-40 to exit 161, go south on Railroad Ave. and follow the signs to Williams District Ranger Station and the trailhead. INFORMATION: Williams Ranger District (928) 635-5600, MAP: http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5189840.pdf

BENHAM TRAIL

BENHAM TRAIL Kaibab National Forest Thick stands of spruce and fir trees spike the thin air on the Benham Trail with a jolt of invigorating mountain aroma. Bursting out of the highlands west of Flagstaff, 9,256-foot-tall Bill Williams Mountain is the dominant landmark in the area and the Benham Trail is the most gradual and scenic path to its summit. Bill Williams Mountain is a lava dome volcano that erupted from the earth’s core more than 4 million years ago and it’s among the oldest of the volcanic features of northern Arizona. The molten rock that pushed up the mountain in a series of oozing flows has since been camouflaged in a layer of oaks, aspens, wildflowers and fragrant conifer forests. The trail crosses FR 111 (the dirt road that leads to the summit) three times before it finally merges with it for the final half-mile hike to the top. Because the peak is cluttered with a fire lookout and an array of communication towers, you’ll need to explore carefully to discover the many panoramic viewpoints where swarms of ladybugs and inquisitive rock squirrels live quietly in the metal jungle. LENGTH: 9 miles round trip RATING: Moderate ELEVATION: 7,050-9,256 feet GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take I-17 north to Flagstaff. From Flagstaff, connect to I-40 west and drive for 33 miles to the town of Williams. In Williams, go south on Fourth Street (FR 73/Perkinsville Road) and continue for about 3.5 miles to FR 140. Go right onto FR 140 and follow the signs for one quarter of a mile to the signed trailhead where there are restrooms but no other facilities. The paved and gravel roads are passable by sedan.
INFO & MAP: http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5189838.pdf