SOUTH FORK TRAIL

SOUTH FORK TRAIL

Willows hug the So. Fork of the Little Colorado River

At the point on the South Fork Trail #97 where the route crosses a creek and begins its grueling climb, I was jolted to a stop by screams that sounded like an injured dog.  In a flash, a herd of elk bolted across the trail just yards ahead of me.  Five females in tandem, then a lone male. 

Eden meets Hell.

They scrambled up a knoll following the cries of a distressed calf.  The adults circled the young one who continued to wail from its high perch. Two more elk burst from the creek, stopping briefly to stare me down before they charged up to meet the herd, round up the calf and bolt into the back county.  They gave me a thrill and I reciprocated with exactly what they needed--their space. 

Encounters like this one are common on the White Mountains trails of northeastern Arizona.

Wild roses bloom through August.

Before venturing out into the forests, hikers should be aware of common-sense rules for respecting wildlife.  The basic concept is to keep wildlife wild by not approaching, harassing, “helping” or feeding them.  

A beaver dam on the river.

The Arizona Game & Fish website is a good resource for learning about responsible wildlife viewing. Simple habits like observing from a distance, sticking to trails, keeping food secured, avoiding nest and den areas and knowing what to do (and not do) should you encounter a wild animal can protect both you and the animals. 

The South Fork Trail #97 near Eagar, with its proximity to water and varied habitats is a wildlife magnet.  The challenging route can be done as an out-and-back or car shuttle hike.  Most people begin at the South Fork day use area.  Shaded by tall pines, firs and spruce trees, the first mile of the trail escaped the wrath of the 2011 Wallow Fire that burned more than a half million acres of the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest.  This Eden-like stretch follows the South Fork of the Little Colorado River.  The waterway is cluttered with willows, alders, Red-osier dogwood, skunk bush, poison ivy (leaves of three; let it be) and wild roses.  Where the water comes closest to the trail, be on the lookout for stealthy Great blue herons and ingeniously-constructed beaver dams. As the trail moves southeast, gradually gaining elevation, it creeps up on the scar of the fire. 

An elk bolts across the trail.

A charred tree trunk here and a pile of burnt logs there precede the kick-in-the-gut moment.  Just over a mile in, Eden meets Hell.  

Greens Peak (left) and the Springerville Volcanic Field

Oddly prefaced by a gateway of willows, the next 5 miles of flame-plundered terrain are physically taxing and difficult to process emotionally.  Those who remember what the trail looked like before the fire will find this segment heartbreaking. 

So. Fork of the Little Colorado on the way to the trailhead

Running through the middle of the canyon-bound wasteland, a slender trickle of water clunks and chugs beneath a resurgent fringe of aspen saplings and spotty stands of survivor pines.  From this point on, you’ll need to hop over dead fall and stay alert for other hazards.  Three miles in, the trail crosses the river and begins a 1500-foot ascent to the top of a bench where views of the surrounding Springerville Volcanic Field roll out to the New Mexico border. 

Boggy Mexican Hay Lake attracts pronghorn.

The high mounds of Greens Peak and Mount Baldy tower over dozens of eroded cinder cones and acres of golden grasslands.  The route then winds down toward Mexican Hay Lake, which is rarely more than a weedy bog.  The open space surrounding the lake is prime habitat for pronghorn.  One of the fastest land mammals, the elegant, horned beasts can run as fast as 60 miles-per-hour.

Red-osier dogwood grows along the river.

It’s worth sitting quietly at the edge of the lake to catch a glimpse of them sprinting over open prairies leaving clouds of rattled birds in their wake.  The trail ends at the northwest edge of the lake; however, a rough, mile-long dirt road continues to State Route 261 and the Point of the Mountain Vista rest area.  If you parked a shuttle vehicle there, just keep walking, otherwise, return the way you came. 

The first mile of the trail escaped the Wallow Fire.

On a recent visit, I was startled by a family of Bighorn Sheep lounging on a picnic ramada at the rest area.  They seemed unconcerned about my presence as they lazed in the shade at the edge of a scenic overlook area. 

The 2011 Wallow Fire damaged much of the trail.

Whether the shaggy band wandered there by chance or because they had learned to associate picnic tables with food handouts, I gave them what they needed most--- telephoto lens distance, a clear escape route and not a smidge of food.

Bighorn Sheep at Point of the Mountain vista area.

LENGTH: 14 miles round trip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7540 – 9060 feet

Greenery along So.Fork of the Little Colorado River.

GETTING THERE:

South Fork Trailhead

From the Hon-Dah Casino in Pinetop-Lakeside, go 32.8 miles east on State Route 260 to County Road 4124 located near milepost 390 on the right.  Go 2.6 miles south on CR 4124, cross a bridge and turn right into the trailhead parking area. Roads are paved and sedan-friendly gravel.

Point of the Mountain

From the County Road 4124 turnoff, continue 2.3 miles east on State Route 260 to State Route 261, past mile post 393. Turn right and go 7.1 miles to the vista point on the left just past milepost 405. Hike 200 feet back up SR 261 and follow Forest Road 70B/FR8070B (unmarked at this writing) around the lake to the trail.  NOTE: SR 261 is paved but the forest roads are rough, unmaintained dirt.  You could drive the mile to the trail but four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended.

INFO & MAPS:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/asnf/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=64872&actid=50

LIVING WITH WILDLIFE:

https://www.azgfd.com/Wildlife/

SOUTH FORK of the LITTLE COLORADO RIVER

South Fork Trail #97 Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Originating in the majestic Rocky Mountains, the Little Colorado River roars south through the plateaus and canyons of northern Arizona. Near the end of its twisting course, the river spawns scores of tributary streams that spill into the serene valleys of the White Mountains. The South Fork Trail follows the river’s southern-most tributary to where it trickles out into marshy open plains and into White Mountain reservoir. The trek begins in the canyon-bound South Fork campground and immediately enters woodlands of mixed conifer and broadleaf trees embellished with lush undergrowths of shrubs and wildflowers. Because the waterway is the beneficiary of a seemingly boundless supply of replenishing rain and spring waters, it runs fast and wild. The sound of rushing water is an appropriate soundtrack for the airborne sprays of water that bounce off the boulders and beaver dams in the river channel. This natural “misting system” keeps the lower portion of the trail dripping in a cool, moist fog. At about the halfway point of the hike, the trail emerges from the forest and leaves the stream behind. From that point, the route embarks on a moderately-steep climb up to a high-altitude bench. Situated at 9,000 feet in elevation, views from the bench are spectacular. The rounded domes of Mount Baldy (11,590 feet) and Escudilla Mountain (10,912 feet) stand out above a sprawling landscape of peaks and valleys. Beneath the bench, boggy Mexican Hay Lake fills the bowl of an alpine meadow attracting hordes of elk, wild turkeys and chattering waterfowl. UPDATE: This trail has been impacted by the WALLOW FIRE, June 2011. LENGTH 11 miles round-trip RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 7510' -8890' GETTING THERE: From the traffic light in downtown Eager, go south on Highway 260 for 5 miles to Country Road 4124. Turn left on CR-4124 and continue for 2.4 miles to the South Fork campground. Just inside the campground, turn right, cross a small bridge and drive another quarter-mile to the signed trailhead.