LATIGO-ROCK TANK- HAWKNEST LOOP

LATIGO-ROCK TANK-HAWKNEST LOOP

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Palo verde trees shade the Latigo trail

Black Mountain seen from Rock Tank Trail

Outdoor recreation opportunities continue to expand in the McDowell Sonoran Preserve.  The permanently protected swath of Sonoran Desert in north Scottsdale that has over 220+ miles of trails that wind through more than 30,000 acres of pristine territory recently gained a new trailhead. 

WAPA power lines on Powerline Road

Located in the preserve’s northwest corner, the Pima-Dynamite trailhead that opened earlier this year, is part of the City of Scottsdale’s Phase 3 Trail Corridor Plan. The roomy access point is bordered by Pima Road and State Trust Land, Dynamite Boulevard and Stagecoach Pass and has parking for more than 200 passenger vehicles and special spots for horse trailers. While still under development, several trails in the Phase 3 project which involves 3,000 acres of land just west of the Brown’s Ranch trailhead are open for use by hikers, bikers and equestrians. Like all preserve trails, the new cluster of sustainably-designed, multi-use routes offer safe, non-motorized access while protecting native plant and wildlife habitats.

To get a quick look at the Phase 3 sector, make a loop hike on the Latigo, Rock Tank, Hawknest and Powerline Road trails. 

New trails in Scottsdale's McDowell Sonoran Preserve

A map kiosk at the trailhead shows the system layout as well as its connectivity with old-favorite preserve trails to the east.  The circuit begins with a short walk on Powerline Road to the Latigo Trail junction. The 1.1-mile Latigo leg is dominated by views of the Western Area Power Administration high voltage powerline.  Not exactly anybody’s idea of a perfect hiking visual experience, the looming spider-like metal structures have an odd, other-worldly presence.

A stony passage on the Hawknest Trail

When framed by the gangly arms of ocotillo and the gnarly branches of dead ironwood trees, the towers embody technology imitating nature. The juxtaposition of wires and wilds elicits mixed responses from trail users. Is the high-voltage canopy a necessary co-existence or an omen of doom?  It’s a dialectic best not explored when disparaging the juice conduits while pulling up trail apps on your phone. 

Bizarre granite rock forms are common site along the trails

Creosote shrubs line the Rock Tank Trail

Granite boulders on the Hawknest Trail

Wires and wilds on Latigo Trail.

Desert Senna blooms April - October

Hawknest Trail swerves around a granite rock garden

An old mesquite tree on Hawknest Trail

The hike isn’t all power lines, though.  As the route dips and bends, the wires are swallowed by big desert vistas of surrounding mountains and the distinctive forms of Cone Mountain, Pinnacle Peak and Black Mountain.  Hang a left at the Rock Tank trail junction where acres of saguaros, shrubs and hilly terrain mark the transition into a maze of mountain bike routes to the north. 

Sonoran Desert vegetation of Rock Tank Trail

The twisted paths of Dare A Sarah, Scorpion and Snake Eyes trails form a loopy challenge course in an area that, as of this writing, is signed to advise users to use caution because the area is not yet mapped. The trails are indicated on the trailhead kiosk, though. Continue on to the Hawkneck trail junction, turn left and get ready to hike though some narrow stone corridors with bizarre granite outcroppings. Although this leg of the hike also parallels the power lines, Palo verde, ironwood and mesquite trees do a good job of hiding them from view. 

Technology imitates nature on the Latigo Trail

The final miles back to the trailhead meld swerving singletrack paths with the straight-shot, bulldozed power line road that is both a backbone trail for pristine back country hikes and an access route for maintenance crews that tend the wires that send power to mobile devise charging stations.  The paradox abides.

LENGTH: 3-mile loop

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 2,339- 2,453 feet

GETTING THERE:

Pima-Dynamite Trailhead: 28777 N. Pima Rd., Scottsdale.

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Pima/Princess exit 36, go 6.5 miles north on Pima Road to Dynamite Blvd., turn right and continue 0.1-mile to the trailhead on the left. No facilities at this time. The preserve is open daily from sunrise to sunset.

INFO: McDowell Sonoran Preserve

https://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

BASALT RIDGE OVERLOOK

BASALT RIDGE OVERLOOK

Chunks of lichen-encrusted basalt litter the Basalt Ridge Trl.

Whether you’ve only skimmed its core trails or are a seasoned traveler of Scottsdale’s McDowell Sonoran Preserve, it’s easy to see that the 30,500-acre site is a wonderland of geological features.

Distinctive Cone Mtn. flanks the trails.

Brittlebush is plentiful along the route.

Upper Ranch Trail traverses the saddle of Brown's Mtn.

Invasive mistletoe attracts Phainopela birds.

In the preserve’s north sector, several popular routes wind among the impossible-to-miss mounds of Granite and Cholla Mountains that anchor a landscape of crystalized megaliths, nature-sculpted “mushroom rocks” and stony passages, while other trails wander off into areas with quieter dynamics.  As trail build-out progresses within the North Valley preserve, more and more subdued places are being revealed.

Wolfberry shrubs thrive in moist areas.

Take for instance, the Basalt Ridge Trail.  Like most trails in the preserve, the short singletrack can be accessed via numerous connecting trails.  One scenic option is to start at the Brown’s Ranch Trailhead and take the Upper Ranch Trail. The beauty of this circuit is that it departs the heavily-travelled main corridor almost immediately.  The Upper Ranch Trail glides northward over the saddle between the pointed form of Cone Mountain and flat-topped Brown’s Mountain before descending into a sunny stretch of desert cut with sandy washes, arroyos and impressive vistas of the Cave Creek Mountains.  Where water settles in the drainage areas, fragrant patches of Triangle-leaf bursage, fruit-laden wolfberry shrubs, colorful masses of in-your-face brittlebush flowers and creamy Desert wishbone blooms put on lavish botanical displays.  Roughly 1.6 miles from the start, fist-sized globs of rust-and-ash-colored rock begin to appear scattered along the route. 

Brown's Mtn. framed by blooming creosote.

Look closely and you’ll see the characteristic vesicular texture (holes formed by escaping gasses) of volcanic basalt. Unlike the showy, igneous granites that formed underground millions of years ago, this basalt is the result of surface lava flows or explosive events that also contributed to the site’s geological structure.  At the 1.8-mile point, the Basalt Ridge Trail veers off the Upper Ranch Trail tracing the crest of a low-slung rim.

Desert wishbone bush.

A half-mile and two junctions later, the Basalt Ridge Overlook spur leads to the nose of the rim perched above desert lowlands criss-crossed with dry washes and acres of mesquite. 

Mountain views on Upper Ranch Trail

Triangle-leaf bursage grows near washes.

From this tiny vantage point, views of the Four Peaks in Tonto National Forest to the east peek over Granite Mountain while the closer forms of Pinnacle Peak and Tom’s Thumb are visible to the south. Closer still are glimpses of the acres of preserve land set for future trail development that will undoubtedly add more surprises and deeper perspectives into this complex and beautiful terrain.

Cave Creek Mountains seen from the Basalt Ridge Trail

View from Basalt Ridge Overlook

LENGTH: 4.8 miles out-and-back

RATING: easy

ELEVATION:  2632 – 2741 feet

GETTING THERE:

Brown’s Ranch Trailhead,  

30301 N. Alma School Rd., Scottsdale, 85262.

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Pima/Princess exit 36, travel 6.5 miles north on Pima to Dynamite Road.  Turn right and continue 2.7 miles to Alma School, turn left and drive 1 mile to the trailhead. The preserve is open sunrise to sunset daily.

There are restrooms, water and a map kiosk at the trailhead.

INFO & MAPS:

https://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

Tour de Rock

Tour de Rock

Cathedral Rock

Tucked between the golf greens and suburban communities of North Scottsdale and the rugged wilds of Tonto National Forest, McDowell Sonoran Preserve is an approachable, precious space of pristine desert.  Laced with over 180 miles of hiking, biking and equestrain trails, the preserve protects 30,000 acres of indigenous plants, sensitive habitats, historic artifacts and spectacular geology.

Yuccas are common along the trails

Up-close details are backed with epic views of surrounding mountain ranges and rich valleys carved by the Verde and Salt Rivers.  Eons of exposure to the erosive forces of wind and water has created a plethora of geological curiosities throughout the preserve.  The site's igneous core is anchored by the lumpy mounds of Granite Mountain and Cholla Mountain, but hidden along the perimeter of the latter are three impressive natural rock formations that can be visited in one day-hike length sweep. There are myriad ways to get to the stony attractions. Trails within the preserve are well-signed and maps available online and at the trailhead are excellent tools. However, if your goal is to hit them all in an afternoon, here’s the “Tour de Rock” plan.

Cathedral Rock

The Amphitheater

From the trailhead, follow Brown’s Ranch Road 1 mile north to the Maverick Trail junction.  Hike 0.8 mile on Maverick and go right at the Cholla Mountain Loop Trail. Follow the signs 0.3 mile to The Amphitheater.

Cathedral Rock

This slick rock arena includes natural seating and a giant mass of granite sculpted into a sea serpent form. From here, continue one mile to Balanced Rock. Towering above a flat expanse of cactus and creosote, the cone-shaped behemoth teeters on a granite slab surrounded by rare desert conifers.

Balanced Rock

After posing for the requisite I-was-here photos, retrace your steps to the Cholla Mountain Loop, head north and continue 2.2 miles to Cathedral Rock.  

Views of the Superstition Mtns: Weavers Needle on horizon 

Although the collection of tilted monoliths and jumbled grottos doesn’t look like much from a distance, up close, the site reveals chapel-like windows, crags and a set of metates (grinding holes) used by ancient inhabitants of the area.  Once done ogling and exploring, hike another 0.4 miles back to the Maverick Trail and backtrack to the trailhead.

Amphitheater Sea Serpent

LENGTH: 8.5-mile circuit

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 2710’ – 2972’

GETTING THERE:

Browns Ranch Trailhead.

30301 N. Alma School Pkwy., Scottsdale.

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Pima/Princess exit 36, travel 6.5 miles north on Pima to Dynamite Road.  Turn right and continue 2.7 miles to Alma School, turn left and drive 1 mile to the trailhead. The preserve is open sunrise to sunset daily.

INFO: McDowell Sonoran Preserve

http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

McDowell Sonoran Conservancy

http://www.mcdowellsonoran.org/

WINDGATE-BELL PASS LOOP

WINDGATE-BELL PASS LOOP

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Windgate Pass

In the highly competitive, (oft embellished) sphere of hiking lore, there are precisely two loop circuits in Scottsdale’s McDowell Sonoran Preserve that have earned the title of “epic”.  They are the Tom’s Thumb-East End-Bell Pass Loop and the Windgate-Bell Pass Loop. Both are beautiful. Both will kick your butt. Before tackling the 13-mile, 2,205-foot Tom’s Thumb slog, you might want to do a warm up trek on the later. From a strictly mathematical perspective, the “measly” 1,484 feet from the circuit’s base to its highest point bellies the fact that the mountain’s dips and dives reclaim much of what you gain, multiple times. There’s a 600-foot loss between the two passes alone.  These two ambitious circuits are staples on the training programs of hikers preparing for Grand Canyon Rim-to-Rim trips or long distance hauls on the Arizona Trail.  

Bell Pass

Whether you have eyes on bigger prizes or are just looking for a challenging day hike, the Windgate-Bell Pass Loop satisfies both the urge for a good workout and the desire to wander among the scenic wonders of the Sonoran Desert. The hike begins at the famously busy Gateway Trailhead. A brief walk over a metal bridge leads to the first leg of the circuit which follows one of the preserve’s most popular routes: Gateway Loop. Beyond this 1.6-mile segment, the crowds begin to thin out where Bell Pass Trail veers off and heads uphill. From this point, a relentless series of ups-and-downs through cholla and ocotillo tops out at Bell Pass.

Sonoran Desert beauty

In the shadow of 3,969-foot Thompson Peak, the breezy pass showcases views of Four Peaks, the Verde River, the town of Fountain Hills and an overview of the route snaking through a valley below. This mile-long descent ends at the Windgate Pass Trail where you’ll turn left and earn back all the lost elevation to reach another wide saddle with equally gorgeous vistas.  With the major climbing complete, head down the opposite side of the pass knowing that it’s mostly a downhill trudge.

HIKE DIRECTIONS:

From the trailhead, follow the main access path and Saguaro Trail 0.4 mile to the Gateway Loop junction. Head right and follow Gateway Loop 1.2 miles, connect with Bell Pass Trail and hike 2 miles to the scenic mountain pass. From here, continue 1.3 miles and veer left onto Windgate Pass Trail and climb 0.9 mile up to the pass. Next, descend 2.5 miles to the Gateway Loop junction and follow the signs back to the trailhead.

LENGTH: 9.6-mile loop

RATING: difficult

ELEVATION:  1,720’ – 3,204’

GETTING THERE:

Gateway Trailhead, 18333 N. Thompson Peak Rd. Scottsdale, 85255.

INFO & MAPS:

City of Scottsdale:

http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

McDowell Sonoran Conservancy:

http://www.mcdowellsonoran.org/trailhead/displayLocation/1#sthash.KzYAGVYY.dpbs

RENEGADE TRAIL

RENEGADE TRAIL

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Massive granite boulders flank Renegade Trail

In many ways, hiking is a renegade sport. Rebellious souls who answer the call of the wild grow impervious to heavy packs, sore feet, gross food, weather and self doubt. They pee in the forest and sleep on the ground while working around physical obstacles and an array of toxic plants and poisonous critters. To the hiker-at-heart, this is fun. So it's fitting that a new trail in Scottsdale's McDowell Sonoran Preserve pays homage to those who approach the trails unwashed, unshaven and living the dream. Renegade Trail is just one example of the preserve's route monikers that embrace our Western heritage with seasonings of humor and irony. Examples include, Wrangler, Rustler, Buckshot, Cow Poke and the crown jewel--Whiskey Bottle. Kudos to the preserve's naming committee which I imagine conjure these names over beers at a honky tonk.

A blind corner on Desperado Trail

Tucked into the preserve's northeast corner, Renegade Trail rumbles through a mix of wide open spaces and boulder-choked passages miles from established trailheads. The primary reward of hiking the extra miles to reach this route is escape from the crowds that tend to wander the curiosity-rich trails to the south. Quieter surroundings make for better opportunities to spot the Red-tailed hawks, ravens, coyotes and reptiles that disappear among the area's rocky crevasses when human traffic is high. Like all trails in the preserve, there's more than one way to incorporate the Renegade Trail into a day hike.

The "Michelin Man" 

Here's one circuit that takes you through a gnarly bike path and a scenic box canyon with swings around a "Michelin Man" cactus and a magnificent crested saguaro.

HIKE DIRECTIONS:

Big desert views on Renegade Trail

From the trailhead, follow the 136th Street Trail 2.2 miles north to the Renegade Trail junction. Follow Renegade 2.1 miles to where it ends at High Desert Trail. Backtrack 0.7 mile, veer right onto Desperado Trail and follow it 0.5 mile to Coyote Canyon Trail. Turn left, hike 0.5 mile and head right on Dove Valley Trail. Follow DVT 1 mile to 136th Street Trail, go right and hike 1.3 miles back to the trailhead.

LENGTH: 8.3 miles round trip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 2,614' - 2,849'

GETTING THERE:

Granite Mountain Trailhead

31402 N. 136th St. Scottsdale.

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Princess/Pima exit #36 and go 6.5 miles north on Pima to Dynamite Blvd./Rio Verde Dr. Turn right and continue 5.9 miles to 136^th St., turn left and go 1.8 miles to the trailhead on the left. Trailhead is open sunrise to sunset. No facilities.

MAP: http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/Assets/ScottsdaleAZ/Preserve/Preserve+North+Area+Trail+Map.pdf

DIABLO TRAILS

NORTH & SOUTH DIABLO TRAILS

McDowell Sonoran Preserve, Scottsdale.

North Diablo Trail 

A sign at the entrance to the Diablo Trails in McDowell Sonoran Preserve warns of steep rock slabs, vertical drops, uneven terrain and protruding rocks. Count me in! This recently revealed "forbidden zone" was developed as a technical bike circuit replete with slick stone traverses, boulder hops and swooping bends divided into a maze of loops with varying levels of difficulty. Located north of Cholla Mountain, the trails wind among granite outcroppings and rolling foothills with big sky views of Tonto National Forest peaks.

Entrance to Diablo Trails

Although it's clear that this compact mosh pit caters to bikers who want to test their mettle, hikers need not stay in their lane. The circuit is open to foot traffic as well and makes for an endlessly customizable trip for hikers who enjoy exploring semi-uncharted land. There are numerous ways to get to the site, but the quickest begins at the Brown's Ranch Trailhead with a 2.8-mile trek on connecting paths. Here's how: hike 1 mile north on Brown's Ranch Road and turn right onto Maverick Trail. Continue 0.8 mile to Cholla Mountain Loop, turn left and hike 0.7 mile to Stagecoach Trail. Follow Stagecoach 0.3 mile to the Diablo Trails entrance. Beyond the gate, the trails are not marked with mileages. I hiked around using The Divide Trail (Maricopa Trail) to connect the North and South systems for 3.4 miles, but I did not do all the side loops. A rider I ran into on the trails told me that this maze has been known to bikers for awhile, but it first appeared on official preserve maps released for Fall 2016, thus exposing its existence to the rest of us.

South Diablo Trail

LENGTH: Variable, but 9 miles as described here.

RATING: easy-moderate for hikers, difficult for bikes

ELEVATION: 2710' - 2969'

GETTING THERE:

South Diablo Trails

Brown's Ranch Trailhead:

30301 N. Alma School Road, Scottsdale.

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Pima/Princess exit 36, go 6.5 miles north on Pima to Dynamite, turn right and continue 2.7 miles to Alma School Road. Turn left and continue 1 mile to the trailhead. There are restrooms, water and maps at the trailhead. No fee.

INFO & MAPS:

http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

ANDREWS-KINSEY TRAIL

ANDREWS-KINSEY TRAIL

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Complex geological features are highlights of the hike

Opened in 2014, the Andrews-Kinsey Trail acts as a connector route between Scottsdale's McDowell Sonoran Preserve and adjacent Fountain Hills Preserve. The trail pays tribute to the efforts of Chet Andrews and Roy Kinsey who have given over 40 years of service to the McDowell Mountain Conservancy stewardship programs. The two-mile preserve section of the route runs along foothills overlooking a green valley bolstered by the distinctive profiles of Four Peaks, Mount Ord and Weaver's Needle. At the top of each hour, the Fountain Hills geyser can be seen from the high ridges spewing one of the tallest water spouts in the world. The mostly exposed trail begins across from a junction located beneath Sunrise Peak. Rolling out in a curvy single track, it clings to the edge of cactus cloaked slopes, rock escarpments and patches of cholla sprouting from clearings littered with glinting slabs of broken quartz. These beautiful specimens are just a tiny part of the complex geology of the surrounding terrain. Both the rocks underfoot and those visible on the horizon chronicle many cataclysmic chapters of earth's history. During high hiking season (October-April), stewards occasionally offer guided geology hikes and talks that give insight into the volcanism, faulting and erosion that continues to shape this stretch of basin and range topography. For a primer, check out the resources available on the Arizona Geological Survey website.

Overlooking Fountain Hills

LENGTH: 8.4 miles (as described here)

RATING: moderate-difficult

ELEVATION: 1,923'-2,962'

GETTING THERE:

Sunrise Trailhead, 12101 N. 145th Way, Scottsdale.

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, exit onto Shea Blvd. and go 5.8 east to 136th St. Turn left, go 0.4 mile north to Via Linda, turn right and continue 1.75 miles to the overflow/horse lot on the right or continue to the 2-mile point and the main trailhead on the left. Begin on the Sunrise Trail and hike 2.2 miles to the Andrews-Kinsey junction. From here, the trail goes 2 miles to the border with Fountain Hills Preserve, where you can continue on or return the way you came.

INFO: McDowell Sonoran Preserve, 480-312-7013

http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

MAP:

http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/Assets/Public+Website/preserve/Preserve+Trails+Map.pdf

GEOLOGY INFO: Arizona Geological Survey

http://repository.azgs.az.gov/sites/default/files/dlio/files/nid943/ofr-95-16_report_fountainhills.pdf

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COYOTE CANYON

COYOTE CANYON

McDowell Sonoran Preserve

Crested saguaro on Coyote Canyon Trail

The next phase of trail development in Scottsdale's McDowell Sonoran Preserve is underway. Repurposing of existing social paths and new construction in the far north corridor that stretches from Dove Valley Road to the border of Tonto National Forest will continue through 2016. Several fresh routes have already been opened including the Coyote Canyon Trail which is already becoming a hiker favorite because of its unique features. In addition to see-forever views of the Cave Creek

Mountains and Verde River Valley, the route has two signature attractions--- a granite-walled slot canyon and a gloriously gnarled crested saguaro. Since this trail is deep-baked into the heart of the preserve, the only way to get to it is by hiking along connecting routes.

Inside the mini box canyon

Until additional legal parking areas are established, the trail must be accessed from the Granite Mountain trailhead. Here's the most direct circuit. Follow the 136th Street Express 1.3 miles north and turn left onto the Dove Valley Trail. Hike 0.9 mile to the Coyote Canyon Trail junction veer left and trek 1.3 miles to where it ends at the Granite Mountain Loop Trail. From here, there are many options for your return route (download the preserve map for details) but the shortest way back to the trailhead is to turn turn left and go 0.5 mile to the Cow Poke Trail, follow it 0.6 mile back to Dove Mountain Trail and return the way you came.

LENGTH: 6.2 miles (as described here)

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 2,580' – 2,840'

Entrance to the box canyon

GETTING THERE:

Granite Mountain Trailhead, 31402 N. 136^th St. Scottsdale.

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Princess/Pima exit #36 and go 6.5 miles north on Pima to Dynamite Blvd./Rio Verde Dr.  Turn right and continue 5.9 miles to 136^th St., turn left and go 1.8 miles to the trailhead on the left. Trailhead is open sunrise to sunset.  No facilities.

INFO:

http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve
MAP:

http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/Assets/Public+Website/preserve/Northern+Preserve+Map.pdf

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