THOMPSON TRAIL #629

THOMPSON TRAIL #629

Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Parts of Thompson Trail survived the Wallow Fire

Trails with good bones have a way of reinventing themselves after a major wildfire. When the 2011 Wallow Fire---the largest in Arizona history-- roared through the woodlands around Mount Baldy and Big Lake, the nearby Thompson Trail #629 suffered heavy damage that will change its character as it recovers. Because of its good bones, the classic White Mountains route that follows the West Fork of the Black River still embodies everything great about high country trails—a creek with native fish, moss-laced trees, clump grass meadows and shadowy forests teeming with wildlife.

West Fork of the Black River flows along the trail

But the blaze altered its feel. The fire impacted the trail in patchwork style leaving some sections intact and others charred beyond recognition. The most noticeable change is the loss of shade-casting fir and spruce trees that had covered the canyon walls surrounding the stream. Where the fire burned hardest, the trail is now sunnier than its former self, allowing for the emergence of aspen trees that had been smothered by the conifers. Colonies of white-bark aspen sprouts are quickly claiming the space beneath blackened trunks and will eventually mature to replace the former darkly imposing canopy with a mottled sunshade.

Marsh marigold

In the six years since the fire, most of the ash and smoky residues have washed away revealing a scared but healing landscape.

The hike begins at the mouth of a gorge where the river meanders in oxbow curls. Within the first half-mile, two dams built as barriers to protect the native Apache trout population form still ponds and roaring waterfalls. Never straying far from the river’s edge, the trail passes through survivor forests and moist cienegas where rock piles and stepping stones mark the way through abundant shrubs, forbs and wetland wildflowers like marsh marigolds and prairie smoke. Interesting geology is another key feature of the hike---watch for an impressive volcanic dike on the west cliffs and tufts of red columbine growing from pock holes on basalt boulders. The trail ends where the 2.5-mile West Fork of the Black River Trail #628 begins with a knee-deep creek crossing. However, if you’d like to keep your feet dry, just turn back here and enjoy the trek in reverse.

Prairie Smoke

LENGTH: 6.5 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 8600’ – 8840’

GETTING THERE:

From Show Low, go 35 miles east on State Route 260 to State Route 273, just past milepost 377 and signed for Sunrise Ski Area.Turn right and continue 14 miles to Forest Road 116 (signed for Reservation Lake), turn right and go 4 miles to the trailhead on the right. Roads are paved except for Forest Road 116 which is sedan-friendly gravel.

INFO: Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/asnf/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=45147&actid=50

WEST FORK of the BLACK RIVER

WEST FORK of the BLACK RIVER Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest UPDATE: this trail was damaged by the WALLOW FIRE, June 8, 2011. Check with the forest service for updates.  The Black River snakes downhill from its headwaters in the White Mountains near the Arizona-New Mexico state line to its confluence with the Upper Salt River near Fort Apache. During its 90-mile course, the river runs through mostly remote and inaccessible terrain. Yet, West Fork Trail #628, which parallels one of its most scenic tributaries, is easy to find and gives a good sense of the river's life-giving power. The trail is mostly flat and follows a simple path above the rugged volcanic walls of the river canyon. Breathtaking views of massive basalt rock-falls and expansive prairies will have you reaching for your camera every few yards as the trails moves closer to the rim above the river gorge. Known as a great place to spot elk, you’ll need to hit the trail at dawn or dusk for the best chance to see these amazing vegetarians emerge from the cover of sub-alpine forests. In summer, the Wapiti (elk) seldom venture more than a half-mile from water and can usually be seen foraging along the banks of the West Fork of the Black River in the twilight hours. LENGTH: 5 miles round-trip RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 8,870 – 8,500 feet BEST SEASONS: April - November GETTING THERE: From downtown Eagar, go west on Highway 260 for 2.8 miles to the Highway 261 junction. Go left (south) on Hwy 261 and continue for 16.3 miles to Highway 273. Turn left and go roughly 3 miles to Forest Road 249E. Turn right and follow FR249E 2 miles to Forest Road 68. Take FR 68 another mile to the trailhead on the side of the road. ALTERNATE ACCESS: See Thompson Trail blog entry. INFORMATION: Springerville Ranger Station, 928-333-4372, fs.fed.us/r3/asnf

THOMPSON TRAIL

Thompson Trail #629 Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

A babbling mountain stream in a pristine alpine meadow makes a welcoming gateway to the Thompson Trail. Never straying far from the water’s edge, the trail parallels the upper reaches of the West Fork of the Black River. The shallow tributary twists and turns through a canyon where soaring basalt walls and massive rough-hewn boulder fields add dramatic flair to the otherwise tranquil landscape. From the trailhead, the path dips into the river gorge. There, lacy curtains of olive-colored moss sway from the conifer canopy above the first of several dams and rock barriers put in place along the stream as part of the Apache trout recovery program. Found only in the streams and lakes of the White Mountains, Arizona’s state fish nearly became extinct due to the damaging effects of invasive species and loss of habitat. Thankfully, the Endangered Species Conservation Act of 1969 initiated a series of co-operative efforts to preserve the rare, speckled fish. The recovery program has been so successful that the Apache trout is now on track to become one of the first indigenous fishes in the United States to be taken off the endangered list. Beyond the dam, the trail heads out through a boggy field that’s alive with waist-high grasses, wildflowers and shrubs. Marked only by hard-to-find stepping-stones, this segment of the trail is a challenge to follow. Yet, the spectacular scenery in this corridor acts as a convenient distraction—so, you’ll hardly notice the route-finding struggle and the fact that you’re sloshing through ankle-deep muck. After that, though, the trail dries out as its crawls through damp thickets of vegetation including hops, raspberries and a spectacular array of mushrooms. Near the end of the trail, at the junction with the West Fork Trail, the roar of swirling rapids marks the turnaround point for the hike. UPDATE: May 2012.  This trail is now open, however there's significant damage from the 2011 WALLOW FIRE. LENGTH: 6.5 miles round-trip RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 8540'-8830'  feet. GETTING THERE: From Eagar, go right (west) on Highway 260 for 2.8 miles to Highway 261. Turn left (south) on Highway 261 and continue for just over 16 miles to Highway 273. Turn right (north) onto Highway 273 and go another 2.1 miles to the turn off for Forest Road 116. Turn left (south) on FR-116 and go 3.5 miles to the signed trailhead on the right. The trail begins at a gate located a short distance down FR-116 on the left. No facilities. No fees.