Twisted Sister-Big Sister Loop

TWISTED SISTER-BIG SISTER LOOP

View of Red Mountain from Big Sister Trail

See this story on AZCentral: https://www.azcentral.com/story/travel/arizona/hiking/2024/12/13/hawes-trail-system-twisted-sister-trail/76888922007/

With its big bends, sharp declines, tight edges and hairpin turns, the Twisted Sister Trail embraces its bike-borne heritage.

Salt River Valley seen from Twisted Sister Trail

The rollercoaster-like trail is part of the Sonoran Desert (Hawes) Trail System in Tonto National Forest.  Located between the Salt River and Usery Mountains in Mesa, the system has several access points along Usery Pass Road and Bush Highway.

The Big Sister Trail is all about rocks.

 

Four Peaks viewed from the Twisted Sister Trail

The collection of looped singletrack paths began its evolution from from old livestock and mining trails with the development of the (unofficial) Hawes Trail in 1989. 

Vintage aircraft sometimes fly over the area

In 2005, the trail and several formerly unsanctioned connected routes were adopted into the Tonto National Forest system.   With the combined efforts of the forest service and the  Hawes Trail Alliance, a non-profit organization dedicated to the system’s maintenance, sustainability and future expansion of  the popular recreation hub now has over 60 miles of shared-use routes.

Red Mountain stands over the Salt River

When used as part of a loop hike, the Twisted Sister Trail makes for a moderate-rated hike with outstanding mountain vistas and peeks at the leafy corridor of the Salt River. 

Hawes Trails are well signed

The trek begins with a short walk on the Bush Lite West trail to connect with the Wild Horse Trail that’s part of the Valley-circling Maricopa Trail. 

The green corridor of the Salt River from Wild Horse Trail

At the 0.2-mile point, Twisted Sister spins off to the right and begins its undulating run through saguaro-studded desert in the foothills below the Usery Mountains.  Once through a couple of slippery downhills and wash crossings the route trudges uphill, revealing grander views at each turn.  The massive form of 2,832-foot Red Mountain (also known as S-wegi Do’ag in O’odham, Wi:kawatha in Yavapai and Mount McDowell, Fire Rock and Gunsight Butte) is a constant presence on the west side of the river on the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community at the confluence with the Verde River.  To the north, iconic Four Peaks hover over the mountains of Tonto National Forest and on the distant west horizon, Camelback Mountain rises above city haze. After just under a mile of steady but not-to-tough climbing, the trail meets a three-way junction.

Saguaros and boulders on Big Sister Trail

Mountains of Tonto National Forest on horizon

For a short loop hike, veer left onto the Big Sister Trail.  Whereas Twisted Sister was all about views, Big Sister is all about rocks.  Clinging to boulder-strewn slopes, the slim path weaves through impressive globs of granite, boulder ridges and natural stone sculptures.  Midway through the 1-mile return leg, the trail gives up the widest-angle views of the Salt River Valley and on lucky days, grazing wild horses and vintage aircraft from The Commemorative Air Force Aviation Museum can be spotted flying overhead. 

LENGTH: 3.6 miles

RATING: moderate for hiking, difficult for bikes

ELEVATION:  1,387 – 1,793 feet

GETTING THERE:

From U.S. 60 in Mesa, take the Power Road exit 188 and continue north (Power Road turns into Bush Highway) to the Wild Horse trailhead on the right between mile posts 23 and 24.

INFO:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/tonto

https://hawestrailalliance.com/

Pass Mountain Trail

PASS MOUNTAIN TRAIL

Goldfield Mtns & Four Peaks seen from Pass Mtn

In terms of sensory overload, the Pass Mountain Trail works sort of like an old-style 5-disk CD changer to deliver a cycle of ever-changing delights that once engaged, just keeps on spinning.

Approaching the east flanks of Pass Mountain

The 7.5-mile route that loops through both Usery Mountain Regional Park in Mesa and the urban-wildland interface of Tonto National Forest, packs in the hiking equivalents of mellow slow dance vibes, sultry tangos and pounding hip-hop rhythms. 

Mountain and valley vistas abound on Pass Mtn

An edgy section of the Pass Mtn Trail

Accessible by way of convenient trailheads in the park, the rocky single track blends low desert strolls, a carousel of vistas and just enough raw mountain exposure to serve up one of the most diverse, close-to-town hikes in the Metro Phoenix area.

A close-to-town hike with wilderness vistas

  Park rangers recommend taking on the loop from either the Wind Cave or Horse Staging trailhead in a clockwise rotation (begin by going left) for a longer but milder ascent to the hike’s scenic saddle.  For those who just want to get to the high point vista and then double back, that’s the ticket, however full-loop hikers should consider a counterclockwise (go right) approach.

Tangles of Sonoran Desert vegetation on Pass Mtn

It’s harder that way, but it gets the difficult climbing over quicker and eliminates the chore of negotiating a steep, slippery down climb on tired legs.

Pass Mtn viewed from the park side of the trail

  Heading right from the Wind Cave trailhead, the trail almost immediately exits the park boundary and enters Tonto National Forest. 

Lichens color the cliffs of Pass Mountain

The first relatively flat half-mile runs through classic desert vegetation and ruffled washes in the shadow of the pyramid-shaped Cat Peaks.  

A slickrock passage leads to a scenic saddle

Over the next mile-and-a-half, views of the Superstition Mountains rising above the town of Apache Junction command the eastern horizon as the trail makes a northward bend and a barely noticeable ascent toward on the mountain’s east face. 

Approaching the U-shaped saddle on Pass Mtn

Residual glimpses of rooftops and roads are soon swallowed up in the folds and drainage cuts of the mountain’s wild side. 

Stunning views from the Pass Mtn saddle

A valley flush with saguaros sits below the destination—a U-shaped pass visible on the north ridgeline.  The climb to get there isn’t too difficult until about a half-mile from the top where the route hangs on precipitous edges and a slickrock ledge for an appetizer of adrenaline before the trail emerges on the prize. 

The trail heads north from the saddle

Bam!  The wind-in-your-face jolt of stepping onto the 2,593-foot saddle is a jaw-dropping experience.  With a single bend in the trail, the vistas make an explosive transition from saguaros and suburbs to layers of mountains and river valleys.

A saguaro-cluttered valley precedes a steep climb

Mesquite and Palo verde trees shade the lower trail

 In the foreground, the blocky, colorfully-layered Goldfield Mountains rise above a scoured divide.  Behind them, are the iconic Four Peaks and rows of wilderness peaks stand over the Salt River Valley.  

Another view of the saddle approach

View of the saddle on the right ridgeline

Save for some minor drainage crosses and exposure the remainder of the trail is just a moderate trudge that hugs the mountain’s eastern flanks, unspooling views of the Usery Mountains and hazy peeks at the McDowell range near Scottsdale before it swings south and descends to the base of Pass Mountain for the final 2-mile walk back to the trailhead.

Superstition Mountain views

LENGTH: 7.5-mile loop

RATING: difficult

ELEVATION: 1,866 – 2,598 feet

GETTING THERE:

Usery Mountain Regional Park,

3939 N. Usery Pass Rd., Mesa.

From U.S. 60 in Mesa, take the Ellsworth Road exit 191. Go 6.7 miles north on Ellsworth (which will turn into Usery Pass Road) to the Usery Mountain Regional Park entrance on the right.  The tail may be accessed from the Wind Cave and Horse Staging Area trailheads.  There are restrooms at both trailheads.

FEE: There’s a $7 daily fee per vehicle payable at the park entrance. 

INFO: https://www.maricopacountyparks.net/usery-mountain-regional-park-um/

 

 

 

Wild Horse-Maricopa Trail Usery Mountains Segment

Wild Horse-Maricopa Trail Usery Mountains Segment

Cholla cacti are abundant along the Wild Horse Trail

The Salt River Recreation Area north of Mesa is a well-known destination for kayaking, tubing, fishing and picnicking. Although there are also some hiking trails near the water, riverside commotion, noisy crowds, entry fees and mounds of trash left behind by careless day trippers are buzz kills for trekkers in search of beauty and solitude. However, a nearby system of trails that overlooks the area offers peaceful wandering. 

Four Peaks as seen from the trail.

The Sonoran Desert (Hawes) Trail System in Tonto National Forest has more than 20 miles of interconnected paths located between Usery Pass Road and Bush Highway just south of the popular recreation area.  The northern-most route in the system is the Wild Horse Trail which is also part of the Valley-circumnavigating Maricopa Trail. As its name suggests, the trail passes through the domain of wild horses. 

Saguaro skeletons add interest to the hike

The elegant and sometimes controversial beasts can be spotted wading in the river, poking around in the riparian corridors and grazing in the surrounding desert foothills.  Regardless of where you might see them, it’s smart to keep your distance and enjoy the herds from afar.  The Wild Horse/Maricopa Trail escapes the din of the crowds and  is also high enough in the hills to afford inspiring vistas of the Salt River Valley, Four Peaks, Red Mountain and the Usery Mountains. Staring from the trailhead on Usery Pass Road, the trail heads out through wide washes and scoured gullies. You’ll cross an old “NRA pit” where rusting bullet casings, broken glass and other relics of target shooting activities remain in the sandy, buffered depression.

Overlooking the Salt River Valley

Shooting is no longer allowed there, but the sounds of gunfire can be heard from the Usery Mountain Shooting Range to the south.  Once through the pit area, the pop-pop of rifles and revolvers is muffled by a corrugated terrain of arroyos, ravines and gently rolling hills. Beyond the half-mile point, the hike takes on a surprisingly remote feel. The green band of the Salt River snakes through a chiseled landscape to the north, then arches south where it wends around Red Mountain in the Granite Reed Dam area.  The trail bears the hallmarks of its mountain biker origins. 

View of the Salt River near Bush Highway

Hairpin turns, swooping stretches and lots of swift-and-smooth roller coaster segments make for an ever-changing hike with surprises around every bend.  What little shade the trail has is provided by pockets of ironwood and Palo Verde trees that thrive in water-whittled ravines.  Another noteworthy botanical attraction here is a smattering of saguaro cacti skeletons in various stages of decomposition.  

A brief section with shade

Their woody cores with sponge-like patterns and haunting postures lie bare the internal structure of Arizona’s iconic plant.  The Wild Horse Trail ends at the 3.3-mile point but you can continue hiking on the Maricopa Trail for another 4.2 miles to Bush Highway for watery views and the best chance to see mustangs in the mist.

 Maricopa Trail and Wild Horse Trail follow the same route

LENGTH: 3.3 miles one way for Wild Horse Trail or 7.5 miles one way for Maricopa Trail section to Bush Hwy.

RATING: easy

ELEVATION:  1320' - 1880'

GETTING THERE:

From US 60 in Mesa, take the Ellsworth Road exit 192 and go 9 miles north (Ellsworth turns into Usery Pass Road) to the Wild Horse trailhead on the left. The trailhead is marked by a Maricopa Trail sign and a no-shooting post. There’s space for about 6 vehicles in the dirt turnout parking area.

Red Mountain 

Maricopa Trail:

https://www.maricopacountyparks.net/things-to-do/activity/maps/

Maricopa Trail & Park Foundation

http://mctpf.org/

Global Bikes Sonoran Desert (Hawes) Trail System Maps

http://www.globalbikesbikeshop.com/CURRENT_HAWES_MAP.pdf