INDIAN SPRINGS TRAIL # 627

INDIAN SPRINGS TRAIL # 627

Indian Springs Trail

Late summer in Arizona’s White Mountains is prime time for wildflower viewing. Cooler evenings take the edge off daytime heat and mornings break in a crisp dewy dampness that hints of autumn and nurtures a colorful spectacle of blooming plants. Fields of sunflowers dress roadside pastures making the annual bloom frenzy accessible to anybody willing to take a drive and pull off onto a random dirt road.

Apache Lobelia

But if you want deeper access to high altitude botanical treasures, lace up your hiking boots, strap on a backpack and hit the Indian Springs Trail near Big Lake.

Paintbrush and ferns

The 2011Wallow Fire roared across this classic trail of fir-spruce woodlands taking out some segments while leaving others mostly intact.

Richardson's Geranium

The upside to the loss of coniferous canopies is a sunlight-generated surge in wildflower proliferation. The best part about loop trails like this one is its mix of sun, shade, hydrology and micro climates that produce a wide variety of flowering plants.

The blossom bonanza begins right from the get go in a bud-dotted meadow. Here, sun-loving fleabane and harebells bob in mountain breezes. Beyond the trailhead, the path moves into a section of survivor pines and the filtered light domain of species like Richardson’s Geranium, Pleated Gentian and brilliant orange Paintbrush.

Indian Spring suffered damage from the 2011 Wallow Fire

A passage of wild red raspberries and ferns culminates at the junction for the optional half-mile spur trail that leads to Big Lake Lookout. Although the fire tower that stood on this rocky knob succumbed to the blaze, there’s an upside. Lake views are now easier to see through toasted stumps and resurgent shrubs.

Wild Raspberry shrubs and ferns

The next section of the hike passes through an old growth forest of fir, spruce and mature aspens. This darker, wetter space favors Canada violets, mushrooms and  Blue-eyed grass. At the 1-mile point, the reliable trickle of Spillman Spring creates a water garden of clovers and Seep Monkey Flowers that grow in bright clumps in and around the rustic wooden troughs set up to catch the flow. Fire damage is much more visible throughout the remainder of the hike. Thickets of aspen saplings account for much of the regrowth.

Seep Monkey Flowers

In these areas, look for Common mullein, Apache lobelia and Spurred Gentian.

Indian Spring appears as a mucky pond at the 2.5-mile point.

Red Raspberry

The swamp’s fringe of Rocky Mountain irises that bloom May thru June, are  long past prime by mid-summer.

Harebells

Beyond the loop’s halfway mark, marshy areas define the trail’s lowest elevation.  Runoff collects in soggy bogs and funnels into streamlets that feed the tributaries of the Black River. These swales are the habitat of False Hellebore, horse mint, New Mexican checker mallow, lupine and penstemones. At 5-miles there’s an option to add on the 6-mile round trip West Fork of the Black River Trail #628 before the route curves back to the start point. 

False Hellebore

Water Hemlock

LENGTH: 7.5-mile loop (8.5 miles with lookout side trip)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION:  8600’ - 9415'

Pleated Gentian

GETTING THERE:

From the Hon-Dah casino in Pinetop-Lakeside go 19.6 miles east on State Route 260 to State Route 273, just past milepost 377 and signed for Sunrise Ski Area. Go 19.2 miles south on SR 273 (turns into Forest Road 249 past the Big Lake turnoff) to Forest Road 249E, turn right and continue 0.4 mile to the trailhead on the left. Roads are paved up to FR 249E which is good gravel.

INFO & MAP: Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/asnf/recreation/recarea/?recid=45143&actid=24

THOMPSON TRAIL #629

THOMPSON TRAIL #629

Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Parts of Thompson Trail survived the Wallow Fire

Trails with good bones have a way of reinventing themselves after a major wildfire. When the 2011 Wallow Fire---the largest in Arizona history-- roared through the woodlands around Mount Baldy and Big Lake, the nearby Thompson Trail #629 suffered heavy damage that will change its character as it recovers. Because of its good bones, the classic White Mountains route that follows the West Fork of the Black River still embodies everything great about high country trails—a creek with native fish, moss-laced trees, clump grass meadows and shadowy forests teeming with wildlife.

West Fork of the Black River flows along the trail

But the blaze altered its feel. The fire impacted the trail in patchwork style leaving some sections intact and others charred beyond recognition. The most noticeable change is the loss of shade-casting fir and spruce trees that had covered the canyon walls surrounding the stream. Where the fire burned hardest, the trail is now sunnier than its former self, allowing for the emergence of aspen trees that had been smothered by the conifers. Colonies of white-bark aspen sprouts are quickly claiming the space beneath blackened trunks and will eventually mature to replace the former darkly imposing canopy with a mottled sunshade.

Marsh marigold

In the six years since the fire, most of the ash and smoky residues have washed away revealing a scared but healing landscape.

The hike begins at the mouth of a gorge where the river meanders in oxbow curls. Within the first half-mile, two dams built as barriers to protect the native Apache trout population form still ponds and roaring waterfalls. Never straying far from the river’s edge, the trail passes through survivor forests and moist cienegas where rock piles and stepping stones mark the way through abundant shrubs, forbs and wetland wildflowers like marsh marigolds and prairie smoke. Interesting geology is another key feature of the hike---watch for an impressive volcanic dike on the west cliffs and tufts of red columbine growing from pock holes on basalt boulders. The trail ends where the 2.5-mile West Fork of the Black River Trail #628 begins with a knee-deep creek crossing. However, if you’d like to keep your feet dry, just turn back here and enjoy the trek in reverse.

Prairie Smoke

LENGTH: 6.5 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 8600’ – 8840’

GETTING THERE:

From Show Low, go 35 miles east on State Route 260 to State Route 273, just past milepost 377 and signed for Sunrise Ski Area.Turn right and continue 14 miles to Forest Road 116 (signed for Reservation Lake), turn right and go 4 miles to the trailhead on the right. Roads are paved except for Forest Road 116 which is sedan-friendly gravel.

INFO: Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/asnf/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=45147&actid=50

WEST FORK of the BLACK RIVER

WEST FORK of the BLACK RIVER Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest UPDATE: this trail was damaged by the WALLOW FIRE, June 8, 2011. Check with the forest service for updates.  The Black River snakes downhill from its headwaters in the White Mountains near the Arizona-New Mexico state line to its confluence with the Upper Salt River near Fort Apache. During its 90-mile course, the river runs through mostly remote and inaccessible terrain. Yet, West Fork Trail #628, which parallels one of its most scenic tributaries, is easy to find and gives a good sense of the river's life-giving power. The trail is mostly flat and follows a simple path above the rugged volcanic walls of the river canyon. Breathtaking views of massive basalt rock-falls and expansive prairies will have you reaching for your camera every few yards as the trails moves closer to the rim above the river gorge. Known as a great place to spot elk, you’ll need to hit the trail at dawn or dusk for the best chance to see these amazing vegetarians emerge from the cover of sub-alpine forests. In summer, the Wapiti (elk) seldom venture more than a half-mile from water and can usually be seen foraging along the banks of the West Fork of the Black River in the twilight hours. LENGTH: 5 miles round-trip RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 8,870 – 8,500 feet BEST SEASONS: April - November GETTING THERE: From downtown Eagar, go west on Highway 260 for 2.8 miles to the Highway 261 junction. Go left (south) on Hwy 261 and continue for 16.3 miles to Highway 273. Turn left and go roughly 3 miles to Forest Road 249E. Turn right and follow FR249E 2 miles to Forest Road 68. Take FR 68 another mile to the trailhead on the side of the road. ALTERNATE ACCESS: See Thompson Trail blog entry. INFORMATION: Springerville Ranger Station, 928-333-4372, fs.fed.us/r3/asnf