Soldier Mesa

A FLIGHTY FOREST FROLIC

Soldier Mesa Tank

There are a lot of birds on Soldier Mesa. Bluejays, hawks, vultures, finches, hummingbirds, woodpeckers and ravens. Lots and lots of ravens. 

A wild turkey feather at Soldier Mesa Tank

For whatever the reason—its proximity above the course of Fossil Creek, a secluded water source or its lightly used location on the Mogollon Rim—the feathered hordes like it here.

Winged buckwheat blooms July - September

Gamble oaks shade FR9362K

It’s not necessary to be an expert bird watcher to enjoy the popular hobby. With the aid of technology (see links below) and a pair of binoculars, anybody can play wanna-be ornithologist and feather detective. 

It is illegal to collect most wild bird feathers

But before heading out on a bird-spotting expedition, it’s important to know the rules. First and foremost, it is illegal to collect or possess feathers or any other parts from almost all native wild birds in Arizona. The Federal  Migratory Bird Treaty Act protects more than 800 species including most of what flies overhead in Arizona.

Soldier Mesa Tank is easy to miss

The law also means you may not mess with the birds, their eggs, nests, habitats or feathers. This includes anything you may find on the ground.

Watch for raptors over the juniper meadows

A complete set of rules, guidelines and limited hunting exceptions may be found on the U.S Fish & Wildlife Service website. Of course, if you’re already observing the 7 Principles of Leave No Trace outdoor ethics, that pretty much covers it. 

Junction of FR9362K and FR9365K

A mixed bag of woodland types might be a contributor to the large number of species that call Soldier Mesa home.  Dense Ponderosa pine forests, Gamble oak patches, sunny stretches dominated by junipers, agaves and wildflowers and the mucky waters of Soldier Mesa Tank make for prime habitat opportunities.

White prairie aster blooms July - October

It’s also a tidy little hiking destination for wandering and wondering. Forest Road 9362K serves as the hiking route on Soldier Mesa. From the gated entrance on State Route 260, the rough dirt road makes an immediate duck into tree cover of Coconino National Forest. 

FR9362K ends overlooking Horsetank Wash

A short distance in, white chevron tree markers denote where the road crosses the historic General Crook Trail. Woodpeckers appear to favor the tall pines and are easily identified by their bright red caps and noisy tapping. 

White chevrons indicate the Gen. Crook Trail

Continue following FR9362K as it makes a barely discernible downhill crawl. In places, the road splits and rejoins but it's never too difficult to navigate through oak woodlands that attract wild turkey and sparrows. At the half-mile point, the road meets a junction with FR 9365K.

FR9362K is rough and rocky

Veer right to stay on FR9362K.  The next stretch of road moves through patches of open meadow dotted with yucca and cacti.  Hummers, finches and jays flit among juniper branches. At 0.8-mile, Soldier Mesa Tank comes into view off to the right. It’s easy to miss, so stay alert and you might see hawks and ravens circling above the tiny pool.

Agaves thrive among Ponderosa pines

Beyond the tank, the road degrades into a rocky, cracked-earth path, ever narrowing until it fades into scrub and boulders above Horsetank Wash at the far northeast boundary of Fossil Creek Wilderness.

Trailhead on State Route 260

LENGTH: 3 miles round trip (out-and-back hike)

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 6,636 - 6,789 feet (338 feet of accumulated elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

From Interstate 17 in Camp Verde, take the State Route 260 exit and go 28 miles east (toward Payson) to Forest Road 9362K on the right just past milepost 246. There’s parking behind the gate.

U.S Fish & Wildlife Service

https://www.fws.gov/law/migratory-bird-treaty-act-1918

Feather Identification Tool

https://www.fws.gov/lab/featheratlas/

Merlin Bird ID

https://merlin.allaboutbirds.org/

Leave No Trace

https://lnt.org/why/7-principles/

 

Plateau Potato Lake

PLATEAU POTATO LAKE

Potato Lake Tank on Anderson Mesa

Roughly thirty minutes south of the summer hiking magnet of Flagstaff, is a quieter but no less attractive trekking destination.

The basin of Potato Lake on Anderson Mesa

The Plateau Lakes on Anderson Mesa offer respite from crowds in an under appreciated landscape replete with quirky geological features.

Forest Road 82D near Als Lake

The Plateau Lakes Region in Coconino National Forest is anchored by Mormon Lake—Arizona’s largest natural lake.

Texas Frog Fruit blooms April - November

During years with lots of precipitation, the lake can span an area up to 12 square miles. 

View of Peaks from FR9484D

But that’s the exception, not the norm.  Mostly, it’s a scenic yet mucky wetland of puddles and swales that still manages to attract wildlife and support a fringe of water-loving vegetation.

Forest Road 82D near Als Lake

It’s also the mother ship per se for dozens of smaller natural water pockets, wildlife waterholes and created lakes that orbit its massive basin.

Geologists describe the Plateau Lakes as naturally occurring bowl-like depressions formed by various tectonic events that resulted in slumps and sinkhole features in the volcanic landscape.

Field Bindweed blooms May - September

Junction FR82D and FR9484D

Spread across the flatland like pock-marks or lunar craters, some are no larger than a kiddy pool while others rival football stadium proportions. Like Mormon Lake these hollows vacillate between weedy swamps and shallow pools that evaporate entirely in times of drought leaving behind crop-circle-like impressions. 

Entrance to Potato Lake

Hiking to the Plateau Lakes can be done by hopping on the Arizona National Scenic Trail Passages 29 and 30 which skirt by several, or by using a network of rough dirt roads that traverse the mesa. 

Typical scene on FR9494D

One interesting destination is Potato Lake.  Don’t be confused, though. This is a different animal from the watery, crawdad infested “solution depression” (geology speak for a kind of sinkhole) Potato Lake off Forest Road 300 (Rim Road) on the Mogollon Rim near the community of Pine. (Read the POTATO LAKE story on this blog).

The easy hike to "Plateau Potato Lake” uses three easy-to-navigate dirt roads. Beginning on Forest Road 9117F, the trek heads east for 0.4-mile to where it meets the fenced edge of Post Lake—another Plateau Lake. 

Potato Lake Tank

A storm brews over Als Lake

The rocky two track then bends north onto the mesa and merges into (unsigned) Forest Road 82D. 

Anderson Mesa is a mostly flat, windswept expanse dotted with junipers and intermittent plots of Ponderosa pines.

San Francisco Peaks seen from FR82D

The airy expanse is criss-crossed with draws and canyons that disrupt exposed grasslands favored by pronghorn.  The mesa is surrounded by volcanic mountains that churn up weather, which means it’s almost always windy here. 

Post Lake

At the 1.3-mile point, views of  8,463-foot Mormon Mountain to the west and 12,633-foot San Francisco Mountain north of Flagstaff stand out over Als Lake, another Plateau Lake with hit-or-miss water levels. It’s worth mentioning that even when bone dry, the footprint of these ephemeral lakes are often lush with wildflowers and knee-high grasses.

Storm over Potato Lake Road

Past the lake, the road meanders through fragrant woodlands dominated by junipers until it comes to a fork where FR9484D spins off to the right. The road, which is also known as Potato Lake Road is signed, but the numbers are barely legible. At this juncture, FR82D continues a half-mile north to one of the most well-known Plateau lakes—Deep Lake.

It’s worth a side trip on the way back. (Check out the DEEP LAKE story on this blog).  FR9484D continues through more juniper-shaded terrain with chunks of basalt strewn about the rusty soils.  The route meets a junction with FR9119W at 2.8 miles. FR9119W heads left and circles Potato Lake, but this trek continues straight ahead on FR9484D.  After another 0.2-mile, a stand of thick greenery of pines, firs and oaks herald the entry to Potato Lake.

Passing through an aboreal archway, the road opens up to views of the sprawling lake. In early June 2026, the lake was dry, but adjacent Potato Lake Tank contained a basin of residual muddy water.  Built into the south edge of the lake with an earthen dam, the margins of tiny waterhole showed signs of wildlife activity.  Elk, deer, waterfowl, raccoon and coyote tracks sunk deep into the moist muck signal it’s time to turn the hike around and leave the precious water to the winged and furry forest residents. 

trailhead

LENGTH: 6 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 7,049 - 7,127 feet (447 feet of accumulated elevation change) 

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff go 17 miles south on Lake Mary Road (County Road 3) to Forest Road 82E on the left just past milepost 327 which is signed for Ashurst Lake. Follow FR 82E 1.7 miles to FR 9117F on the left. A faded sign marks the road.  There’s parking in dirt pullouts. 

Forest Road 82E is washboard gravel suitable for all vehicles. High clearance is recommended on FR 9117F.  No facilities or fees. 

Pine Loop

PINE LOOP

Mazatzal Mountains from Lower Pineview Trail

When asked what passage of the Arizona National Scenic Trail is the “best” one, trail users are quick to state that it’s the one you’re currently on. 

Pine Loop uses AZT Highline Passage 26

For those who have trekked the entire 800+-mile non-motorized route that runs from the Mexico border to Utah, the oft repeated refrain precisely sums up the experience.

Highline/Arizona Trail

Traveling south to north, the trail’s 43 Passages move through wildly diverse terrains. 

Highline/Arizona Trail

Deserts, mountains, riparian corridors, canyons, chaparral, grasslands, valleys, alpine meadows and coniferous forests. So, it’s easy to understand why naming a favorite is an impossible ask.

Mogollon Rim from Lower Pineview Trail

 

But for hikers, bikers and equestrians looking to sample the trail without committing to days-long backcountry hauls, a special bias must be directed at the Highline Passage 26.

Lower Pineview Trail

As the last Passage in the Central Arizona zone, in Tonto National Forest, the 23.9-mile single track marks the transition from arid desert mountains to Arizona’s woodsy high country.

Community of Pine below the trail

It’s also one of the more approachable Passages with several trailheads, connecting trails and access points.  Treatable water is available at several springs and creeks along the way.

Arizona Trail/Pineview junction

A popular family-friendly day hike option that’s doable spring through fall is the Pine Loop. Starting at the Pine trailhead north of Payson, the loop uses the Arizona Trail/Highline, Pineview, Lower Pineview and Pine Canyon trails.

Pine Canyon Trail

The well-signed hike starts out on the Arizona Trail, which shares space with the rerouted Highline Trail. This lower elevation side of the Passage features an interesting hybrid vegetation zone where cacti, yucca and agaves make their last stands as the dominant plants among oaks, junipers and Ponderosa pines.

Pine Canyon Trail

  The loop follows the AZT/Highline Trail for one mile to the Pineview, Lower Pineview junction.  Nearby, a large information kiosk marks the spot.  This is where the loop departs the AZT and heads west on the Lower Pineview Trail. (For a longer option, go north on the Pineview Trail and follow the signs.

The Pine Loop is well signed

This adds roughly a half-mile and 200 feet of elevation to the loop). 

Pineview Trail

Lower Pineview serves up some great views of the Mazatzal Mountains to the south, the craggy cliffs leading up to the 700-foot escarpments of the Mogollon Rim and glimpses of the community of Pine.

Map of the loop

At the 1.5-mile point, the loop swerves left onto the Pineview Trail that hangs on rolling foothills studded with junipers and scrub oaks. After less than a half-mile, the loop picks up the Pine Canyon Trail heading south.  Now, the route is shaded in tall pines as it winds through gullies and drainages before ending back at the AZT/Highline Trail where the loop concludes with a backtrack to the trailhead.

Pine Trailhead 

While short in length and only mildly challenging, this scenic little loop gives a concise tour of a major shift point on the Arizona Trail and might also tempt those just sticking their toes into the world-class trail to explore deeper and maybe discover their own “best” parts. 

LENGTH: 2.9 mile loop

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 5,362 - 5,692 feet (525 feet of accumulated elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

From Payson, drive 12.6 miles north on State Route 87 to the turnoff for the Pine Trailhead on the right. Roads are paved all the way.  There’s a restroom but no other facilities. Restaurants and services are available a short drive up SR87 in the community of Pine. 

INFO: Arizona Trail Association
https://aztrail.org/explore/passages/passage-26-highline/

+-mile

Rock Bottom Road

ROCK BOTTOM ROAD

Schroeder Tank

Forest Road 9392E appears to go nowhere.  It’s only vaguely on the Coconino National Forest maps and, on the ground, there are no signs to provide clues. While this is pretty common for the many miles of 4x4 backroads on forest lands, the diffuse mystery about roads that weave through Willow Valley is what makes them  particularly inviting for hikers.

Gate on FR93B near Schroeder Tank

That’s because they have a distinct “soft wild” air about them—out there but with their rough edges tamed by weedy two tracks that seem to always intersect with primary or secondary, signed routes.

Where Forest Road 9369H heads downhill

 

Pine shaded and just far enough from the pavement for a secluded high country escape, Willow Valley on the Mogollon Rim south of the community of Happy Jack, is rife with primitive camp sites and points-of-interest.

Forest Road 9369H

While most of the dirt roads are open to motorized travel, exploring on foot is the best way to savor details that make this area special. 

Yellow Salsify bloom June - September

The landscape is a mass of scattered oak glens, sunny meadows and forests of soaring Ponderosa pines punctuated with corrals and water tanks that attract wildlife and grazing domestic cattle.

Entry gate for FR9369H and FR9392E

Resident deer, wild turkeys, elk and Great blue herons are easy to spot while traveling quietly among the trees. One exploratory hike to try is a two-pronged trek using enigmatic FR9392E and signed routes FR93B and FR 9369H. 

Forest Road 9392E

The trek starts at a dirt pullout where a barely legible road sign across from the Bar D corral complex marks FR93B. Heading north on FR93B, the rocky, rutted road passes through pine woodlands to where it meets Schroeder Tank at the 0.3-mile point.

Kaibab pussytoes bloom May - July

The oblong created water hole sits off to the right within a ring of Gamble oaks and fields of Rocky Mountain irises. 

The split for FR9369H and FR9392E

To get to the water, pass a  barbed wire gate (close it and all gates behind you) and follow a faint trail to the entry archway.  Stealthy visitors might spy a Great blue heron, ducks or tiny birds diving for insects swarming over the tank’s surface. 

Rock Bottom Tank

Beyond the tank, at the 0.7-mile point, another wire gate on the right marks the entrance to FR9369H and 9392E.

Rock Bottom Tank

True to the mystery theme of this hike, it’s just one road and  it’s not signed.

Sego lilies bloom May - July

About 0.2-mile beyond the gate, the road splits.  Lo and behold, there’s a sign for FR9369H, which swerves left.  The unsigned spur on the right is 9392E.  This hike uses both roads as out-and-backs. 

Entry to Schroeder Tank

Schroeder Tank

I chose to follow 9392E first. It’s an easy half mile walk to a faint road heading off to the left where the berm of an earthen dam is visible a few yards in. 

Rocky Mountain iris bloom May - September

This is Rock Bottom Tank, another water catchment and wildlife magnet. Surrounded by a leafy fringe, the reedy pond reflects open sky and fosters wildflowers clinging to its grassy banks.  A rough hewn hunter blind on the berm straddles an arc of pines.  FR9392E, which I’ve dubbed Rock Bottom Road, continues on for another 0.3-mile, dwindling into nowhere near a fence line. (My GPS indicated that it eventually connects back to FR93B, but, I didn’t see where).  Backtracking to the signed FR9369H junction, the mile-long hike on the H road is pretty but unremarkable up to where it passes yet another gate and begins a 200-foot drop to, well, as advertised—nowhere.

Chaparral fleabane bloom May - October

But someplace not on the maps. That is, the junction with FR93B—-the road you came in on. Head left to make a loop that adds 2 miles to the hike, or just backtrack like I did. Either way, simple hikes like this one muddle the concept and appeal of nowhere. Depending on how you perceive it, nowhere can be anywhere. And everything. It’s all in the mindset. 

trailhead

LENGTH: 6.4 miles for the two-part hike as described here

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 6,876 - 7,075 feet (1,102 feet of accumulated elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, go 42 miles south on Lake Mary Road (County Road 3) to Forest Road 93 on the left past milepost 302 and signed for Willow Valley Dam. Follow FR93 0.8-mile to Forest Road 93B on the left across from a corral complex. There’s a faded road sign next to a Ponderosa pine. Park in the pullouts along the road.  FR93 is maintained dirt suitable for most vehicles up to the trailhead. There are dispersed campsites along FR93 but no fees or facilities.