LAVA’S EDGE
TRAIL
Sunset Crater
Volcano National Monument.
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| Sunset Crater seen from Lava's Edge Trail |
Volcanoes are one
of earth’s most powerful and mesmerizing geological features. Simultaneously beautiful and terrifying, they can hibernate for years before rumbling
back to life spewing fiery ash clouds and fountains of molten rock that create
indescribable paths of destruction.
Recent eruptions of Hawaii’s Kilauea and Guatemala’s Fuego volcanoes
remind us of the landscape-altering forces inherent in these natural phenomena.
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| O'Leary Peak lava dome towers over the Bonito Lava Flow |
Although Arizona
is more commonly associated with saguaro-studded deserts, gaping chasms and red
rock formations, much of the state’s landscape is a product of volcanism. The San Francisco Volcanic Field north of
Flagstaff is home to more than 600 extinct volcanoes that sprawl over the edge
of the Colorado Plateau from Williams to the Little Colorado River. Many familiar hiking trails climb to the
summits of these ancient and eroded snuffed smokers. Humphreys Peak, Kendrick Peak, Benham and
O’Leary Peak are just a few examples.
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| San Francisco Mountain is an extinct stratovolcano |
Views from the tops of these classic trails showcase a landscape
dotted with cinder cones, lava domes and expansive lava flows that melt into
the colorful flatlands of the Painted Desert and the edge of the Grand
Canyon. To complement the impressive
highpoint overviews and get a close look at the inner workings of a young
volcano, take a hike on the Lava’s Edge Trail.
The 3.4-mile roundtrip trail is one of several within Sunset Crater
Volcano National Monument that explore ground-level volcanic features. The moderate-rated route shoveled out of crunchy
cinders and soft black sand traces a ragged hem of a petrified magma skirt. Geologists date the eruptive phase of Sunset
Crater to between the years 1040 and 1100 which means the volcano’s birth was
undoubtedly witnessed by the Hopi and Zuni people who lived nearby.
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| Aspens sprout from creases in the inky basalt |
The 1000-foot cinder cone blew ash and debris for
miles around before liquid rock oozed from its western base forming the Bonito
Lava Flow. Lava’s Edge Trail wanders
through the hardened remains of the flow.
The free-flowing aa—jagged basaltic lava—cooled into bizarre razor-edged
slabs, contorted pillars, splatter cones, crusty walls and arched squeeze ups. The acres of raw, blocky basalt look as fresh
as the flows shown spilling from Kilauea on the nightly news.
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| The hike is on rough cinders and black sand |
Over the past
900 years, plant life has struggled to take hold in the steely ground. Still, a stronghold of hearty Ponderosa
pines, pinions, skunk bush and aspens have taken root in crevasses where water
and organic materials provide hospitable conditions along the route. In addition to the other worldly lava field
and its parent 8039-foot cinder cone, the trail is flanked by two other types
of volcanoes. To the north of the trail,
the double-humped form of O’Leary Peak (a lava dome volcano) soars to 8,916
feet while to the west, the bald peaks of San Francisco Mountain (a
stratovolcano) top out at 12,633 feet.
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| A Ponderosa pine frames the San Francisco Peaks |
To better understand the science behind the trail’s
many points of interest, stop by the visitor center to view informative videos
and displays or take part in a ranger talk.
As quiet and peaceful as the dormant volcanic highlands might appear;
don’t be fooled.
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| Pines shade the black sand path |
The fireworks aren’t over yet.
The San Francisco
Volcanic Field is still considered to be active, with the next event predicted
to happen to the east of Sunset Crater. Whether
the earth resumes its fire show in the coming minutes or not for a million
years, recent events in Hawaii have given us a vivid preview of what it might
look like.
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| Rough aa lava cooled into bizarre sculptures |
LENGTH: 3.4
miles roundtrip
RATING: moderate
ELEVATION: 6920 - 6960 feet
GETTING THERE:
From the Interstate17/40 junction in Flagstaff go east on
I-40 east to the U.S. 89 north exit. Continue north on US89 to the turn
off for Sunset Crater (FR545), located just past milepost 430. Turn right
and follow the signs 2 miles to the park entrance. From the fee station,
continue 1.3 miles to the signed trailhead on the left.
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| Sunset Crater and the Bonito Lava Flow |
FEE: Park entry
fee is good for 7 days of exploring within both Sunset Crater Volcano and
Wupatki National Monuments. See website for fee schedule, free days and
accepted passes.
INFO & MAPS:
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