Marginalized mountain gets some love

O'LEARY PEAK

Flagstaff

Destination: O'Leary Peak in background

Hiding in plain sight between Sunset Crater National Monument and Arizona's loftiest mountain is O'Leary Peak--- a dormant lava dome volcano with a character unlike its geological neighbors.  Normally, this trail sees only little-to-moderate hiking traffic, but this week was different.  First, the annual Arizona Highways Summer Hiking Guide hit newsstands and features O'Leary as one of its favorite destinations (nice pick, Robert!). And, I selected this trail for my contribution to the Grape-Nuts Summit Sampler event.  So, good  'ol O'Leary is suddenly getting the recognition it deserves. What turns hikers off about this route is that it's on a closed gravel road (no, you cannot drive to the summit unless you're with the forest service) all the way to the top.  However, it's a big mistake to discount this hike because of that.  In fact, because this no-route-finding-no-worries trail eliminates the need for maps and GPS, hikers are freed up for unrestricted gawking at the surrounding San Francisco Volcanic Field.  It’s helpful to dust off your Geology 101 textbook prior to hitting this trail.  That's because you'll be treated to a mélange of volcanic formations included lava flows, cinder cones, a strato volcano (San Francisco Mountain/Humphreys Peak) and of course O'Leary itself which is comprised of mostly an igneous rock called dacite. The climb is an unmitigated haul up the mountain's south face.  Switchbacks transition from wide and gradual to short and abrupt near the summit.  The effort pays off though with birds eye views of Sunset Crater National Monument that could otherwise only be seen by helicopter.  As the trail reaches its high point, there are terrific views of the Painted Desert, Grand Canyon and the more than 600 volcanoes that populate the southern edge of the Colorado Plateau. On the summit, an official elevation sign beneath a fire tower makes for the perfect way to commemorate the climb with photos.  The tower is not ordinarily open to visitors, however on our visit, the forest service worker invited us up--and we, of course, handed her some Grape-Nuts Fit samples!

Taking a break on the summit

LENGTH: 10 miles roundtrip

RATING: difficult

ELEVATION: 6956' - 8916'

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go north on I-17 to the junction with I-40 just south of Flagstaff.

Head east (right) on I-40 and continue to the junction for AZ89 NORTH at exit 201.

Follow AZ89 north to the entrance for Sunset Crater at milepost 430.3.

Turn right onto Sunset Crater Road (FR545) and go 1.7 miles to FR545A, which is signed for O’Leary Group Campground. Turn left on FR545A and go 0.25 mile to the parking area on the right near the gate for O’Leary Lookout.

View of San Francisco Peaks from the trail

INFO: Flagstaff Ranger District, Coconino National Forest, 928-526-0866

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=55146&actid=50

MORE PHOTOS:

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O'LEARY PEAK

O’LEARY LOOKOUT TRAIL Coconino National Forest A “middle child”, O’Leary Peak often plays second fiddle to its more famous siblings—the San Francisco Peaks and Sunset Crater. In comparison to the rival peaks, O’Leary is truly middling in height, age and relative location. The 250,000-year-old lava dome volcano rises to an impressive 8,916 feet and although it lacks the star quality that draws hordes of tourists and hikers to the other two peaks, O’Leary is anything but the ugly step sister. The trail up O’Leary Peak is just a 4x4 road that’s still used by forest service workers to get to the fire lookout on the summit. The hike begins by flanking a thick, inky-black lava flow with views of the distinctive rust-colored slopes of Sunset Crater in the distance. The lower path is mostly made of black and red cinders that crunch under foot. The first 3 miles are easy going, gaining elevation gradually, but the grunt work begins where the road meets the mountain and becomes much steeper. Crystalline cliffs of dacite, the volcanic rock that pushed up from the earth’s core to build O’Leary Peak, line the trail that’s little more than a narrow cut in the mountainside. On the top, there are amazing aerial views of Sunset Crater and the Bonito Lava Flow. To the north, the Painted Desert shimmers in the haze and to the west; Arizona’s grandest peaks get up close and personal. While taking in the 360-degree smorgasbord of sights, you’ll wonder why all the little cars on the roads below are zooming right past O’Leary Peak. LENGTH: 10 miles round trip RATING: Moderate ELEVATION: 6,930 – 8,916 feet GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take I-17 North to Flagstaff. In Flagstaff, take I-40 east and then connect to Highway 89 north. Continue north on Highway 89 to the signed exit for Sunset Crater National Monument (FR 545) and turn right. Continue for less than a mile and then turn left at the “O’Leary Group Campground” sign onto FR 545A. Drive a short distance past the fee area campground to the gate and signed trailhead for “O’Leary Lookout”. There are restrooms and running water at the campground. The dirt roads are accessible by sedan.