GREENS PEAK: Hike to the High Point of the Springerville Volcanic Field

GREENS PEAK

The beastly profile of Greens Peak near Greer.

From a distance, the lopsided hump of Greens Peak with its sparsely vegetated south face and top fringe of conifers resembles the shaggy profile of an African wildebeest.

Escudilla Mountain (horizon on right) seen from Greens Pk.

The funny-looking hill sits a few miles north of State Route 260 near the town of Greer, between the lofty peaks of eastern Arizona’s White Mountains and the colorful badlands of the Petrified Forest National Park and offers a unique vantage point in the ecoregion between alpine forests and high-desert plains.

Looking toward Springerville from Greens Peak

Mima mounds dot the meadows around Greens Peak

The hike climbs to the top of a cinder cone volcano

Fleabane grow in dense clumps along the route

Aspens thrive on the north face of Greens Peak

The 10,134-foot extinct cinder cone volcano is the highest point of the Springerville Volcanic Field-- a swath of hundreds of diverse geological wonders that runs roughly between the towns of McNary and Alpine. Surrounded by miles of open rangeland, meandering creeks and sweet-smelling fir-spruce woodlands, the area is also home to dozens of easy-to-explore volcanic elements and glacial imprints. For an in-depth but approachable read about this fascinating corner of Arizona, check out A Guide to the Geology of the White Mountains and the Springerville Volcanic Field, Arizona by John V. Bezy and Arthur S. Trevena. It’s available as a free download on the Arizona Geological Survey website. 

Hundreds of geological features are visible from Greens Pk

The book describes several field trips to some of the area’s most interesting peculiarities. The keynote trip is a hike up to Greens Peak.  

Summit of Greens Peak has great views in all directions

With its beastly appearance and half bald, half forested slopes, the mountain is a natural draw for curious visitors in search of an off-the-radar summit hike with primo views. Although it’s short in length and ascends on a gradual, undulating grade, the trek is not for the faint-of-heart. It begins at over 9,000 feet in elevation where thin air will tax the lungs of unacclimated Valley dwellers. If you’re not up to the 600-foot haul to the summit, there are plenty of curiosities to explore around the mountain’s base including the mima (pronounced may-muh) mounds.

Sunrise ski area and Fence Tank seen from Greens Peak

One of the enduring mysteries of White Mountain geology, is the origin of the mounds.

Harebells bloom in alpine meadows through September

Rodents, imbedded root systems and creatures from outer space all have been credited with making these roundish, lumps of gravel that average 2 feet high in the breezy meadows below the peak.

Summit marker on 10,134-foot Greens Peak

The prevailing theory is that these odd lumps are remnants of a glacial ice field that receded some 25,000 years ago leaving behind a landscape that smacks more of Iceland than Arizona.   

A pollinator alights on a Western yarrow plant.

Don’t be intimidated by the hill’s steep, stark appearance. Following an edge-hugging road that makes a 180-degree swing along the mountain’s west and south flanks, the steady uphill slog is easier than it looks.  Along the lung-pumping climb, vista points appear around every kink in the road.

North view from the summit of Greens Peak

Look for surrounding hike hubs like Pole Knoll, Mount Baldy (11,420 feet) and the trails around Big Lake. Near the top, the distinctive profile of Escudilla Mountain (10,912 feet) that sits near the New Mexico border shows a frenzy of aspen resurgence in the scar of the 2011Wallow Fire.  On the summit, a fire lookout and communication towers rise above the coniferous woodlands that cover the mountain’s northeast flanks.

Greens Peak seen from nearby Fence Tank corral.

To the south, the web-like patterns of ski runs at Sunrise Park Resort near Greer stand out above a landscape of misshapen volcanic bluffs, mounds and eroded cones.

Cattle graze in meadows at the base of the mountain.

The mountain’s breezy high-elevation edges are also ideal for birdwatching or spotting herds of pronghorn, elk and ubiquitous cattle roaming among lumpy grasslands and watering holes below.

A fire lookout and communication towers on the summit

LENGTH: 2 or 4 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 9,520 – 10,134 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Pinetop-Lakeside, travel east on State Route 260 (toward McNary).  Continue to roughly 3 miles past State Route 273 to Forest Road 117 near milepost 380 on the left (about a mile past the Railroad Grade trailhead).  Follow FR117 north for 3 miles to a "Y" junction at Forest Road 61 where a sign reads “Greens Peak 2 miles”. You can park here for a 4-mile roundtrip hike or veer left and drive another mile to the next “Y” intersection at FR61/61C

for a 2-mile hike.  Roads are maintained dirt and cinder and passable by sedan.

INFO: Arizona Geological Survey

http://repository.azgs.az.gov/uri_gin/azgs/dlio/1536 

Arizona Wildlife Trails:

http://azwildlifetrails.com/northeastern-arizona-wildlife-trails/greens-peak-loop/

LAND OF THE PIONEERS TRAIL #651

LAND OF THE PIONEERS

This box canyon is a highlight along the north leg of the trail.

The bucolic pastures and quiet backwoods of Vernon, Arizona--population 122--is the last place you’d expect to be the scene of a vile triple homicide. It happened, though and the sad story is standard fare in local lore.

Ruins of a pioneer homestead.

Pioneers began settling the rural community in the eastern White Mountains in the 1890s, making a living on the surrounding lumber-rich forests. 

The ruins of an infamous pioneer cabin.

Legend has it that among the early pioneers were three women who lived in a log cabin just south of town.

Section 31 Tank attracts swarms of dragonflies.

Back-fence chatter about the women hiding a large amount of money on their property eventually reached the ears of criminals.  The women were murdered and their homestead ransacked. No riches were found.  Today, all that remains of the tragic scene are crumbling stone foundations and piles of rusty-nail planks.  

Delicate Torrey's Crag Lily bloom in sunny spots.

The historic homestead is one of many points of interest on the Land of the Pioneers Trail #651 that’s located 5 miles south of Vernon.   Constructed in a customizable, triple-loop format, trail No. 651 wanders through a mix of deep pine-oak woodlands and airy, juniper-dotted meadows. The most scenic elements of the hike are found on the north leg of the 8.7-mile circumference loop.

Beautiful White Mountains views from Ecks Mountain.

Bright red paintbrush wildflowers stand out along the paths.  

From the trailhead, the north leg departs at the kiosk following a dirt road. Just past the first of several cattle gates, the trail bends left onto a single track.

A sunny section of the circumference loop.

Like all White Mountains Trail System routes, this one is very well maintained and outfitted with location markers placed roughly every quarter-mile.

Approaching the box canyon.

The markers correspond with downloadable maps, so you’ll always know where you are on the trail. White diamond tags denote the main outer loop while yellow dots indicate shortcuts for the three inner loops.  The hike to the cabin site is just over a mile. The first ruins appear at location marker L30 and the main cabin ruins are a quarter mile farther at maker L29. This is also where the shortcut for Loop 1 veers off for a 3.5-mile option. Next up on the big loop, look for a short spur path on the left near marker L26 that leads to Section 31 Tank. The secluded water hole reflects the sky and teems with multi-colored dragonflies. 

Yellow dots indicate shortcut routes.

After another 0.75-mile, the trail traces the edge of rocky box canyon with steep drop offs and first glimpses of dozens of eroding cinder cones in the Springerville Volcanic Field. This is one of the prettiest spots on the trail.  Beyond the canyon, the trail begins its ascent up the flanks of Ecks Mountain.

One of several rustic gates along the route.

To bypass this challenging section, take the signed shortcut for a 6.8-mile moderate trek. Sweat expended on Ecks Mountain and an optional short spur that leads to a vista point pays off with excellent panoramic views of Greens Peak and rolling prairies that stretch into New Mexico.

Pink Windmills bloom through September.

A set of tight switchbacks mitigate the vertical descent down to the south leg of the loop. The final miles back to the trailhead undulate through boulder-studded ravines, moist drainages and fields of wildflowers shaded by the afternoon clouds that roll in like clockwork during White Mountains summers.

Be prepared for afternoon summer storms.

LENGTH:

Circumference Loop: 8.7 miles

Loop 1: 3.5 miles

Loop 1-2 combo: 6.8 miles

RATING:

ELEVATION: 7220 – 7864 feet

Section 31 Tank is located along the north leg of the big loop

GETTING THERE:

From the junction of US 60 and State Route 260 in Show Low, go 19.4 miles east on US60 to County Road 3140 (Vernon Road/Forest Road 224). Turn right and continue 5 miles south, turn right onto Forest Road 5 and drive 0.5-mile to the trailhead on the left.  Forest roads are gravel and dirt, suitable for passenger vehicles.

INFO: White Mountains Trail System

http://www.tracks-pinetop-lakeside.org/trails/TrailsFiles/LandOfThePioneersA.htm

OCOTE TRAIL

OCOTE TRAIL

White Mountain Grasslands Wildlife Area

Stock pond at White Mountain Grasslands Wildlife Area.

Have you ever wondered where money from the Arizona Lottery ends up? Besides lining the pockets of a few lucky winners, lottery proceeds also support numerous public programs including the Arizona Game and Fish Department Heritage Fund Program for threatened, endangered and sensitive species and their habitats. For the past 20 years the fund has made many positive contributions to the state's wildlife and natural areas conservation efforts while preserving public access and recreational opportunities.

One success story is the White Mountain Grasslands Wildlife Area near the town of Eagar. The 2,850-acre site is comprised of two former ranch properties acquired in 1999 and 2000. The 2.6-mile Ocote trail (named for one of the ranches) wraps around pinion-juniper woodlands, riparian habitat, ponds, a wet meadow, open grasslands, an historic log bunkhouse and rustic ranch house with a windmill.

Interpretive signs placed long the trails give details about the surrounding plants, animals and the how the property's various ecosystems help wildlife thrive. Although the trail is short and can be hiked in about an hour, a better plan is to allow plenty of time to sit quietly at strategically-placed viewing areas to catch sight of the pronghorn antelope, elk, squirrels, fox and dozens of bird species that inhabit this profoundly diverse slice of White Mountain terrain.

While there, kick back at a shady picnic table and contemplate all those bum lottery tickets you've angrily torn up over the years. They weren't losers after all.

LENGTH: 2.6-mile loop

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7,440' - 7,587'

HOURS: sunrise to sunset daily

GETTING THERE:

From Eagar, travel 5 miles west on State Route 260 to County Road 4128 (signed for Springerville Transfer Station). Turn right and follow the paved road 0.6 mile and take the left fork onto a gravel road. Continue 2.4 miles then turn left at a fork and pass over a cattle guard signed for Arizona Game and Fish Department property. Drive 0.3 mile to the trailhead on the left. Gravel road is suitable for carefully-driven sedans.

INFO: Arizona Game and Fish Department

http://www.azgfd.gov/outdoor_recreation/wildlife_area_grasslands.shtml

About the Heritage Fund:

http://www.azgfd.gov/w_c/heritage_program.shtml

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What goes around, comes around on Lake Mountain

LAKE MOUNTAIN LOOP

Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Lake Mountain lookout, built in 1926

If you’ve been reading this blog for any time at all, you’ve probably figured out that I have a penchant for hiking up volcanoes.  So, when I read about Lake Mountain--an extinct cinder cone with a water-filled crater near its summit—game on.  A little research showed that both a road and a good hiking trail lead to the summit. Using White Mountain Trail System (WMTS) online maps, we planned a loop hike using Los Burros Trail #631, Lake Mountain Spur and the lookout road.  As the system trails are very well signed, this plan was working well 

The "lake" is the volcano's crater--dry on June 16, 2012

Lake Mountain spur trail

Which way??

until we encountered our final junction where there were just waaaay too many signs.  A wooden forest service sign pointed right while of slew of WMTS blue diamond markers were tacked all over the place creating a confusing and seemingly contradictory conundrum.  As we puzzled over our maps, two friendly bikers---Keith and Bob---stopped to help.  We pointed out the Los Burros trailhead sign that had arrows pointing in opposite directions, and they suggested we head left as the WMTS signs indicated.  Sounded like as good a plan as any, and besides, I could always deploy my “return the way we came” tactic if we got off track.  We headed left but soon found that the abundant blue diamond trail markers suddenly disappeared, so we made the decision to turn around and hike back to a dirt road where we knew there was a trail sign. Then, two seconds before I was about to implement the backtrack, we heard a truck rumbling down the road---- Keith and Bob.  Having realized they had suggested the loooooong way back and that we’d probably be confused by the missing signage, they aborted their ride, tossed their bikes in their truck and came back to find us!  Talk about good guys!  WOW!  They even gave us a lift back to the trailhead.  This is just another example of how profoundly nice trail users can be.  I can’t tell you how many times my hiking pals and I have shared water, food, maps, rain gear, jumper cables and even helped haul fatigued hikers off the trails.  Truly, what goes around comes around. 

Hiking pal Julie poses with Bob and Keith--Thanks, guys!

Hike directions:

From the Los Burros #2 trailhead, cross the road and pick up Los Burros trail #631 heading north. Follow the blue diamond trail markers 0.5 mile to the lookout road (unsigned).  Turn left (west) here and hike 0.5 mile up the road to the lookout.  Here, there’s a wood sign that serves as the trailhead for both the Lake Mountain Spur trail and the 1-mile Lake Mountain Rim Trail loop. Do the loop, return to the trailhead, then head down the 0.25-mile spur trail to visit the “lake” and reconnect with Los Burros trail. At the bottom of the spur trail, continue right and hike 0.75-mile to a 3-way junction with a sign that reads “Los Burros trailhead 3”, go right here and hike 2 miles back to trailhead #2.

LENGTH: 5-mile loop

RATING: moderate—route/map reading skills required

ELEVATION:  7,800’- 8501’

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 207 miles one way

BEST SEASON: April - October

GETTING THERE:

From Pinetop-Lakeside, travel east on AZ260 to Vernon Road in McNary between mileposts 360-361. FYI: this road is also known as FR224, AP3140, Vernon-McNary Road, and N. Cady.  For reference, it’s located across from the McNary store and has a small green sign that reads “Vernon”.  Turn left (north) and continue 7.9 miles to Los Burros trailhead #2 (located at the 8 mile marker) on the right. The road turns into maintained dirt after 0.4 mile, passes thru the White Mountain Apache reservation, then enters the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest at the 5-mile point. 

INFO: White Mountains Trail System

http://www.tracks-pinetop-lakeside.org/trails/TrailsFiles/LosBurrosTrail.htm

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