LAVA’S EDGE TRAIL

LAVA’S EDGE TRAIL

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument.

Sunset Crater seen from Lava's Edge Trail

Volcanoes are one of earth’s most powerful and mesmerizing geological features.  Simultaneously beautiful and terrifying, they can hibernate for years before rumbling back to life spewing fiery ash clouds and fountains of molten rock that create indescribable paths of destruction.  Recent eruptions of Hawaii’s Kilauea and Guatemala’s Fuego volcanoes remind us of the landscape-altering forces inherent in these natural phenomena.

O'Leary Peak lava dome towers over the Bonito Lava Flow

Although Arizona is more commonly associated with saguaro-studded deserts, gaping chasms and red rock formations, much of the state’s landscape is a product of volcanism.  The San Francisco Volcanic Field north of Flagstaff is home to more than 600 extinct volcanoes that sprawl over the edge of the Colorado Plateau from Williams to the Little Colorado River.  Many familiar hiking trails climb to the summits of these ancient and eroded snuffed smokers.  Humphreys Peak, Kendrick Peak, Benham and O’Leary Peak are just a few examples. 

San Francisco Mountain is an extinct stratovolcano

Views from the tops of these classic trails showcase a landscape dotted with cinder cones, lava domes and expansive lava flows that melt into the colorful flatlands of the Painted Desert and the edge of the Grand Canyon.  To complement the impressive highpoint overviews and get a close look at the inner workings of a young volcano, take a hike on the Lava’s Edge Trail.  The 3.4-mile roundtrip trail is one of several within Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument that explore ground-level volcanic features.  The moderate-rated route shoveled out of crunchy cinders and soft black sand traces a ragged hem of a petrified magma skirt.  Geologists date the eruptive phase of Sunset Crater to between the years 1040 and 1100 which means the volcano’s birth was undoubtedly witnessed by the Hopi and Zuni people who lived nearby.

Aspens sprout from creases in the inky basalt

 The 1000-foot cinder cone blew ash and debris for miles around before liquid rock oozed from its western base forming the Bonito Lava Flow.  Lava’s Edge Trail wanders through the hardened remains of the flow.  The free-flowing aa—jagged basaltic lava—cooled into bizarre razor-edged slabs, contorted pillars, splatter cones, crusty walls and arched squeeze ups.  The acres of raw, blocky basalt look as fresh as the flows shown spilling from Kilauea on the nightly news. 

The hike is on rough cinders and black sand

Over the past 900 years, plant life has struggled to take hold in the steely ground.  Still, a stronghold of hearty Ponderosa pines, pinions, skunk bush and aspens have taken root in crevasses where water and organic materials provide hospitable conditions along the route.  In addition to the other worldly lava field and its parent 8039-foot cinder cone, the trail is flanked by two other types of volcanoes.  To the north of the trail, the double-humped form of O’Leary Peak (a lava dome volcano) soars to 8,916 feet while to the west, the bald peaks of San Francisco Mountain (a stratovolcano) top out at 12,633 feet.  

A Ponderosa pine frames the San Francisco Peaks 

To better understand the science behind the trail’s many points of interest, stop by the visitor center to view informative videos and displays or take part in a ranger talk.  As quiet and peaceful as the dormant volcanic highlands might appear; don’t be fooled.

Pines shade the black sand path

The fireworks aren’t over yet.  

The San Francisco Volcanic Field is still considered to be active, with the next event predicted to happen to the east of Sunset Crater.  Whether the earth resumes its fire show in the coming minutes or not for a million years, recent events in Hawaii have given us a vivid preview of what it might look like.

Rough aa lava cooled into bizarre sculptures

LENGTH: 3.4 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 6920 - 6960 feet

GETTING THERE:

From the Interstate17/40 junction in Flagstaff go east on I-40 east to the U.S. 89 north exit.  Continue north on US89 to the turn off for Sunset Crater (FR545), located just past milepost 430.  Turn right and follow the signs 2 miles to the park entrance.  From the fee station, continue 1.3 miles to the signed trailhead on the left.  

Sunset Crater and the Bonito Lava Flow

FEE: Park entry fee is good for 7 days of exploring within both Sunset Crater Volcano and Wupatki National Monuments. See website for fee schedule, free days and accepted passes.

INFO & MAPS:

https://www.nps.gov/sucr/index.htm