Celebrate the completion of the Arizona Trail

There's still time to register for--

Celebrating The Arizona Trail —
A Dream Come True

February 4, 2012
9 AM – 2 PM
PERA Club, Tempe, Arizona

You won’t want to miss the celebration of 26 years of determined effort to complete Dale Shewalter's dream of a continuous path from Mexico to Utah. This luncheon and festival will feature memorable presentations, fun interactive sessions, relevant exhibits, and more.

Registration deadlines:  Friday, January 20th (mail) and Monday, January 23rd (online).

 Not a member of the AZ Trail Assoc?-- Members get access to high-value goodies like detailed maps and cool events.  Sign up here:

http://www.aztrail.org/

The easy way up Union Peak

GREAT HORNED OWL-UNION PEAK LOOP

Phoenix Sonoran Preserve

Ahh. There's nothing quite like the feel of a brand new hiking trail-- especially when it leads to a mountain top. 

Up until last month, I had never heard of Union Peak--not to be confused with Mount Union (see my other blog entry) near Prescott.  Who knew? It's hiding in plain sight off  I-17 north of the Jomax exit in the Phoenix Sonoran Preserve and now (woot, woot), there's easy access  to its summit.  Getting to the peak involves connecting several trails and although there are many options, the most direct route is described here.

Be warned, though, that some of the trails do not have signs yet , so it's prudent to download the preserve map (link below) before heading out.  On the way to the peak, hikers are treated to mellow passages studded with cholla and desert shrubs, dips into rugged arroyos and climbs to high points with gorgeous views.  The final 0.45 uphill leg to the peak has a couple of tricky/steep spots, but it’s otherwise just a moderate slog.  The summit is comprised of three stoney humps linked by a footpath. While up there, be sure to locate the hiker log (a small glass jar with pad & pencil) to document your visit. 

Looking northeast from the summit of Union Peak

HIKE DIRECTIONS:

From the trailhead, begin on Hawk's Nest (H) Trail and hike to the turn off for Desert Tortoise Trail (DT) at the 0.25-mile post.  Turn right (southeast) and follow DT 1.12 mile to Valle Verde Trail (V).  Turn right (south) and continue on V 0.6 mile to Great Horned Owl Trail (GO).  This is the loop portion of the hike, so you can go either right or left.  However, if you plan to hike up Union Peak, go left to get there quicker.  Once done with the loop,  retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

LENGTH: 7.45 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy-moderate

ELEVATION:  1,600' – 2,200'

DOGS: dogs must be on leash and handlers must pack out poo

KID FRIENDLY: yes
BEST SEASON:  October -April

FACILITIES: no restroom or water, plenty of parking, trail map sign, and there’s a special lot for horse trailers

HOURS: 6 a.m to 7 p.m.

GETTING THERE:

Desert Vista Trailhead:

From Phoenix, go north on I-17 to Jomax exit.  Go 0.2 mile on Jomax to Norterra Parkway, turn left (north) and continue 1.2 miles to North Valley Parkway.  Turn right (south) and go 0.2 miles to Copperhead Trail.  Turn left and go just a few yards  to Melvern Trail.  Turn left on Melvern and go 0.1 mile  to Desert Vista Trail on the right .  Follow Desert Vista through a gate that leads to the trailhead..

INFO: City of Phoenix, Phoenix Sonoran Preserve

 http://phoenix.gov/parks/trails/locations/sonoran/index.html

For general information: 602 262-7901


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A HARD-WON LOOK AT A RARE SITE

BLACK MESA RUINS

Black Canyon City

The East Face of the Fort

Of the hundreds of known archeological sites in the Agua Fria National Monument (AFNM), only one (Pueblo La Plata) is publicized by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).  However, several others are frequented by local hikers, including this bastion of boulders teetering over I-17 near Black Canyon City. Although it's well documented in popular hiking books and web sites, getting to this Hohokam fortress is no easy task.  Route finding, barbed wire, cat-claw-infested washes, and a short section of vertical hand-over-foot climbing, thwart all but the most determined hikers.

Archeologists think this multi-room structure was constructed between 800 – 1150 C.E..  Unlike other ruins in the area, this one is remarkably intact with two-man-high walls shielding its eastern flank.  The layout of the site is still clear, making it easy to imagine how the numerous rooms with peepholes looking out over the canyons were used to monitor activities on the surrounding grasslands where the builders may have farmed, hunted and stood guard over their communities.  At the eastern base of the mesa, hundreds of petroglyphs—including some interesting footprint designs--- decorate volcanic boulders. As with all heritage sites: leave everything as you found it.  Take only pictures; leave only footprints.

Overlooking Black Canyon City

LENGTH: 1.5 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate-difficult (route-finding, steep climb)

ELEVATION: 2,200' – 3,163'
BEST SEASON: October -April

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go north on I-17 past Black Canyon City. Park in any of the dirt pullouts along the freeway between mileposts 245 and 246.  From here, locate a BLM gate (closer to MP246) with an AFNM sign.  The gate is usually locked, but it’s easy (and legal) to squeeze through.  From here, there's a rough path for about 0.1 mile, then, you'll need to bushwhack uphill while aiming roughly 100 feet to the north of the ruins on the tip of the mesa where a break in the cliffs makes for a manageable 25-foot hand-over-foot climb to the site.

The BLM Gate. Destination is the peak on the left.

Footprint Rock Art

GENERAL INFO: Bureau of Land Management, Agua Fria National Monument

http://www.blm.gov/az/st/en/prog/blm_special_areas/natmon/afria.html

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WHERE THE WILD WILLOWS WEEP

DRIPPING SPRING

Willows and pines at the lower spring

Pine-Strawberry

Aptly named, Dripping Springs is a duo of seep areas in a muddy embankment held together with a lattice of roots and vines. Unlike the typical gushing mountain spring, these natural water tanks – lodged beneath dirt parapets topped with ponderosa pines – work like giant earthen sponges issuing a steady dribble of moisture. Slick with moss and algae, the nutrient-rich ooze of these “weeping cliffs” sustains a green valley that spills into the hamlets of Pine-Strawberry below.

From the Pine trailhead, pick up a trail beginning at the southeast end of the parking lot near the corral. Follow this winding path a short distance to the Highline No. 31/Pine Canyon Trail No. 26 junction. From here, veer north (left) on Trail No. 26 and hike 0.5 miles to the Pineview Trail No. 28 junction and stay straight on Trail No. 26. From here, it’s one mile to Lower Dripping Spring and another 0.15 miles to Upper Dripping Spring.

Note: To extend this hike, continue 6.25 miles uphill on Trail No. 26 to the 7,200-foot crest of the Mogollon Rim.

LENGTH: 7 miles roundtrip

ELEVATION: 5,420' -6,100' 

RATING: moderate

DOGS: leashed dogs allowed

KID FRIENDLY?: best for older kids
BEST SEASON: spring, fall, winter

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 105 miles one way

GETTING THERE: From the intersection of SR 87/260 in Payson, go north to just south of the town of Pine, turn right at the sign for the Pine Trailhead and go 0.25 miles to the parking lot.

FACILITIES: restroom

INFO: Payson Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, 928-474-7900
, 
http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/tonto/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=35593&actid=50

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NEW YEAR, OLD TRAIL

BALLANTINE- PINE CREEK LOOP TRAIL

Tonto National Forest

View from Ballantine Trail, January 1, 2012

Confession: I've driven by the Ballantine trailhead on SR 87 eleventy-nine times, but never pulled over because, from the highway, the terrain just didn't inspire. It took the recommendation of a trusted hiking pal for me to put this trail first up on my 2012 resolution list in the “hike trails I've overlooked for years” column.

"Stonehenge" Section of the Ballantine Trail

Come to find out, this trail looks a lot better once it moves away from the highway.  A somewhat strenuous climb reveals a landscape of knuckle-and-joint, mica-imbedded boulders, deep gorges and a battalion of regal saguaro cactuses standing sentry. There's even a mini "Stonehenge" passage with nature-sculpted  granite monoliths. Seasonal water doodling through the canyons adds a calming soundtrack to the impressive views. As there is no directional signage at the trailhead, here’s the skinny. From the parking area, the Pine Creek Loop Trail heads off in both directions.  We opted to begin on the south leg (go right) and hiked 1.4 miles to a saddle where wood trail signs (with inaccurate mileage) herald your options.  From here, we continued 2 miles (not 3 as the sign indicates) north on Ballantine Trail to Boulder Flat.  The flat is not signed, but you’ll know you’ve reached it when you come to a “T” trail junction with a rotting wood sign offering little usable information.  This was our turnaround point. However, to continue on Ballantine, go right (southeast) or, take the left track to pick up the Pipeline Trail.

One resolution down--about a million to go.

Boulder Flat

LENGTH: 6.8 miles (as described here). 

Ballantine Trail only: 10 miles one-way

Pine Creek Loop only: 2.8 miles

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 2,240' – 3,700' (this hike).  Ballantine Trail only: 2,520' – 4,200'

DOGS: leashed dogs okay, may be too rough for older or inexperienced dogs

KID FRIENDLY:  older kids
BEST SEASON: October -April

South Leg of Pine Creek Loop

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, take Loop 202 east to SR 87 north (Beeline Highway).  Follow SR 87 north to just past milepost 210 (approx 21 miles north of Shea Blvd.) where you'll see the Ballantine trailhead on the right.

INFO: Tonto National Forest, Mesa Ranger District, 480-610-3300

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/tonto/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=35449&actid=50

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/tonto/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=35447&actid=50

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CRAZY CACTUSES, CANYONS & CREEKS

CAVE CREEK TRAIL #4

Tonto National Forest

The product of both a growth anomaly and miraculous survival, a ginormous crested saguaro cactus, sporting a fabulous fan-shaped cap, is a keynote attraction of this popular hiking route.  Biologists remain stumped about how the bizarre fan-shaped tops of crested saguaro cactuses form citing genetic mutations, lightning and other forces of nature as possible culprits.  Adding to the allure of this aberrant plant (located roughly 3 miles from the east trailhead)  is its survival of the 2005 Cave Creek Complex Fire which destroyed much of the surrounding vegetation. In addition to this trademark biological wonder, the trail is steeped in enchantment, passing among rolling desert hills, trickling creeks, magnificent canyons, forests of sycamores, mesquite bosques and heady, go-on-to-forever vistas.  It's impossible to hike this trail and not be moved by its extraordinary beauty.

The trail runs east-west, and can be accessed from the west at Spur Cross Ranch or the east at Seven Springs Recreation Area.  The shallow flow of Cave Creek anchors both terminuses while a maze of scrub-laden hills and valleys fill the in-betweens.  This is an especially beautiful hike during “desert autumn” (November thru mid-December) when the creekside foliage glows in shades of gold.  

LENGTH: 10.4 miles one-way

RATING:  moderate

ELEVATION: 3,280'-2,960'

DOGS: dogs must be on leash.  There have been recent reports of rabid bobcats in the area, so be sure your dog’s shots are up-to-date.
BEST SEASON: October - April (December is primo!)

GETTING THERE:

EAST Cave Creek Trailhead: From the Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Pima/Princess Road exit and go  13 miles north on Pima to Cave Creek Road.  Turn right (east) and go 12.5 miles on Cave Creek Road (a.k.a FR 24 and Seven Springs Road) past Seven Spring Recreation Area  to Cave Creek trailhead on the left located between MCDOT mile markers 12 and 13.  Roads paved up to the last 10 miles, which are maintained dirt/gravel, passable by passenger cars when dry. Two minor creek crossings are required—do not attempt after heavy rains.

WEST: Spur Cross/Skull Mesa Trailhead: From the park trailhead, hike 2.9 miles north on Spur Cross Road (FR48) to the Skull Mesa trailhead and pick up trail #4. MAP:

http://www.maricopa.gov/parks/spur_cross/

FACILITIES: restroom, picnic tables

FEES: Tonto Pass is NOT required as long as you park at the hiker trailhead only.
INFO: Tonto National Forest:

http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c4/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gjAwhwtDDw9_AI8zPyhQoY6BdkOyoCAGixyPg!/?navtype=TOPNAVIGATION&cid=fsbdev3_018752&navid=160100000000000&pnavid=160000000000000&ss=110312&position=Not%20Yet%20Determined.Html&ttype=detail&pname=Tonto%20National%20Forest-%20Recreation%20Passes#where

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TRAIL OF DOOM?

PYRAMID TRAIL

South Mountain Park, Phoenix

One year from today, the Maya Long Count Calendar will complete its 5,125-year cycle, triggering the End of the World. Time for a HIKE!

From the desert floor beneath the triangular-shaped peak that dominates this trail, a zig-zagging path ascending its west face  looks like steps on a Mayan temple--  a chiseled, deliberate skyward trek. With my imagination stoked by a recent viewing of the Mel Gibson film Apocalypto,  I trudged up this hill in the waning days of 2011 wondering about the impending doom predicted by the  Maya Long Count Calendar. According to ancient Maya astronomers, on the winter solstice 2012 (12-21-12, 11:11 p.m. UT --4:11 p.m. in Phoenix) our sun will align with the center of the Milky Way, triggering cosmic chaos and the end of the world. Apparently, the City of Phoenix  did not get Quetzalcoatl's memo and went ahead with a major land purchase in 2009, adding the Pyramid and Bursera trails (both completed in 2011)  to the Ahwatukee side of South Mountain Park.  However, other than its name and Mayan-esque physical characteristics, this trail has nothing at all to do with the demise of the universe.   Instead, it's full of life, a joy to hike and would make for an excellent 2012 New Year's Day hike---because of the end of the world and all.  (eh-hum, back to hiking) The first mile is an easy walk among cactuses, creosote and ironwood-cluttered arroyos just yards from the backyards of a residential area along Pecos Blvd.  The trail then swerves away from the homes, taking on the pyramid via switchbacks that go from elongated and effortless to short and grinding. Passing cliffs where cholla and barrel cactuses cling to bare rock, the trail hugs the edge of the hill for expansive views of the Sierra Estrella Mountains and the cotton fields of the Gila  Indian community.  After topping out on an isolated stony outcropping, the path then makes a minor dip onto a saddle then goes up again  toward an array of towers near where it connects with the National Trail. 

Whether or not the  Maya (or other) theory of 2012 armageddon comes to fruition, this trail is as good a place as any to witness stellar cataclysm--or make a dent in a new year's resolution to get more exercise.

Arroyo on the Lower Trail

LENGTH: 6 miles roundtrip

RATING:  moderate

ELEVATION: 1,235' – 2,337'

DOGS: leashed dogs allowed

FACILITIES: none
BEST SEASON: October -April

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, take I-10 south/east (Tucson) to exit 161 for Pecos Road.  Drive 7.2 miles west (right) on Pecos to 17^th Avenue.  Head north (right) on 17^th Ave. and continue 0.7 mile to where 17^th Ave meets Chandler Blvd.  Turn left here and go 0.3 mile to the end of the road where a generic "trail" sign marks the trailhead.

HIKE DIRECTIONS:

From the trailhead, begin by hiking west, making a sharp right a few yards in.  Continue 0.44 mile to the junction with Bursera Trail.  Here, go right (east) and continue 2.6 miles to trail's end at the junction with National Trail. NOTE: there are a couple of junctions marked only with plain brown posts---at these, just head toward the peak.

INFO: City of Phoenix Parks & Recreation

http://phoenix.gov/parks/trails/locations/south/index.html

MAPS:

http://phoenix.gov/parks/trails/locations/south/hiking/index.html
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DEEM HILLS

City of Phoenix Parks & Recreation

View from the Ridgeline Trail

Not too long ago, only an informal quagmire of footpaths provided access to this set of low-slung hills in northwest Phoenix. This was great for the locals who knew the area, but not so much for those of us who like to know where we're going.  In 2010, the City of Phoenix gave the Deem Hills trails a major facelift adding excellent signage, trailhead facilities and onsite/online maps, thus  re-DEEMing (sorry, couldn't resist) this city park from its pit of neglect. Now a primo hiking destination, trekkers can choose from several routes ranging in difficulty from very easy to mildly strenuous.  The 5.9-mile long Circumference Trail serves as a main artery route, acting as a gateway to several paths that crawl up and around the hills.  In my opinion, the most interesting routes in the park are the Ridgeline and Basalt Trails.  Both paths involve some climbing, but it's so gradual, you'll hardly break a sweat.  On the way up, views of north Phoenix mountains, CAP canal and surrounding suburbs stand out from  the trailside inky-black basalt boulders and rock slides.  Although the din of I-17 is never quite out of earshot, this close-to-town hiking spot makes for an easy way to get out for a quick jaunt in the desert.

Ridgeline Trail

LENGTH: 14.29 miles of trails (one way)

Circumference Trail: 5.9-mile loop

Palisade Trail/WaterTank Road: 1.53 miles

Basalt Trail: 0.64 mile

Ridgeline Trail: 1.45 miles

CAP Road: 1.61 miles

Various Access Trails: 2.5 miles

Water Tank Road: 0.33 mile

RATING:  easy-moderate

ELEVATION: 1,500' at trailhead to 2,098' top of Ridgeline Trail

Basalt Boulders on the Basalt Trail

KID FRIENDLY: yes

DOGS: leashed dogs are allowed.  Handlers must immediately pick up poo and pack it out
BEST SEASON: October -April

GETTING THERE:

EAST (39th Ave. ) TRAILHEAD: From Phoenix, go north on I-17 to exit 218 for Happy Valley Road.  Pass through the traffic circle, heading west (left) on Happy Valley Road and continue 1 mile to 35^th Avenue. Turn north (right) and follow 35^th Ave. 1.4 miles to Pinnacle Vista Road. (NOTE: 35^th Ave.  swerves and turns into 33^rd Ave).   Turn west (left) and follow Pinnacle Vista 0.7 mile to where it dead-ends and veers right at 39^th Ave.  The trailhead is roughly 0.1 mile up 39^th Ave. on the left.
FACILITIES: map sign, shaded seating area, drinking fountain

WEST (51^st Ave) TRAILHEAD:  Deem Hills Park
  at 51st Avenue and Deem Hills Parkway . From I-17, follow Happy Valley Road west to 51^st Ave. Turn north (right) and continue on 51^st Ave (it will turn into Deem Hills Pkwy) to the trailhead on the right.

FACILITIES: Restrooms and water available.

INFO: City of Phoenix Parks & Recreation

http://phoenix.gov/recreation/rec/parks/preserves/locations/deemhills/map/index.html

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HIKING WITH TOURISTS : PART 2

BADGER SPRINGS WASH

Agua Fria National Monument

Air travel these days is a real bear. What with the body scans, shoe searches and the outright abuse  of  overhead bin space, trying to cram a decent pair of hiking boots and a backpack into weight-restricted luggage is certainly not at the top of the “to do” list of many holiday travelers.  Yet, with so much to see in the great Arizona outdoors, we simply should not let the lack of good equipment put a damper on treating our winter visitors to a hike.  Here's one local favorite that's not too rough but has a nice wilderness feel to it.  Badger Springs Wash Trail is a short, sandy gateway to Agua Fria Canyon ending at the mouth of the gorge just before the going gets tricky. One of only two  “official” trails in Agua Fria National Monument, the route delves into a world of steep granite walls and gangly scrub with a panel of ancient petroglyphs at trail's end serving as the outing's  piece de resistance. Although properly-equipped hikers can stumble through the full length of the boulder-strewn canyon, tourists are usually thrilled by the unfamiliar sights

and satisfied with the enormity of eye-candy along this abbreviated trek. 

Head of Agua Fria Canyon, Dec. 9, 2011

Boulders & Sand define Badger Springs Wash

LENGTH: 2 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy (some rocky spots)

ELEVATION: 3,100' – 2,900'

GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, go roughly 40 miles north on I-17 to exit 256 for Badger Springs Road.  Turn right and continue about 1.2 miles (past the restroom) to the circular parking area. This last mile is on rugged dirt/gravel, so a high-clearance vehicle is recommended.

The trail begins at the southeast side of the lot.  You'll see a sign and register box about 50 yards in.

INFO: Bureau of Land Management, 623-580-5500

http://www.blm.gov/az/st/en/prog/blm_special_areas/natmon/afria.html

HIKING WITH TOURISTS: PART 1

GOWAN TRAIL

Tonto Natural Bridge State Park, Payson

As an avid hiker, one  dilemma that frequently crosses my boots is this---what to do when out-of-state guests arrive from the frozen north.  Although many of my visitors love and appreciate the outdoors (and also want me to take them hiking) few are regular hikers and none have experience in our state's special terrain.  Over the years, I've come up with a list of innocuous trails that are suitable for those equipped only with tennis shoes,  a borrowed walking stick and a bottle of water but still give good exposure to the Arizona wilds.  The Gowan Trail, which leads to the world's largest naturally-sculpted travertine arch at Tonto Natural Bridge State Park, is one of those trails.  Short, engineered with steps to ease the climb  and packed with the WOW factor, this hike is always a crowd pleaser. Other short trails in the park are also “tourist-friendly”. Maps are available in the visitor center.

Suspension Bridge over Pine Creek

LENGTH: 1 mile round trip

RATING: moderate (although the trailhead sign warns of difficult terrain, it just ain't that bad)

ELEVATION:  3,155' - 2,805'

KID FRIENDLY: with supervision

DOGS: pets not allowed on the trails

FEES:

Adults (age 14+): $5

Youngsters (7-13): $2

Kiddies (0-6): free

Tonto Natural Bridge

HOURS: 9 a.m. To 5 p.m. Park is closed on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Thanksgiving & Christmas

FACILITIES: restrooms, visitor center/gift shop, picnic areas, swimming, hiking
DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 110 miles one way

Ice hangs from the top of the bridge: Dec. 8, 2011

GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, north on SR87 (Beeline Highway) to Payson.  From the intersection of SR87/260, continue 10 miles north on 87 to the signed turn off on the left. The paved road down to the park is narrow and steep.

INFO: 928-476-4202

http://www.pr.state.az.us/parks/TONA/index.html

HIKING FALL COLOR IN DECEMBER

HIKING FALL COLOR IN DECEMBER

December 7, 2011

Suspension bridge over Queen Creek

Color on December 7, 2011

Entering the Suspension Bridge, Dec. 7, 2011

If you missed the fall hiking season in northern Arizona his year, a second chance to view autumnal color has arrived in the deserts, and just in time to treat my visiting cousins from Connecticut (where fall foliage was ruined by a severe, October snow storm this year) to a beautiful hike under canopies of tawny leaves.  Our first stop was Boyce Thompson Arboretum where the annual fall festival, staring the famous Chinese pistachio trees, is in full swing this week.  Take the scenic High Trail, which is accessed via a wood suspension bridge and follows a ridge above Queen Creek for the best views of the vivid amber sycamore, blood-red pistachio and lemony cottonwood trees.

LENGTH:  up to 4 miles, maps available online and at the park

RATING:  easy

ELEVATION: 2,400’-2,600’

View from the High Trail

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go east on US 60 to the signed turn off for the park located just outside the town of Superior. 

FEES:  $9 per adult, $4.50 for kids 5-12 and FREE for kids under age 4 and under.

HOURS:  Sept. – April: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., May – Aug. 6 a.m. – 3 p.m.

DOGS: leashed dog are permitted. Bring poo bags.

INFO:  (520) 689-2811, http://ag.arizona.edu/bta/

RICHINBAR MINE RUINS

RICHINBAR MINE RUINS

Agua Fria National Monument

Approaching the Petroglyph Site

Mine Site Ruins

Few places in Arizona are as rich in history as the mesas and valleys of Agua Fria National Monument (AFNM).  Straddling the canyon-riddled grasslands along I-17 between Black Canyon City and Cordes Junction, the area's complex landscape can be viewed from behind the wheel of a car or by stopping at Sunset Point rest area.  However, it takes hiking into the guts of this wild place to really appreciate its significance.  Although most of the AFNM is very rugged terrain, this historic mining operation is one of only three spots on the monument that almost anybody can get to without much fuss.  (Pueblo La Plata and Badger Springs Wash are the other two).  The hike begins at a locked gate just off the freeway, following a dirt road past a windmill with water toughs for the cattle that graze the surrounding flatlands.

In just under a mile, the road reaches the cliffs overlooking Agua Fria River Canyon. This is a good place to get an overview of the layout and plan your exploring before descending to the site.  Concrete foundations and random heaps of rotting wood, rusty metal and barbed wire are all that remains of Richinbar Mine.  Clinging to the steep inclines above the canyon and below the low-slung mound of Joe’s Hill volcano, the mine operated from the 1880s to the 1940s under various owners harvesting tons of copper, lead, gold and silver.  Three major mine shafts—one at least 500 feet deep—are on the site.  Although they're cordoned off by barbed wire, it's wise to use extreme caution around these holes.  Much has been written about the mine and the hardy workers who lived and labored in this unforgiving terrain and the links below are excellent sources to peruse before taking this hike. 

But long before the rich ore drew modern day miners to the area, this place was inhabited by Native Americans who built seven major cities and hundreds of satellite dwellings that now stand as crumbling foundations throughout the monument.  The locations of most ruins are not publicized to aid preservation, however, there's a well-known petroglyph site here with elegant etchings of antelope and deer ---it's on the pinnacle to the far north of the mine.

First View of the Mine Site

LENGTH:  1.5 miles one-way to the mine. 

(We wandered around the site for a total hike of just under 4 miles).

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 3,370' – 3,497'
BEST SEASON: October - April

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go north on I-17 (roughly 35 miles) to the Sunset Point rest area.  From here, continue 1.7 miles to the turnoff for FR9006 on the right.  A windmill and stock tanks are your landmark. (If you reach Badger Springs Road, you've gone 2.3 miles too far). Turn onto FR9006 and park in the dirt lot being sure not to block the gate. The gate is usually locked, but it's easy (and legal) to squeeze through.   Roads are paved up to the dirt parking area.

Petroglyphs

INFO:

Agua Fria National Monument: general info and maps

https://www.blm.gov/visit/agua-fria

Arizona Pioneer & Cemetery Research Project: historical info and photos

http://www.apcrp.org/RICHINBAR/Richenbar_Text_Mast_013009.htm

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HUMBOLDT MOUNTAIN

HUMBOLDT   MOUNTAIN

Tonto National Forest

Looking East Over the Verde River Valley

UPDATE: 9-26-20 The Sears Fire is burning in this area. https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/incident/7218/

View from the Summit

Sometimes I just feel like a brainless hike up a hill with no route finding, treacherous terrain or precarious precipices. Just. Up.  Thankfully, Humboldt Mountain meets this criteria and it's not too far from downtown Phoenix.  You've probably seen this hill and wondered about it ---there's a huge, white “golf ball” (as it’s commonly called) on the summit that’s visible from the back roads north of Cave Creek and Carefree. The white ball, which is an FAA radar station used for air traffic control, shares the summit with a fire tower and a hardware jungle of tech equipment.  The hike involves walking up a narrow road of crumbling asphalt via a series of gentle switchbacks and a combination of flat and fairly steep segments.  The 2005 Cave Creek Complex Fire took a toll on the area's vegetation, but recovery is underway and desert shrubs are popping up everywhere.  With every few feet of elevation gain, the views get bigger and better.  Much of the lower road winds through cactus-studded grasslands with Cave Creek Mountains, Pinnacle Peak and New River Mesa on the horizon.  Higher up, the road winds around to the eastern slope of the mountain where there the sprawling Verde River Valley and Horseshoe Lake come into view. Just below the summit, the one and only hairpin turn in the road kisses the edge of a scenic saddle.  Here, sycamore-and-cottonwood cluttered drainages appear as  twisted meanders nearly 2,000 feet below.  From this saddle, the final uphill slog to the summit rewards with more excellent views and the revelation that “golf ball” is hardly an accurate description of the FAA tower. It is most indubitably, a soccer ball.

LENGTH:  7.8 miles roundtrip

RATING:  moderate

ELEVATION: 3,570' – 5,204'
BEST SEASON: October - April

Saddle View

GETTING THERE:

From Loop 101 in North Scottsdale, take the Pima/Princess Road exit and go 13 miles north on Pima Road to Cave Creek Road.  Turn right (east) and continue on Cave Creek Road (a.k.a. FR 24, Seven Springs Road) to FR 562 (Humboldt Mountain road) located between MCDOT mile markers 9 and 10.  The turnoff is easy to miss—it’s on the right, paved and there’s a “562” sign about 100 feet up the road.  Park in the turnouts along FR24 and FR562 and hike up FR562 to the summit. 

HINT: If you get to Seven Springs Recreation Area, you have gone roughly 2 miles too far.

INFO:  Cave Creek Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, (480) 595-3300


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LOST DOG WASH-RINGTAIL-OLD JEEP LOOP

LOST DOG WASH-RINGTAIL-OLD JEEP LOOP

Ocotillo on Ringtail Trail

McDowell Sonoran Preserve, Scottsdale

Lost Dog Wash Trail

Thompson Peak from Taliesin Overlook

Now, here's a trail after my own heart.  Although the eponymous canine didn't have such luck---it's nearly impossible for hikers to get lost on this trail. That's because this desert path bumping up against the 'burbs of North Scottsdale is lovingly maintained and outfitted with directional signage at every critical point.  Not exactly the best trail choice for solitude or a “wilderness feel”, this popular path's benefits are its ease-of-tread, proximity to town, beautiful views and nice trailhead facilities. Also, for those living in less than fit bodies due to Arizona summer hibernation, this trail makes for an effortless segue into the winter hiking season. 

Sandwiched between a sea of terracotta tile roofs and the foothills below the peaks of the McDowell Mountains, Lost Dog Wash is kind of a peanut-butter-and-jelly hike---easy to make and everybody loves it. For comparison, the Tom's Thumb hike—one of the tougher trails in the preserve-- is a Tofurkey Rubin hike---more exotic and not for everyone.

Given that I only had a couple of hours to hike this week, Lost Dog Wash was a natural choice. However, to add interest, I made a loop hike using 3 short trails. The Lost Dog trail is extremely popular and is usually crowded with hikers, runners, dog walkers and mountain bikers.  This loop option (details below) briefly escapes the spokes and spandex via the Old Jeep Trail.  The preserve also boasts a team of trail stewards—highly trained and knowledgeable outdoor enthusiasts who volunteer their time to educate the public about this precious swath of desert.  I hiked with one of them today for about a mile and learned quite a bit from him before we hiked off on divergent paths.  The stewards also lead public hikes and there’s one coming up this Thanksgiving morning called “More Pie Please”.  To join this free, easy, 3-mile hike, meet at 7:45 a.m. at the Lost Dog Trailhead (see below) and preemptively work off the calories for your extra slab of pecan pie (or Tofurkey Rubin).

LOOP DIRECTIONS:

Begin on Lost Dog Wash Trail (LD) and hike 0.5 mile to the Ringtail Trail (RT) junction.  Go right and follow RT 0.5 mile to the LD Overlook at emergency marker RT5.  Visit the overlook, then return to the trail and go another 0.2 mile to the junction with Old Jeep Trail (JT).  Go left (north) on JT and hike 1.4 miles to where the trail reconnects with LD.  Continue straight on LD.  In another 0.5 mile, you'll come to the turn off for Taliesin Overlook.  Although LD trail continues another 0.4 mile past the overlook, I made this the turnaround point for the loop.  Hike back to JT junction, but this time, go right (south) and follow LD 1.6 miles back to the trailhead.

LENGTH: 5.3 mile loop

RATING: easy

ELEVATION:  1,755' – 2,092'

FACILITIES: restrooms, water, shade ramadas, horse hitching posts 

HOURS: sunrise to sunset (it's illegal to be in the preserve outside these hours)

KID FRIENDLY: yes

DOGS: leashed dogs allowed.  Handlers must immediately pick up poo and pack it out.

GETTING THERE:

From the Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take exit 41 for Shea Blvd., turn east (right) and go 4.2 miles to 124^th Street. Turn left (north) on 124^th Street and go 1 mile to where the road dead-ends at the trailhead.

INFO: City of Scottsdale McDowell Sonoran Preserve

http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve

McDowell Sonoran Conservancy:

http://mcdowellsonoran.org/

MAP: http://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/Assets/Public+Website/trails/trails+images/Preserve+Trails+South.pdf

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