Transept Trail

TRANSEPT TRAIL

Many slick rock passages define the Transept Trail

Forming a natural divide between State Route 179 and the hyper-busy trails that loop around iconic Bell Rock in the Village of Oak Creek, the north-south running ridgeline known as the Seven Warriors is home to a pair of trails known for their edge-hugging exposure. 

Transept Trail traces the cliffs of the Seven Warriors ridge

The Hiline Trail that’s part of the Yavapai Vista Trail System, scoots along the ridgeline’s eastern slopes while the newer Transept Trail traces the less congested western side. There are several ways to access the user-created route that was adopted by the forest service in 2018. The most direct way to is begin at the small trailhead along Verde Valley School Road. 

Mayan Maiden formation is a must-see feature along the trail

This less aggressive approach offers a more gradual, smoother gradient than its east side counterpart as well as equally heady views.  The first half-mile makes a steady but mild ascent through cypress-juniper woodlands and jumbled drainages. At the 0.2-mile point, keep an eye out for the Mayan Maiden rock formation that stands at the base of a mass of russet pinnacles to the south. The conspicuous natural sculpture looks convincingly like an elegantly- dressed woman emerging from the stone.

Looking south on the Transept Trail

Views of Cathedral Rock from the Transept Trail

Hardy agaves line the trail

Beyond the Mayan Maiden, the easy walk transitions into a more moderate haul defined by slickrock passages and high-step climbs over crumbling sandstone shelves. Although some slippery loose rock, tricky turns and short sections with stomach-churning deep drop offs require extra effort and steady nerves, the payoff of hiking close to the edge is unobstructed vistas of Cathedral Rock, House Mountain and the flood plains of Oak Creek.  The Transept Trail ends at the 3.2-mile point where is connects with the Hiline Trail. From this high point junction on the nose of a beveled rock jetty with 360-degree views, there are several ways to extend the hike or make a long loop.  Consult the forest service map for details. 

Juniper trees shade the lower part of the trail

High desert woodlands on Transept Trail

Transept Trail is an adopted user-crated route

LENGTH: 6.4 miles out-and-back

RATING: moderate-difficult

ELEVATION:  4,200 – 4,570 feet

GETTING THERE:

From State Route 179 in the Village of Oak Creek, go 2.1 miles west (left through the traffic roundabout ) on Verde Valley School Road to the parking area on the left. The trail begins across the road.

INFO & MAP:

https://www.sedonaredrocktrails.org/ROGS/HilineTransept.pdf

RED CLIFF

RED CLIFF

Hassayampa River, Wickenburg

Red Cliff is a dominant feature along the Hassayampa River

 Striking in its simplicity, the hike to Red Cliff slips through a spare, water-ravaged landscape just a few miles south of the town of Wickenburg.  Surrounded by the oddly formed peaks of the Vulture and Harquahala Mountains, railroad tracks and acres of shadeless plains, the route is a stomping ground for ATV riders, roaming livestock and a disturbingly robust community of turkey vultures.

Flood debris in the Hassayampa River

Nothing about the dirt staging area at the mouth of Little Domingo Wash screams “gateway to an epic hike”.  

Mud flats define the course of the Hassayampa River

A scraggly fringe of spindly willows, mesquite and invasive tamarisk survive among tire tracks, cow pies and horse apples.  

One of many gates beyond Red Cliff help contain cattle

Small aircraft sometimes glide into a nearby backcountry landing strip and occasional 4x4s hauling trailers rumble over a maze of dusty dirt roads that lead to abandoned mines and homesteads. As stark and unpromising as it appears, this is the start point of an interesting walk that explores the anatomy of a major desert waterway.

Lush desert vegetation grows along the river

This section of the Hassayampa River is a recreational hub

Over its 100-mile length, the Hassayampa River flows through a variety of eco-zones and amazing topography. From its humble source in the pine-covered Bradshaw Mountains south of Prescott to where it empties into the Gila River southwest of Phoenix, the river runs through mountain woodlands, gorges, plains and riparian corridors.

Desert marigolds bloom in the dry river bed.

Except in a few places like the Hassayampa River Preserve at Vulture Mountain Recreation Area along U.S. 60 where water flows above ground year-round, the waterway runs underground.   In this area of the river that’s located about 28 miles north of Interstate 10 and roughly 40 miles north of the Gila River, surface water exists in the form of flash floods and fugitive puddles.  

Invasive tamarisk (salt cedar) is common along the river

Volcanic cliffs flank the Hassayampa River bed

Rain water and snowmelt deposits that roar through the river’s wide corridor are quickly absorbed into the porous ground.  Within hours to days, the only signs of recent water works are debris piles and mud flats.  But water has shaped the character of this rugged desert back county for thousands of years. Running water has scoured channels, chiseled cliffs and leached precious minerals from the area’s volcanic and sedimentary rocks thus attracting mining operations and ranchers to this otherwise desolate land 30 miles west of Phoenix.

Water disappears quickly in this desert waterway

The trek begins where Little San Domingo Wash merges with the course of the Hassayampa River.  Because water is constantly altering the terrain, this is a hunt-and-peck sort of hike.  Head left (south) from the wash and follow the riverbed. Although there’s no standard path, it’s 

advisable to dodge your way around the willows and debris and hike close to the cliffs on the west bank of the river.  

Many gates along the way remind that this is cattle country

At roughly the half-mile point, a gate near a huge saguaro marks where a rough dirt road parallels the river, it’s a short but scenic diversion and a nice change from walking in sand and mud.  At the 1.5-mile point, first glimpses of Red Cliff come into view.  

The scoured course of the Hassayampa River

The brilliant red-orange escarpment soars to 2,091 feet--360 feet above the river.  Mesquite, Palo verde and ironwood trees huddle at its base while raptors and vultures roost in its many nooks and shallow caves.

Many dirt roads weave through the hills around the river

Although this stony piece de resistance is the main objective of the hike, the trek may be extended by passing a barbed wire gate at the 2-mile point (the first of several that control the roamings of domestic cattle) and continuing south as far as you like.

Desert trees and shrubs thrive at the base of Red Cliff

LENGTH: 4 miles to Red Cliff and back

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 1,710 – 1,771 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to State Route 74 (Carefree Highway).  Take SR 74 west (toward Wickenburg) for 30 miles to U.S. 60. Turn left and go 0.8-mile on U.S. 60 to Gates Road at milepost 121, turn right and continue 2.3 miles to the trailhead at Little Domingo Wash. Do not park within a quarter-mile of the livestock water tank and respect private property in the area. Access roads are paved.

GOLDFIELD MOUNTAIN VIEWPOINT

GOLDFIELD MOUNTAIN VIEWPOINT

Snow-covered Superstition Mtns seen from Bulldog Canyon

Brittlebush bloom along the roads

 Tucked into a rumpled space at the fringe of suburbia, the Goldfield Mountains north of Apache Junction are rife with exploratory hiking opportunities. 

Destination (center on ridge) visible from the trailhead

This rugged slice of the Tonto National Forest located south of Saguaro Lake and the Salt River is hemmed in by State Route 88, the Superstition Wilderness, Four Peaks Wilderness, Usery Mountain Recreation Area and the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation Reservation.  It’s a strangely beautiful place of mostly volcanic origins.

Magnificent rock formations in Bulldog Canyon

Wildly contorted buffs, welded ash pillars, eroded hills and natural arches hover over jumbled washes and acres of gorgeous Sonoran Desert vegetation.

Although there are few designated hiking trails in the area, old roads cut by defunct mining operations and ranches serve just as well.  Venturing within the Goldfields is not for inexperienced or directionally-challenged visitors.  But within the heavily-used Bulldog Canyon section, finding your way around isn’t too difficult.

Snow on Four Peaks and Sierra Ancha Mountains 11-30-19

One simple starter hike in the Bulldog Canyon area leads to a small peak at the end of a ridge with panoramic vistas that provide a tempting  overview of the lay of the land. The tour begins at the Dome Mountain Trailhead where a gate marks the entrance to the Bulldog Canyon OHV recreation area. The destination, marked by FAA communication towers, teeters on a high crest the to the west.  Start hiking north on the dirt road (Forest Road 10) which is open to motorized traffic, equestrians, bikers and hikers. Follow the cholla-lined track to the 0.3-mile point where Forest Road 1356 head off to the right. For this trip, veer left and stay on FR 10. Ahead, magnificent views of Dome Mountain (3,381 feet), the highest point in the Goldfields soars above the hilly terrain while the hulking form of the Flatiron and Superstition Ridgeline loom to the southeast.  At just under a mile, where two sign posts mark where FR 10 swerves east (right), make note of an unsigned road heading downhill on the left. This is the optional return route. As the road makes a gradual ascent, views of the Four Peaks and Sierra Ancha Mountains begin to peek out over ridges and mesas to the east.

A short, steep climb leads to high point vistas

Flatiron is a commanding presence on the hike

To reach the peak, continue another 0.1-mile straight ahead, veer left at a 3-way junction and pass a white road gate. Here’s where the route begins a moderate climb on long switchbacks. Soon, gaps in the volcanic terrain frame views of the Salt River Valley and distant Mount Ord to the north.  After few more bends in the road, the peaks of the Superstition Wilderness can be seen to the east.

Horses and ATVs climb the summit ridge

 At the top of the road, an FAA station built into the base the ridgeline’s southern promontory, marks the beginning a short, steep climb to a highpoint with wind-sculpted shallow caves and 360-degree views of the Valley and beyond. On clear days, you can see as far away as the mountains near Tucson and the Mogollon Rim. 

Rich Sonoran Desert plants grow in Bulldog Canyon

North views extend to Mt Ord and the Mogollon Rim

When done ogling the landscape, head back down the hill to the double-signed FR 10 junction. For an optional, more difficult return route, take the road going downhill to the right which roughly follows the overhead powerlines. This option has more ups-and-downs and is steeper than FR 10. Otherwise, just retrace your steps on FR 10 back to the trailhead. Both options are nearly the same length.

An FAA site sits below the hike high point.

LENGTH:  3.6 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 2,011 – 2,490 feet       

GETTING THERE:

Dome Mountain Trailhead

From U.S. 60 in Apache Junction, take the Idaho Road exit 196 and go 4.4 miles north to McKellips Road.

Turn right (east) on McKellips and continue 0.4-mile to Wolverine Pass Road, turn left (north) and go 0.8 miles to Tonto Street  where the pavement ends.  Turn right and go 0.2-mile to Cactus Road, turn left and continue 0.2-mile to the parking area. 

INFO:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/tonto/recarea/?recid=35555

Arizona Geological Survey

http://repository.azgs.az.gov/category/place-keywords/goldfield-mountains

-->

MARICOPA TRAIL: WHITE TANK-GRAND AVENUE SEGMENT

MARICOPA TRAIL: WHITE TANK-GRAND AVENUE SEGMENT

MULE DEER TRAIL

White Tank Mountain Regional Park

Hikers traverse a ridge on the Maricopa Trail

Most succinctly stated, the Maricopa Trail is a microcosm of the Valley of the Sun.

Over its 317-mile course, the non-motorized recreational trail connects 10 county parks, wanders through open desert and farmland, tethers to suburbs and urban centers and passes by the canals, dams and lakes that deliver water to the one of the largest and fastest-growing areas in the Southwest.

Beautiful White Tank Mountains

Hikers pass among ironwood trees along the Maricopa Trail

If you want a walking tour of the Valley’s diverse nature, this is your hike.

The Maricopa Trail represents decades of planning, development and construction in partnership with Maricopa County, Maricopa Board of Supervisors, Maricopa County Parks and Recreation Department and dozens of volunteer organizations and individuals that contribute time and resources to build and maintain the trail.  Phase 1 of the project (completion of the Valley-circumnavigating loop) was completed earlier this year. Phase 2 will roll out this year with designs for a spur trail that will connect with the planned 70,000-acre Vulture Mountain Regional Park in Wickenburg that’s on track to open in 3-5 years.  The trail is a huge accomplishment that few communities across the country can match.

“I talk with many county park directors across the country and they are envious of what we have in the Maricopa Trail,” said R.J. Cardin Director, Maricopa County Parks and Recreation Department. 

Board members of the MT + Park Foundation at MuleDeer TH

The trail is organized into 20 segments, each with multiple trailheads and walk-in access points that tie together existing trails, roads and fresh-built paths.

Every section presents a unique snapshot of every corner of the county. From the rugged backcountry of the far north Valley that runs through Tonto National Forest to easy water-centric strolls at Lake Pleasant and easy family favorites like the sandy trails in San Tan Mountain Regional Park.  No matter where you live in the Valley, chances are, you’re not too far from the Maricopa Trail.

“To me, the Maricopa Trail is a fast and easy way to escape the city and be one with nature,” said Bill Klewer, Volunteer Coordinator, Maricopa County Parks and Recreation Department.

“I really appreciate that the trail can be accessed in so many locations throughout the county.”

Kiosks similar to this one are being installed on the trail

With so many options, where do you start?  The county parks are a good choice for those just getting to know the trail.  Well-signed and impeccably-groomed, the sections of the trail that run through parks are low-risk, amenity-rich gateways.  One west valley segment to try is the where the trail shares space with the Mule Deer Trail in White Tank Mountain Regional Park in Waddell. The park map shows multiple ways to incorporate the trail into a day hike or long-distance trek. 

A scenic spot on the Mule Deer segment of the MT

A pleasant out-and-back suggestion begins at the Mule Deer trailhead. Head south and follow the dirt single track that traces the park’s southeast boundary through rumpled washes and lush stands of ironwoods and Palo verde trees that clutter moist drainages.  A brief uphill climb lands hikers on a ridgeline with vistas of patchwork grids of cotton fields and subdivisions, agricultural flatlands and distant city high rises.  All around, a fringe of mountain ranges circles the Valley.

Far-reaching vistas are a signature feature of the MT.

Up close, the White Tank Mountains, bolster the trail’s western edge while the Sierra Estrella, Cave Creek and Bradshaw Mountain appear as hazy mounds on the distant horizons. 

Saguaros tower over a wash on the Maricopa Trail

The route drops back down to the desert floor slipping among picnic sites in an unassuming gnarled path. At the 2.25-mile point, the trail meets a junction where a spur path leads to the nature center, a must-see stop when visiting the park.  For a quick sampler hike, the nature center makes for a good turn around point, unless, this snippet of a larger entity has inspired you to tackle the entire trail.  Fall through spring is the perfect time to explore the Maricopa Trail. And with new kiosk signs designed by the nonprofit Maricopa Trail + Park Foundation and manufactured with a grant from REI Co-op being placed at new access points across the Valley in the coming weeks, navigating the course will be easier and more attainable than ever.  

The trail traces the park's southeast edge

The nature center at White Tank Regional Park

The Maricopa Trail connects 10 county parks

LENGTH: 4.5 miles out-and back as described here, 17.2 miles entire segment.

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION:  1,506 – 1,377 feet

GETTING THERE:

White Tank Mountain Regional Park

20304 W. White Tank Mountain Road, Waddell, AZ

From Phoenix, take Interstate 10 west to the Loop 303 North exit.  Go north on Loop 303 and exit at Northern Avenue. Go left (west) at the off ramp and continue west on Northern to Cotton Lane. Turn right (north), go 1 mile to Olive Avenue, turn left (west) and go 4 miles to the park entrance.

FEE: $7 daily fee per vehicle

FACILITIES: restrooms, water, picnic areas, horse staging, nature center, camping (fee)

INFO:

https://www.maricopacountyparks.net/park-locator/white-tank-mountain-regional-park/park-activities/hiking/

Maricopa Trail + Park Foundation

https://mctpf.org/

AGUA FRIA RIVER OVERLOOK

AGUA FRIA RIVER OVERLOOK

Agua Fria National Monument

A hiker at an overlook above the Agua Fria River

Few things make hikers cringe more than seeing smoke rising from treasured hiking hubs. Hiker ire was raised earlier this year when the Badger Springs Fire broke out along Interstate 17 south of Cordes Junction. 

Rock pinnacles along BLM Route 9003 in AFNM

The June 2019 blaze consumed 2,525-acres of brush and high grasses in the Agua Fria National Monument near the popular Badger Springs Wash trail.  The ashen burn scar is still visible from the freeway and an acrid tang still rises with early morning fog.

Hikers make the 400-foot ascent to a scenic overlook

Despite the difficulties of managing fire incidents like this one that involve steep, inaccessible terrain, the monument’s mile-long signature trail mostly escaped major damage.  Telltale signs of the fire mar the surrounding grasslands and vertical cliffs that bolster the Agua Fria River canyon, but leafy riparian corridors remain unscathed. 

A pollinator alights on a buckwheat shrub along the road

Even though the drive-by perspective of the fire damage is quite severe, this should not be a deterrent to exploring the trails and back roads of the 71,000-acre national monument.  Although the Badger Springs Wash trail is a great place to sample the many aspects of the monument’s terrain, it barely scratches the surface in terms of grasping the scope of its natural resources and cultural importance. To fill in the gaps, during dry conditions the short hike may be extended by scooting around boulders and soggy sandbars in the rugged water channel or by trekking nearby dirt tracks.

The hike follows BLM Route 9003

Many walkable roads delve deeper into the site’s remote corners and scenic high points. One such road that leads to a heart-stirring overlook spins off just yards from the Badger Springs Wash trailhead.  Bureau of Land Management Route 9003 swerves away from the busy parking area through what initially looks like a not-too-interesting swath of scrubland. Look carefully to the northeast, and the barely visible road cut can be seen crawling up the flanks of a barren mesa.

The first quarter mile of the route is a little tricky to navigate, but once past a maze of unsigned roads that spin off the primary track, the route is obvious. Here’s how it works.

Trailing Four O'Clock is a common bloomer along the hike

Lone junipers provide spotty shade along the hike

From the parking area, continue hiking on the road you drove in on where it heads north from the Badger Springs trailhead. 

The hike begins with a crossing of Badger Springs Wash

Pass a pair of circular turn outs, drop into a drainage and veer right at a fork at the 0.1-mile point. Walk across the sprawling, sandy corridor of Badger Springs Wash and bear right at a second fork where there’s a sign for BLM road 9003.  From this point, the route is easy to follow.

Highpoint views if the Agua Fria River and Perry Mesa

The narrow, choppy 4x4 road climbs roughly 400 feet among outcroppings of volcanic rock, cacti and sporadic junipers. To the west, the peaks and ridges of the Bradshaw Mountains and Castle Creek Wilderness in Prescott National Forest rise high above Black Canyon and endless strips of open rangeland.

Cross a cattle guard midway through the hike

At the 0.6-mile point, pass a cattle guard and continue straight ahead descending along a steep, ragged bend where the fire left a patchwork of scorched earth and pockets of survivor hackberry shrubs.  

Breathtaking Bradshaw Mountain views punctuate the hike

Another half-mile haul of huff-and-puff hiking culminates at a crest overlooking Perry Mesa and the twisted gorge of the Agua Fria River. 

The June 2019 Badger Springs Fire affected the area

This pinnacle is located almost d

BLM Route 9003 is rocky and steep

irectly above the point where the Badger Springs Wash trail meets the river and a heritage site with petroglyph panels.

This mind-clearing platform affords a perfect spot for contemplating scenes of a landscape where ancient inhabitants once occupied dozens of major communities, outposts and agricultural plots.  Situated among a string of power lines, the faint hum of traffic on Interstate 17 and the scribble of Bloody Basin Road meandering in the distance, the lofty post frames a juncture of heritage sites and modern technology that bridges the divide between feral and frenetic.

Hikers approach the scenic overlook site

LENGTH: 2.6 miles roundtrip  or  4.6 miles with Badger Springs Wash

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 3,093 – 3,456 feet or 2,,900 – 3,456 feet with Badger Springs Wash.

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, go 40 miles north in Interstate 17 to the Badger Springs exit #256.  Follow Badger Springs Road 1 mile (past the main kiosk and restroom) to the Badger Springs trailhead. Dirt and gravel access road is passable carefully-driven sedans. 

INFO: Agua Fria National Monument

https://www.blm.gov/visit/agua-fria