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Wednesday, January 8, 2020

PHOENIX Magazine The Hike Book


PHOENIX Magazine The Hike Book


If you love hiking, check out my new book.
From the makers of PHOENIX magazine
this 8” x 10”, 256 page, full-color, gift-able book is a guide to 228 Arizona trails. Winter visitors, newcomers and life-long residents alike will use this book to travel beyond the crowded usual places to discover amazing desert treks, mountain ascents, watery walks and forest rambles. The straightforward, visually-rich volume is organized by state regions with clear descriptions of difficulty levels, lengths, kid appeal and interesting things to look for along the way. 
Curated with hikers of all levels of experience in mind, this beautifully-illustrated collection will be a go to
source for building an Arizona hiking check list.
Proudly produced and printed in ARIZONA. 
Support local.
  

WHERE TO FIND IT:

Costco, Walgreens, REI, Summit Hut (Tucson)
Sprouts, Barnes & Noble, AJ’s,  Whole Foods, 
Just Roughin’ It, 
Phoenix Sky Harbor - PHOENIX magazine Best of the Valley Store 

Order online.
 

Monday, January 6, 2020

PANTHER PEAK WASH


PANTHER PEAK WASH
Saguaro National Park, Tucson Mountain District.
Panther Peak (center distance) looms over Panther Peak Wash
Situated in an airy wilderness in the northwest sector of Saguaro National Park, Panther Peak Wash trail delves into an unusual niche of the park’s varied eco-zones.
Panther Peak (L) and Safford Peak (R) from Cam-Boh trail
The trail sits at the base of a ragged ridgeline dominated by Safford Peak (3,563 feet) and Panther Peak (3,435 feet) and follows the sandy course of a desert drainage that funnels runoff from the surrounding Tucson Mountains. 
Saguaros grow above the sandy course of Panther Peak Wash
A bobcat footprint in Panther Peak Wash
A popular way to approach this hike is to make a loop by tying in the Cam-Boh and Roadrunner trails.
Santa Catalina Mtns seen from Panther Peak Wash trail
From the parking lot at the Cam-Boh picnic area, start at the west end of the lot where a map kiosk shows an overview of the route and key topographic features.  
The first leg of the hike follows the Cam-Boh trail 1.3 miles through open desert with clear views of the peaks and the Santa Catalina Mountains to the east. Massive chain fruit cholla, ocotillo and (of course) saguaros grow profusely on the sunny desert plains. The route hops over Prophecy Wash and crosses Picture Rocks Road before connecting with the Panther Peak Wash trail. After a short traipse through more flat desert on a slender single track, the route enters the wash proper. Here, the trail becomes a broad, sandy corridor that weaves among loose rock bluffs, jagged bends, shallow caves and narrow mesquite-shaded passages.
Junction for the Roadrunner trail is easy to miss
Water-scoured banks of Panther Peak Wash
Distant Picacho Peak seen from Roadrunner trail
Flood waters expose tree roots in Panther Peak Wash
Mesquite trees shade a bend in Panther Peak Wash
Environment-shaping power of water is evident on the route
Scoured escarpments, jostled boulders, and piles of twisted plants torn from the roots and smashed into heaps at the base of resilient ironwoods are evidence of the environment-shaping power of running water. This is not a hike to do during or shortly following rain storms as you could be injured or swept away.
Throughout the wash leg of the route, the soaring russet form of Panther Peak stands out to the north while a wall of smaller but equally striking pinnacles hover over the trail. 
Striking geological features are plentiful along the loop hike
Between ogling the mountains and curious rock deposits, keep an eye out for the easy-to-miss turnoff for the Roadrunner trail on the left. A small metal sign set roughly 10 feet beyond the bank of the wash marks the start of the 1.4-mile return leg. Standout elements of the final mile that parallels a quiet community of ranch homes are glimpses of Picacho Peak to the northwest and views of a dense saguaro forest blanketing a craggy ridgeline.  
Cholla cacti line the Cam-Boh trail
LENGTH: 4.5 mile loop
RATING: easy
ELEVATION: 2,278 – 2,530 feet
FEE: $15 - $25 for a 7-day pass. Interagency annual passes also accepted.
There’s a scannable QR code at the trailhead kiosk to pay by mobile devise.
Fee free days for 2020: MLK Day Jan 20, April 18, August 25, Sept. 26, Nov. 11
GETTING THERE:
From Interstate 10 in Tucson, take the Ina Road exit 248 and go 2.7 miles west to Wade Road.
Continue 0.6 mile on Wade Road, turn right onto Picture Rocks Road and go 3.5 miles to the Cam-Boh picnic area on the left.  There’s a restroom at the trailhead.
INFO:

Thursday, January 2, 2020

MORMON TRAIL-HIDDEN VALLEY LOOP

MORMON TRAIL-HIDDEN VALLEY LOOP: South Mountain Park.
The Natural Tunnel is a key attraction in Hidden Valley
Theoretically, hikers should be the last people who’d succumb to not being able to see the forest for the trees. The ubiquitous expression describes a common affliction of missing the “big picture” in a haze of minutia.
Lush desert vegetation on the National Trail
Hikers are not immune from its soul-sapping vortex.
Tethered to fitness apps and ear buds, some hikers detach from their surroundings in pursuit of faster times and harder, longer, more remote trails while buying into the assumption that the “best” trails exist in a faraway ether dripping in unattainability and mystique.  
Although few would argue against the benefits of setting and achieving goals, what constitutes a “best” trail is debatable.
Fat Man's Pass is the gateway to Hidden Valley
When approached from a see-the-forest perspective, even oft-maligned, old standard trails can qualify as top destinations. Take, for instance, the Mormon Trail-Hidden Valley Loop in South Mountain Park.  Because it’s located close to town, the route can get very busy.  Social media is replete with negative comments about noisy groups, irresponsible hikers, food scraps, dog poo and painted rocks meant as inspirational gifts left in trees and clefts.  But it’s a mistake to let these spoilers suck all the air out of the room. 
The classic Phoenix circuit has many of the positive components on hiker check lists. Some moderate climbing. Check. Epic views. Check. Heritage sites, gnarly rock passages and hidden finds. Check, check, check. 
The Mormon Trail climbs 700 feet up Neighborhood Can.
Watch for Hohokam rock art on the trails.
Adding to its appeal, this iconic route gets the climbing out of the way at the beginning while legs are still fresh.  The uphill portion on the Mormon Trail crawls 700 feet up Neighborhood Canyon dodging among massive boulders, slickrock corridors and desert flora adapted to South Mountain’s craggy environs. Weathered rock slabs that hang from cliffs form odd sculptures and that frame views of the Valley and surrounding mountain ranges.
Far-reaching vistas on the National Trail
At the 1.2-mile point, a sign marks the junction of two connected loops. To start with the shorter Hidden Valley Loop, continue straight ahead on Mormon Trail and head right on the National Trail.  In just under a half mile, the trail encounters Fat Man’s Pass. A tight squeeze through a slim but short crack between boulders serves as a gateway to Hidden Valley.
Petroglyph panel at the Natural Tunnel
The enchanting half-mile walk in a secluded corridor ends with a passage through a natural tunnel well-known for its rock overhangs, sandy substrate, a petroglyph panel and lush drainage-fed vegetation. Beyond the tunnel, go right at the National Trail junction and follow the route 1.4 miles to the Mormon Loop Trail. Hang a left and walk the 1.1-mile return leg that traces a ridgeline where a major rock art site as well and a wash with many more petroglyphs etched into the rock veneer by the ancient Hohokam people who were active in the area from roughly A.D. 450 to 1450 embellish the trail.
This double loop hike is well-signed throughout.
To protect these irreplaceable heritage sites as well as sensitive vegetation and wildlife habitats, it’s important to stay on trails and not touch or alter anything.
Snow-covered Mt. Ord seen from Mormon Loop 12-31-19
Photographs are encouraged, though.  
A lone Palo verde tree anchors a curve on the National Trail
The big picture take away here is that the Mormon Trail-Hidden Valley Loop is a wonderful hike just a few miles from Downtown Phoenix.  It would be terrible to let distractions asphyxiate its virtues.
Triangle-leaf bursage adds a minty fragrance to the trails
Once we lose our sense of wonder and the ability to see beyond loud, immediate things on a hiking trail, what’s left are rote progressions chronicled on Instagram. 
LENGTH: 6.2 miles
RATING: moderate
ELEVATION: 1,280 – 2,080 feet
GETTING THERE:
From central Phoenix, go south on 7th Avenue to Baseline Road. Turn left (east) and continue to 24th Street. Turn right (south) and to Euclid, turn left and continue a few yards to the trailhead on the right.
INFO & MAPS:

Tuesday, December 24, 2019

Transept Trail

TRANSEPT TRAIL
Many slick rock passages define the Transept Trail
Forming a natural divide between State Route 179 and the hyper-busy trails that loop around iconic Bell Rock in the Village of Oak Creek, the north-south running ridgeline known as the Seven Warriors is home to a pair of trails known for their edge-hugging exposure. 
Transept Trail traces the cliffs of the Seven Warriors ridge
The Hiline Trail that’s part of the Yavapai Vista Trail System, scoots along the ridgeline’s eastern slopes while the newer Transept Trail traces the less congested western side. There are several ways to access the user-created route that was adopted by the forest service in 2018. The most direct way to is begin at the small trailhead along Verde Valley School Road. 
Mayan Maiden formation is a must-see feature along the trail
This less aggressive approach offers a more gradual, smoother gradient than its east side counterpart as well as equally heady views.  The first half-mile makes a steady but mild ascent through cypress-juniper woodlands and jumbled drainages. At the 0.2-mile point, keep an eye out for the Mayan Maiden rock formation that stands at the base of a mass of russet pinnacles to the south. The conspicuous natural sculpture looks convincingly like an elegantly- dressed woman emerging from the stone.
Looking south on the Transept Trail
Views of Cathedral Rock from the Transept Trail
Hardy agaves line the trail
Beyond the Mayan Maiden, the easy walk transitions into a more moderate haul defined by slickrock passages and high-step climbs over crumbling sandstone shelves. Although some slippery loose rock, tricky turns and short sections with stomach-churning deep drop offs require extra effort and steady nerves, the payoff of hiking close to the edge is unobstructed vistas of Cathedral Rock, House Mountain and the flood plains of Oak Creek.  The Transept Trail ends at the 3.2-mile point where is connects with the Hiline Trail. From this high point junction on the nose of a beveled rock jetty with 360-degree views, there are several ways to extend the hike or make a long loop.  Consult the forest service map for details. 
Juniper trees shade the lower part of the trail
High desert woodlands on Transept Trail
Transept Trail is an adopted user-crated route
LENGTH: 6.4 miles out-and-back
RATING: moderate-difficult
ELEVATION:  4,200 – 4,570 feet
GETTING THERE:
From State Route 179 in the Village of Oak Creek, go 2.1 miles west (left through the traffic roundabout ) on Verde Valley School Road to the parking area on the left. The trail begins across the road.
INFO & MAP:


Saturday, December 14, 2019

RED CLIFF

RED CLIFF
Hassayampa River, Wickenburg
Red Cliff is a dominant feature along the Hassayampa River
 Striking in its simplicity, the hike to Red Cliff slips through a spare, water-ravaged landscape just a few miles south of the town of Wickenburg.  Surrounded by the oddly formed peaks of the Vulture and Harquahala Mountains, railroad tracks and acres of shadeless plains, the route is a stomping ground for ATV riders, roaming livestock and a disturbingly robust community of turkey vultures.

Flood debris in the Hassayampa River

Nothing about the dirt staging area at the mouth of Little Domingo Wash screams “gateway to an epic hike”.  
Mud flats define the course of the Hassayampa River
A scraggly fringe of spindly willows, mesquite and invasive tamarisk survive among tire tracks, cow pies and horse apples.  

One of many gates beyond Red Cliff help contain cattle
Small aircraft sometimes glide into a nearby backcountry landing strip and occasional 4x4s hauling trailers rumble over a maze of dusty dirt roads that lead to abandoned mines and homesteads. As stark and unpromising as it appears, this is the start point of an interesting walk that explores the anatomy of a major desert waterway.
Lush desert vegetation grows along the river

This section of the Hassayampa River is a recreational hub
Over its 100-mile length, the Hassayampa River flows through a variety of eco-zones and amazing topography. From its humble source in the pine-covered Bradshaw Mountains south of Prescott to where it empties into the Gila River southwest of Phoenix, the river runs through mountain woodlands, gorges, plains and riparian corridors.
Desert marigolds bloom in the dry river bed.
Except in a few places like the Hassayampa River Preserve at Vulture Mountain Recreation Area along U.S. 60 where water flows above ground year-round, the waterway runs underground.   In this area of the river that’s located about 28 miles north of Interstate 10 and roughly 40 miles north of the Gila River, surface water exists in the form of flash floods and fugitive puddles.  
Invasive tamarisk (salt cedar) is common along the river
Volcanic cliffs flank the Hassayampa River bed
Rain water and snowmelt deposits that roar through the river’s wide corridor are quickly absorbed into the porous ground.  Within hours to days, the only signs of recent water works are debris piles and mud flats.  But water has shaped the character of this rugged desert back county for thousands of years. Running water has scoured channels, chiseled cliffs and leached precious minerals from the area’s volcanic and sedimentary rocks thus attracting mining operations and ranchers to this otherwise desolate land 30 miles west of Phoenix.
Water disappears quickly in this desert waterway
The trek begins where Little San Domingo Wash merges with the course of the Hassayampa River.  Because water is constantly altering the terrain, this is a hunt-and-peck sort of hike.  Head left (south) from the wash and follow the riverbed. Although there’s no standard path, it’s 
advisable to dodge your way around the willows and debris and hike close to the cliffs on the west bank of the river.  
Many gates along the way remind that this is cattle country
At roughly the half-mile point, a gate near a huge saguaro marks where a rough dirt road parallels the river, it’s a short but scenic diversion and a nice change from walking in sand and mud.  At the 1.5-mile point, first glimpses of Red Cliff come into view.  
The scoured course of the Hassayampa River

The brilliant red-orange escarpment soars to 2,091 feet--360 feet above the river.  Mesquite, Palo verde and ironwood trees huddle at its base while raptors and vultures roost in its many nooks and shallow caves.
Many dirt roads weave through the hills around the river
Although this stony piece de resistance is the main objective of the hike, the trek may be extended by passing a barbed wire gate at the 2-mile point (the first of several that control the roamings of domestic cattle) and continuing south as far as you like.
Desert trees and shrubs thrive at the base of Red Cliff

LENGTH: 4 miles to Red Cliff and back
RATING: easy
ELEVATION: 1,710 – 1,771 feet
GETTING THERE:
From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to State Route 74 (Carefree Highway).  Take SR 74 west (toward Wickenburg) for 30 miles to U.S. 60. Turn left and go 0.8-mile on U.S. 60 to Gates Road at milepost 121, turn right and continue 2.3 miles to the trailhead at Little Domingo Wash. Do not park within a quarter-mile of the livestock water tank and respect private property in the area. Access roads are paved.

Monday, December 2, 2019

GOLDFIELD MOUNTAIN VIEWPOINT

GOLDFIELD MOUNTAIN VIEWPOINT
Snow-covered Superstition Mtns seen from Bulldog Canyon

Brittlebush bloom along the roads
 Tucked into a rumpled space at the fringe of suburbia, the Goldfield Mountains north of Apache Junction are rife with exploratory hiking opportunities. 
Destination (center on ridge) visible from the trailhead
This rugged slice of the Tonto National Forest located south of Saguaro Lake and the Salt River is hemmed in by State Route 88, the Superstition Wilderness, Four Peaks Wilderness, Usery Mountain Recreation Area and the Fort McDowell Yavapai Nation Reservation.  It’s a strangely beautiful place of mostly volcanic origins.
Magnificent rock formations in Bulldog Canyon
Wildly contorted buffs, welded ash pillars, eroded hills and natural arches hover over jumbled washes and acres of gorgeous Sonoran Desert vegetation.
Although there are few designated hiking trails in the area, old roads cut by defunct mining operations and ranches serve just as well.  Venturing within the Goldfields is not for inexperienced or directionally-challenged visitors.  But within the heavily-used Bulldog Canyon section, finding your way around isn’t too difficult.
Snow on Four Peaks and Sierra Ancha Mountains 11-30-19
One simple starter hike in the Bulldog Canyon area leads to a small peak at the end of a ridge with panoramic vistas that provide a tempting  overview of the lay of the land. The tour begins at the Dome Mountain Trailhead where a gate marks the entrance to the Bulldog Canyon OHV recreation area. The destination, marked by FAA communication towers, teeters on a high crest the to the west.  Start hiking north on the dirt road (Forest Road 10) which is open to motorized traffic, equestrians, bikers and hikers. Follow the cholla-lined track to the 0.3-mile point where Forest Road 1356 head off to the right. For this trip, veer left and stay on FR 10. Ahead, magnificent views of Dome Mountain (3,381 feet), the highest point in the Goldfields soars above the hilly terrain while the hulking form of the Flatiron and Superstition Ridgeline loom to the southeast.  At just under a mile, where two sign posts mark where FR 10 swerves east (right), make note of an unsigned road heading downhill on the left. This is the optional return route. As the road makes a gradual ascent, views of the Four Peaks and Sierra Ancha Mountains begin to peek out over ridges and mesas to the east.
A short, steep climb leads to high point vistas
Flatiron is a commanding presence on the hike
To reach the peak, continue another 0.1-mile straight ahead, veer left at a 3-way junction and pass a white road gate. Here’s where the route begins a moderate climb on long switchbacks. Soon, gaps in the volcanic terrain frame views of the Salt River Valley and distant Mount Ord to the north.  After few more bends in the road, the peaks of the Superstition Wilderness can be seen to the east.
Horses and ATVs climb the summit ridge
 At the top of the road, an FAA station built into the base the ridgeline’s southern promontory, marks the beginning a short, steep climb to a highpoint with wind-sculpted shallow caves and 360-degree views of the Valley and beyond. On clear days, you can see as far away as the mountains near Tucson and the Mogollon Rim. 


Rich Sonoran Desert plants grow in Bulldog Canyon
North views extend to Mt Ord and the Mogollon Rim
When done ogling the landscape, head back down the hill to the double-signed FR 10 junction. For an optional, more difficult return route, take the road going downhill to the right which roughly follows the overhead powerlines. This option has more ups-and-downs and is steeper than FR 10. Otherwise, just retrace your steps on FR 10 back to the trailhead. Both options are nearly the same length.

An FAA site sits below the hike high point.
LENGTH:  3.6 miles roundtrip
RATING: moderate
ELEVATION: 2,011 – 2,490 feet       
GETTING THERE:
Dome Mountain Trailhead
From U.S. 60 in Apache Junction, take the Idaho Road exit 196 and go 4.4 miles north to McKellips Road.
Turn right (east) on McKellips and continue 0.4-mile to Wolverine Pass Road, turn left (north) and go 0.8 miles to Tonto Street  where the pavement ends.  Turn right and go 0.2-mile to Cactus Road, turn left and continue 0.2-mile to the parking area. 
INFO:
Arizona Geological Survey
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