Perkins Tank and JD Dam Lake

Two Tank Trek: Perkins Tank and JD Dam Lake

Kaibab National Forest

Perkins Tank attracts myriad wildlife.

Southeast of Williams, a string of fishing holes hiding on the north rim of Sycamore Canyon Wilderness attract anglers, wildlife watchers, birders, runners and day hikers in search of atypical forest treks. 

Alfalfa blooms around Perkins Tank

Watch for dragonflies darting among reeds at Perkins Tank.

Clustered among pine forests and sunny prairies along scenic backwoods roads 20 miles south of town, Perkins Tank and JD Dam Lake comprise a water-centric tour of the Kaibab National Forest’s southern sector.

A hiker photographs birds at JD Dam Lake.

Although both ponds are stocked occasionally with rainbow trout, neither is a very productive fishery. Light visitation along with their locations off main roads make these secluded alcoves excellent places to view the myriad critters that come to their shores to drink and wallow. This two-stop circuit combines short walks around waterholes with a sweet scenic drive for a day of easy exploring. We begin at the northern most site and work our way south.

A 0.25-mile trail flanks Perkins Tank.

Trees and lush aquatic vegetation in JD Dam lake.

Perkins Tank is a 3.5-acre catch-and-release trout fishery that averages 10 feet in depth. Sitting at a summer-comfortable 6800 feet in elevation, the tiny pond has been adopted by the Northern Arizona Flycasters (http://nazflycasters.com/naf-history/), a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation of fisheries in the Flagstaff and Williams areas.

Acres of water smartweed cover JD Dam Lake

The organization worked with land management agencies on projects to remove destructive sediments and install structures that both improved wildlife habitats and fishing access.  Although the tank can be reached by way of a rough dirt road, a better option for hikers is to park along the main artery access road and walk 1.4 miles to the trailhead. Because the lakes are located just far enough away from major recreation sites (White Horse Lake and Sycamore Canyon Rim Trail) and heavily travelled roads to offer wildlife sanctuary, you’re almost guaranteed to spot elk splashing about in the reeds if you arrive early in the morning. One of the first things you’ll notice here is a cacophony of singing bullfrogs and squawking birds. The ubiquitous croaking and screeching of the amphibious chorus makes an apt soundtrack for the clouds of dragonflies that dance among shoreline vegetation.

Bullfrogs (center) serenade at both lakes.

 

Perkins Tank dam makes for a great viewing platform.

Penstemon and other wildflowers bloom near the ponds.

A quarter-mile, out-and-back trail traces the tank’s north shore and crosses the earthen dam that contains the water.  Find a secluded spot camouflaged by a tree or rushes, sit awhile and be amazed at the dozens of species of local fauna whizzing past.

A dragonfly darts among reeds at JD Dam lake

The marshy backwaters of JD Dam Lake.

Hikers spot a group of elk wallowing at Perkins Tank.

Two walk-able peninsulas jut into JD Dam Lake.

A few miles down the road, JD Dam Lake is roughly twice the size of Perkins Tank.  The six-acre trout pond features two walk-able peninsulas that jut into the lake’s weedy waters. Whereas Perkins Tank is surrounded mostly by pine-oak woodlands, this pond swells with willows and aquatic plants including acres of water smartweed and emerald green marshes.  Because of its drive-up access, this little gem is a popular stop-off for fishing, floating a pontoon, wildlife watching and enjoying a picnic lunch.  Pack a pair of binoculars to view the waterfowl, frogs and wild turkeys that thrive in the marshy perimeters where shoreline footpaths are sometimes obliterated by flattened reeds, soggy backwaters and hip-high grasses. Explore with care and steer clear of anglers casting lines and gaggles of marauding geese.

A beautifully stripped dragonfly at Perkins Tank.

LENGTH:

Perkins Tank:  4 miles out-and-back

J.D. Dam: 1.2 miles out-and-back

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 

Perkins Tank: 6925 - 6815 feet

JD Dam Lake: 6458 feet

GETTING THERE:

Perkins Tank:

From Williams, go 8.2 miles south on 4th Street (County Road 73/ Perkinsville Road) to Forest Road 110 (White Horse Lake Road). Turn left (east) and go 4.6 miles to Forest Road 3281 on the right. Park along the road and hike the road to the lake. Those with high-clearance vehicles may opt to drive the narrow, bumpy road 1.4 miles to the lake. There’s a restroom at the trailhead.

JD Dam Lake:

From Perkins Tank, return to Forest Road 110, turn right and continue to Forest Road 109 (signed for White Horse Lake and JD Dam). Turn left and go 2 miles to Forest Road 12 then follow the signs 5 miles to JD Dam.  There’s a restroom at the trailhead.

INFO:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/fishing/recarea/?recid=11663&actid=42

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CRATER LAKE

CRATER LAKE, Coconino National Forest

Crater Lake fills the vent of an extinct cinder cone

The light, porous cinders that put a roll and crunch in your step on the mountain trail that leads to Crater Lake belie the site’s fiery origins.  When viewed from the dusty dirt roads that pass by its base, the 8460-foot-high cinder cone volcano blends in with dozens of another mundane hills that dot the  Coconino National Forest 20 miles northwest of Flagstaff.  

San Francisco Peaks seen from Crater Lake volcano.

But a surprise at trail’s end makes this little mountain special.

During their active phases, cinder cone volcanoes live fast and furious lives. Although they are like a fly-in-the-soup in terms of igneous impact on the landscape when compared to the likes of other nearby volcanic mountains like the San Francisco Peaks or Kendrick Peak, these spitfires leave interesting residuals.

Kendrick Peak is visible through most of the hike

Crater Lake volcano seen from Forest Road 760

View from the road leading to Crater Lake

The conical hills that rarely break 1000 feet in height form when gas-propelled lava blasts from the earth in what has been described as “curtains of fire”. The bubbly spatter flies high into the sky cooling quickly into bits of ash, cinders (scoria) and pock-marked blobs that fall back to earth to form mound of  pyroclastic debris around the central vent.

Wright's Bluets bloom May through September

The process continues over months to decades before the eruption runs out of gas, the fireworks subside and a belch of viscous lava signals the end of the hill’s active period. Thousands to millions of years later, some of these spent magma geysers have taken on second lives as hiking destinations and tourist attractions.  Of the roughly 600 cinder cones in the San Francisco Volcanic Field in northern Arizona, several are well-known natural wonders.  The collapsed walls of Red Mountain expose complex volcanic structure while the young, intact Sunset Crater and its raw lava flow is an outdoor science festival.

Butter and Eggs bloom on the summit road

Others, like the Crater Lake volcano, live a less-showy, but intriguing retirement. The trek to this quiet geological find is an easy stroll on backroads below the east face of Kendrick Peak.  Begin hiking on Forest Road 9009D--a rough two-track--through piney cattle country. At the 0.8-mile point, a series of berms mark where the road has been decommissioned and closed to motorized travel. Follow the road scar another 0.2-mile to Forest Road 9009V on the right which swerves onto the mountain for a moderate half-mile climb to the rim of the crater. This short climb packs in some terrific views of the San Francisco Peaks, Crowley Park (an open meadow area) and Kendrick Peak.

San Francisco Peaks loom southeast of Crater Lake

 

Crater Lake approach.

Approaching Crater Lake

At the top of the trail, a wood cattle fence serves as a gateway to the jewel of the hike.  Directly ahead, a shallow pond shaded by pines and firs fills the basin that was the volcano’s central vent.  Alive with lush grasses and wildflowers, the aspen-ringed paradise is wrapped in a crusty rim of ragged stone.  A walk around the boggy, bowl-like depression reveals evidence of abundant wildlife activity. Footprints and scat speak to the importance of this watering hole to resident elk, deer, racoons, bear and birds.

A log soaks in Crater Lake

East flanks of Kendrick Peak tower over Crater Lake

Within this cloistered hollow, the hush and rustle of leaves makes it difficult to imagine that hot vapors and flames once spewed from the eroded vent.  Sometimes, in the early morning hours, the crater emulates its origins when the summer sun coaxes a smoke-like mist from the dewy swale. 

Volcanic ejecta on Crater Lake volcano

LENGTH: 3 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7,955 – 8,460 feet

GETTING THERE: From Flagstaff, go 18.3 miles north on U.S. 180 to Forest Road 760 (just past milepost 234). Turn left and continue 0.9 mile and bear right at a fork. At 1.1 mile, continue straight ahead at the crossroads for the Kendrick Snowmobile trails. From this point, continue 1.0 mile to Forest Road 9009D on the left. The road sign is located roughly 100 feet in from the FR760 and is easy to miss. Park in the roadside pullouts. 

COUNTRY CLUB TRAIL

COUNTRY CLUB TRAIL, Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Mount Baldy seen from Pat Mullen Mountain

The White Mountains TRACKS Trail System is a loopy network of non-motorized paths that spans a strip of the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest from Linden to Vernon in northeastern Arizona’s White Mountains. 

Cattle graze in Whitcomb Pasture June - October

The approachable, customizable trails offer dozens of options ranging from easy strolls located just steps from town to long distance backwoods excursions. Eleven major loops are tethered by connector trails that enable seamless travel for challenging day hikes or multi-day backpacking.

Meadow salsify bloom June through September

The route passes through several rustic gates

Fendler's ceanothus shrubs grow along Country Club Trail

At the heart of the system, the towns of Show Low and Pinetop-Lakeside provide plenty of jumping off points for exploring this diverse system that encompasses a wide range of environs including arid pinyon-juniper grasslands, humid creekside corridors and fragrant pine woodlands.

Natural picnic seating on the summit of Pat Mullen Mtn.

A good introductory TRACKS choice is the Country Club Trail. Located just a few miles off State Route 260 in Pinetop-Lakeside, the 3.25-mile loop is a pleasant walk through shady forests and spring-fed meadows.  From the trailhead kiosk, the hike begins as a mellow meander in sun-spackled pine-oak woodlands.  Like all TRACKS trails, this one has excellent signage.  Tree tags point the way and location markers placed roughly every quarter mile correspond with maps available online and at the trailhead let hikers know exactly where they are on the route. Where the trail crosses the many dirt roads in the area, be sure to locate the next marker before proceeding to keep from wandering off course. 

White Mountains vistas seen from Pat Mullen Mtn.

Fleabane is a common high-country summer plant

Pine-oak woodlands on the Country Club Trail

Watch for trail markers where the route crosses forest roads

About a mile in, the trail passes a gate and enters Whitcomb Pasture. From June through October, cattle graze in the dewy fields nurtured by the dribbles of Whitcomb and Chipmunk Springs. Beyond the meadows, the trail begins a mild climb on the flanks of Pat Mullen Mountain.  

The half-mile vista spur has great views

For glimpses of classic White Mountains vistas, take the optional half-mile spur path that ascends 300 feet to the 7,612-foot summit. 

Rocky Mountain irises bloom in Whitcomb Pasture

Although the short climb is smothered in pines, oaks and  a few spectacular specimens of ancient Alligator junipers, views of the surrounding terrain can be seen through breaks in the foliage.

Enormous Alligator junipers shade the Pat Mullen Mtn spur

The massive form of Mount Baldy (11,403’), Blue Ridge Mountain (7,656’) and numerous cinder cone volcanoes jut above seemingly endless swaths of trees. 

Wild roses grow in moist areas along the trail

Although views are sparse on the summit, huge basalt shelves and jumbled boulders provide ample seating for a snack break or breather before taking on the final easy mile back to the trailhead.

Gate at Whitcomb pasture

A pine sapling sprouts near a common mullein plant

Snow lingers on 11,403 foot Mt. Baldy

LENGTH: 3.25-mile loop or 4.25 miles with the Pat Mullen Mountain spur.

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7200 – 7612 feet

GETTING THERE:

In Pinetop-Lakeside go south on State Route 260 (White Mountain Blvd.) to the traffic signal at Buck Springs Road at milepost 355.  Continue 0.6 mile and turn left onto to Sky Hi Road (Forest Road 182).  Follow Sky Hi Road 1.8 miles to the 632 trailhead on the right at the junction with Forest Road 185. All access roads are sedan friendly.

INFO: White Mountains Tracks Trail System

https://www.trackswhitemountains.org/trails/

DAVENPORT HILL

DAVENPORT HILL: Kaibab National Forest

Dogtown Lake & Bill Williams Mtn from Davenport Trl

Situated in the far southwest corner of the San Francisco Volcanic Field--a swath of impressive igneous features that arcs from the northern Arizona town of Williams to Flagstaff-- Davenport Hill is an anthill among giants.

Pines frame views of Kaibab National Forest

The 7805-foot mesa-like mound near Dogtown Lake 8 miles southeast of Williams barely registers a blip on hiker radar and recedes when compared to nearby lava domes and composite volcanoes like Bill Williams Mountain (8,800 feet), San Francisco Peaks (12,633 feet) and Kendrick Peak (10,418 feet).  Like its contemporary mounts, Davenport Hill sports a scenic trail that leads to its summit. For a less physically-demanding but rewarding summit trek, a hike up this little hill delivers the goods without the pain.

Summit of 7805-foot Davenport Hill

Lupines thrive in oak woodlands on Davenport Hill

Deeply wooded for its entire length, the trail twists up the hill’s north face through several vegetation zones, terrain types and vista orientations for a continually-changing sensory experience.   

Small-leaf pussytoes bloom May - August

The trek begins on the Ponderosa Trail, a 1-mile interpretive loop that passes through pine forests at the edge of green wetlands behind the Dogtown Lake dam. The moist swale that bisects this easy loop is a magnet for mountain bluebirds, robins, Steller’s jays, waterfowl, elk, bears and furry critters. In summer the moist drainage area fosters Rocky Mountain irises and dozens of other high-elevation wildflowers that add color to the forest floor. At the 0.3-mile point, turn right at the Davenport Hill trail sign where the route passes a gate before taking on the mountain in a leisurely mix of short, steep climbs and lingering inclines. Although the trail ascends 755 feet, flowing switchbacks take most of the sweat and toil out of the climb. The first mile is an effortless stroll through woodlands of Gambel oak, Ponderosa pines and sunny clearings. The uphill trudge begins where the trail crosses unsigned Forest Road 717 and moves onto the first of several edge-hugging switchbacks.

Wetlands on the Ponderosa Trail

Now comes the best part—breaks in the tree cover reveal views of the mountains and prairies of the Kaibab National Forest and the faint clank and hum of passing trains.

A hike around Dogtown Lake adds 1.8 miles to the hike

Look carefully in the direction of the mournful rattles and horns and you might spot a train snaking across the plains. On clear days, the bright white turbines of the Perrin Ranch Wind Energy Center can be seen dotting the plains 13 miles north of Williams.

White firs shade the upper portion of the trail

When operating at full capacity, the array of sixty-two, 262-foot-high turbines provide clean energy for more than 20,000 Arizona homes.  Farther up, the trail ducks into a sheer canyon shaded with moss-draped Douglas and white firs.  The slim path traverses the canyon walls landing hikers on the final uphill haul where picture-perfect views of Dogtown Lake and Bill Williams Mountain dominate the horizon.  Once past a second gate (with a stubborn barbed wire latch) the trail emerges on the summit ridge for a short, flat walk to the highpoint.

San Francisco Peaks seen from Davenport Hill summit

Robust stands of oak arch over the footpath that’s lined with lupine and globs of russet basalt that confirm the hill’s volcanic origins. 

Wind turbines visible in the distance

A massive rock pile made of the same reddish lava blobs (and artfully- arranged animal bones) found along the trail marks the summit proper.

Lupines color the forest floor

Beyond the super cairn, views of the San Francisco Peaks stand out on the northeast skyline. Given its position on the dubious side of hiker radar; chances are pretty good that you’ll have this quiet mountain top all to yourself.

Dense tree cover frames great views

A rustic gate marks the summit approach

Descend back to the Ponderosa Trail junction along the same path but take the opposite fork to complete the loop. If you’re still up for more, step out on the informal angler path that circles the lake for an additional, easy 1.8 miles of shoreline hiking around the high-elevation fishing hole that’s prized for its abundant trout, bass and catfish as well as for watercraft recreation.

Bill Williams Mountain looms over Kaibab NF woodlands 

View from the summit of Davenport Hill

LENGTH: 5.6 miles roundtrip (not including lake circumference hike)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7050 - 7805 feet

GETTING THERE:

In Williams, go 3.8 miles south on Fourth Street (County Road 73/Perkinsville Road) to Forest Road 140. Turn east (left) onto FR 140 and go 2.8 miles to Forest Road 132, turn north (left) onto FR 132 and go 1.2 miles to the boat ramp at Dogtown Lake campground. From the boat ramp parking area, follow the Ponderosa Trail 0.2-mile to the Davenport Hill trail junction.

There’s no fee for day-use parking and there are restrooms and picnic tables nearby. Camping is by reservation only.

INFO: Kaibab National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=11671&actid=50