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Tuesday, February 19, 2019

Badger Brawl-Cliff-Walk-Esplanade Loop

Badger Brawl-Cliff-Walk-Esplanade Loop

Phoenix Sonoran Preserve
Mountain views on the Esplanade Trail
If the human brain has a “dangerous things archive”, an image of a roaring desert wash ought to be seared into it. 
This hike exposes the power of running water.
For Arizonans especially, the fear of running water should rank right up there with snakes and heights.  Although storm water raging through usually-dry channels solicits choirs of oohs and ahhs, the flows are definitely not something to mess with.
Creosote smells wonderful after rains.
They can go from trickle to torrent in minutes.  Driving, riding or hiking through them is extremely risky and potentially deadly. Need more evidence? Next time you’re hiking by a creek or wash, look up into the trees. Those wads of debris dangling high above mark where the water was.
Wash and creek bed crossings are key features of the hike.
That’s why it’s always smart to steer clear of trails that cross waterways until the swells subside. It only takes a day or two for the trails and crossings to dry out enough to pass through safely. Also, not using trails when they are wet and soggy helps prevent the kind of damage that ruins drainage systems, creates dangerous conditions and encourages the blazing of “work around” paths that destroy native vegetation.  
Skull Mesa framed by greenery around Apache Wash
A good place to observe the force of water in a desert landscape is in the north sector of the Phoenix Sonoran Preserve. Hedged between the Carefree Highway and Sonoran Desert Drive east of Interstate 17 in north Phoenix, the chunk of pristine desert holds many surprises.
The trails here offer a diverse menu of options including moderate ridgeline rambles, barrier-free strolls and easy explorations of the wily water alleys that permeate the area. 
A healthy saguaro on Badger Brawl Trail.
A hike on the easy-rated Badger Brawl-Cliff Walk-Esplanade loop on the preserve’s far east end is one of the best ways to explore the transformative powers of water.
Using trails when they are wet causes damage like this.
The circuit begins with a short walk on the Apache Wash Trail which traces a ragged drainage fringed with greenery.  Soon, the trail dips into the first of several wash crossings where signs warn not to attempt when water is running. 
Ironwood trees dot the desert plains.
The circuit is flat and easy.
Above the washes, sunny stretches of classic desert are dotted with saguaros, cholla and isolated patches of mesquite and Palo Verde trees that throw bits of shade on a flatland littered with basalt lava blobs and milky quartz.
Filaree or Stork's Bill grows along the trails.
Where the route wanders through open desert, mountain views--dominated by Skull Mesa and Black Mountain to the north--bolster the horizons.  
Heed this warning.
The  2.9-mile Cliff Walk Trail tethers the three legs of the loop with a traverse of the banks above the Cave Creek river channel. Scattered boulders, plant dregs and frazzled edges of the waterway document the ferocity of flash floods.
Phoenix Sonoran Preserve Trails are well-signed.
The return leg of the trip follows the level grade of the Esplanade Trail--an unfettered space of quiet beauty safe from the sporadic deluges of creeks and washes.
Black Mountain (right) seen from Apache Wash Trail.
LENGTH:  8.56 miles
RATING: easy
ELEVATION: 1720 - 1910 feet
GETTING THERE:
Apache Wash Trailhead, 1600 E. Sonoran Desert Drive, Phoenix.
From Loop 101 in north Phoenix, take Cave Creek Road exit 28 and go 4.5 miles north to Sonoran Desert Drive. Turn left (west) and continue 3.5 miles to the trailhead on the right. The preserve is open daily from sunrise to sunset. There are restrooms but no water at the trailhead.
HIKE DIRECTIONS:
From the trailhead, follow Apache Wash Trail (AW) 0.5-mile to Badger Brawl Trail (BB). Continue 1.55 miles on BB to Cliff Walk (CW) and hike it 2.9 miles to where you’ll swing back on the Esplanade Trail (E).  There’s a shortcut roughly halfway up CW that cuts 2.25 miles off the big loop. Follow Esplanade 3.4 miles back to AW, veer left and hike 0.73 mile back to the trailhead.
INFO & MAPS:

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Monday, February 11, 2019

Fay Canyon

Fay Canyon
An impressive rock formation at the end of Fay Canyon Trl.
Loosen the vice grip on your brain’s imagination center and the russet stone escarpments embracing Sedona’s Fay Canyon Trail transform into dragon scales, crouching gremlins and other-worldly beasts.  
Yuccas line the beginning of Fay Canyon Trail
Of course, rousing this kind of magical point-of-view needs some help. A willingness to tap into your inner child, or better yet, hiking with an actual pack of vociferous kids should do the trick.
Yuccas are plentiful in sunny spots on the trail.
Is it a steamboat or castle? Ask a kid. 
When approached without prejudice, expectation or mind-muddling electronic devises, whimsical forms hiding among the trail’s sandstone cliffs seem to pounce from their precipitous perches. 
Sandstone buttes along Fay Canyon Trail.
Letting go of what we know to be true and logical frees the mind to train a playful lens on Sedona’s Secret Canyon Wilderness Area.  
Oaks, pinion pines and junipers close in on the trail.
It’s the “wild” in wilderness areas that sets them apart from forests, parks and other public lands. The 1964 Wilderness Act set a global precedence for protecting unspoiled lands from development and destruction. Undisturbed lands benefit wildlife habitat, watersheds and offer opportunities for responsible recreational use. You can’t drive a motorized vehicle, fly a drone, build a structure or even ride a bike in these special places.  Of Arizona’s 90 protected areas, Sedona’s Red Rock Secret Canyon Wilderness is one of the most attainable and imagination-stoking destinations in the state.  It’s a satisfying trip for expert backpackers and casual day-trippers alike.  Seldom-seen sections (Bear Sign and Secret Canyon Trails) of the a 43,950-acre wilderness are reached by hiking miles into remote back country, while milder excursions are just a few steps from paved roads and plush resorts.  Whether you enter this enchanted zone through a groomed front door or a rickety back gate, you’ll soon understand how the simple act of walking a primal path is as much a privilege as it is a wonder behold.  
Russet cliffs weathered into fantastic forms.
The trail is in Red Rock Secret Canyon Wilderness.
A front-door favorite, the Fay Canyon trailhead on Boynton Pass Road is outfitted with a restroom and plenty of parking.  Just yards from a heavily-travelled byway, the effortless out-and-back trail immediately enters the wilderness, passing through sandy drainages and sunny fields dotted with yucca and twisted manzanita shrubs. As the path narrows, the animated cliffs close in revealing an outdoor art gallery of nature-sculpted shapes. Weathered pinnacles resemble golf tees, hammers, dancers and birds. If you’re hiking with or near kids (a given on this family-friendly trail), listen to some of the names they assign to the rocks. Sponge Bob, Bart Simpson, Pokemon. 
A primitive side trails leads to Fay Canyon Arch.
A half-mile in, a faint path on the right leads to an emerging natural arch. Barely visible from the trail, the true scale of the overhang isn’t apparent until you’re standing beneath it. The optional, quarter-mile diversion requires scrambling on loose rock with some minor exposure but pays off with fly-over vistas and interesting nooks to explore. 
Washes and tangled roots near the end of the trail.
Forests of oak, cypress and pinion pines thicken as the root-and-vine-tangled route dives deeper into the canyon culminating at a boulder-choked wash below a magnificent red rock formation. The sculptural piece de resistance, which stands several stories high, has no name. But its imposing presence and place in the landscape bumps creative thinking into over drive.  Is it a shark fin? An anvil? An alien landing platform? Who can say? The whole point of this excursion is to let your imagination roam wild. If you’re stuck for a name, just follow the kids.
There's easy access to Fay Canyon Trail.
What will you see in Fay Canyon's red rocks?
LENGTH: 1.2 miles one-way
RATING: easy
ELEVATION: 4500- 4800 feet
GETTING THERE:
From the State Route 179/89A traffic circle in Sedona, veer left and go 3.2 miles on SR 89A to Dry Creek Road (Forest Road 152C). Turn right and continue 4.5 miles on Dry Creek Road to the Boynton Canyon Road intersection, turn left

 onto Boynton Pass Road and go 0.5-mile to the trailhead on the left. There’s a restroom at the trailhead. A Red Rock Pass is not required.

INFO:


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Monday, February 4, 2019

Copper Falls Trail

Copper Falls Trail
Copper Falls cascade over stony shelves.
Chasing winter waterfalls is sort of an unofficial rite of passage for Arizona hikers.
With a few blaring exceptions (hello, Havasupai) most of our state’s waterfalls don’t flow continually.  Experienced hikers know that dark-stained cliffs and jumbled drainages visible along trails hold the potential for spectacular waterworks following episodes of rain and snow melt. Some trekkers even adjust their agendas to sync with the rhythm of the rains.
A rustic corral on the Camp Verde Trail section of the hike.
The spur trail to the falls is a bit of a scramble.
Timing is key to catch the transient desert founts at their best. Pick a day after a storm but pay attention to weather reports and road closures as torrential downpours come with a real threat of potentially deadly flooding.
The tiered flow of Copper Falls.
The fugitive waterworks aren’t hard to find.  
Copper Falls Trail traces a ridge above an ancient lake bed. 
A few famous ones like Encinoso Falls in Sedona’s Oak Creek Canyon, Massacre Falls in the Superstition Wilderness, Grand Falls north of Flagstaff, Bridal Wreath Falls in Tucson and the miles of cascades in Barnhardt Canyon flow reliably along established trails during peak conditions. Others though, reside where you’d least expect them.
One such cascade is the crux of Copper Falls Trail No. 504.  Tucked into a pocket of colorfully-layered sediments that separate the Verde River from Interstate 17, this non-motorized route is the result of grass-roots efforts driven by the residents of nearby Camp Verde.
Following years of working together with Prescott National Forest, the Copper Canyon trailhead project came to fruition with the support of donated materials and volunteer labor.  The roomy, well-outfitted recreation hub officially opened in February 2012.
The new site anchors a popular recreation area south of State Route 260 that’s known for its ATV routes and river-access for fishing and paddling.  Trail No. 504 explores above and within a bowl-like depression of an ancient lake bed where limestone and siltstone deposits disrupted by faults and other geological events have eroded into oddly-sculpted buttes, ridges and gullies.
The trailhead & Verde Valley seen from the switchbacks.
Storm clouds obscure views of Sedona to the northwest.
The 4.1-mile, moderate loop hike begins at a gate in the northwest corner of the trailhead.  Hike a few yards then veer left at a pair of generic trail signs where the route begins a mild 300-foot climb to a crest of a ridge. This scenic segment ascends through a bone-dry landscape dominated by Crucifixion-thorn bushes and acres of cacti.
Crucifixtion-thorn shrubs are common along the trail.
Views of the gaping Verde Valley and the emerald river course backed by the hills surrounding West Clear Creek Wilderness roll out to the north and east. A mile in, the trail tops out on a grassy mesa littered with chalky white stones, a fringe of yuccas and patchy forests of junipers, scrub oaks and pinion pines. 
Water from Copper Falls trickles beside the trail.
The muffled rumble of vehicles traveling on Interstate 17 and views of Sedona’s red rocks mark the beginning of an edgy traverse of the oblong mesa above a deeply furrowed basin.  The airy walk ends with a swift descent on long switchbacks that end at a drainage area where a slim footpath heads into a secluded, stonewalled gorge that hides Copper Falls.
Arizona sycamores thrive in the runoff from Copper Falls.
The 0.2-mile one-way path follows an ephemeral creek cluttered with sycamores, willows, log jams and boulders. Some minor route-finding and scrambling are needed to work your way through to the head of the dead-end canyon where tiered cascades tumble over blocky shelves into shallow drop pools.  
A sycamore leaf floats in a drop pool near Copper Falls.
This leafy oasis stands in stark contrast to the arid high desert that surrounds it.
The return leg of the loop passes through mesquite rangeland
The trailhead officially opened in Feb. 2012.
The trail then briefly traces the fall’s trickling issue before meeting the Camp Verde Trail No. 545. 
Water at the base of Copper Falls.
At the junction that’s marked with only a “504” sign, continue straight ahead passing some old native stone foundations. Soon, the terrain transitions into mesquite-covered rangeland with a rickety corral bolstered by ashen limestone embankments.  Just beyond the corral at the 3.9-mile point, another junction marks the final decision point of the hike.
A plaque at the trailhead recognizes contributors.
Head left for a slightly longer return trip to the trailhead or veer right onto the Saloon Trail No. 9833 (not signed) for a shortcut.
MacDougal's Biscuitroot bloom near the trail.
LENGTH: 4.1-mile loop
RATING: moderate
ELEVATION: 3190 – 3533 feet
GETTING THERE:
From Interstate 17 in Camp Verde, take the State Route 260 exit 287. Go 1.6 miles east (toward Payson) on SR 260 to Oasis Drive, turn right (south) and continue 0.3-mile to Forest Road 136, turn right again and go 0.8-mile to the trailhead on the right. FR 136 is washboard-rough dirt but is passable by passenger vehicles.
There are picnic ramadas with grills and a restroom at the trailhead.
The trailhead is open year round from dawn to dusk for day-use only. No fees.
INFO:
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Monday, January 28, 2019

Mesquite Canyon Trail

Mesquite Canyon Trail

White Tank Mountain Regional Park.
Edge-hugging segment of Mesquite Canyon Trail
Towering over cotton fields, citrus groves and an ever-expanding landscape of subdivisions, the White Tank Mountains on the western edge of Metro Phoenix rise to just over 4000 feet.
Mexican gold poppies open in daylight.
For more than 30 million years, tectonic upheavals, volcanic events and erosion have shaped the range into a mass of canyons, ruptured ridgelines and scoured drainages where “white tanks”— depressions in buff-colored granite—retain rain water.  The inhospitable terrain is made approachable by way of the trails within White Tank Mountain Regional Park in Waddell.
Make it a loop with the Willow Canyon Trail if you like.
Poppies galore!
Benches are placed at scenic spots along the first 0.25-mile.
Dainty Desert Hideseed grow in moist clefts.
Excellent views appear in the first mile of hiking.
Complex geology of the White Tank Mountains.
A lone Mexican gold poppy hides among dry grasses.
Long switchbacks ease the climb.
Although the park has many family-friendly, effortless routes, most of its more than 30 miles of trails involve difficult-to-extreme mountain ascents. While challenging hiker-favorites like Ford Canyon and Goat Camp pass through some hazardous sections of loose rock, precipitous edges and steep climbs, Mesquite Canyon Trail rises to equally dizzying heights with fewer obstacles. 
Brittlebush grow along the Mesquite Trail
The route may be accessed at either the main trailhead staging area or at ramada #7.  Starting at the ramada bypasses about a mile of flat, easy hiking and delves right into the uphill trudge.  The first quarter mile follows a roomy dirt track with benches placed at scenic overlooks.
Fragrant desert lavender attracts pollinators.
One of the best features of this trail is that great views can be had after only a short bit of climbing and the vistas continue to improve around every bend. A half-mile in, the lung pumping begins as the trail narrows and takes on a series of long switchbacks that snake up the canyon above a gorge with brilliant white stone at its base and a daisy chain of tanks.  Crowds become noticeably thinner once the path transitions into an edgy traverse of outcroppings of layered metamorphic rocks bent into accordion-like folds and gigantic boulders with peeling veneers.  Tucked among clefts, scree and exposed ledges, springtime wildflowers give reasons to pause on the way up. 
A fresh crop of jojoba fruits ripen on bushes. 
The "white tanks" can be seen at the bottom of Mesquite Cn.
Lush fringes of brittlebush, jojoba and cholla shade patches of Dainty Desert Hideseed, lupine, Emory's rock daisies, globemallow, buckwheat, scorpionweed and bright orange Mexican gold poppies that unfurl when warmed by the afternoon sun.  
Watch for fiddleneck near drainages.
The twisted terrain contains a glut of micro climates that bounce between mossy gullies and parched flats. The varied pockets of shade, sun and moisture foster a vast assortment of blooming plants.  
A scenic point on Mesquite Canyon Trail.
At the 1.8-mile point, you can opt to make an 8.4-mile loop using the Willow Canyon and part of the Ford Canyon Trails, otherwise continue uphill to the trek’s high point and the junction with Goat Camp Trail above Slick Rock Canyon.  This breezy turnaround perch makes for a fine lunch spot before descending among woke poppies.
Globemallow is a common sight in Mesquite Canyon.
Bud on a pink variety of globemallow.
Lupine grow in open areas along the lower trail.
LENGTH: 5 miles one-way from the main trailhead or 4.2 miles one-way from ramada #7
RATING: difficult
ELEVATION: 1540 – 3023 feet
GETTING THERE:
20304 W. White Tank Mountain Road, Waddell.
Construction on Interstate 10 and surface streets in the area may cause detours. Check the Arizona Department of Transportation website for updates. https://www.azdot.gov/home
Follow the main park road to the trailhead staging area or continue to Waterfall Canyon Road and ramada #7. There are restrooms at both sites.
INFO & MAPS:

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