RED MOUNTAIN TRAIL

RED MOUNTAIN TRAIL

Hiking among hoodoos

Few things in life are certain but what we know for sure is; wet dogs stink, Star Trek is great, some hikers think beer is the fifth food group and Red Mountain is one of the most magical places on earth.  Okay, those first three might be dubious, but the last one---an atypical volcano north of Flagstaff--- offers a singular hike that supports the claim.  If you’re looking for a mind-boggling, surreal experience, forget theme park attractions--Red Mountain is the real deal.

View of Red Mountain from the access trail

Located just off Highway 180 north of Flagstaff, the 740,000-year-old cinder cone offers a rare opportunity to walk inside the guts of a formerly explosive geological wonder.  Although the mountain’s fractured and fabulous form is a sight to behold, geologists aren’t certain about what caused its northeast face to slump away exposing the internal structure.

Inside the volcano

Thousands of years of wind and water erosion have sculpted the mountain’s multi-colored layers of volcanic ash and cinders into craggy pillars and honeycomb walls. Along the short, family-friendly access trail that winds through a pinion-juniper forest, views of the gaping U-shaped collapse give a taste of what’s to come. 

The ladder 

At the 1.24-mile point, the trail meets the inky black cinder slopes at the base of the volcano where a wooden ladder must be climbed to get to the good stuff.

Bizarre pillars of ash

Once inside the volcano, hikers are surrounded by 800-foot escarpments, stony passages and wildly contorted rock columns called “hoodoos”.

Hikers explore a stony passage

Footpaths wander among weather-blasted pinnacles, crevasses and pine trees and shrubs that somehow took root in the cracks.  There’s even a short trek through a tight passage where ongoing erosion washes out bits of shiny black hornblende minerals (often mistaken for obsidian) that collect in glinting streams underfoot. Look overhead to see chockstones (boulders caught in cracks) and lava caps that teeter atop grainy spires like fancy hats. Be sure to bring a fully-charged camera or phone to document the adventure in case you’re asked to prove what you know for sure about this Arizona natural treasure.

A hiker emerges from a tight spot

LENGTH: 3 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 6700’ – 7000’

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, go 30.5 miles north on US 180 and turn left at the sign for Red Mountain Trailhead near milepost 247. Dirt access road is passable by passenger vehicle when dry.

INFO: Coconino National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recarea/?recid=55160

SLATE MOUNTAIN TRAIL #128

SLATE MOUNTAIN TRAIL #128

View of San Francisco Volcanic Field from Slate Mountain

There are a couple of curious things about Slate Mountain. First off, there’s no slate and second, the mountain is much bigger than it appears.

Stansbury cliff-rose shrubs grow to 8 feet high

Part laccolith (a mushroom-shaped blob of magma that formed underground) and part volcano (you know: BOOM), the 8215-foot mountain measures only 853 feet from its base to summit, but geologists estimate that the lava dome that makes up the mountain extends to 5000 feet below the surface.

Cliff-rose scents the trail

So, all things considered, Slate Mountain is a considerable beast. The complicated hill is composed mostly of a pinkish-gray igneous rock called rhyolite which is exposed along its flanks.

Heading up the trail

Kendrick Peak

The “slate” misnomer comes from the flaky appearance of some of the sedimentary and igneous rocks that were contorted during the mountain’s eruptive phase that occurred between 1.5 and 1.9 million years ago.

The "slate" is actually rhyolite 

True slate is a metamorphic stone not found in the area. The trail that climbs to the summit of this unassuming little mound north of Flagstaff doles out gratifying treats at a leisurely, constant pace. One of the first points of interest visible from the trail is the scar from the June 2017 Boundary Fire that swept up 10,418-foot Kendrick Peak. The lightning-caused blaze burned more than 17,000 acres, stopping just short of the Slate Mountain trailhead.

Near the top, the trail makes a sharp swing around the high point for a 360-degree visual smorgasbord. To the north, the San Francisco Volcanic Field rolls out over colorful plains dotted with hundreds of cinder cones and eroding craters. This arc of volcanism stretches from Williams to the area around Sunset Crater. Geologist say this hot spot is still active and predict the next eruption will occur near the Little Colorado River.

It could be years, decades or centuries before the next magma breaks the surface, so until then, the summit of Slate Mountain is a great place to contemplate the emergence of a new volcano amidst the quiet beauty of the Painted Desert, the South Rim of the Grand Canyon and the hazy silhouettes of the Hopi Buttes. 

LENGTH: 5 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7360’ – 8215’

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff go 26 miles north on US 180 to Forest Road 191 located just past milepost 242.

Turn left and continue 1.9 miles to the signed junction for Slate Mountain, turn right and go 0.3 mile to the trailhead. Forest Roads are rough dirt and gravel. High clearance vehicles recommended. Mat be impassable in wet conditions.

INFO & MAP:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recarea/?recid=55180

RIO SALADO HABITAT RESTORATION AREA

RIO SALADO HABITAT RESTORATION AREA

Phoenix

Dragonflies live in the riparian corridor

Just two miles south of downtown Phoenix, where the Salt River once flowed freely, a former dumping ground has been transformed into a thriving oasis in the desert.

Hiking in The Rio Salado Habitat Restoration Area is like taking a step back in time to an era before dams placed along the Verde and Salt Rivers in the early 20^th century dried up the channel leaving behind a parched corridor of debris.  Landfills and quarries moved in and the area became blighted. 

The site attracts myriad birds and waterfowl

In 1993, the City of Phoenix began efforts to restore a portion of the river to improve the urban landscape, help in flood management and provide recreation and educational opportunities.  The $100 million project was completed in 2005.

With the cooperation of the Army Corps of Engineers, the Flood Control District of Maricopa County and droves of volunteers, tons of waste were cleared out of the Salt River channel and replaced with ponds, waterfalls and tens of thousands of indigenous plant species.

Watch for herons, egrets and ducks in the secluded coves

Although the 5-mile-long riparian corridor looks as if it sprouted on its own, it’s a “demonstration wetland” that was created by tapping into the groundwater beneath the river channel and pumping more than three million gallons of water per day to sustain the habitat. Stretching from 19th Avenue to 28^th Street, the linear greenway can be accessed via numerous parking areas and trailheads.

Desert Senna

Trail segments are organized to feature specific desert habitats such as Cottonwood-Willow, Lower Sonoran, Mesquite Bosque and Palo Verde Forest.

Desert Willow

Over 76,000 native the plants were harvested from seeds or cuttings within a half-mile of the Salt River are flourishing and attracting wildlife. Snowy egrets, raptors, toads and dozens of other species have settled in. The site has over 14 miles of paved and dirt trails and an Audubon Nature Center.

Audubon Center

When hiking here, remember that this is a sensitive area. Please stay on trails, do not enter the water, leave everything as you found it and keep wildlife wild by observing at a distance and never feed them. Leashed dogs are allowed on the paved trails and handlers must pack out pet waste.

Seventh Avenue Bridge

LENGTH: 14.7 miles total

North Overbank Trail: 3.7 miles one way, paved

South Overbank Trail: 3.9 miles one way, Paved

North Terrace Trail: 3.9 miles one way, dirt

South Terrace Trail: 3.2 miles one way, dirt

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 1010' - 1070'

TRAILHEADS:

2439 S. Central Ave. (Northeast corner)

3212 S. 7th Ave. (Southwest corner)

2801 S. 7th Ave. (Equestrian Staging)

2875 S. 7th St. (Southeast corner)

3203 S. 16th St. (Southeast corner)

HOURS: open daily sunrise to sunset or 7 p.m. whichever comes first

INFO & MAPS:

https://www.phoenix.gov/parks/trails/locations/rio-salado-habitat-restoration-area

PINE LAKES TRAIL #316

PINE LAKES TRAIL #316

Thumb Butte North Trails

Pine Lakes Trail flanks Willow Creek 

Pick a day following a good monsoon soaking to hike Pine Lakes Trail #316.  That way, you’ll have the best chance to see the tiny waterfalls that tumble over logs and rocks in Willow Creek.

Canyon grapes grow along the creek

Arguably the most ecologically diverse route in the north segment of Prescott’s Thumb Butte Recreation Area, trail #316 packs a lot of interesting elements into its short length. The first half-mile of the trek moves through an exposed landscape of juniper and oak under the imposing pinnacle of Thumb Butte.

The trail climbs easily to a point where the Bradshaw Mountains peek out from behind the butte before beginning its descent into the riparian corridor of Willow Creek. 

A post-monsoon mini waterfall

As the trail switchbacks down into the gorge, the vegetation makes an abrupt shift from sparse scrub and cacti to rich greenery shaded by arching oaks and soaring Ponderosa pines. The creek trickles in lazy bends with multiple drainages emptying into its course. Over the next mile, the trail stays close to the water crossing it several times. A pleasant mist laced with the earthy aromas of pine needles, wildflowers and mushrooms drifts through the air. The creek itself is a mix of rapid flows, mini waterfalls, standing pools and rivulet-carved sandbars decorated with critter footprints.

Mushrooms thrive in the moist creek corridor

This is an excellent place to take in the wonders of nature's ecosystems and micro climates. 

A crossing of Willow Creek

Plants found within this moist passage couldn't survive well just a couple hundred feet above on the dry chaparral. And although the distance from ridgeline to creek is minimal, temperatures along the waterway are noticeably cooler. The trail makes one last creek crossing before heading back up to the lip of the gorge where the bare rock mound of Granite Mountain can be seen in the distance. From this point, you can retrace your steps for an out-and-back trip or use the map available at the trailhead to create your own circuit.

Thumb Butte

LENGTH:  1.5 miles one-way

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 5800’ – 5600’

Granite Mountain in distance

GETTING THERE:

From the courthouse in downtown Prescott (Gurley St. and Montezuma), travel 3.4 miles west on Gurley Street (turns into Thumb Butte Road) to the Thumb Butte Recreation Area. To find the trailhead, hike or dive another 0.1 mile up the paved access road and look for the sign across from the restrooms. 

HOURS: Summer hours (May- Sept) 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily.

FEE: There’s a $5 day use fee per vehicle. Bring exact change for the self-serve pay station.

INFO & MAPS:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/prescott/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=75173&actid=50

OBSERVATORY MESA NATURAL AREA

OBSERVATORY MESA NATURAL AREA

Flagstaff

Observatory Tank along Forest Road 515

Wavyleaf thistle and guests

Allow me to introduce A-1 Mountain, ruler of magma, queen of ashes and Mother of the Mesa. This dramatic introduction—admittedly inspired by a certain fantasy franchise—is an accurate description of the 300,000-year-old cinder cone located on the urban-forest interface west of Flagstaff. A-1 Mountain is the source of volcanic materials that built Observatory Mesa and other nearby geological features. Rising to 8,300 feet, the pine-cloaked mound is just one of many visual goodies dished out to visitors of the Observatory Mesa Natural Area.

A-1 Mountain is a 300,000 -year-old cinder cone volcano

The 2,251-acre site was acquired by the City of Flagstaff in 2013 to preserve native ecosystems and an essential wildlife corridor while allowing for  recreation.  Rich in biodiversity, the landscape is a mix of pine-oak woodlands, grasslands, shrubby range, tiny drainage areas and seeps that foster wetland species like willows, frogs, wild roses and salamanders.

Observatory Mesa

 

Hikers can access the area on dirt forest roads or by way of the Flagstaff Urban Trails System (FUTS) trailhead at Thorpe Park near downtown. Either way, both options merge at a hub in the middle of the mesa where the Mars Hill, Tunnel Springs, Flagstaff Loop and Observatory Mesa trails spin off in different directions.  Although both access points are close to town, the trailhead along Forest Road 515 has more of a woodsy feel than its city-inflected counterpart. 

Slash piles 

Beginning at the FR 515 trailhead requires some route finding. The side road at the kiosk is Forest Road 515D which is one of several non-motorized dead-end roads that wander through meadows, wetlands and forests replete with antelope, porcupines, fox and squirrels. You can wander along these scenic roads for hours, but if you want the most direct route to the FUTS hub, hike 2.6 miles farther up FR 515 (the road you came in on) from the parking spot at the kiosk. At 1.1 miles, go right at a fork and then stay straight on the main road at a second fork. Continue to a cattle guard and gate at the 1.3-mile point where Forest Road 9113C crosses, pass the gate and continue hiking on FR 515 to a hub of trail signs. From here, you can pick up the FUTS or return the way you came. 

Logs ready for transport

While hiking on the mesa, you'll see fresh-cut tree stumps and slash piles (stacks of branches). These products of forest thinning efforts are part of the Flagstaff Watershed Protection Program that's designed to reduce the threat of devastating wildfires and post-fire flooding while improving forest health to promote diverse habitats for sensitive species like the Gunnison’s prairie dog, boreal chorus frog and Mexican spotted owl. Signs at the hub have information about the program. During logging operations, heavy equipment is in use on and around the dirt roads, so stay alert and be sure to park well out of the way.

Yellow Salsify

LENGTHS:

Forest Road 515 hike to hub: 2.6 miles one-way, 7400' - 7560'

Observatory Mesa Trail: 1.6 miles one-way, 7070’ – 7370’

Mars Hill Trail: 1.9 miles one-way, 6933’ – 7402’

Tunnel Springs Trail: 1.9 miles one-way, 7014’ – 7404’

RATING: moderate

GETTING THERE:

Forest Road 515 Trailhead:

From the Interstate 17/40 interchange in Flagstaff, go 4.8 miles west (toward Williams) on I-40 to A-1 Mountain Road exit 190. Follow A-1 Road (Forest Road 506) 1.8 miles and continue straight on Forest Road 515. Pass a cattle guard and go 0.2 mile and park at the kiosk. No facilities. 

Thorpe Park Trailhead:

From downtown Flagstaff, go north on Humphreys Street to Cherry Avenue, turn left and continue to North Thorpe Park Road, turn right and drive a short distance to the parking area near the ball fields.  Pick up the Observatory Mesa Trail across the road near the disc golf course.

INFO & MAP: http://www.flagstaff.az.gov/index.aspx?NID=3081

JONES CROSSING

JONES CROSSING

Coconino National Forest

A doggie paradise

The water of East Clear Creek nourishes a sweet ribbon of green across the Mogollon Rim and a hike into the beautiful Jones Crossing area of this perennial stream rewards with exposure to an impossibly lush canyon flanked by contorted limestone cliffs.

East Clear Creek

The trek begins at Jones Crossing bridge where hikers can follow the stream either north or south.

The southbound strip is most scenic and better shaded.

Right out of the chute, the route---which roughly follows a closed 4x4 road----drops hikers into a field of thigh-high grasses splattered with OxEye Daisies and wild geraniums.

Yellow columbine

From here, just follow the water to enter a steep-walled canyon with intermittent pools and trickling rivulets smothered in ferns and bobbing yellow Columbine.

Water levels fluctuate so be prepared for wet feet as there are a few spots where crossings require some ankle-deep wading.

LENGTH:

Southbound (as described here): whatever---but it’s 5.2 miles one-way to the Poverty Draw side canyon.

Northbound: whatever, but it’s 1.75 miles to an unsigned forest road

RATING: easy, with several creek crossings

ELEVATION: 6,850’ – 7,050’

BEST SEASON: May - October

GETTING THERE:

From the intersection of State Routes 87/260 in Payson, go north on SR87  past Pine-Strawberry to milepost 289 and the sign for Jones Crossing at Forest Road 141. Continue 4 miles east on FR141 to the (signed) Jones Crossing bridge and park along the road. Forest Road 141 is maintained dirt with just a few minor bumpy parts--okay for slowly driven sedans.
Hike begins across of the bridge at the yellow “area closed” and “732” signs. The area is closed to all motorized vehicles, but hiking is okay.

MORMON MOUNTAIN

MORMON MOUNTAIN

Coconino National Forest

Mormon Mountain

Having hiked up Mormon Mountain perhaps a dozen times, I’ve decided to give it a nickname: Upside Down Mountain. That’s because when compared to a typical mountain trek experience, this one plays outside the box. First, the most difficult climbing happens along its base rather than near the top and second, views normally gained on summits are seen near the bottom of this trail.  Although some online reports besmirch Mormon Mountain Trail #58 because of its failure to conform, I rank it high on my list of must-dos because of its renegade nature. 

Dense coniferous forests cover much of the trail

Shrouded in an old growth forest, the lumpy dome of Mormon Mountain is an impressive landmark on the western edge of Flagstaff’s plateau lakes region.  Despite its beguiling profile, the trail that ascends its southeast face is pleasantly devoid of crowds.

Richardson's Geranium bloom April through October

The route’s gradual but steady ascent doesn’t have any precarious edges or wind-in-your-face vistas.  Along the first mile, views of marshy Mormon Lake peek out from a curtain of pines and oaks but after that, the trail ducks into cloistered woodlands of spruce, fir and pine.  A mix of saplings, mature growth, snags (standing dead trees) and downed logs create an untamed atmosphere and juicy habitats for turkeys, owls, squirrels, bears and bats. A few years ago, while hiking the trail in pre-dawn light, a swarm of what I thought were butterflies flew in front of me.

Sparse views of Mormon Lake occur on the lower trail

It wasn’t until I saw them fold their wings to roost beneath the bark of a dead pine tree that I realized they were bats. That was my only encounter with the nocturnal flying mammals. Bats are usually harmless to humans and are valuable as pollinators and beneficial for controlling mosquito and insect populations.  Arizona Game & Fish has guidelines for bat encounters on their website and it’s a good idea to read it before venturing into bat territory.

Old growth forest scene

Once the trail hits the 8000-foot point, it levels out as the forest changes from a shady coniferous tunnel to a sunnier mix of brambles, meadows and aspens. At the 2.5-mile point, a sign at the entrance to an open field makes for a good turnaround point. (Note, the forest service says this trail is 3 miles long, but my GPS recorded 2.6 miles.)  However, if you’re up for more, veer left and hike another 0.1 mile to where the trail ends at Forest Road 648. From here, you can turn right and hike the road another 0.6 mile to an array of communication towers for Flagstaff and Sedona area broadcasting stations.

A meadow near the end of the trail

True to its outsider nature, this mountain doesn’t yield the expected soaring peak and unobstructed panorama. Its true highpoint resides on a tree-cluttered lump somewhere beyond the towers, however signs about private property and radiation exposure were ample inspiration for me to end the trek at the property boundary and head back the way I came.

Forest Road 648. Scars on the aspens are elk antler rubs.

LENGTH: 5 miles roundtrip or 6.6 miles roundtrip to the towers

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7220’ – 8440’

Deers Ears bloom May thru August

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, go 20 miles south on Lake Mary Road (Forest Road 3) and turn left on Mormon Lake Road (Forest Road 90) past milepost 323. Continue 3.6 miles to Montezuma Road and the turn off for Dairy Springs Campground, turn right and go 0.3 mile to the trailhead.

INFO & MAP:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/ohv/recarea/?recid=55016&actid=50

LIVING WITH BATS:

https://www.azgfd.com/wildlife/livingwith/bats/

Fruits of the Desert Guided Hikes

FRUITS OF THE DESERT GUIDED HIKES

Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area, Cave Creek

Saguaro fruits ripen in early July

The Rim is on fire, Flagstaff is covered in smoke, there's a blaze on Mt.Graham and who knows what other wildfires will break out and cause closures to our high-country hiking trails over the next few weeks?  Of course, we must first be concerned with the safety of firefighters and the communities surrounding the blazes. No matter how badly we Valley dwellers want to escape the heat and hike in the cool pines, we should stay out of the way. So, what? Give up hiking until the monsoon comes? No way. Instead, stay in town and take part in a hike that celebrates the annual ripening of saguaro fruits.  Ranger Kevin Smith at Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area in Cave Creek has educational hikes planned for July 1, 7 and 8 that focus on the identification of wild foods hiding in plain sight along local trails.

Harvesting saguaro fruits

The treks start early and end before the heat of day kicks in. Ranger Smith leads participants into the hills above Cave Creek and demonstrates traditional techniques for harvesting cactus fruits and other desert delicacies.  And, yes, the tour includes free tastes. So, why not learn a little bit about native Sonoran Desert edibles while getting your exercise and waiting for the rains to return. There’s no need to sign up, just show up promptly at 7 a.m.

Plus, this program is part of the “County Parks are Getting Wet 
‘n’ Wild this Summer” promotion. At the end of the hikes, there will be a drawing for a family four-pack (4 free tickets) to the Wet ‘n’ Wild Water Park.

Engelmann prickly pear fruit

LENGTH: variable but usually 2-3 miles

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 2,200' - 2,800'

Tasty jojoba seeds

GETTING THERE:

From Loop 101 in north Phoenix, exit at Cave Creek Road and drive 15 miles north to Spur Cross Ranch Road, turn left and continue 4.2 miles to the parking lot on the left.

FEE: $3 per person permit required. Bring exact change for the self-serve pay station.

INFO:

http://www.maricopacountyparks.net/events/fruits-of-the-desert-walk21/