2012 Fall Hiking Guide

Hiking and Beer

October 2012

Now, here's the article I was born to write. Looking to put a twist on the annual October Fall Hiking Guide, the editors at PHOENIX magazine asked me to provide 11 hikes near some of the best local breweries and wineries in Flagstaff, Prescott, Sedona, Cottonwood, Bisbee and Tucson. That was a no-brainer. However, I didn't get to do much drinking as associate editor Niki D'Andrea had the (tough job) task of writing the drinking part of the article. The result---your ultimate "hike one-hoist one" ode to autumn. Enjoy. Mare

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Beware of road work near some favorite Flagstaff fall color hikes

Road work on FR 515 (Hart Prairie Road) and FR418 will slow down access to several popular fall color hikes and drives including:  Wilson Meadow, Bismarck Lake, and some entry points for Arizona Trail Passage 34.  Construction will only take place Mondays-Thursdays through December 14, 2012.  Plan accordingly.

Hart Prairie, Oct. 1, 2010

From: "Magee, Brienne U -FS" <bmagee@FS.FED.US>
Date: September 26, 2012 12:40:19 PM PDT
To: <USDA-FS-NEWS@NEWSBOX.USDA.GOV>
Subject: SOUTHWESTERN-NEWS-RELEASE: Coconino National Forest Information

Construction to begin on Hart Prairie Road (Forest Road 151)

Flagstaff, AZ – Visitors to the Hart Prairie area this fall should expect delays while traveling on Hart Prairie Road (Forest Road 151) and Forest Road 418; Road construction efforts will be taking place starting October 1. 

Delays of up to two hours may occur. Travelers with high-clearance vehicles can use FR 794 - located approximately five miles north of the FR 151/Highway 180 junction - as an alternate route. FR 794 is not maintained for passenger vehicles.  

Contractors will work Mondays through Thursdays, dawn to dusk, as weather permits. The project could last until December 14.  Activities include improving drainages, road reconditioning, and resurfacing with crushed aggregate on eight miles of FR 151, as well as five miles of FR 418 from the FR151/418 junction to the east.

For additional information, contact the Flagstaff Ranger District at 928-526-0866.

PRIEST DRAW

PRIEST DRAW

Flagstaff

Aspens on Sept. 22, 2012

As the annual autumn equinox (Sept 22) brings the promise of cooler temperatures in the Valley, it also heralds in a brief season of hybrid summer-fall hiking in Arizona's higher elevations.

Limestone cliffs

During the final week of September, high country trees break with whispers of a warm autumnal palette above meadows awash in a slurry of hanger-on summer blooms and past-prime grasses. This glorious dichotomy of balmy sun and biting breezes serves up perfect trekking with a side of camera-ready photo opportunities.  An interesting area to explore this subdivision of hiking nirvana is Priest Draw.  Although it's pretty much an off-the-radar kind of place for hiking, the area's wildly contoured limestone walls make it a major "draw" for the sport of bouldering.  Complementing the surrounding vegetation, a bank of caves, roofs, tunnels and pocked-and-cracked walls result in unmitigated visual overdose.  Add to that the hordes of mat-packing climbers hanging upside down and scaling the rock superfly style, and you've got a hike of extraordinary interest.  The draw delves through woods and fields for roughly 1.5 miles to a point where the cliffs disappear.  Here, footpaths continue on sans the manic mix of geology, athleticism and natural elements on a seasonal cusp.

Priest Draw

LENGTH: 3 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 6,900' - 6,650'

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, travel north on I17 to Lake Mary Road exit 339, which is south of the I40 interchange just before entering Flagstaff.  Turn right, and at the bottom of the off ramp, turn right again.  Continue 5.4 miles south on Lake Mary Road (FR3) to Crimson Road---this is on the right hand side of the road just past the Canyon Vista Campground turnoff.  Turn right on Crimson and then make an immediate left onto CR 132.  Continue 3 miles on CR132 (which is good gravel) to a dirt road on the right signed "Priest Draw parking area".  This is FR238, a deeply rutted (watch that entry drop), unmaintained road where a high-clearance vehicle is required.  Follow FR238 0.2 mile to the first (small) parking apron or to 0.3 mile for the main parking corral.   AREA IS DAY USE ONLY.

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Not so secret Secret Trail

SECRET TRAIL

Coconino National Forest

the overlook

No, really, the name of this trail is "Secret Trail". Blazed by mountain bikers and realigned by the forest service, this old/new trail explores the rolling terrain west of Flagstaff's Dry Lake Hills area.  From the trailhead sign, head north (left when facing the sign) to the wooden sign marking the start of the hike. In less than a mile, you'll encounter Orion Spring---look for a vivid green draw full of ferns.  The spring was not running on Sept. 15^th, however, it does trickle after heavy rains and the area stays moist enough to foster a carpet of wildflowers. The pine-shaded trail is marked by arrows tacked to trees that help navigate among the many social (unofficial) trails intersecting the route. You’ll also notice where the forest service has blockaded some of these paths.   Along the way, the trail dips into shallow draws and passes among gigantic boulders.  At the 3-mile point, a stony corridor opens up to a beautiful overlook.  Here, a rocky ledge falls away to reveal views of Elden Mountain and a dense forest of aspens just beginning to show the blush of autumn.  Beyond the overlook, the trail continues another 0.3 mile to a 3-way junction marked only by generic arrows.  Off to the left, look for an old cabin/hunter blind near a massive rock outcropping. Past here, the trail meets the Upper Moto Trail which veers south to connect with the Fort Valley Trail System.  We returned the way we came.

Aspens starting to turn gold, Sept 15, 2012

LENGTH:  6.6 miles (out and back)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 8,070' - 8,275'

GETTING THERE:

From the traffic signal of Route 66 and Humphreys St Flagstaff, turn left onto Humphreys St and go 0.6 mile to the US 180 junction.  Turn left and travel 3 miles north on US180 (Fort Valley Road) to between  mileposts 218 and 219 and turn right onto Shultz Pass Road (FR 420).  Follow FR 420 for 0.5 mile to a fork, veer left to stay on FR420 and continue another 5 miles to the Sunset Trailhead on the right.  FR 420 has a few bumpy spots, although high clearance is the best option, we've gotten through in carefully-driven sedans in dry conditions.

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Barrier-free Mogollon Rim hike

MOGOLLON RIM INTERPRETIVE TRAIL

Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Mogollon Rim overlook

paved part of the trail

This trail has been languishing on my to-do list for decades.  Each time I've sped by the trailhead on my way to other White Mountain hikes, I'd give it a well-intended "some day" nod.  As a single trail, it's not long enough to justify a drive from the Valley, so this past week, I added it  to my Country Club Trail-Woodland Lake agenda for a single day, three-fer hike.  Visitors are greeted at the trailhead by an information kiosk featuring a map and lots of "didjaknow" historical facts.  The first half-mile of the trail is paved, barrier-free and winds through a shady Ponderosa pine forest and over the first of four wood bridges spanning an irrigation canal.  Fourteen signed "stops" line the route,  comprising the interpretive part of the trek.  Although some of the plaques are missing, the ones still intact describe the forestry, geology and human history of the area.  The paved portion of the trail ends at a scenic sandstone ledge overlooking the Mogollon Rim.  It's not as magnificent as say the Rim Vista Trail near Payson, but it's still impressive.  Beyond the ledge, the hike is an easy stroll on sandy paths with willows, flowering shrubs and Alligator junipers.   I'd recommend this hike for families with kids,  those with mobility challenges----and also, as an add-on destination for other Pinetop-Lakeside area trails.

bridge over irrigation ditch

LENGTH: 1-mile loop

RATING: easy, partially barrier-free

ELEVATION: 6,800'

GETTING THERE:

From Show Low, head east on AZ 260 (a.k.a. White Mountain Blvd) and  immediately after entering the Pinetop-Lakeside town limits and just past Camp Grace, turn right at the big masonry "Pinetop-Lakeside sign between mileposts 347 and 348. The trailhead is at the end of the parking area near some power lines.

INFO: Lakeside Ranger District, 928-368-2100

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/asnf/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=45017&actid=50

http://www.wmonline.com/attract/trails/615.htm

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Lockett Meadow Road to re-open 9-15-12

From: "Magee, Brienne U -FS" <bmagee@FS.FED.US>

Date: September 10, 2012 1:47:13 PM PDTTo: <USDA-FS-NEWS@NEWSBOX.USDA.GOV>Subject: SOUTHWESTERN-NEWS-RELEASE: Coconino National Forest Information

Lockett Meadow Road reopens 8 a.m. Saturday

Flagstaff, AZ – The Flagstaff Ranger District will be opening Lockett Meadow Road (Forest Road 552) to public use starting Saturday at 8:00 a.m.

Lockett Meadow Road is winding and extremely narrow, and visitors are urged to use caution while in the area and to expect delays. Contractors will continue to utilize the road and portions of Lockett Meadow to haul and stage construction materials for the ongoing Waterline Road reconstruction efforts. Flaggers will be in place Monday through Friday to block traffic at the top and bottom of Lockett Meadow Road while heavy equipment is traveling the road.

Construction activities will not occur on weekends, thus no personnel will be directing traffic; however, drivers should be especially cautious on weekends, as high visitor traffic is expected – drive slowly, be alert, and be prepared to stop for passing vehicles. The road is not suitable for trailers

Lockett Meadow Campground will also be open for free day-use and camping starting Saturday morning. Camping and campfires are only permitted in the designated camp sites, and no trash or water services will be available. Visitors must practice Leave No Trace principles – Pack it In, Pack it Out - remove all trash from the area upon departure. Sites are available on a first come, first served basis, and camping is limited to 14 days.

Both the Locket Meadow Road and Campground will close seasonally if the road becomes too wet to sustain safe vehicular traffic, or with predicted heavy snowfall.

For additional information, contact the Flagstaff Ranger Station 928-526-0866.

A jaunt with jackrabbits at Veterans Oasis Park

VETERANS OASIS PARK TRAILS

Chandler

Bird of Paradise plants frame the San Tan Mountains

Alas, another weekend of summer high country hiking was thwarted by thunderstorms.  With my Flagstaff plans put on hold and the weather forecast for Phoenix looking pretty good for at least a few hours in the morning, I decided to head off to the green trails of Veterans Oasis Park in Chandler today.  Anchored by an urban fishing lake surrounded by picnic areas and playgrounds, the park also features a series of wetlands created with five recharge basins that hold reclaimed water. A maze of trails wind among the pools and a variety of vegetation zones---mesquite bosques, hummingbird/butterfly habitats, chaparral and water-loving riparian plant populations keep things interesting.  Two hilltop viewing areas provide good overviews of the site and the swarms of waterfowl that nest in the shallow basins.  The lake circumference trail is paved and barrier-free while the wetland trails are level dirt/gravel.  An unexpected delight on the trails were the dozens of Black-tailed jackrabbits playing hide-and-seek with my camera. I had a blast photographing them as well as myriad vociferous birds and a flock of Turkey vultures soaring above the wetlands.

LENGTH: 4.5 miles of inter-connected trails

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 1270' -1311'

FACILITIES: restrooms, drinking fountains, horse watering station, dog poo bag posts

DOGS: must be on leash and kept out of the water

HOURS:

Park: 6 a.m. to 10:30 p.m. daily

Preserve: 6 a.m. to sunset daily

Environmental Education Center: 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Monday and Friday, 8 a.m. - 8 p.m. Tuesday - Thursday.  Closed weekends and holidays.

FREE admission

Great Blue Heron (left) looks over a  recharge basin

GETTING THERE:

From Phoenix, travel east on Loop 202 to exit 44 for Gilbert Road.  Go 3 miles south to Chandler Heights Road, turn east (left) and continue 1 mile to just past Lindsay Road.  The entrance is on the north (left) side of Chandler Heights Road.

4050 E. Chandler Heights Road, Chandler, AZ 85249,

INFO: City of Chandler, 480-782-2890

http://www.azgfd.gov/h_f/urban_lake_veterans_oasis.shtml

http://www.chandleraz.gov/Content/VOP_Equestrian_Trails.pdf

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Fancy fowl and a flower-rimmed lake.

WOODLAND LAKE PARK

Pinetop-Lakeside

Ferruginous hawk

On a balmy early September afternoon, I spent nearly an hour watching a lone Ferruginous hawk turning aerial acrobatics on the wind currents above Woodland Lake.  I was thankful for the oak shaded bench at the edge of the marshy end of the lake that provided support as I tried to capture photos of the graceful predator. Soaring overhead, the bird’s unmistakable rusty markings stretched and contracted with the beat of its wings much like the attitude-soaked moves of a hard-edge model on a New York fashion week runway. Except, this well-dressed beast eats rodents, instead of, well, not eating at all?

Five easy trails roam within and around the 100-acre park complex, which includes tennis courts, softball fields, covered picnic ramadas, grills and playgrounds. Even with all the adjacent family-friendly amenities, the hiking trails are pleasantly quiet and very scenic.  Lake Loop is paved and suitable for strollers, wheelchairs and walkers. It's a good place to begin, as it's the hub for various routes.  As its name implies, Lake Loop circles the water, passing a boat ramp, fishing dock and a cattail-cluttered wetland. The summer wildflowers that flourish on the moist banks provide convenient cover for flocks of Yellow headed blackbirds and a vociferous stew of waterfowl.  Connecting trails cut through sunny meadows and pine-oak forests.  It's also possible to hike from the lake to Big Springs Environmental Area (see separate blog post)---just follow the Hitching Post Loop for 1.5 miles to the signed turn off and hike to explore yet another open air theater for “fashion week” fowl shows.

LENGTHS:  park maps do not give mileage for all the trails, but the total length for all the trails felt like about 6 miles to me

Lake Loop:  1.25 miles

Hitching Post Loop:  2 miles

Turkey Track Trail: ~1 mile

Meadowview Trail: ~ 0.25 mile

Walnut Creek Trail:  ~ 1.25 mile

RATING:  easy, Lake Loop is paved and barrier free

ELEVATION: 6950'

FACILITIES: restrooms, picnic ramadas

GETTING THERE:

From AZ260 in east Pinetop turn right (south) on Woodland Lake Road---located past Blue Ridge Schools at milepost 353 and there's a Chevron station on the corner.  Go 0.25 mile on Woodland Lake Road to the park entrance. Drive to the end  of the road for barrier free access or else park at any of the lots for unpaved access to the Lake Loop trail.

INFO:

Town of Pinetop-Lakeside

928-368-6700

http://ci.pinetop-lakeside.az.us/woodlandlake.htm

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Horse Crossing Trail

HORSE CROSSING TRAIL

Coconino National Forest

A leisurely amble through the pristine and complex canyon system of upper East Clear Creek reveals wonders that even the most well traveled Arizona hikers will find astounding. There’s the epic views from the coniferous forest rim, a scenic drop into the canyon along a fossil-encrusted limestone trail, and an emerald-green riparian environment along the water.

Sandwiched between two reservoirs, East Clear Creek slices into soft sedimentary pediments leaving behind a meandering sheer-walled canyon.  This 50-mile-long ribbon of life-giving water flows northeast from Blue Ridge Reservoir to Clear Creek Reservoir near Winslow where it merges with the Little Colorado River. 

Although traversing the entire length of this gorge would involve technical climbing skills, swimming and rafting, all that’s needed to hike the Horse Crossing trail #20 is a pair of boots and a day pack.  Exploring the mid-section of the creek, Horse Crossing is hemmed in by hard scramble rock escarpments.  At the bottom of the canyon, running water sculpts sandstone walls that look like dunes tilted on their sides in layer-cake formation.  Tens of millions of years ago, the landscape surrounding East Clear Creek was part of a vast ocean and the fossilized remains of sea-dwelling algae, coral and brachiopods are strewn about like scattered bones.  Like all of the “crossing” trails on the Mogollon Rim, this one continues up the opposite side of the canyon. However, it’s more fun to bush whack and wade for several miles up or downstream where clouds reflected in mirror-like pools in the worn sandstone gives the impression of walking on the sky. 2018 UPDATE: Fire damage in the area, travel with caution.

LENGTH: 3 miles round-trip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 6,900’ – 6,400’

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 170 miles one-way

GETTING THERE:

From Payson, travel north on State Route87 to Clints Well.  From there, continue on SR 87 for another 9.4 miles to the turn off for Forest Road 95 (between mileposts 299 and  300).  Turn right (east) on FR 95 and drive 4 miles to Forest Road 513B.  Go left (east) on FR 513B and continue 2 miles to the trailhead.  A high-clearance vehicle is required on FR 513B.

It's kind of like Payson up here.

NORTHLAND ARBORETUM

Paul Bunyan Conservation Area, Brainerd, MN

Jack pine savanna

I hate being away from Arizona.  Hate it.  That's because  I miss my limitless hiking options.  In Arizona, we can hike 365 days a year in myriad climes and terrain such as deserts, alpine meadows, pine forests, creek side riparian zones, above tree line, in world-class deep canyons, cedar-studded scrublands, high elevation mountains and striking savannas.  There's so much variety here, I've become a bit of a hiking snob and have yet to find a place with as much trail diversity as the Grand Canyon State.  Still, I occasionally must go out of town, and that means having to hike outside my comfort zone.

While on a business trip this week to beautiful Brainerd Minnesota, a lucky juxtaposition of the printing plant I was visiting and a conservation area provided an opportunity to hit the trail.   Brainerd is a small-ish, but strangely congested town on the Mississippi River.   Downtown is a grid of narrow, oak-lined streets populated with quilt shops and antique emporiums that give way to dusty railroad tracks and frontage roads bolstered by big box retailers and chain restaurants.  While idling in my rental car waiting for a coal-laden train to pass, I saw the sign:  "Paul Bunyan Trail", and my curiosity was stoked.  Happily, my work assignment completed in time for me to spend a couple of hours exploring, that's when I discovered that the Paul Bunyan Trail is a long bike trail that begins just outside the arboretum.  The arboretum includes property leased from The Nature Conservancy, so, given my limited time, I decided to check out the Jack Pine Savanna Habitat Restoration Project--a joint effort of TNC and other organizations.  Excellent trailside maps and well-signed junctions make getting around the arboretum a breeze.  I quickly planned out a 4-mile loopy route heading first through some colorful flower gardens and an experimental study area loaded with what appeared to be mutant squash.  Soon, the wide trail turned to soft white sand and opened up into a sunny scrubland stabbed with rail thin, frail conifers that looked as if they could be the wayward arrows of extraterrestrial archers---the Jack Pines.  I thought Scotty (of Star Trek) had  transported me to Payson. The Big Ben and Little Ben trails twist around the stark habitat that smacks more of Arizona's high desert than a forest less than a mile from the mighty Mississippi.  Next, I strolled through a deeply wooded area of Paper Birch, oaks, Blue Spruce, White Pines and Red maple trees.  Although it was only late August some maple leaves already bore the crimson tinge of autumn.   Finally, I walked the short trail around “Minnesota Monet”--a secluded lily pond wrapped in Weeping Willows—which reminded me of Dow Springs on the Sycamore Rim Loop trail and made me glad I was headed home.

Minnesota Monet

LENGTH:  12 miles of connected trails

ELEVATION: 1230' -1260’

RATING:  easy

INFO:

Located in Brainerd, MN--about 2 hours north of Minneapolis/St. Paul

218-829-8770

http://northlandarb.com/

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Water and wildflowers on the Mogollon Rim

JONES CROSSING

Now here’s a little slice of paradise wrapped in fragrant pines and wildflower glory. The water of East Clear Creek nourishes a sweet ribbon of green across the Mogollon Rim and a hike into the beautiful Jones Crossing area of this perrenial stream rewards with exposure to an impossibly lush canyon flanked by contorted limestone cliffs. The trek begins at Jones Crossing bridge where hikers can follow the stream either north or south.  We found the southbound strip more scenic and better shaded.  Right out of the chute, the route---which roughly follows a closed 4x4 road----drops hikers into a field of thigh-high grasses splattered with OxEye Daisies and wild geraniums.  From here, just follow the water to enter a steep-walled canyon with intermittent pools and trickling rivlets smothered in ferns and bobbing yellow Columbine. Water levels fluctuate so be prepared for wet feet as there are a few spots where crossing does require some ankle-deep wading. 

LENGTH: 

Southbound (as described here): whatever---but it’s 5.2 miles one-way to the Poverty Draw side canyon.

Northbound: whatever, but it’s 1.75 miles to an unsigned forest road

RATING:  easy, with several creek crossings

ELEVATION:  6,850’ – 7,050’

GETTING THERE:

From the intersection of State Routes 260/87 in Payson, go north on SR87 (Beeline Hwy) past Pine-Strawberry to milepost 289 and the sign for Jones Crossing and turn right onto Forest Road 141. Continue 4 miles east on FR141 to the (signed) Jones Crossing bridge and park along the road.  FR 141 is maintained dirt with just a few minor bumpy parts--okay for slowly driven sedans.
Hike begins across of the bridge at the yellow “area closed” and “732” signs.  The area is closed to all motorized vehicles, but hiking is okay.

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A stumbled upon "social trail"

SCHULTZ LOOP & the WEENIE WALK SOCIAL TRAIL

Coconino National Forest

Schultz Loop

Weenie Walk

Seems like every time I'm out hiking in Flagstaff, I discover at least one "no-name" trail. The forest service refers to these unauthorized user-created routes as "social trails".  Apparently, mountain bikers and renegade hikers have blazed their own maze of secret  trails---and they DO have names as I've come to learn---mostly from bikers kind enough to fill me in and an underground map acquired from an anonymous source.  Cool names, even, like Super Fly, Jedi, Ricochet and the one we stumbled upon recently:  Weenie Walk.  The "social trails" link below connects to a forest service document explaining why these user-created paths can be problematic and what plans are in the works to meet the need for additional recreational routes. Anyhoo, as non-motorized cross country travel in non-wilderness areas (which would include hiking on fugitive trails) is currently legal on the Coconino, we made an unplanned detour on Weenie Walk while hiking the Schultz Loop trail.  Here's how:

From the trailhead, locate the start of the Schultz Loop trail, pass through a big "road closed" sign after about 0.1 mile and continue another 0.6 mile to a junction with a sign indicating to turn right to head toward the Schultz Creek Trail.  This is where to turn right is all you want to do is the loop, however, the woodlands flanking the road leading straight ahead looked so inviting, we took a detour.  After hiking up the road about 0.4 mile, we noticed an unsigned trail heading off to the left.  Again, it looked so green and pretty, we just had to explore.  We didn't know it at the time, but we had just entered the Weenie Walk.  This slim path climbs gently uphill, paralleling the Brookbank Trail briefly before swinging east to eventually  connect with Sunset Trail.  It's a beautiful, quiet, pine-shaded stroll that passes through several sunny meadows.  We got about 2 miles in when claps of thunder in the near distance hastened our decision to turn around and head back to the Schultz Creek Junction and complete the loop in totally legal territory.

LENGTH:  1.6 mile (loop), 5.6 round trip with Weenie Walk as described here.

RATING:  easy

ELEVATION:  8,000' - 8,100' or 8,000' - 8,700'

DISTANCE FROM PHOENIX: 155 miles one way

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, travel north on US 180 to milepost 218.6 to  (FR420) Schultz Pass Road.  Turn right and continue 0.5 mile to a fork, bear right to stay on FR420 and go 4.9 miles to the Sunset Trailhead on the right.  Schultz Pass Road is maintained dirt with a few rough spots.  High clearance is recommended, although we got through in a sedan.

INFO: Flagstaff Ranger District, 928-526-0866

http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=55172&actid=50

SOCIAL TRAILS:

http://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5374932.pdf

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Walking Wupatki: Part 6

LENOX CRATER

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument

Summit of Lenox Crater

View from the trail

Woe to Lenox Crater. Crushed, pummeled, bullied and ultimately overshadowed by its younger, more aggressive volcanic neighbors, this humble cinder cone is older than the tumultuous lava flows and red-tinged peaks that have nearly obliterated its rounded and relaxed profile. Unlike the park’s star attraction---Sunset Crater---it's okay to climb Lenox. It's not a difficult hike, however, pea-to-pebble-sized black cinders underfoot create a mildly hazardous carpet of sandpapered marbles.  Ponderosa pines and Gambel oaks shade the trail on its way up to the summit. On top, there's no discernable "crater”, but an impressive cinder-ash flow sliding down the south face is evidence the hill's explosive past.  Take a moment to scoop up a handful of cinders and examine the structure and lightness. Pumice like this can sometimes float on water and has been used to smooth and file rough skin. Each of these pebbles began life as a molten projectile spit from the crater like terrestrial meteorites.  To the north, the mounds of O’Leary Peak and Strawberry Crater stand out above the Bonita Lava Flow.  Both of these volcanoes---located outside of the monument boundaries---are climbable and although, Lenox Crater concludes the Walking Wupatki series of hikes---guess where I'm going next? 

LENGTH:  1 mile roundtrip

RATING: moderate (loose footing)

ELEVATION: 6,940' - 7,240

PETS: are not allowed on any park trails in buildings.  
Please do not leave pets in cars---heat can be fatal.

FACILITIES: restroom, visitor center, vending machines

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, travel north on US 180 to milepost 444.5.  Turn right and continue 30 miles to the turn off on the left. Roads are 100% paved. Alternate access: enter the park from US 180 at milepost 430 and go 5 miles to the trailhead.

INFO: National Park Service, 928-679-2365

http://www.nps.gov/sucr/index.htm

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Walking Wupatki: Part 5

LAVA FLOW TRAIL

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument

Moving south ---and about 2000 feet uphill-- from Wupatki National  Monument,  scenic "volcanoes and ruins" loop road enters the tortured terrain of Sunset Crater National Monument.  Complementing a bevy of  scenic view roadside pullouts  for casual sightseers; two hiking trails delve deeper into the otherworldly landscape.  First up: the Lava Flow Trail.  This hike-by-numbers trek uses a guide booklet available in a box at the trailhead or the visitor center down the road to describe various volcanic features along the route. The trail has a .25-mile section that's paved and barrier-free, but the remainder of the trail requires sturdy (closed toe) footwear as it moves over some rough-around-the-edges lava.  Just under a mile in length, the trail manages to get hikers into the guts of a massive lava flow that issued from the base of Sunset Crater some 900 years ago.   In terms of geological time, this is newborn rock. Unfettered by the ravages of time, the molten crust that  squeezed, belched, oozed and sprayed from the belly of the earth retains its wild, "fresh from the smelter" veneer.  All around the trail, a placid sea of black cinders peppered with hardy tree sprouts laping  at the base of Sunset Crater Volcano belies  a history of fire raining from the sky.

LENGTH:  1 mile loop

RATING:  easy (some loose rock and steps)

ELEVATION: 7,000' - 7,050'

PETS: are not allowed on any park trails in buildings.  

Please do not leave pets in cars---heat can be fatal.

FACILITIES: restooms,  vending machines and water  at the visitor center

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, travel north on US 180 to milepost 444.5.  Turn right and continue 29.5 miles to the  turn off on the left. Roads are 100% paved. Alternate access: enter the park from US 180 at milepost 430 and go 5.5 miles to the trailhead.

INFO: National Park Service, 928-679-2365

http://www.nps.gov/sucr/index.htm

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Walking Wupatki: Part 4

WUPATKI PUEBLO

The main structure

Welcome to the  main attraction of Wupatki National Monument.  What may have been Arizona's first "planned community" (think: Medieval Anthem), this  community built on the edge of the Colorado Plateau includes a 100-room pueblo, ballcourt and community gathering arena.  Archeological discoveries on the site suggest that a mixture of cultures inhabited this area during the 12th century. Its location at the crossroads of major travel routes coupled with the excavation of myriad pottery and architectural styles indicate that Wupatki may have been an important  way station for commerce.  A nicely paved path with placards corresponding to a guide book available in the visitor center threads among the ruins.  Of particular note are how the stone structures were engineered to take advantage of natural geological features.

Like most folks, the inhabitants of Wupatki loved a good ball game, and just downhill from the big house, a reconstructed ballcourt tells a silent story of an imaginative community that blended  hard work with serious playtime.

ballcourt

LENGTH:  0.5 mile loop

RATING:  easy, paved, some stairs

ELEVATION: 4,900'

PETS: are not allowed on any park trails in buildings.  

Please do not leave pets in cars---heat can be fatal.

THE RULES: as with all archeological sites, it is illegal to tkae or damage anything.  Take only pictures, leave only footprints. Also, do not climb or sit on teh fragile ruins.

FACILITIES: restoom, visitor center, vending machines

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, travel north on US 180 to milepost 444.5.  Turn right and continue 13 miles to the  turn off on the right. Roads are 100% paved.

INFO: National Park Service, 928-679-2365

http://www.nps.gov/wupa/index.htm

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Walking Wupatki: Part 3

DONEY TRAIL

Wupatki National Monument

the saddle

on the trail

Geek that I am, I have a facination with lava bombs.  Heck--even the name is cool.  Lava. Bombs.  These products of volcanic eruptions form when highly viscous molton rock shoots into the sky from an explosive event,  partially solidifies on the way back to earth, then slams into the ground with a heat-warped taffy splat.  This process results in in mangled crater-side blobs and contorted ribbons that are best (indelicately) described  as "stone turds".  I think they are beautiful and I wish I could have been around to witness their formation.  Okay, not really, but it's almost a certainty that people living in the area 1000 years ago would have been treated to the fireworks.  Still, 21-century hikers can observe some very nice old, but fresh-looking lava bombs on the Doney Trail.  The trail leads to two of  four cinder cone summits that sit on a north-south line  of the Doney Fault which is visible from the top of peak number two.

lava bomb

A short walk over black cinders leads to a saddle with a bench and a lone one-seed juniper tree standing sentry over big views of the Painted Desert.  From here, the trail divides.  Go left to peak number one which features the ruins of an ancient  field house.  Peak number two is a little steeper climb, but the trail has been stabalized with wooden beams. On top, there's a viewing bench and a sign describing the surrounding peaks.  Look closely to the southeast and you should be able to spot the white roofs of the Wupatki Pueblo visitor center---next stop on the tour. 

LENGTH:  0.7 miles roundtrip

RATING:  moderate (loose rock)

ELEVATION:  5,300' - 5,500'

PETS: are not allowed on any park trails in buildings.  

Please do not leave pets in cars---heat can be fatal.

THE RULES: as with all archeological sites, it is illegal to take or damage anything.  Take only pictures, leave only footprints. Also, do not climb or sit on the fragile ruins.

FACILITIES: restoom, picnic table

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, travel north on U.S. 89 to milepost 444.5.  Turn right and continue 9 miles to the Doney Picnic Area turn off on the right. Roads are 100% paved.

INFO: National Park Service, 928-679-2365

http://www.nps.gov/wupa/index.htm

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Walking Wupatki: Part 2

CITADEL and NALAKIHU RUINS

Wupatki National Monument

Citadel ruins and Citadel Sink

Nalakihu Pueblo

Whether this stone-hewn, hilltop structure was a swanky living space, fortress, ceremonial gathering spot or a Middle Ages-era marketplace we will never know for sure.  What is certain though is that this second stop on the Wupatki-Sunset Crater circuit will stoke your imagination.  A paved trail--suitable for strollers and walkers--leaves the parking area heading uphill on an easy grade. The site consists of two ruins.  The first is a tiny field building called Nalakihu (Hopi for “House Outside the Village”) that archeologists think was used by farmers in the 1100s.  Slabs of sandstone and lumps of black volcanic basalt mortared together in intricate layers form several rooms overlooking a stark landscape of improbable farmlands.  But farm the ancients did---using ingenious techniques like check dams to coax crops from brutal terrain.

View from the Citadel

Above Nalakihu sits the impressive citadel.  As the trail swings around the backside of the butte, a large sinkhole depression comes in to view.  This is "citadel sink" which formed when an underground limestone cavern collapsed. On the summit, a swath of geological wonders fills the horizon.  The flat-topped cone to the northwest is SP Crater---an intriguing destination for anybody looking to scale a cinder cone.  Framing the sinkhole are the San Francisco Peaks--the remains of a strato volcano that at one point towered to 16,000 feet before blowing its top Mount St. Helens-style shaving it down it its present 12,633' height.  The paved trail ends at the top of the butte, but those with sturdy footwear can enter the site (be careful on the loose rock) to check out how the citadel structure was built into the natural stone of the butte and ponder the millions of unanswered questions buried in the rubble.

LENGTH: 0.2 mile

RATING: easy, barrier free

ELEVATION: 5,380'- 5,440'

FACILITIES:  none

HOURS: open year-round sunrise to sunset

PETS: are not allowed on any park trails in buildings.  

Please do not leave pets in cars---heat can be fatal.

THE RULES: as with all archeological sites, it is illegal to take or damage anything.  Take only pictures, leave only footprints. Also, do not climb or sit on the fragile ruins.

GETTING THERE:

From Flagstaff, travel north on US 180 to milepost 444.5.  Turn right and continue  4.3 miles (or 0.3 mile past the Lomaki site) to the Citadel Ruins parking apron on the right. Roads are 100% paved.

INFO: National Park Service, 928-679-2365

http://www.nps.gov/wupa/index.htm

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