HARQUAHALA PACK TRAIL

HARQUAHALA PACK TRAIL Harquahala Mountain Wilderness Area An abandoned solar observatory on top of the 5,691-foot summit of Harquahala mountain, the highest point in southwestern Arizona, is but one of many points of interest atop this desert peak. Stunning views of the sprawling farmlands near Wickenburg, a healthy desert tortoise population, skulking Gila monsters and ruins of an abandoned mine camp provide hours of visual interest along the narrow pack trail that spirals skyward from the desert floor. Just below the summit, there’s a mountain pass with good views of a precipitous dirt road that snakes up the massive south slopes of the mountain. In addition to being a favorite destination for brave 4 x 4 enthusiasts, the bumpy route also is used by Central Arizona Project workers to access the array of solar-powered equipment on the apex which regulates the flow of water in the CAP canals that criss-cross the Metro Phoenix area. LENGTH: 11.5 miles round-trip RATING: difficult ELEVATION: 2320' - 5691' GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take  US60 (Grand Avenue) west towards Wickenburg. From Wickenburg, continue on US60 for about 14 miles past the little town of Aguila. Between mile markers 70 and 71, look for a gate on the left and a small brown “trail” sign and turn onto the dirt road. You’ll need to open the latched gate and close it behind you. Follow the generic “trail” signs for 2.2 miles to the trailhead where there’s an interpretive sign and a restroom. Information: Arizona Bureau of Land Management, http://www.blm.gov/az/st/en/prog/recreation/autotour/harq_summit.html

Y-BAR

Y Bar Trail #44 Mazatzal Wilderness Rugged, contorted escarpments of shimmering metamorphic rocks studded with high chapparal woodlands are the hallmark attractions of the Mazatzal Wilderness. The Mazatzal (which is pronounced “mah-zaht-zahl” and means land of the deer) mountains tower to nearly 8,000 feet for spectacular vista views. The Y Bar trail is a continual uphill climb along the base of Suicide Ridge through dense stands of juniper and agave. Near the 2-mile-point, the trail transitions into a heart-pumping crawl on the cliffs above Shake Tree Canyon. There, the path enters a burned area where charred pine trees and scorched snags make the remainder of the route tricky to follow. Watch for rock cairns to use as your guide. At roughly the 4.2-mile point, the trail tops out at 6,400 feet on the Cactus Saddle, a large open area with views that stretch all the way to the White Mountains in the east. From there, the trail dips downhill to a seep area known as the Y Bar Tanks-- the turn around point for this hike. LENGTH: 9.6 miles round-trip RATING: difficult ELEVATION GAIN: 2,400 feet GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, go north on Highway 87 for approximately 65 miles to Forest Road 419 and the signed turn off for the Barnhardt Trailhead, which is located a quarter-mile south of the town of Gisela. Follow FR 419 for 5 miles to the parking area. Information: Visit fs.fed.us/r3/tonto or call (928) 474-7900

SYCAMORE RIM

SYCAMORE RIM TRAIL. Kaibab National Forest, Sycamore Canyon Wilderness.  A meager crack in a wind-swept prairie marks the origin of Arizona’s second largest canyon. In fact, the source of Sycamore Canyon is so subdued that, without an understanding of the area’s geology, you’d probably stroll right past it without giving it second thought. From its humble birthplace on the prairie, the canyon cuts a meandering 20-mile-long gorge stretching from the Colorado Plateau to the Verde Valley. A hike along the Sycamore Rim trail samples the canyon’s diversity by tracing slumping earthen edges as they fall away into gaping crevasses, dry waterfalls, natural stone tanks brimming with water and spring-fed meadows drenched in wildflower color. Although it is first runner up in size when compared to the Grand Canyon, this many-fingered precipice is second to none in geological complexity and visual interest. Landscapes--both harsh and soft--serve up a delicious dichotomy of wonders. Moving seamlessly between lifeless, stone-cold canyons and sun-washed fields of lusty, waist-high grasses, this trail is saturated with ever-changing eye candy. Interpretive signs at key points along the route explain the significance of logging ruins, water sources like Pomeroy tanks, geology, old roads and the delicate eco-system of a bucolic spring area where water lilies bob in shallow pine-rimmed pools. HIGHLIGHTS: Magnificent views, deep canyon, historic ruins, spring-fed meadows. LENGTH: 11.3-mile loop RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 6,449 -7,244 Driving Distance from Phoenix: 185 miles one-way GETTING THERE: DOW SPRING TRAILHEAD: From Flagstaff, go 18 miles west on Interstate 40 to exit 178 (Parks). Turn left at the stop sign, cross the rail tracks and go 9.6 miles on FR 141  to FR 131. Go 0.6 mile south on FR 131to the turn off for the trailhead on the right. NOTE: there are five major trailheads for this hike.  See the Kaibab National Forest website for maps. Information: https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=11674&actid=50

INNER BASIN

INNER BASIN TRAIL Coconino National Forest
The robust conifer forests that thrive in the inhospitable volcanic bowl of San Francisco Mountain can be partly attributed to an industrious and vocal bird called Clark’s Nutcracker. Easy to identify by their black-and-white feathers and sharp khaaa-khaaa-khaaa cry, the birds are consummate seed collectors. It’s common for them to store up to 100,000 pine seeds per season (many times more than they could possibly eat) in shallow underground caches. Uneaten seeds sprout and grow into trees--replenishing the birds’ food supply. The pine canopy above the Inner Basin trail is a favorite hang-out for the birds as they go about their “accidental environmentalism” by propagating the trees that slow erosion and protect an important source of water for the city of Flagstaff. Snowmelt from San Francisco mountain runs downhill and feeds springs in the Inner Basin (the collapsed crater of the 1.5 million-year-old volcano) below the peaks. As the pleasant mountain trail glides uphill, it passes several pump stations. You’ll want to tote an empty water bottle on this hike because at about the 9,400-foot point, there’s a pump house with a spigot that dispenses fresh, ice-cold spring water. Farther up the trail, another pump station has a covered viewing bench overlooking an aspen-framed alpine meadow which makes a good place to catch your breath along this high-altitude path. From there, the combination of a steep grade and thin air taxes the lungs as the path heads up to the 10,200-foot-point and the intersection with the Weatherford trail--the turnaround point for this hike. At the junction, you’ll want to linger a few moments to take in views of the surrounding Colorado Plateau where patches of trees damaged by wildfires and bark beetles are dwarfed by verdant old-growth conifers and spindly saplings—courtesy of Clark’s Nutcracker. LENGTH: 8 miles round-trip RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 8,800 – 10,220 feet GETTING THERE: From the junction of Interstates 17 and 40 just south of Flagstaff, go east on I-40 to the turnoff for Highway 89 north. Follow Highway 89 to just past milepost 431 (across from the entrance to Sunset Crater). Turn left onto Forest Road 552 and follow the signs to Lockett Meadow. Turn right at the Lockett Meadow sign and continue on FR-522 to the signed trailhead. The road is a winding dirt mountain road passable by sedan.
INFO:  Flagstaff Ranger Distict, Coconino National Forest
http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation/peaks/inner-basin-tr.shtml

WILLOW SPRINGS LAKE

WILLOW SPRINGS LAKE TRAIL Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest Although it’s best known as one of the best mountain bike trails on the Mogollon Rim, the Willow Springs trail also provides an invigorating trek for those who prefer to hoof-it. The route is a closed double-track dirt road that rambles through ponderosa pine forests and boggy backwaters above Willow Springs Lake. From the trailhead, the path crosses an open meadow beneath humming power lines. At about the half-mile point, the trail comes to a fork in the road. From here, it’s best to go right because the trail signage is easier to follow when the loop is hiked counterclockwise. Because the trail is surrounded by prime wildlife habitat, there’s always a good chance of spotting deer, elk and waterfowl during the hike. Near the half-way mark, the route passes several shallow ponds and marsh areas before meeting the shores of the lake. The trail parallels the water for about a quarter-mile before it turns uphill and heads back into the forest. Finding your way along this short segment is a bit tricky--look for generic trail signs tacked to trees to use as your guide. The return leg of the loop climbs up along a shaded ridge where bright blue daylilies and brilliant red paintbrush flowers blossom in the cool sheets of spring water that cascade over the trail and into the lake below. LENGTH: 8.1-mile loop RATING: easy ELEVATION GAIN: 100 feet GETTING THERE: From the junction of Highways 87 and 260 in Payson, go right (east) on Highway 260 and continue to Larson Ridge Road (Forest Road 237). Turn left on FR-237 and continue a short distance to the parking area with restroom on the left just south of Forest Road 237A. The trail starts a few yards up the road from the parking area at an unmarked gate on the left. From there, follow the generic blue trail blazes and “bike” signs. This description turns right at the first major junction.

SEE CANYON

SEE CANYON Nothing says “autumn in the high country” quite like a willowy stand of golden-crowned aspens. Transient and opportunistic, aspen trees rely on forest fires for their survival. In their natural cycle of life and death, aspens can only sprout and regenerate when bathed in sunlight. Young aspens literally rise from the ashes of sun bathed burned areas and thrive for years until encroaching pine trees catch up and choke out sunlight and nutrients. Eventually, the aspens dwindle, and their subterranean root systems go dormant until fire clears the canopy again. A hike on the See Canyon trail is like getting a field lesson in the lifecycle of this tenacious, showy species. From the ancient knarly-trunked hangers on that refuse to succumb to the clutch of predatory pines to spindly, soot-covered sprouts on barren charred slopes, the aspens chronicle how fire has transformed the landscape over time. To find the route, descend down through a wooden fence that’s located to the right of the parking lot trailhead sign. Bear left and head down toward the creek. Cross the creek, head up the bank and then veer right along a faint path to the signed intersection for the Highline and See Canyon Trails. Turn left at the junction where the See Canyon trail sign is sometimes covered by tall vegetation. The first portion of the trail is usually overgrown with soft grasses and washouts may camouflage the trail in places, but by paying attention to the metal trail markers that are nailed to trees, it’s not too difficult to stay on track. The trail crosses Christopher Creek several times before it leaves the green streamside environment behind and begins an arduous 1,700-foot climb up to the rim. For an easier option, turn right at the junction for See Spring Trail #185 that branches off the main path before the going gets rough. The See Spring Trail is a half-mile in length and dead ends at the spring. Intrepid hikers can opt to stay on the main trail and complete the uphill grind to experience exquisite vistas and plenty of fresh mountain air on the 7,860-foot-high crest of the Mogollon Rim. LENGTH: 4.8 miles one-way RATING: difficult ELEVATION: 6,100 – 7,860 feet PEAK COLOR: mid October GETTING THERE: Lower trailhead: From Payson, go right (east) onto Highway 260 and continue for 20 miles to the Christopher Creek Loop exit. Continue on Christopher Creek Loop to Forest Road 284, which is located directly across the road from the Tall Pines Market. Follow FR 284 for 1.6 miles (ignore the many dirt spur roads; stay on the gravel) to the signed circular parking area where there’s a restroom and a corral. Rim Road trailhead: From Highway 87, go east on FR 300 for roughly 30 miles to the signed trailhead on the right.

DREW TRAIL

DREW TRAIL While the downside of wildfires is the destruction of our beloved woodlands, the upside is improved forest health and the opening up of previously obscured views. Although recent wildfires have denuded sections of the Drew Trail, the result has been mostly positive. Before the fires, dense stands of trees (some unhealthy due to bark beetle infestation) had blocked views that now showcase the stunning geology and beauty of the area. The hike starts out at the See Canyon trailhead below the Rim Road and then heads east on the Highline trail through a 2.25-mile-long checkerboard of creek side ferns, manzanita scrub and soaring pines before it encounters the Drew Trail junction. From here, the hiking becomes more difficult as the final stretch of the steep path climbs 820 feet in just over a mile. As the route gains elevation, the fire damage wanes and the forest grows thicker. Finally, at trail’s end on top of the 7,600-foot escarpment, shimmering aspens, billowing oaks and a healthy crowd of unscathed pines shade the path. LENGTH: 7 miles roundtrip RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 6,780 – 7,600 feet PEAK COLOR: mid October GETTING THERE: Lower trailhead: From Payson, go east (right) on Highway 260 for 21 miles to the Christopher Creek Loop exit. Continue on Christopher Creek Loop to Forest Road 284, which is located directly across the road from the Tall Pines Market. Follow FR 284 for 1.6 miles (stay on the main gravel road ignoring the many spur roads) to the signed See Canyon trailhead where there’s a restroom and corral. Rim Road trailhead: located roughly 6 miles from the Highway 260/300 turn off near FR 9350, marked only by a generic trail post. Consult a good forest service map to make sure you’ve found the right path.

BARBERSHOP TRAIL

BARBERSHOP TRAIL This undulating route penetrates the thick forests of Barbershop and Dane Canyons where, in autumn, a wide variety of trees and plants paint the landscape in a riot of warm color. Along this trail, a multi-level canopy of foliage begins on the forest floor where oaks with spiced mustard tinged leaves compete for space among compact blue spruce trees. Above the oaks, Bigtooth maples blush crimson against cool, blue green firs. Towering high above the confetti-like layers of airborne leaf litter, graceful white-barked aspens and Ponderosa pines seem to brush the clouds in a wind-fueled arboreal ballet. The trail, which is named in honor of a long-gone sheepherder who used his sheering blades to give haircuts to cowboys, ducks in-and-out of the forest, and passes through sunny meadows of spent ferns and golden-brown grasses. Adding visual interest to the trail, are two lush, soggy spring sites which feed hardy daisies and yarrow flowers that bloom stubbornly until the first frosts of late autumn send them down for the winter. LENGTH: 4.5 miles one way RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 7,200 – 7,600 feet PEAK COLOR: early October GETTING THERE: From Payson, go east (right) on Highway 260 for 30 miles to Rim Road (Forest Road 300, which is located across from the Rim Visitor Center). Follow FR 300 for 23 miles to Forest Road 137. Turn right on FR 137 and drive 4 miles to the trailhead, which is located across the road from Buck Springs Cabin. Information: Coconino National Forest, Mogollon Rim Ranger District, (928) 477-2255, fs.fed.us/r3/Coconino/recreation/mog_rim/barbershop-tr.shtml

TAVASCI MARSH

TAVASCI MARSH Dead Horse Ranch State Park Situated in the backwaters of the upper Verde River, Tavasci Marsh is a bird watcher’s paradise. Herons, egrets, finches, wrens and flycatchers flourish in the profuse vegetation and aren’t shy about spreading their wings. The hike passes through a healthy mesquite bosque—one of the most rare ecosystems in the world—ending at a wooden observation deck with a viewing bench at the edge of the wetlands. Here, river otters cut through pond water like oiled torpedoes accompanied by a boisterous avian soundtrack. LENGTH: 3 miles round-trip RATING: easy elevation gain: 50 feet ELEVATION GAIN: 3,350’ – 3,300’ GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to Camp Verde (exit 287) and take Highway 260 west to Cottonwood. Turn left on Main Street (89A toward Clarksdale) and continue to 10th Street. Turn right on 10th St. and proceed over the Verde River Bridge to the park entrance. From the park entrance, follow the main road to Flycatcher Road (2nd road on the left) where there’s a “Tavasci Marsh” sign. Follow this road less than a mile to the signed parking area.

RIO SALADO

RIO SALADO HABITAT RESTORATION PROJECT Just two miles south of downtown Phoenix, where the Salt River once flowed, a former dumping ground has been transformed into a thriving 595-acre oasis in the desert. With the cooperation of the Army Corps of Engineers, the Flood Control District of Maricopa County and droves of volunteers, tons of waste were cleared out of the Salt River channel and replaced with ponds, waterfalls and tens of thousands of indigenous plant species. Although the 5-mile-long strip of riparian habitat looks as if it occurred naturally, it’s actually a “demonstration wetland” that was created by tapping into the groundwater beneath the river channel and pumping more than 2.65 million gallons of water per day to sustain the habitat. Stretching from 19th Avenue to 16th Street, the project is a work in progress. The Central Avenue gateway is currently the most complete segment and there’s parking, interpretive signage, restrooms and drinking water. Trail segments are organized to feature specific desert habitats such as Cottonwood-Willow, Lower Sonoran, Mesquite Bosque and Palo Verde. Although just a few years old, the plants—which were harvested from seeds or cuttings within a half-mile of the Salt River—are already flourishing and attracting wildlife. Snowy Egrets, raptors, toads and dozens of other species have settled in. Future plans for the project include adding more gateways to access the more than 10 miles of paved and dirt trails and an Audubon Nature Center. LENGTH: about 10 miles of paved and dirt trails are planned. As of 0506, about 3 miles of established trails are open. RATING: easy and informative ELEVATION GAIN: 50 feet GETTING THERE: From Phoenix. Drive south on Central Avenue through downtown. Just past the I-17 underpass, look for the obvious parking area on the leftAlternate routes: From the east Valley, take Highway 60 west and connect to I-17. Exit I-17 at 7th Street. Go south on 7th Street to Broadway Road. Turn right (west) on Broadway Road and continue to Central Avenue. Turn right onto Central Avenue and head north for about 1 mile to the gateway. From the west Valley, take I-10 to I-17 and exit at 7th Avenue. Go south on 7th Avenue to Broadway Road. Turn left (east) onto Broadway Road and go to Central Avenue. Turn left (north) onto Central Avenue and continue for about a mile to the gateway on the right.

COON BLUFF

COON BLUFF Tonto National Forest Sunrise over Coon Bluff is sometimes greeted by a herd of wild mustangs wandering on the shores of the Lower Salt River. Early morning is the best time to sight the horses and a seat on top of Coon Bluff offers the best vantage point for viewing the elusive beasts. Coon Bluff’s rugged escarpment flanks the river and is one of several scenic high points along a maze of unofficial trails that meander through the desert terrain above the confluence of the Verde and Salt Rivers. To reach the bluff, just follow the wide paths uphill and take your pick of the many options along the ridges. There are several spur trails that lead down to the water. There, water birds and raptors chatter in the mesquite trees that thrive along the sandy shore. Although sighting a bald eagle or a turkey vulture is pretty common, catching a glimpse of the mustangs requires more patience. On days when they show up, they appear like ghosts and then disappear back into the desert in a flash of commotion that leaves behind hoof prints and a cloud of dust. LENGTH: 3 miles round trip RATING: moderate ELEVATION : 1,486' - 1,593' GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, go east on US 60 to the Power Road exit. Continue north on Power Road, which will turn into the Bush Highway, and then turn left on the Phon D. Sutton Recreation Site Road (Granite Reef Dam Rd). Drive about 100 feet and park in the corralled dirt lot just before the gate. The hike starts at the generic trail sign. INFO:  Mesa Ranger District, Tonto National Forest, 480-610-3300
http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c5/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gDfxMDT8MwRydLA1cj72BTSw8jAwgAykeaxcN4jhYG_h4eYX5hPgYwefy6w0H24dcPNgEHcDTQ9_PIz03VL8iNMMgycVQEAIzTHkw!/dl3/d3/L2dJQSEvUUt3QS9ZQnZ3LzZfME80MEkxVkFCOTBFMktTNUJIMjAwMDAwMDA!/?ss=110312&ttype=recarea&recid=35399&actid=43&navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&position=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&navid=110190000000000&pnavid=110000000000000&cid=FSE_003723&pname=Tonto+National+Forest+-+Coon+Bluff

O'LEARY PEAK

O’LEARY LOOKOUT TRAIL Coconino National Forest A “middle child”, O’Leary Peak often plays second fiddle to its more famous siblings—the San Francisco Peaks and Sunset Crater. In comparison to the rival peaks, O’Leary is truly middling in height, age and relative location. The 250,000-year-old lava dome volcano rises to an impressive 8,916 feet and although it lacks the star quality that draws hordes of tourists and hikers to the other two peaks, O’Leary is anything but the ugly step sister. The trail up O’Leary Peak is just a 4x4 road that’s still used by forest service workers to get to the fire lookout on the summit. The hike begins by flanking a thick, inky-black lava flow with views of the distinctive rust-colored slopes of Sunset Crater in the distance. The lower path is mostly made of black and red cinders that crunch under foot. The first 3 miles are easy going, gaining elevation gradually, but the grunt work begins where the road meets the mountain and becomes much steeper. Crystalline cliffs of dacite, the volcanic rock that pushed up from the earth’s core to build O’Leary Peak, line the trail that’s little more than a narrow cut in the mountainside. On the top, there are amazing aerial views of Sunset Crater and the Bonito Lava Flow. To the north, the Painted Desert shimmers in the haze and to the west; Arizona’s grandest peaks get up close and personal. While taking in the 360-degree smorgasbord of sights, you’ll wonder why all the little cars on the roads below are zooming right past O’Leary Peak. LENGTH: 10 miles round trip RATING: Moderate ELEVATION: 6,930 – 8,916 feet GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take I-17 North to Flagstaff. In Flagstaff, take I-40 east and then connect to Highway 89 north. Continue north on Highway 89 to the signed exit for Sunset Crater National Monument (FR 545) and turn right. Continue for less than a mile and then turn left at the “O’Leary Group Campground” sign onto FR 545A. Drive a short distance past the fee area campground to the gate and signed trailhead for “O’Leary Lookout”. There are restrooms and running water at the campground. The dirt roads are accessible by sedan.

APACHE VISTA

APACHE VISTA Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

UPDATE:

This trail has been impacted by the WALLOW FIRE, June 2011. Hovering over the town of Springerville in Arizona’s White Mountains, the Apache Vista Trail #617 showcases outstanding high-country scenery. Situated at 9,000 feet in elevation, the gentle path traipses through wide-open alpine meadows along the edge of a deep, forested canyon. Cool summer temperatures and ample rain foster profuse growths of multi-colored wildflowers and towering old-growth conifers. It’s no accident that the trail has the word “vista” in its name. Expansive views of volcanic fields and river gorges that stretch all the way into New Mexico are this trail’s signature attraction. Length: 5.2 miles round-trip Rating: easy Elevation gain: 50 feet Getting there: From downtown Eagar, go west on Highway 260 for roughly 3 miles to the Highway 261 junction. From there, turn left (south) on Highway 261 and continue for 7.2 miles to the trailhead on the left.