BEAR WALLOW-RENO LOOP

Reno-Bear Wallow Loop Bear Wallow Wilderness

Woodsy and wild, the 11,000-acre Bear Wallow Wilderness area is one of the best “untamed” hiking destinations in the state. A tributary of the mighty Black River, Bear Wallow Creek flows at the bottom of a deep canyon where countless feeder streams trickle downhill and pool in mucky, shallow bogs called wallows. Several trailheads access the area, however, a good introduction to this wilderness is to make a loop hike with the Reno and Bear Wallow trails. The loop begins on the Reno trail with a 2,000-foot plunge along a dizzying incline to the bottom of the canyon. Dense stands of pine, spruce and fir cling to the loamy slopes cloaking the trail in eerie light. At roughly the 2-mile point, the path dead-ends at the creek and the junction with the Bear Wallow Trail. There, sunlight breaks through the thick forest canopy and a cool dampness suspended in the air sets the tone for the next segment of the hike. From the junction, go left (east) following the slender path as it hugs the vegetation-choked banks of the north fork of the creek. Disheveled grasses in the wallows and telltale claw marks on tree stumps are constant reminders that this is bear country. In fact, this wilderness area is home to one of the state’s most robust black bear populations. Also seen in shades of cinnamon, blonde and gray, you’re not likely to encounter one of Arizona’s black bears along the trail--unless you’re wearing a ham around your neck. That’s because when the creatures see or hear you coming, they’ll retreat to cover. Bears won’t usually approach humans unless lured by the smell of food. However, it’s smart to learn how to behave if you do run into a bear on the trail by visiting the website listed below. About a mile past the junction, the trail swings northeast and begins a gradual climb through aspens and painterly alpine meadows. After rain showers (which are occur almost daily in summer), runoff covers portions of the trail in this section. But with some wadding and careful route finding, the long haul back up to the rim of the canyon isn’t too difficult. Once at the Bear Wallow trailhead, go left (west) on Forest Road 25 and hike 2.5 miles back to the Reno trailhead. This trail sustained significant damage due to the Wallow Fire, June 2011. Although it appears that the northwest section of the canyon is relatively intact, the area is  open but expect hazards . LENGTH: 7-mile loop RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 8,880' - 7,760' GETTING THERE: From Alpine, drive south on Highway 191 for 28 miles to Forest Road 25. Turn right (west) onto FR-25 and continue 5.2 miles to the signed Reno trailhead on the left. FR-25 is good gravel passable by sedan. INFO: http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/asnf/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=45281&actid=50

For information about Arizona’s black bears: http://www.bebearawaresw.org

TRAMWAY TRAIL

TRAMWAY TRAIL West Clear Creek Wilderness Contained within the striated walls of a remote canyon on the Mogollon Plateau is the most expressive example of what might happen if the powerful hand of Nature applied a sledgehammer to a mesa and filled the resultant wound with water. Narrow and deep, the rough-hewn upper reaches of West Clear Creek are a maze of cracked and tilted tributary slot canyons scoured out of contorted layers of sedimentary rocks. From its headwaters on the Mogollon Rim, the creek rips through a riparian gallery forest before merging with the Verde River 40-miles downstream. The Tramway Trail #32, which offers the easiest access to this pristine wilderness, begins on the cliffs overlooking the canyon. Here, remains of a defunct cable tram that was used from 1942 to 1965 to stock the creek with trout, hangs in rusted knots from an enormous Ponderosa pine tree. The route into the canyon is a spider crawl along a thin trail that clings to the siltstone precipice like a rocky fire escape. For those who are not bothered by heights, this trail’s steep switchbacks, rock-scrambles and dizzying drop-offs deliver a substantial adrenaline-rush. At the base of the trail, there’s a well-worn primitive campsite above a large pool of water where healthy tufts of Canada violets and ferns sprout from the loamy soil. Although the campsite marks the official end of the trail, adventurous hikers can pick their way along the creek through thick, wildlife-rich woodlands. At every bend in the stream, contorted, 800-foot-high canyon walls converge and seem to swallow up the sky only to release it as seldom-seen alcoves emerge from beyond the clutch of the stony precipice. HIGHLIGHTS: Steep canyon trail, singular geological features and many creek crossings. LENGTH: 1 mile round-trip (on trail) RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 6,650’ – 5,900’ DOG RATING: 2 paws Driving distance from Phoenix: 150 miles one-way Getting there: From Phoenix, go north on Interstate 17 to the Highway 260 interchange near Camp Verde. Go east on Hwy. 260 (General Crook Trail) to the junction with Highway 87. From there, go north (left) and continue for 11 miles to Lake Mary Road (Forest Road 3). Go north (left) on Lake Mary Road and continue for 7.5 miles to Forest Road 81. Turn west (left) onto FR 81 and drive 3 miles to Forest Road 81E. Follow FR 81E and the “Tramway Trail” and generic “trail” signs for 3.6 miles to FR 693. Go west (right) on FR 693 and continue 1.2 miles to a fork in the road. Turn left at the fork and drive less than a half-mile to the trailhead. A high-clearance vehicle is required.

ESCUDILLA MOUNTAIN TRAIL

Escudilla Mountain Trail # 308 Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

UPDATE:

Although this trail is open, it was heavily impacted by June 2011 Wallow Fire. 

http://www.inciweb.org/incident/2262/ Because of its extraordinary beauty and historical significance, the path up Escudilla Mountain has been designated a National Recreation Trail. The route doesn’t disappoint and begins living up to its reputation right from the start. Topping out at just under 10,900-feet of elevation, Escudilla Mountain Trail is Arizona’s third highest path– only the Humphreys Peak and Mount Baldy trails are higher. The hike begins in a breezy stand of aspens that crowd the slopes and resemble willowy ladies in feathered hats chattering over tea. Beyond the gateway of aspens, the trail emerges onto high-altitude grasslands flanked by patchworks of mixed-conifer forests and rich green glens ablaze with mountain blue bells and pink thistle. Amid this splendor, lived the last of Arizona’s grizzly bear population. The great predators called this place home until hunters ended their reign upon the mountain over a century ago. Near the summit, (which is home to Arizona’s loftiest fire lookout), the trail gets steeper and enters a shadowy pine forest where spongy mosses and lichens cling to boulders and trees and spew an herbal-musky perfume into the air. Lurking in the midst of it all, are the Southwest’s only Mexican gray wolves. Hunted to near extinction in the last century, Canis lupis baileyi was saved by the reintroduction project administered by Arizona Game & Fish. Since the first wolves were released in 1998, the packs have thrived and grown to several dozen individuals. Today, their territory spans the mountainous ranges on the border of Arizona and New Mexico. Elusive and fleet-of-foot, it’s likely that the only evidence of the wolves you’ll find along White Mountain trails is their distinctive straight-line tracks and a chorus of harmonic howls. Still, the fact that they are “out there” adds to the allure of the area. While grizzly bears are not likely to find their way back to Escudilla Mountain anytime soon—it’s comforting to think that the loss might be mitigated by the return of the wolves to their ancestral homeland. LENGTH: 6 miles round-trip RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 9,500 - 10,877 feet GETTING THERE: From Springerville, go south on Highway191/180 for about 20 miles to Forest Road 56 (between mileposts 420 and 421). Turn left on FR-56 and drive roughly 5 miles to the signed trailhead.
INFO: http://www.fs.usda.gov/wps/portal/fsinternet/!ut/p/c5/04_SB8K8xLLM9MSSzPy8xBz9CP0os3gDfxMDT8MwRydLA1cj72BTSw8jAwgAykeaxcN4jhYG_h4eYX5hPgYwefy6w0H24dcPNgEHcDTQ9_PIz03VL8iNMMgycVQEAIzTHkw!/dl3/d3/L2dJQSEvUUt3QS9ZQnZ3LzZfME80MEkxVkFCOTBFMktTNUJIMjAwMDAwMDA!/?ss=110301&ttype=recarea&recid=45293&actid=50&navtype=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&position=BROWSEBYSUBJECT&navid=110160000000000&pnavid=110000000000000&cid=FSE_003714&pname=Apache-Sitgreaves+National+Forest+-+Escudilla+National+Recreationa+Trail

SANDY'S CANYON

On the floor of Sandy's Canyon

the dunes

junction with Arizona Trail

Sandy’s Canyon Trail #87 Coconino National Forest Hidden deep within the walls of a majestic Northern Arizona canyon are an amazing collection of ancient sand dunes that formed in shallow seas more than 250 million years ago. Today, the weathered and cross-bedded limestone heaps with “elephant-skin” veneers stand as bizarre, stone sentinels among the pines in Sandy’s Canyon. Following the southernmost portion of Walnut Canyon --which severs the high plateau country near Flagstaff with a sweeping, fluid gesture--Sandy’s Canyon trail is one of the best ways to explore the gorge and get to the dunes. The pine-shaded first half-mile of the trail skirts the rim of the canyon for outstanding views of the area’s complex geology. The trail then plunges downhill through a forest of mixed conifer and oak. In addition to being home to some of the best “butterscotch pines” around (look for light-colored crackled bark and take a whiff) the rich, moist environment also fosters thickets of delicate Arizona roses, silver puffs and canyon grape. Once through the forest, the trail opens up and meanders through a sunny meadow and continues to the intersection with the Arizona Trail and the official end of the Sandy's Canyon trail.  However, from here,  hiking options abound. Go right to get a close-up look at the dunes and a small wind cave at the base. Past the cave, a primitive path leads into a tributary gorge of Walnut Canyon.  Or, go left on the Arizona Trail and follow it uphill to Fisher Point, a scenic lookout area above the dunes. LENGTH: 2 miles roundtrip on the "official" trail OR 4.8 miles round-trip with the optional trek into Walnut Canyon OR 7.2 miles roundtrip including Fisher Point.  RATING: moderate ELEVATION:6,600'-6,800' (6,600'-7,033' to Fisher Point)    GETTING THERE: From Phoenix travel north on I-17 to the exit 339 for Lake Mary Road (FH 3) located just before the I-17 and I-40 interchange. Go 5.5 miles south on Lake Mary Road to milepost 300, turn left at the sign for  Canyon Vista Campground (just past a cattle guard) and  drive 0.2 mile through the campground  park near the Canyon Vista Trailhead. The signed trail begins at the north end of the parking area. Facilities: restrooms
INFO: Flagstaff Ranger District, Coconino National Forest
http://www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino/recreation/mormon_lake/sandys-canyon-tr.shtml

THOMPSON TRAIL

Thompson Trail #629 Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

A babbling mountain stream in a pristine alpine meadow makes a welcoming gateway to the Thompson Trail. Never straying far from the water’s edge, the trail parallels the upper reaches of the West Fork of the Black River. The shallow tributary twists and turns through a canyon where soaring basalt walls and massive rough-hewn boulder fields add dramatic flair to the otherwise tranquil landscape. From the trailhead, the path dips into the river gorge. There, lacy curtains of olive-colored moss sway from the conifer canopy above the first of several dams and rock barriers put in place along the stream as part of the Apache trout recovery program. Found only in the streams and lakes of the White Mountains, Arizona’s state fish nearly became extinct due to the damaging effects of invasive species and loss of habitat. Thankfully, the Endangered Species Conservation Act of 1969 initiated a series of co-operative efforts to preserve the rare, speckled fish. The recovery program has been so successful that the Apache trout is now on track to become one of the first indigenous fishes in the United States to be taken off the endangered list. Beyond the dam, the trail heads out through a boggy field that’s alive with waist-high grasses, wildflowers and shrubs. Marked only by hard-to-find stepping-stones, this segment of the trail is a challenge to follow. Yet, the spectacular scenery in this corridor acts as a convenient distraction—so, you’ll hardly notice the route-finding struggle and the fact that you’re sloshing through ankle-deep muck. After that, though, the trail dries out as its crawls through damp thickets of vegetation including hops, raspberries and a spectacular array of mushrooms. Near the end of the trail, at the junction with the West Fork Trail, the roar of swirling rapids marks the turnaround point for the hike. UPDATE: May 2012.  This trail is now open, however there's significant damage from the 2011 WALLOW FIRE. LENGTH: 6.5 miles round-trip RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 8540'-8830'  feet. GETTING THERE: From Eagar, go right (west) on Highway 260 for 2.8 miles to Highway 261. Turn left (south) on Highway 261 and continue for just over 16 miles to Highway 273. Turn right (north) onto Highway 273 and go another 2.1 miles to the turn off for Forest Road 116. Turn left (south) on FR-116 and go 3.5 miles to the signed trailhead on the right. The trail begins at a gate located a short distance down FR-116 on the left. No facilities. No fees.

AGUA FRIA CANYON

AGUA FRIA CANYON Agua Fria National Monument North of Black Canyon City The guidebooks don’t mention the quicksand. The treacherous little sinkholes, disguised to look like normal sand, lurk along the beaches and in the sandbars of the Agua Fria river like so many land mines poised to suddenly grab onto a hiking boot and pull its occupant knee-deep into a mucky suction-hold. Quicksand is just one of the reasons why exploring in the canyon is not for the unadventurous or inexperienced. Following the rugged canyon where riparian vegetation flourishes on the shores, is quite difficult and requires complicated water crossings, boulder-hopping and route-finding skills. The hike starts out easy enough along a well-defined dirt road that merges into footpaths along Badger Springs. About a mile in, Badger Springs dumps into the Agua Fria river. There, ancient rock art on the northeast canyon walls signals the beginning of the difficult portion of the hike. At the confluence, head right (west) and follow the water into the canyon, taking time to scope out the landscape ahead as rapids and vertical rock faces present a continual maze of hazards. A good pair of gloves and sturdy boots with traction help in spots where climbing the ledges high above the river is necessary to circumvent obstacles. It’s also a good idea to place cairns or trail flags at “critical move” locations to assist on the way out. Lots of sweat, determination and use of smart hiking skills will get you through the canyon safely and with a bit of luck, you may even spot some of the pronghorn and bald eagles that the guidebooks promote to a fault. We didn’t see any pronghorn, or eagles on our-April visit, however, two vultures riding the air currents above served as a reminder to tread lightly and with caution. LENGTH: 3-12 miles (optional) RATING: easy then DIFFICULT ELEVATION GAIN: 560 feet BEST TIME TO HIKE: fall thru late spring GETTING THERE: Take I-17 north past the Sunset Point rest area and then take exit 256 (Badger Springs Road). Turn right at the exit (east) and drive about a quarter of a mile to the signed Agua Fria National Monument kiosk. There are free maps and an interpretive sign there. Once you have your maps, continue down Badger Springs Road for about a mile to the obvious parking area where there is also a “Badger Springs Wash” sign. The hike starts there. No fees, no facilities, no water, no mercy…come prepared!

LaBARGE NARROWS

LABARGE NARROWS: Superstition Wilderness Not for the novice hiker, this combination hike-cross-county exploration leads to a breathtaking, secluded box canyon with a tiny, riparian eco-system. The adventure follows Boulder Canyon Trail #103 along a desert ridge above Canyon Lake Marina to the 2.9-mile point where the main trail turns right. From there, leave the trail and bush whack down into the creek canyon. Here, the hike becomes a cross-country boulder scramble. The destination appears as a prominent pyramid-shaped outcropping upstream—use that as your guide. As the route traverses the rugged sycamore-and-bear-grass-lined washes, the going gets progressively tougher until, at the entrance to the “narrows”, the canyon is choked with massive quartz-encrusted monoliths. However, hikers in good shape will have no trouble picking through the rocks to reach the goal. Within the towering walls of the narrows, golden Velvet ash trees dot the shores of tiny pools like windswept beacons of light. Darting flocks of canyon wrens, chattering cardinals and roosting hawks find food and shelter among the cattails, reeds and willows that feast on the precious waters of LaBarge Creek. LENGTH: 9.4 miles out-and-back RATING: moderate-difficult ELEVATION: 1,600 – 2,400 feet GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, take Highway 60 east to Apache Junction to the Highway 88 (Idaho Road) exit. Turn left at the off ramp light and continue on Hwy-88 for approximately 15 miles to the Canyon Lake Marina between mileposts 210 and 211. Park in the designated trailhead spaces in the east section lot, near the highway. A Tonto Pass is NOT required. The trail begins at the sign for Boulder Canyon Trail #103 across the road.

BARNHART CANYON

BARNHART CANYON to the FALLS Mazatzal Wilderness Devastated by a wildfire in 2005, the oak-pine woodlands and manzanita-covered hillsides that formerly shaded the Barnhart trail, now reside only in our memories, hard drives and memory cards. What remains is an astonishing array of geological landforms and endless mountain views that have been laid bare for hikers to enjoy. The highlight of this rugged trail is a roaring waterfall nestled in a slot canyon. It takes a bit of scrambling to get to the falls, but the experience has earned a spot on my TOP 10 ARIZONA HIKES list. The best time to hike this trail is between mid-March and early April when snow melt sends hefty cascades of icy water over the cliffs for a spectacular water show that cumulates at Barnhart Falls--a secluded box canyon of red-tinged quartzite where a slender double water fall plunges 100 feet over the canyon walls. This trail is a MUST DO for all Arizona hikers. SEE MY 2010 ENTRY FOR A VIDEO OF THE UPPER WATERFALL. LENGTH: 7-9 miles round trip (7 miles to the falls and back) RATING: moderate ELEVATION: 4,200-6,100 feet GETTING THERE: From the Shea Blvd. intersection in Fountain Hills, go north on Highway 87 for 51 miles to the Barnhardt Trailhead turn off (FR 419) located a quarter mile south of the town of Gisela. Follow the dirt road 4 miles to the signed trailhead.

FISH CREEK

FISH CREEK CANYON Boulder-choked and jaw-dropping beautiful, Fish Creek Canyon harbors rare desert water in the middle of nowhere. The canyon’s perennial creek supports robust stands of white-bark sycamores, elegant, slim-leaf Goodding willows, cottonwood, velvet ash and Arizona walnut trees. The hearty plants are opportunistic parasites—earning their living by sinking their roots deeply into the earth to gorge like vampires upon the water that settles into the porous volcanic soils. Beginning in late October, crisp autumn air creeps into the canyon, painting the vegetation in loose, random strokes of russet, ocher and sulphur-yellow. Mottled, spent leaves collect in the clear waters and stony crevasses that house this wild, desert stream. Although there’s no established trail into the canyon, reasonably fit hikers easily can scrambling up the creek to roughly the 1.5-mile-point where a major barrier of disheveled rock denies further access to all but the most determined adventurers. LENGTH: 3 miles out-and-back RATING: difficult ELEVATION: 2,200 – 2,400 feet GETTING THERE: From Phoenix, go east on Highway 60 to the Highway 88 exit (Idaho Road). Turn left at the off ramp light and continue on Hwy. 88 for about 27 miles (past Canyon Lake and Tortilla Flat). Continue downhill on the steep, dirt, mountain road to the Fish Creek Bridge, which is located just past milepost 223. Finding the route: The hike starts near the yellow turn sign on the west side of the bridge. From there, scope out the cave in the cliffs and head toward it following primitive footpaths. Once at the cave, scramble downhill to the creek. From there, hike upstream (go right) among the boulders, sand and shallow pools.

SP CRATER

SP CRATER

San Francisco Volcanic Field

Of the more than 600 dormant cinder cones that dot the San Francisco Volcanic Field north of Flagstaff, SP Crater stands out among its peers. Just a pup in terms of geological time, SP Crater began erupting roughly 71,000 years ago. Today, its text-book cone-shaped slopes rise nearly 800 feet above the dusty flatlands of the Colorado Plateau. A very steep but short scramble on loose cinders up to the rim reveals a 400-foot-deep internal crater and a wonderland of volcanic features such as lava bombs, squeeze-ups, tiny splatter cones and a 5-mile-long lava flow that issues from the northern base of the mountain. From the rim, breathtaking views stretch all the way to southern Utah, the Grand Canyon and the painted desert. And oh, yeah---"SP" is the euphemism for the cowboy name for this hill: Shit Pot Crater. Use your imagination. HIKE LENGTH: 2.4 miles round-trip, including the hike up the saddle and around the rim RATING: moderate-difficult ELEVATION: 6,400- 7,000 feet GETTING THERE: From Flagstaff, go north on Highway 89 for about 32 miles to milepost 445.9 (just before Hank's Trading Post). Turn left onto an unmarked dirt road. Set your car odometer to zero. At the half-mile point, veer left at the fork and continue for 6 more miles heading toward the obvious, symmetrical cinder cone. At the 6-mile point, hang a right and take the road that leads to the saddle on the SW side of the crater. Those without 4-wheel-drive should park at the base of the saddle and hike up the road. Although there is no official route to the top, paths of use are obvious. NOTE: The access road to the crater is rough and many spur roads can be confusing--rules of thumb: go slow, steer toward the mountain and beware of irate cattle. COOL GEOLOGY LINK ABOUT THIS VOLCANO:

http://geology.com/volcano/sp-crater.shtml

Boots on the Ground

Arizona is without a doubt, a hiker's paradise. With diverse landscapes that range from saguaro-studded low deserts to alpine tundra, the Grand Canyon State offers year-round outdoor adventure. Thousands of miles of developed and primitive hiking trails traverse our 6 national forests, 60+ wilderness areas, state parks and other public lands. Contained within Arizona's 114,000 square-miles are fragile deserts, river canyons that foster lush riparian ecosystems, massive Ponderosa pine forests and high-altitude woodlands where deer, elk, black bears and Mexican gray wolves live among soaring aspens and high mountain peaks. This blog chronicles one hiker's impossible quest to place boots on the ground on every Arizona trail.