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Tuesday, September 14, 2021

Seven Mile Gulch Trail

SEVEN MILE GULCH TRAIL

It's a steep climb up Seven Mile Gulch trail

It’s a scare hikers don’t soon forget.  Low growling, rustling sounds coming from trailside shrubs that hint at something ominous or predatory abruptly morph into the dull pounding cadence of a roused beast before the makers burst from their cover.  This is what it sounds like when doves fly.  

Beautiful scrubland on the trail's exposed ridges

While the startling wildlife encounter is a familiar one in Arizona’s brushlands, it never loses its fright factor. 
Feathery seeds of Alderleaf mountain mahogany

Still, the experience dovetails nicely with hikes that challenge physical stamina as well as mental fortitude.  
A "rest spot" on the trail showcases great views

Hikers can test their mettle, and maybe rouse some doves, on Prescott’s Seven Mile Gulch Trail No. 9854.   
A monsoon storm brews over Seven Mile Gulch

Located in the Lynx Lake Recreation Area in Prescott National Forest just a couple miles south of State Route 69, the shared-use route offers a strenuous climb, diverse eco-zones, wildlife viewing opportunities and sweet mountain vistas.

The trail knocks off its nearly 1,300-foot ascent in a series of insanely vertical hauls with short breather segments and dips into woodsy enclaves. 

The hike begins in pine woodlands

The hike starts out as an easy, half-mile stroll

through pine woodlands before exiting the tree cover and heading uphill on the first of many sheer inclines. 

Brilliant scarlet creeper blooms May - October

Where the route begins its direct assault on the ridgelines and hills west of Lynx Lake the trail is surrounded by scrub oaks, manzanita shrubs, random juniper trees and acres of grasslands. 

Open to hikers, equestrians, bikes and small motorized vehicles, the trail follows a wide road of scaley, torn up metamorphic stone shelves and loose rocks. It’s difficult to imagine getting a bike, horse or ATV up this puppy.  If a dove jolt didn’t wake you up, this will.

Lush forest near Seven Mile Tank

 
At the 1.3-mile point, the trail begins a drop back into pine forests, where it bottoms out at Seven Mile Tank, a shallow water catchment where canyon grape vines and moisture-loving plants and wildflowers thrive in a sun-dappled pocket of greenery. 
Trail moves between scrublands and pine woodlands

The shaded hollow attracts deer, swarms of pollinators and the domestic cattle that roam in this historic livestock grazing area.
Slimleaf lima bean blooms May - October

The brief respite from exposed ridges soon ends and the climbing resumes with more slippery, vertical segments that reveal ever-expanding views of Prescott Valley, Spruce Mountain, the granite dells near Watson Lake, the vivid green course of Lynx Creek and Flagstaff’s San Francisco peaks on the distant horizon.  

Orange globemallow mingles with western yarrow

From sunny landings on the way up, acres of alderleaf mountain mahogany bushes that sprout long, feathery seeds in summer thru early fall blanket the surrounding slopes like winter frost.  
Birchleaf buckthorn berries ripen in fall

After 2.3 miles of unrelenting up, the route meets Ranch Trail No. 62 before gradually ducking back into pine forests for the final walk to where the trail ends at the junction with Watershed Trail No. 299 in the shadow of 7,631-foot Bigelow Peak. 
Beware of rogue wildlife bursting from scrub

There aren’t any good loop options using the connecting routes, unless roads are used, which is why most hikers make the junction their turnaround point.
Prairie clover attracts pollinators

LENGTH:  6.2 miles up-and-back

RATING:  difficult

ELEVATION: 5,506 – 6,767 feet

GETTING THERE:

From State Route 69 in Prescott, go 2 miles south on Walker Road to the trailhead on the right just past the Highlands Center.

INFO: Prescott National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/prescott/recreation/recarea/?recid=67659&actid=50

Monday, September 13, 2021

Botanical Bonanza

Botanical Bonanza

L-R: 1995 edition, 2012 edition, 2021 edition

 

One of the things readers of this blog appreciate most are the images and identifications of plants and wildflowers included with each hike description.  In addition to landmarks, geological formations and wildlife, vegetation is a defining characteristic of hiking trails.  Whether trekking through alpine tundra, pine-oak woodlands, chaparral or Arizona’s iconic Sonoran Desert, hikers encounter myriad species of trees, shrubs, cacti and wildflowers.  Appreciation of these colorful understories and canopies is enhanced by putting names to the sighted specimens.  

While I use multiple sources to help identify the plant photos I share, my go-to source for the past 25 years has been the Falcon Guide, Plants of Arizona.  About to be released in its third updated edition, the book features color images and accurate, concise descriptions of over 1000 plants that help non-pros like myself identify and learn about Arizona’s botanical bounty. Entries are sorted by flower color and descriptions include botanical names and plant family, habitat, blooming season, elevation range, whether the plant is native or invasive, common or rare and information about ethnobotanical uses, history and precautions.  The third edition has been upgraded with additional photos showing full-plant views and various flowering/fruiting stages of development.  A glossary of botanical terms, Arizona life zones and an overview of plant families round out this detailed, yet approachable guide. 

  

Plants of Arizona: Third Edition

By John F. Wiens and Anne Orth Epple

Falcon Guides

Paperback, October 2021, $34.95

512 pages, 6” x 9”


Tuesday, August 31, 2021

Schultz Creek Trail

SCHULTZ CREEK TRAIL

Aspens thrive on the upper reaches of Schultz Creek Trail

Slung between he edge-hugging dirt track of Schultz Pass Road and the sheer foothills below Mount Elden, Schultz Creek Trail rolls out like an emerald half-pipe.  Because of its fluid, north-south track, hairpin turns and mild jumps, the historic route in the Mount Elden-Dry Lakes Hills area just a few miles north of downtown Flagstaff is a magnet mountain bikers and hikers who don’t mind sharing the path with swooping wheeled traffic.

Mixed-conifer woodlands dominate much of the hike

The pine-cloistered trail clings to ledges above numerous drainages and the course of Schultz Creek.  The U-shaped space through which the trail runs is short on mountain views but long on woodland diversity.

The route shares space with the Arizona Trail

Throughout the hike, slash piles—pyramids of cut logs and brush--are stacked neatly off to the side.  The piles are part of the ongoing Midway portion of the Flagstaff Watershed Protection Project, a joint effort of state, city, and Coconino National Forest teams to help reduce the risk of catastrophic wildfires and post-fire flooding through treatments such as tree thinning and fuels reduction.

Views are spare in the "emerald half pipe."

Arizona gilia bloom May - September

Forest service contractors will be using heavy equipment to move the slash around Schultz Pass now through March 2022. Trail users should exercise caution and steer clear of oversized trucks around the Sunset trailhead and surrounding forest roads.  Parking at the south trailhead or overflow lot will be the smart move for the next few months.

Aspen fleabane color the trail July - October

The trail ducks among deep woods & aspen glens

Schultz Creek trail presents a constant but moderate climb that begins in Ponderosa pine forests that gradually merge with fir and spruce as the path approaches its higher elevations. 

A slash pile (center right) awaits removal

The first 2.9-mile slice of the route is also part of the Arizona National Scenic Trail Passage 34, one of the most beautiful and popular sections of the 800+-mile, state-traversing path. 
Yellow columbine bloom April - September

Right about where the Arizona Trail spins off to the left, aspen trees commandeer the landscape.  A break in the deep-woods shade that dominated much of the hike up to this point allows plenty of sun into the steep-walled ravine where the white-barked alpine trees thrive in moist meadows. 
Goldenrod is a common alpine summer bloomer

The final 1.5 miles to the north terminus at the Sunset trailhead stay close to Schultz Pass Road and the course of the creek. 
A monsoon storm brews over the Arizona Trail

Paralleling the seepy, swampy, willow-cluttered creek, the trail passes among colorful wildflowers fields and brambles before meeting the Schultz Loop trail, an optional mile-long detour that lands hikers near Schultz Tank where numerous routes link with the Fort Valley trail system, Kachina Peaks Wilderness and more Dry Lakes Hills paths.
Willows & brambles grow around Schultz Creek

LENGTH: 4.3 miles one way

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7,200 – 8,080 feet

GETTING THERE:

South trailhead & overflow parking:

In Flagstaff, go 3 miles north on U.S. 180 and turn right onto Schultz Pass Road (Forest Road 420).  Continue for a half mile then make a hard left at the FR 557 junction to stay on FR 420 and go another half mile to the Schultz Creek trailhead.  There’s additional parking at the FR420/557 junction.

North trailhead:

From the Schultz Creek trailhead turnoff, continue another 4.9 miles on FR 420 to the Sunset trailhead.

INFO:

Coconino National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recarea/?recid=55172

Arizona Trail

https://aztrail.org/explore/passages/passage-34-san-francisco-peaks/

Flagstaff Watershed Protection Project

https://flagstaffwatershedprotection.org/

Tuesday, August 24, 2021

Margs Draw Trail

MARGS DRAW TRAIL

Margs Draw Trail is in Munds Mtn Wilderness


One of the most amazing things about hiking in Sedona is that, from many trailheads, it’s just a few steps from pavement to paradise.

The central Arizona destination known for its red rock formations and creek-side attractions is a cluster of low-slung buildings, two-lane roads and structural color schemes that nix the glitz.

High desert vegetation on Margs Draw Trail

Even fast-food giant McDonald’s acquiesces to the mood by swapping out its signature neon golden arches for a recessed teal roadside logo.  The freeway-and-high-rise-free zone allows Sedona to settle in with a minimally disruptive footprint among the high desert hinterlands of Red Rock Secret Mountain and Munds Mountain Wilderness Areas.
A sandstone ledge over Margs Draw

The deep gorge of Margs Draw

Although tame by wilderness standards, Sedona’s easy-access trails provide excellent ways for just about anybody to experience protected areas where only foot traffic and equestrian travel is allowed.  One old standard to try is the Margs Draw Trail.

Prickly pear cactus thrive in sunny spots on the trail

Located close to the city center, the out-and-back route is easy to follow, has three convenient access points and links up with other trails at both ends for longer hikes. 

The trail is within the Munds Mountain Wilderness

Beginning at the north end of the 2-mile straight-shot route, the hike follows a short access path from the Schnebly Hill trailhead before crossing a road and stepping into the Munds Mountain Wilderness Area. 
Arizona cypress trees shade parts of the trail

The north-south running trail traverses foothills below the chiseled pinnacles surrounding 6,834-foot Munds Mountain.  A brim of weather-sculpted sandstone pillars bolsters the trail’s eastern edge. 
Snoopy Rock (center) is a highlight of the hike

Within the first half-mile, the iconic Snoopy Rock formation that resembles the beloved Peanuts cartoon canine reclining, belly-up on his doghouse appears on a ridge overhead. 
Jagged pillars of Munds Mountain Wilderness

Jogging among cypress woodlands, sunny ledges and rocky drainages, the trail also showcases views of Chimney Rock, Wilson Mountain and Capitol Butte.  At the half-way point, there’s a junction for the Sombert Lane trailhead which can be used to create a shorter version of this hike. 
Capitol Butte (far right) seen from the trail

About a 0.2-mile from the junction, the trail meets the gorge of Margs Draw. 
Easy access at the urban-forest interface

Blackfoot daisies bloom March- December

The deeply incised channel is marked by a curved sandstone overhang hovering over a slickrock passage dotted with cottonwood trees and pools of water left by monsoon rains. 

Sacred datura bloom April - November

Sweet-smelling wilderness woodlands

Moisture funneled through this major drainage feeds a colorful collection of pollinator-attracting wildflowers and blooming shrubs.  Soon, the prominent profiles of Twin Buttes and distant glimpses of the mountains and mesas of Prescott National Forest comes into view.
Crucifixion-thorn bloom May - August


A final downhill dip ends at the Broken Arrow trailhead where hikers may double back or use the map kiosk to continue to the loopy, piggy-named trails orbiting Twin Buttes.
Flat-topped Wilson Mountain seen from the trail

LENGTH: 4.4 miles roundtrip

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 4,231 – 4,451 feet

GETTING THERE:

North, Schnebly Hill Trailhead

From traffic circle located at the Oak Creek bridge on State Route 179 in Sedona, turn right onto Schnebly Hill Road and go one mile to the trailhead on the left. Roads are suitable for all vehicles. There is a restroom at the trailhead. FEE: A Red Rock Pass or equivalent is required. There is a permit kiosk at the trailhead.

Midway, Sombart Lane Trailhead

From State Route 179 about a mile before the traffic circle over Oak Creek, turn right onto Sombart Lane and continue 0.2-mile to the parking area. Hike the 0.2-mile access path to the trail.  No fee or facilities.

South, Broken Arrow Trailhead

From State Route 179 1.4 miles south of the SR179/89A traffic circle, turn right onto Morgan Road and continue 0.5-mile to the trailhead.  No fee or facilities.

INFO:

Coconino National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=55206&actid=50

 

Thursday, August 19, 2021

PHOENIX magazine The Hike Book

The Hike Book

Back by popular demand!  

When it was first published in April 2020, PHOENIX magazine, The Hike Book sold out within weeks.  Now in its 2nd printing, the original book featuring 228 hikes is back along with a 2021 companion volume with 100 new trails. Both are now available for pre-order.  Pre-ordered books will deliver in October.

Reserve your copies:

https://cities-west-publishing.square.site/product/HikeBook/295


Monday, August 16, 2021

Stone to Steel Dam Trail

STONE TO STEEL DAM TRAIL

Ash Fork-Bainbridge Steel Dam

Between the sleek lanes of Interstate 40 that connect the City of Williams and the town of Ash Fork, and the fading tracks of the Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad to the north, the space from hot pavement to rusty iron tracks is separated by sprawling grasslands, pinyon-juniper woodlands and about a hundred years.  Leaving the freeway in this airy divide is like slipping into a Twilight Zone of fringy places where defunct travel corridors live on in repurposed relevance.

Ash Fork Stone Dam

Long before the interstate highway system transformed tedious Point A-to-Point B hauls into a national obsession with recreational road tripping, travel in western states was all about railroads and the iconic Mother Road, Route 66.  

The Stone to Steel Dam Trail traces Johnson Canyon

The strip of land just a mile north of the I-40 Welch exit is unique in that all three transportation corridors are stacked and packed into a hike-bike-drive exploratory opportunity that culminates with a short trail that visits two historic dams.  Getting to the Stone to Steel Dam Trail is half the fun and sets the mood for a trip back in time.
Masonry Number Two Reservoir

The adventure begins with a two-mile cruise on Historic Route 66, which parallels the interstate.

View from Lookout Point spur trail

The decommissioned byway which now serves as a recreational route for motorized vehicles and bikes, snakes its way through hilly backcountry of the Kaibab National Forest on the Colorado Plateau.  The crumbling Mother Road is a potholed sequence of concrete, asphalt and futile patch jobs of random this-and-thats.  
Historic Steel Dam was built in 1895

Alternately dipping into weedy drainages and ascending to tree-speckled high crests, the road drive unpacks a mix of heart-thumping vistas and a taste of the isolation and unnerving hazards that early-to-mid 20th century travelers would have encountered.  The surreal atmosphere is so pervasive that modern visitors would hardly flinch if Tom Joad, the protagonist in John Steinbeck’s 1939 novel The Grapes of Wrath came chugging by in a make-shift truck.
Stone to Steel Dam Trail was dedicated in 2015

Just past a rickety cattle guard, a degraded dirt Jeep road descends a half-mile to Ash Fork Stone Dam and Masonry Number Two Reservoir.  The 600-foot-wide sandstone structure that spans Johnson Canyon was constructed in 1911 by the Atchison Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad to create a backup water supply for steam-powered locomotives.  The lake behind the dam is a popular fishing spot that’s open to the public and is a stocked with trout and bass by the Arizona Game & Fish Department.

View of Bill Williams Mountain from Historic Route 66

 

To find the hiking trail from the parking apron and kiosk above the water, follow the designated access route to the water and follow the shore to the dam.

Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad pulled water from the reservoirs

A few yards west of the dam along a dirt road, a sign and bench mark the trailhead for the Stone to Steel Dam Trail.  Dedicated in 2015, the 0.87-mile single track, non-motorized path that tethers Ash Fork-Bainbridge Steel Dam with Stone Dam was constructed through the joint efforts of Kaibab National Forest, Ash Fork Development Association and local volunteers.  The trail traces the edge of Johnson Canyon, showcasing a green riparian zone and tiny pools within the stony corridor.  A few yards in, a short Lookout Point spur trail leads to a scenic ledge with great views of the dam and distant mountains.  The mostly level trail jogs among junipers and cacti before ending at a kiosk overlooking the steel dam.  The impressive 184-foot rusted metal wall contains Steel Dam Reservoir. 
According to the forest service, the dam was built in 1895 (some sources say 1897 and 1898) and is one of only three steel dams ever built in the U.S. 

The back side of Steel Dam shows ingenious construction

The other two are located in Montana and Michigan, so this is truly an Arizona treasure.  Like the Stone Dam, this one was constructed to provide a water source for steam locomotives and the town of Ash Fork.
Stone Dam is 600 feet wide

Goodding's verbena is a common plant along the trail

The dams, the road and myriad hazy tales of coal-fueled cross-county trips and Dust Bowl migrations are relics of an era when the first tentacles of infrastructure opened up the West for settlers, adventurers, dreamers and the first generation of automobile culture.

LENGTH: 2.4 miles round trip as described here

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 5,641 to 5,400 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Williams, go 11 miles west on Interstate 40 to the Welch exit 151.  Drive a few yards north from the offramp on a dirt access road and make a hard right onto Forest Road 6.  Follow this dirt two track for a half mile to a “T” intersection and turn left onto Historic Route 66 which is signed as Forest Road 6E.  Continue 2 miles to an easy-to-miss turn off for Ash Fork Stone Dam.  This is located 0.2-mile past a cattle guard and there’s a sign posted a few yards in from the turn off.  The dam access road is rough dirt and requires at least a high-clearance vehicle.  The road is reasonably passable to the 0.2-mile point where there’s a parking apron for fishing access.  The trailhead is another 0.3-mile downhill but the road gets steep and dicey so it’s best to park at the apron and follow the designated access route to the dam.

FACILITIES: portable restroom

INFO:

Kaibab National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recarea/?recid=82006