Yellow Jacket Trail 524

YELLOW JACKET TRAIL

Prescott National Forest.

Mesquite and juniper trees ring Cottonwood Tank

The most striking characteristic of the Yellow Jacket Trail 524 is the silence. Located a mere 4 miles from Interstate 17 near the Yavapai County town of Dugas in a hilly corner of Prescott National Forest, the shared-use path cuts through sprawling open spaces where the sounds of civilization are muffled by a landscape of mesas, buttes, creeks and ragged drainages.

Estler Peak is a prominent feature along Yellow Jacket trail

At first glance, the largely treeless terrain flanked by volcanic bluffs and bald, isolated peaks appears intimidating and harsh. Within a few yards of hiking, though, the trail reveals bucolic rangeland, epic vistas and hidden pockets of greenery.

The out-and-back trek begins at a tiny trailhead near the leafy confluence of Little Ash Creek and Yellow Jacket Creek where sycamores and cottonwoods create a conspicuous ribbon of color against the muted tones of desert chaparral.

Sycamores & cottonwood trees in Yellow Jacket Creek

A cow grazes along Reimer Spring Road

Trail 524 is described by the forest service as a 1.4-mile route, but a 0.8-mile hike is required to get to the trailhead proper. The access path is a fading two-track that parallels the boulder-strewn course of Yellow Jacket Creek. The path makes many mild dips and climbs on breezy plains dotted with junipers, cacti and wildflowers. 

Cattle graze at the base of Yellow Jacket Mesa

A rustic corral at Gyetta Tank

To the west, great views of 4,263-foot Estler Peak, a prominent pinnacle along the drive in on Dugas Road, dominate the horizon.

Extend the hike on the Cottonwood Trail 9709

Cottonwood Tank attracts resident cattle and wildlife

At the signed junction for trail 524, the route begins its journey into stunning back country with the first of several creek crossings. The rocky, but usually dry crossings are fringed with scrappy stands of scrub oak, willows and catclaw. 

Part of the route follows the Great Western Trail

Soon, the dual landmarks of Yellow Jacket Mesa (4,751 feet)  and Cottonwood Mesa (4,577 feet) appear as intersecting plateaus on the eastern skyline standing out above the rustic corrals of Gyetta Tank.  Rusty barbed wire and sun-bleached posts circle the watering hole where herds of cattle can usually be seen grazing the surrounding grasslands.

At the end of the corrals, hop a bright green rollover gate to follow the trail to its terminus at Reiner Spring Road (Forest Road 68D) which is also part of the Great Western Trail, a 3,000+-mile shared-use historic route from Mexico to Canada that runs through five Western states, 800 miles of which are in Arizona.

Roll over gate at Gyetta Tank

The unsigned junction is the official end of the Yellow Jacket Trail and makes for a satisfying 4-mile round trip hike. But the adventure doesn’t have to end there. For a sweet taste of the Great Western Trail, head left at the junction and hike up the road watching as beautiful views of the Bradshaw Mountains open up to the west.

The road crosses the gorge of Cottonwood Canyon before emerging on an expansive rangeland at the mouth of a pass that flows between the two mesas.

At the 2.7-mile point, a sign for Reiner Spring and Cottonwood Tank marks yet another scenic transition.  Take the first right beyond the sign and follow the degraded road that plows though a draw where the mesas gradually pinch the path. 

Yellow Jacket (L) and Cottonwood Mesas 

The half-mile hike leads to Cottonwood Tank. Tucked into a gully at the convergence of the mesas, the glassy, mesquite-cluttered pond reflects vertical cliffs that top out 300 above the water.

Wandering cattle, flocks of doves and swarms of pollinators frequent the remote water source. Judging from footprints along the tank’s muddy rim, bobcats, deer, javelina and raccoons are regular guests as well.

Just a few yards east of the tank, a cattle guard and sign post for the Cottonwood Trail 9709 signals the beginning of an optional continuation of the hike.

Trail 9709 goes up and over Cottonwood Mesa and is 3.5 miles long, but it’s just a mile to the high point which serves as a nice turnaround point for an even 9-miler.

It's a 0.8-mile hike to the trailhead proper

LENGTH:

Yellow Jacket Trail: 4.4 miles round trip

Yellow Jacket Trail + Cottonwood Tank: 7 miles round trip

Yellow Jacket Trail + Cottonwood Trail to the top of the mesa: 9 miles round trip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 3,883 – 4,235 feet to Cottonwood Tank

(4,524 feet to the top of the mesa)

GETTING THERE:

From the Cordes Junction interchange on Interstate 17, continue  5.5 miles north to the Orme Road/ Dugas Road exit 268. Go east (right) at the bottom of the off ramp and follow County Road 171 (Dugas Road) 4 miles to the trailhead on the left. The trailhead is an unsigned gravel lot across from Forest Road 9650N and a “narrow bridge” sign. Roads are paved up to the last 2 miles which are on sedan-friendly dirt. The hike begins at the 524 sign.

INFO: Prescott National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/prescott/recreation/recarea/?recid=67411&actid=104

Balancing Rock-Surprise Spring Loop

BALANCING ROCK-SURPRISE SPRING LOOP

Granite Basin Recreation Area, Prescott.

Balancing Rock teeters on its host boulder along trail 349

Situated in a pocket of pine-oak woodlands at the south edge of Granite Mountain Wilderness seven miles northwest of Downtown Prescott, Granite Mountain Recreation Area offers

over 40 miles of interconnected trails, camping, picnicking and boating.

Drainage area near Surprise Spring on Balancing Rock trail

Area trails feature incredible views of the craggy escarpments of 7,295-foot Granite Mountain and varied terrain that runs through boulder-strewn back country.

Manzanita bloom in sunny spots along the route

For a taste of why this easy-access recreation hub is so popular, take a hike on the Balancing Rock and Surprise Spring trails. The circuit uses 3 trails to make a 3.8-mile loop.

An oak thicket on Balancing Rock trail

Begin at the trail 350 sign behind the pay station, hike 0.1-mile and turn left at the West Lake Trail 351 junction. Hike 0.7 mile on trail 351 passing several pretty stands of cottonwoods growing near moist drainages and turn left at the Balancing Rock Trail 349 junction. This 1.7-mile leg of the loop passes among thick stands of Ponderosa pines, oaks, alderleaf mountain mahogany and junipers with occasional fringes of agave and cacti that cling to life where sun leaks through the forest canopy. The eponymous rock formation appears on the left roughly 0.2-mile from the junction.

San Francisco peaks seen from Balancing Rock trail

The lopsided stone perched precariously atop a massive granite boulder is secure for now, but even a minor tectonic hiccup could bump it off its host. While this stone oddity is the centerpiece of the trail’s geological sites, it  isn’t the only one. Look for a “turkey gobbler” rock, xenoliths (chunks of material like quartz crystals embedded in boulders) and knife-edge slabs that have flaked off walls of granite.

Cottonwoods thrive along the West Lake trail

 About halfway through trail 349, the drainage area surrounding Surprise Spring appears as scoured channels, trickling runoff and sand bars.

Agaves and cacti sprout in sunny spots on the trail

Some of the land around spring is private property, so be sure to stay on the trail. Beyond the spring, the trail swings north, making a mild ascent on the ledges above the spring drainage. Soon, views of the Williamson Valley, Verde Valley and mountain peaks of Flagstaff appear above acres of scrub.

Granite Mountain seen from Surprise Spring trail

Alderleaf mountain mahogany

The route is well-signed and maintained

One of many stone oddities on Balancing Rock trail

Granite Mountain stands out above West Lake trail

The forest thins out where the trail meets the Surprise Spring trail 350 junction.  The final leg of the hike on trail 350 was damaged by the September 2019 lightning-caused Surprise Fire. Ash, burnt trees and patches of scorched earth are just minor distractions on the still-beautiful path.

The easy-moderate hike has many ups-and-downs

The 2019 Surprise Fire scorched parts of the trails

The trail has been trimmed and swept and thickets of blooming manzanita shrubs soften the harsh plots of charred debris. More gorgeous vistas of Granite Mountain and sprawling valleys vie for attention before the route spirals off its sunny high ridge descending among mixed conifer woodlands on its way back to the trailhead.

LENGTH: 3.8-mile loop

RATING: easy-moderate

ELEVATION: 5,640 – 6,070 feet

GETTING THERE:

From downtown Prescott, go north on Montezuma Street (which turns into Whipple Street and then Iron Springs Road) and continue 4.5 miles to N. Granite Basin Road at milepost 3.

Turn right and continue 3.1 miles to the Wekuvde trailhead on the right.

 Roads are paved and there are restrooms, picnic tables and grills at the trailhead.

FEE: There’s a $5 daily fee per vehicle. Bring exact change for the self-serve pay station/ Free with a Golden Age/Access of Interagency Senior/Access Pass. Wednesdays are free to everyone.

HOURS: March-April hours are 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Hours vary by season.

INFO:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/prescott/recreation/recarea/?recid=67619

Lousley Hill Trail

LOUSLEY HILL: McDowell Mountain Regional Park.

A hiker and his dog look out over the Verde River Valley

Finding a quiet place in McDowell Mountain Regional Park in Fountain Hills isn’t always easy.

With its long, flowing trails the 21,099-acre Maricopa County park in Fountain Hills is popular with mountain bikers, hikers and equestrians.

A rock stack marks the summit of Lousley Hill

Outfitted with camp sites, picnic areas, playgrounds and family-friend amenities and events, the park is a very busy place in Arizona’s cooler months. Still, solitude can be found, if you know where to look.

The area is recovering from a 1996 wildfire

The 1.2-mile Lousley Hill Trail is an under-the-radar gem that’s perfect for escaping the crowds.  The quiet trail offers easy access, a mild climb and scenic vistas of the Verde River Valley, McDowell Mountains and distant wilderness peaks. From the trailhead, a short access path crosses a sandy wash shaded by a mesquite trees to connect with the loop portion of the trail. Either leg of the loop works for the climbing part although the left leg is less steep and more gradual that the right.

The trail makes a moderate climb with great views all around

The trail hugs the exposed, brittlebush-covered slopes of a peak on the northern nub of the Lousley Hills, a north-south running ridge at the park’s east border.  The path is well-maintained but a little rocky. There are rest areas with benches on both legs of the loop to take a break if needed.

A lightening-cause fire in 1996 destroyed much of the park’s vegetation. Except for a few telltale black scars on saguaros, disintegrating tree skeletons and sparse tree cover, you’d never know that 14 years ago, the area looked like an ashen moonscape.

Lousley Hill Trail sports lush spring wildflowers

Since then, the scorched earth has given way to a resurgence of desert shrubs, trees and wildflowers. This is an especially pretty hike in spring when Mexican gold poppies color the foothills and surrounding plains.  Scattered stands of Palo verde trees and saguaro cacti provide spots of shade throughout the otherwise open-to-the-sky hike.  A series of long, lazy switchbacks land hikers on the tiny summit. A gigantic rock cairn sits at the top of the sunny vantage point with 360-degree views. 

Rugged terrain & mountain peaks seen from Lousley Hill Trail

Look for the distinctive knob of Red Mountain rising above emerald flood plains at the convergence of the Salt and Verde Rivers and the and hazy silhouettes of the Sierra Ancha mountain range. 

The trail's moderate grade is perfect for kids and dogs

The summit has plenty of nice spots to take a break or hang out to enjoy the solitude of an isolated desert bluff. If you’re up for more following this mini mountain assault, consult the park map to build a longer loop or out-and-back hike.

LENGTH: 1.2-mile loop

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 1,711 – 2,036 feet

GETTING THERE:

16300 McDowell Mountain Regional Park Dr., Fountain Hills.

From the park entry gate, follow McDowell Mountain Park Road past the main trailhead staging area to the Lousley Hill trailhead on the right. There’s a restroom nearby.

FEE: There’s a $7 daily fee per vehicle.

INFO: maricopacountyparks.net/mcdowell-mountain-regional-park-mm/

Ryal Canyon Trail

RYAL CANYON: Prescott National Forest

High desert vegetation lines the Ryal Canyon Trail 

Up until last year, gaining access to one of the most challenging hikes in the Camp Verde area was an iffy venture. Although the Ryal Canyon Trail 521 terminus is located right off Salt Mine Road just a few miles southeast of town, hikers had to cross private property to get to it.  The landowner was pretty chill about allowing people to walk the few yards between the road and the Prescott National Forest boundary where the trail begins, but the town of Camp Verde decided to do the right thing and make access to the popular multi-use trail legal.

Fractured earth and white cliffs on Ryal Canyon Trail

With a grant provided by Arizona State Parks and Trails and the Off-Highway Vehicle Recreation Fund, the city purchased a 4.4 acre buffer zone from the privately-owned Salt Mine Cattle Company. 

The hike begins at the boundary of Prescott National Forest

The purchase and subsequent development of a real trailhead are part of a larger effort to expand trail access and stoke interest in hiking in the Camp Verde area.

The roomy new trailhead has plenty of parking and provides worry-free access to trail 521. At this writing, the trailhead is open but still under construction. Trail signs and other planned amenities including a restroom and picnic ramadas have yet to be installed.  But the drive-up convenience doesn’t mean the rugged trail that’s known for its fierce workout value has been tamed. To find the route, just pass through the forest boundary gate and start hiking on the dirt two track that parallels a deeply rutted drainage area where hardy mesquite trees teeter over gaping cracks in the flat terrain.

The trail skirts the crest of Ryal Canyon

It takes about 10 minutes of walking to discover that this hike is not for the faint of heart.

Steep and rocky, the 2.5-mile path also has some sections that cling uncomfortably close to the precipitous edges.  The trail swings south, hugging the crest of Ryal Canyon via a series of aggressive vertical clambers with intermittent level sections. 

Ryal Canyon trailhead is still under construction

On the way up, the queasy track exposes views of the Verde Valley, Sedona, Flagstaff and the green course of the Verde River which get bigger and better with every few feet of elevation gained.

Mesquite trees thrive in the drainages around the trail

Throughout the hike, the landscape is dominated by sheer cliffs colorfully layered with clay, salt and gypsum. These sediments are the signatures of an ancient lake that ebbed and flowed between 10 and 2 million years ago. Long since eroded into a maze of crumbling embankments and chiseled mesas, the mineral-rich lake sediments have been mined for centuries. For a closer look at the history of these natural resources, visit the nearby Camp Verde Salt Mine which archeologists say may have been mined for over 2,000 years. It was abandoned in the 1930s and is currently being developed as an interpretive site.

Evidence of the area's salt deposits are visible on the hike

This hike also emphasizes the frustration of false summits.  Just when you think “I got this,” another brutally vertical hill tests your resolve. Relentless in its 1,650-foot upward haul and lack of climb-mitigating switchbacks, the hike is a wild workout your quads won’t soon forget.

San Francisco Peaks in Flagstaff seen in distance

Steep inclines on the trail make for a great workout.

Verde Valley views stand out throughout the hike

The trail ends at the junction with the Box T Trail 511. By referencing a forest service map, the east leg the 10.4-mile route may be used to create a loop hike. Otherwise, head back down on the Ryal Canyon trail where slippery inclines and vertical drops will have you wondering if the uphill slog was the easy part.

LENGTH: 5 miles round trip

RATING: moderate-difficult

ELEVATION: 3,110 – 4,760 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Interstate 17 in Camp Verde, take the State Route 260 exit 287.  Go 1.6 miles east on SR 260 (toward Payson) to Oasis Road, where there’s a sign for Copper Canyon Trailhead. Turn right and follow Oasis Road PAST the Copper Canyon Trailhead (Forest Road 136) to a stop sign. Turn right onto Salt Mine Road (not signed) and continue 2 miles to the large trailhead on the right. Hike begins at the national forest boundary gate. Access roads are 100% paved.

INFO: Prescott National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/prescott/recreation/horseriding-camping/recarea/?recid=67409&actid=104

Camp Verde Salt Mine

https://visitcampverde.com/campverde/verde-salt-mine/

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SPRING VALLEY TRAIL

SPRING VALLEY TRAIL: Hells Canyon Wilderness Area

A stock tank on Spring Valley Trail

When the itch to “Get the hell out of Dodge” hits Arizona city-dwelling hikers, sometimes all it takes to scratch it is a free afternoon and a short drive. 

A rustic gate frames views of distant Tonto NF peaks

Spanning 9,951 acres of back country a few miles northwest of Lake Pleasant approximately 25 miles north of Phoenix, Hells Canyon Wilderness Area offers a quick way to escape into an untamed swath of desert that’s more paradise than purgatory.

Small in comparison to other Arizona wilderness areas like Mazatzal (252,500 acres) and Superstition (160,200 acres)  Hells Canyon, which straddles Maricopa and Yavapai counties, was established in 1990 and is managed by the Bureau of Land Management.

A hiker takes in the views from a ledge above Garfias Wash

Of the several sketchy routes that wander through the area, the most popular and easiest to follow is the Spring Valley Trail. Except for a few BLM posts at the trailhead, the route is refreshingly devoid of signage which complements the hike’s remote atmosphere.  Navigating the trail involves only two crux moves: finding the trailhead and climbing down into Garfias Wash. For the later, the problem is easily solved by paying attention at the parking area.

From the dirt turnouts near a cattle guard on the access road, locate the small trail sign on the west berm. Then, look across the creek bed and spot the white trail register and a huge rock cairn that mark the official trailhead. Next, hike a few yards down the road, turn onto a wide dirt two-track and follow it a short way to a worn sign where you’ll turn right and use a series of cairns to work your way across the usually dry corridor of Castle Creek. From the register, head right and uphill along a well-defined path. At the top of the rise, go left where two big cairns mark the unsigned junction of the Spring Valley and Hermit trails. Beyond this point it’s clear sailing.

Spring Valley Trail is in Hells Canyon Wilderness Area

The trail dips and climbs through rocky terrain in the foothills of the Hieroglyphic Mountains passing by brilliant ocher mounds of volcanic tuff (compacted ash) embedded with rock fragments and other pyroclastic particles welded in a haphazard concrete-like structures. The trail’s west side is dominated by a sheer ridge line that rises to 2,904 feet. Below its crumbling slopes, acres of giant saguaros tower above sunny fields that are productive environs for spring wildflowers. 

Finding the trailhead isn't too difficult if you pay attention

Just past the one-mile point, the trail crosses an earthen dam that contains a stock tank frequented by native wildlife and the feral burros that live in the area.   

A rock cairn marks the way across Castle Creek

Although you may or may not catch a glimpse of the burros, their footprints and droppings around the tank and throughout the hike belie their presence. If you encounter them, it’s smart to keep your distance because they’ve been known to kick. Also, as with all wild animals, never approach, harass or feed them.  As the trail moves toward its highest point, be sure to pause and take in the ever-widening views of Castle Creek Wilderness and the Bradshaw Mountains in Prescott National Forest to the north and the New River Mountains in Tonto National Forest to the east and the glinting waters of Lake Pleasant.

The trail seems to end at the nose of the ridge overlooking Garfias Wash, but there are several options to extend the trek. You can opt to follow a faint trail heading right and an even more sketchy path that spins off the obvious trail and switchbacks steeply down to the wash or continue on a narrow cairned path that swerves north tracing the ridge line. Either way, the area’s rough nooks, washes and interesting geology hold many scenic surprises to explore.

The area's sunny slopes burst with wildflowers in spring

Lake Pleasant stands out on the southeast horizon

When done poking around, head back the way you came making note of distant dust plumes being kicked up by vehicles driving north toward Castle Hot Springs resort. The recently resurrected private spa secluded at the base of 3,260-foot Governors Peak is a luxury oasis built around natural hot springs that have attracted tourists since 1896.

The trail traces the slopes below Peak 2904

Huge saguaros thrive in the rugged backcountry

The trail has a remote, feral atmosphere.

A tiny sign on Castle Hot Springs Road directs hikers

Volcanic tuff features line the route

Hiker walks a ridge above Garfias Wash

Castle Hot Springs resort is hidden in the hills to the north

It’s not visible from the trail, but the posh, palm-shaded refuge that’s located just north of the wilderness boundary offers an alternative way to escape from Dodge for those who prefer clean sheets, Green Garden Gazpacho and craft cocktails over wilderness staples of tents, trail mix and electrolyte drinks.

LENGTH: 5 miles out-and-back

RATING:  moderate

ELEVATION: 1,800 – 1,920 feet

GETTING THERE:

Castle Creek Trailhead

From Interstate 17 in Phoenix, take the State Route 74 exit 223 (Carefree Highway) and go 11.4 miles west (toward Wickenburg) to Castle Hot Springs Road which is signed for Lake Pleasant Regional Park. Follow Castle Hot Springs Road 5.4 miles to the stop sign at the park’s north entrance. Turn left and drive 5.4 miles to a cattle guard past milepost 25 and park in any of the dirt turnouts along the road. Castle Hot Springs Road is graded dirt suitable for carefully-driven sedans. Part of the road crosses Castle Creek which may be impassable after storms.

INFO:

https://www.blm.gov/visit/search-details/275107/1