CRATER LAKE

CRATER LAKE, Coconino National Forest

Crater Lake fills the vent of an extinct cinder cone

The light, porous cinders that put a roll and crunch in your step on the mountain trail that leads to Crater Lake belie the site’s fiery origins.  When viewed from the dusty dirt roads that pass by its base, the 8460-foot-high cinder cone volcano blends in with dozens of another mundane hills that dot the  Coconino National Forest 20 miles northwest of Flagstaff.  

San Francisco Peaks seen from Crater Lake volcano.

But a surprise at trail’s end makes this little mountain special.

During their active phases, cinder cone volcanoes live fast and furious lives. Although they are like a fly-in-the-soup in terms of igneous impact on the landscape when compared to the likes of other nearby volcanic mountains like the San Francisco Peaks or Kendrick Peak, these spitfires leave interesting residuals.

Kendrick Peak is visible through most of the hike

Crater Lake volcano seen from Forest Road 760

View from the road leading to Crater Lake

The conical hills that rarely break 1000 feet in height form when gas-propelled lava blasts from the earth in what has been described as “curtains of fire”. The bubbly spatter flies high into the sky cooling quickly into bits of ash, cinders (scoria) and pock-marked blobs that fall back to earth to form mound of  pyroclastic debris around the central vent.

Wright's Bluets bloom May through September

The process continues over months to decades before the eruption runs out of gas, the fireworks subside and a belch of viscous lava signals the end of the hill’s active period. Thousands to millions of years later, some of these spent magma geysers have taken on second lives as hiking destinations and tourist attractions.  Of the roughly 600 cinder cones in the San Francisco Volcanic Field in northern Arizona, several are well-known natural wonders.  The collapsed walls of Red Mountain expose complex volcanic structure while the young, intact Sunset Crater and its raw lava flow is an outdoor science festival.

Butter and Eggs bloom on the summit road

Others, like the Crater Lake volcano, live a less-showy, but intriguing retirement. The trek to this quiet geological find is an easy stroll on backroads below the east face of Kendrick Peak.  Begin hiking on Forest Road 9009D--a rough two-track--through piney cattle country. At the 0.8-mile point, a series of berms mark where the road has been decommissioned and closed to motorized travel. Follow the road scar another 0.2-mile to Forest Road 9009V on the right which swerves onto the mountain for a moderate half-mile climb to the rim of the crater. This short climb packs in some terrific views of the San Francisco Peaks, Crowley Park (an open meadow area) and Kendrick Peak.

San Francisco Peaks loom southeast of Crater Lake

 

Crater Lake approach.

Approaching Crater Lake

At the top of the trail, a wood cattle fence serves as a gateway to the jewel of the hike.  Directly ahead, a shallow pond shaded by pines and firs fills the basin that was the volcano’s central vent.  Alive with lush grasses and wildflowers, the aspen-ringed paradise is wrapped in a crusty rim of ragged stone.  A walk around the boggy, bowl-like depression reveals evidence of abundant wildlife activity. Footprints and scat speak to the importance of this watering hole to resident elk, deer, racoons, bear and birds.

A log soaks in Crater Lake

East flanks of Kendrick Peak tower over Crater Lake

Within this cloistered hollow, the hush and rustle of leaves makes it difficult to imagine that hot vapors and flames once spewed from the eroded vent.  Sometimes, in the early morning hours, the crater emulates its origins when the summer sun coaxes a smoke-like mist from the dewy swale. 

Volcanic ejecta on Crater Lake volcano

LENGTH: 3 miles roundtrip

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7,955 – 8,460 feet

GETTING THERE: From Flagstaff, go 18.3 miles north on U.S. 180 to Forest Road 760 (just past milepost 234). Turn left and continue 0.9 mile and bear right at a fork. At 1.1 mile, continue straight ahead at the crossroads for the Kendrick Snowmobile trails. From this point, continue 1.0 mile to Forest Road 9009D on the left. The road sign is located roughly 100 feet in from the FR760 and is easy to miss. Park in the roadside pullouts. 

COUNTRY CLUB TRAIL

COUNTRY CLUB TRAIL, Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Mount Baldy seen from Pat Mullen Mountain

The White Mountains TRACKS Trail System is a loopy network of non-motorized paths that spans a strip of the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest from Linden to Vernon in northeastern Arizona’s White Mountains. 

Cattle graze in Whitcomb Pasture June - October

The approachable, customizable trails offer dozens of options ranging from easy strolls located just steps from town to long distance backwoods excursions. Eleven major loops are tethered by connector trails that enable seamless travel for challenging day hikes or multi-day backpacking.

Meadow salsify bloom June through September

The route passes through several rustic gates

Fendler's ceanothus shrubs grow along Country Club Trail

At the heart of the system, the towns of Show Low and Pinetop-Lakeside provide plenty of jumping off points for exploring this diverse system that encompasses a wide range of environs including arid pinyon-juniper grasslands, humid creekside corridors and fragrant pine woodlands.

Natural picnic seating on the summit of Pat Mullen Mtn.

A good introductory TRACKS choice is the Country Club Trail. Located just a few miles off State Route 260 in Pinetop-Lakeside, the 3.25-mile loop is a pleasant walk through shady forests and spring-fed meadows.  From the trailhead kiosk, the hike begins as a mellow meander in sun-spackled pine-oak woodlands.  Like all TRACKS trails, this one has excellent signage.  Tree tags point the way and location markers placed roughly every quarter mile correspond with maps available online and at the trailhead let hikers know exactly where they are on the route. Where the trail crosses the many dirt roads in the area, be sure to locate the next marker before proceeding to keep from wandering off course. 

White Mountains vistas seen from Pat Mullen Mtn.

Fleabane is a common high-country summer plant

Pine-oak woodlands on the Country Club Trail

Watch for trail markers where the route crosses forest roads

About a mile in, the trail passes a gate and enters Whitcomb Pasture. From June through October, cattle graze in the dewy fields nurtured by the dribbles of Whitcomb and Chipmunk Springs. Beyond the meadows, the trail begins a mild climb on the flanks of Pat Mullen Mountain.  

The half-mile vista spur has great views

For glimpses of classic White Mountains vistas, take the optional half-mile spur path that ascends 300 feet to the 7,612-foot summit. 

Rocky Mountain irises bloom in Whitcomb Pasture

Although the short climb is smothered in pines, oaks and  a few spectacular specimens of ancient Alligator junipers, views of the surrounding terrain can be seen through breaks in the foliage.

Enormous Alligator junipers shade the Pat Mullen Mtn spur

The massive form of Mount Baldy (11,403’), Blue Ridge Mountain (7,656’) and numerous cinder cone volcanoes jut above seemingly endless swaths of trees. 

Wild roses grow in moist areas along the trail

Although views are sparse on the summit, huge basalt shelves and jumbled boulders provide ample seating for a snack break or breather before taking on the final easy mile back to the trailhead.

Gate at Whitcomb pasture

A pine sapling sprouts near a common mullein plant

Snow lingers on 11,403 foot Mt. Baldy

LENGTH: 3.25-mile loop or 4.25 miles with the Pat Mullen Mountain spur.

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7200 – 7612 feet

GETTING THERE:

In Pinetop-Lakeside go south on State Route 260 (White Mountain Blvd.) to the traffic signal at Buck Springs Road at milepost 355.  Continue 0.6 mile and turn left onto to Sky Hi Road (Forest Road 182).  Follow Sky Hi Road 1.8 miles to the 632 trailhead on the right at the junction with Forest Road 185. All access roads are sedan friendly.

INFO: White Mountains Tracks Trail System

https://www.trackswhitemountains.org/trails/

DAVENPORT HILL

DAVENPORT HILL: Kaibab National Forest

Dogtown Lake & Bill Williams Mtn from Davenport Trl

Situated in the far southwest corner of the San Francisco Volcanic Field--a swath of impressive igneous features that arcs from the northern Arizona town of Williams to Flagstaff-- Davenport Hill is an anthill among giants.

Pines frame views of Kaibab National Forest

The 7805-foot mesa-like mound near Dogtown Lake 8 miles southeast of Williams barely registers a blip on hiker radar and recedes when compared to nearby lava domes and composite volcanoes like Bill Williams Mountain (8,800 feet), San Francisco Peaks (12,633 feet) and Kendrick Peak (10,418 feet).  Like its contemporary mounts, Davenport Hill sports a scenic trail that leads to its summit. For a less physically-demanding but rewarding summit trek, a hike up this little hill delivers the goods without the pain.

Summit of 7805-foot Davenport Hill

Lupines thrive in oak woodlands on Davenport Hill

Deeply wooded for its entire length, the trail twists up the hill’s north face through several vegetation zones, terrain types and vista orientations for a continually-changing sensory experience.   

Small-leaf pussytoes bloom May - August

The trek begins on the Ponderosa Trail, a 1-mile interpretive loop that passes through pine forests at the edge of green wetlands behind the Dogtown Lake dam. The moist swale that bisects this easy loop is a magnet for mountain bluebirds, robins, Steller’s jays, waterfowl, elk, bears and furry critters. In summer the moist drainage area fosters Rocky Mountain irises and dozens of other high-elevation wildflowers that add color to the forest floor. At the 0.3-mile point, turn right at the Davenport Hill trail sign where the route passes a gate before taking on the mountain in a leisurely mix of short, steep climbs and lingering inclines. Although the trail ascends 755 feet, flowing switchbacks take most of the sweat and toil out of the climb. The first mile is an effortless stroll through woodlands of Gambel oak, Ponderosa pines and sunny clearings. The uphill trudge begins where the trail crosses unsigned Forest Road 717 and moves onto the first of several edge-hugging switchbacks.

Wetlands on the Ponderosa Trail

Now comes the best part—breaks in the tree cover reveal views of the mountains and prairies of the Kaibab National Forest and the faint clank and hum of passing trains.

A hike around Dogtown Lake adds 1.8 miles to the hike

Look carefully in the direction of the mournful rattles and horns and you might spot a train snaking across the plains. On clear days, the bright white turbines of the Perrin Ranch Wind Energy Center can be seen dotting the plains 13 miles north of Williams.

White firs shade the upper portion of the trail

When operating at full capacity, the array of sixty-two, 262-foot-high turbines provide clean energy for more than 20,000 Arizona homes.  Farther up, the trail ducks into a sheer canyon shaded with moss-draped Douglas and white firs.  The slim path traverses the canyon walls landing hikers on the final uphill haul where picture-perfect views of Dogtown Lake and Bill Williams Mountain dominate the horizon.  Once past a second gate (with a stubborn barbed wire latch) the trail emerges on the summit ridge for a short, flat walk to the highpoint.

San Francisco Peaks seen from Davenport Hill summit

Robust stands of oak arch over the footpath that’s lined with lupine and globs of russet basalt that confirm the hill’s volcanic origins. 

Wind turbines visible in the distance

A massive rock pile made of the same reddish lava blobs (and artfully- arranged animal bones) found along the trail marks the summit proper.

Lupines color the forest floor

Beyond the super cairn, views of the San Francisco Peaks stand out on the northeast skyline. Given its position on the dubious side of hiker radar; chances are pretty good that you’ll have this quiet mountain top all to yourself.

Dense tree cover frames great views

A rustic gate marks the summit approach

Descend back to the Ponderosa Trail junction along the same path but take the opposite fork to complete the loop. If you’re still up for more, step out on the informal angler path that circles the lake for an additional, easy 1.8 miles of shoreline hiking around the high-elevation fishing hole that’s prized for its abundant trout, bass and catfish as well as for watercraft recreation.

Bill Williams Mountain looms over Kaibab NF woodlands 

View from the summit of Davenport Hill

LENGTH: 5.6 miles roundtrip (not including lake circumference hike)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7050 - 7805 feet

GETTING THERE:

In Williams, go 3.8 miles south on Fourth Street (County Road 73/Perkinsville Road) to Forest Road 140. Turn east (left) onto FR 140 and go 2.8 miles to Forest Road 132, turn north (left) onto FR 132 and go 1.2 miles to the boat ramp at Dogtown Lake campground. From the boat ramp parking area, follow the Ponderosa Trail 0.2-mile to the Davenport Hill trail junction.

There’s no fee for day-use parking and there are restrooms and picnic tables nearby. Camping is by reservation only.

INFO: Kaibab National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=11671&actid=50

ARIZONA TRAIL HAPPY JACK PASSAGE 28 GETS A REBOOT

ARIZONA TRAIL HAPPY JACK PASSAGE 28 GETS A REBOOT

Shawn Redfield at a super gate on AZT Passage 28

At a recent Arizona Trail Association (ATA) volunteer vacation work event on the Happy Jack segment of the trail on the Mogollon Rim, a reoccurring mantra drove the mission. “The trail doesn’t build itself.” Although the goal of constructing the 800-mile Arizona National Scenic Trail that runs from Mexico to Utah has been achieved, the route will never really be “finished”. Now, efforts have shifted from bridging the holes in the contiguous route to improving and maintaining trail conditions and enhancing user experience.

AZT steward Tasha Pontifex works on reroute of AZT

“When the Arizona Trail was originally planned, early trail advocates and land management agencies identified existing trails that could be designated as the Arizona Trail,” said Matt Nelson, Executive Director of the Arizona Trail Association.

Wendy Lotze demonstrates tool safety protocols

AZT volunteers hike to the construction site

“Connecting the gaps between existing trails was done by utilizing existing dirt roads. Then, the gaps that still existed necessitated trail construction,” Nelson explained. “The approximately 20 miles on the Coconino National Forest south of Mormon Lake (Happy Jack Passage #28) is a prime example. Since the forest contains hundreds of miles of dirt roads, it was easier to use existing roadways and build trail where there wasn’t already a “path.” However, the National Scenic Trail Act requires National Scenic Trails be non-motorized pathways, and a “desired condition” is to minimize motorized interface between non-motorized trail users and motorists. The Happy Jack Passage has consistently been commented on as the least desirable for AZT users, and receives no day use hikers, runners or mountain bikers because it’s not a pleasant trail experience.”

The new and improved trail takes shape

Project leads: Shawn, Wendy (AZT)  & Brady Vandragt (FS)

Thru-hikers (trekkers who hike the entire trail) have long maligned the 29.4-mile passage as “a boring road hike” (or as Nelson described it; “a numb experience”) and scratched it off as a means-to-an-end. Even with its scenic pine woodlands and many stock tanks that serve as water sources and wildlife magnets, the passage has wallowed in its “middle child” status. The Happy Jack Singletrack Project seeks to bring the woodsy segment on the Mogollon Rim up to par. The three-year project, now in its second season, will result in a major reboot.

“The ATA has long desired a better alignment for this section, acknowledging that forest roads—badly eroded ones at that—are not ideal for a National Scenic Trail,” said Shawn Redfield, Trail Director, Arizona Trail Association.  “The new alignment was devised by U.S. Forest Service staff, based on topography, water sources and scenic features, and avoiding endangered species habitat.”

Volunteers rallied during a trail-building event held from May 26 – 30, 2019, one of several efforts that will augment the heavy-lifting done by American Conservation Corps workers and hired heavy equipment.

AZT Volunteer Coordinator Wendy Lotze

Volunteer Vacation base camp on the Mogollon Rim

“The volunteer vacation is part of a much larger, 3-year project to reroute the AZT off of 18 miles of old forest roads and on to newly-built singletrack trail,” Redfield said.

“The project is funded by a Recreation Trails Project grant from Arizona State Parks, Forest Service contributions, significant donations from REI, and funds from the ATA.  

Wendy Lotze guides a volunteer trail builder

American Conservation Experience youth corps from Flagstaff is doing a lot of work with hand crews and machines. ATA will hire additional machine work later this year.

In addition to the 18 miles of new trail, the project includes several kiosks at trailheads, 15 AZT super gates, 5 bike rollovers, a horse hitching rail, and numerous signs and markers placed along the new route.”

Volunteers are always needed for construction and maintenance projects and no special skills are required.

AZT workers plan the new route

“Can we say it again? The trail doesn’t build itself,” said Wendy Lotze, Arizona Trail Volunteer Coordinator and Happy Jack project lead at the May event.  During her on-site training demonstrations, Lotze explained safety protocols and proper use of tools while repeating the project goals and acknowledging that ongoing volunteer contributions are crucial to the trail’s future. “Our priorities are safety, fun and productivity. In that order. It’s more important that you stay safe and enjoy your experience here rather than burn out trying to build a lot of trail,” she said to project participants. “We want you to come back.” Even those who are not able or willing to get their hands dirty can still help out.

Orange flags denote the reroute location

“If swinging a pick isn’t possible for an interested volunteer, there are numerous other opportunities to help. We always need help with preparing lunches and shuttling volunteers. The ATA is continually raising funds to offset our share of the considerable project costs, so if you can’t make it into the field and still want to support the Happy Jack Singletrack Project, consider writing a check”, said Matt Nelson.

Volunteers got some nice swag

The reroute will improve user experience

Volunteers prepare to hike out to the construction site

So far, several miles of the reroute have been completed and updated maps are posted on the AZT website. No longer a soul-deadening trudge, the new route is now located away from roads. “The improvement in the scenic nature of the trail and the user-experience is dramatic,” Redfield said.  Day hikers will now find that the passage is an approachable way to step out into the forest without having to dodge motorized traffic.

“The best thing that could happen to this trail is to get a bunch of [foot] traffic over it as soon as possible to pack it down and harden the surface. If this thru-hiker season and social media “buzz” is any indication, getting traffic over the new trail is not going to be an issue,” Redfield added.

ARIZONA TRAIL PASSAGE 28:

LENGTH: 29.4 miles

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 6733 – 7618 feet

EXPLORE, VOLUNTEER, DONATE:

https://aztrail.org/explore/passages/passage-28-happy-jack/