COUNTRY CLUB TRAIL

COUNTRY CLUB TRAIL, Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest

Mount Baldy seen from Pat Mullen Mountain

The White Mountains TRACKS Trail System is a loopy network of non-motorized paths that spans a strip of the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest from Linden to Vernon in northeastern Arizona’s White Mountains. 

Cattle graze in Whitcomb Pasture June - October

The approachable, customizable trails offer dozens of options ranging from easy strolls located just steps from town to long distance backwoods excursions. Eleven major loops are tethered by connector trails that enable seamless travel for challenging day hikes or multi-day backpacking.

Meadow salsify bloom June through September

The route passes through several rustic gates

Fendler's ceanothus shrubs grow along Country Club Trail

At the heart of the system, the towns of Show Low and Pinetop-Lakeside provide plenty of jumping off points for exploring this diverse system that encompasses a wide range of environs including arid pinyon-juniper grasslands, humid creekside corridors and fragrant pine woodlands.

Natural picnic seating on the summit of Pat Mullen Mtn.

A good introductory TRACKS choice is the Country Club Trail. Located just a few miles off State Route 260 in Pinetop-Lakeside, the 3.25-mile loop is a pleasant walk through shady forests and spring-fed meadows.  From the trailhead kiosk, the hike begins as a mellow meander in sun-spackled pine-oak woodlands.  Like all TRACKS trails, this one has excellent signage.  Tree tags point the way and location markers placed roughly every quarter mile correspond with maps available online and at the trailhead let hikers know exactly where they are on the route. Where the trail crosses the many dirt roads in the area, be sure to locate the next marker before proceeding to keep from wandering off course. 

White Mountains vistas seen from Pat Mullen Mtn.

Fleabane is a common high-country summer plant

Pine-oak woodlands on the Country Club Trail

Watch for trail markers where the route crosses forest roads

About a mile in, the trail passes a gate and enters Whitcomb Pasture. From June through October, cattle graze in the dewy fields nurtured by the dribbles of Whitcomb and Chipmunk Springs. Beyond the meadows, the trail begins a mild climb on the flanks of Pat Mullen Mountain.  

The half-mile vista spur has great views

For glimpses of classic White Mountains vistas, take the optional half-mile spur path that ascends 300 feet to the 7,612-foot summit. 

Rocky Mountain irises bloom in Whitcomb Pasture

Although the short climb is smothered in pines, oaks and  a few spectacular specimens of ancient Alligator junipers, views of the surrounding terrain can be seen through breaks in the foliage.

Enormous Alligator junipers shade the Pat Mullen Mtn spur

The massive form of Mount Baldy (11,403’), Blue Ridge Mountain (7,656’) and numerous cinder cone volcanoes jut above seemingly endless swaths of trees. 

Wild roses grow in moist areas along the trail

Although views are sparse on the summit, huge basalt shelves and jumbled boulders provide ample seating for a snack break or breather before taking on the final easy mile back to the trailhead.

Gate at Whitcomb pasture

A pine sapling sprouts near a common mullein plant

Snow lingers on 11,403 foot Mt. Baldy

LENGTH: 3.25-mile loop or 4.25 miles with the Pat Mullen Mountain spur.

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7200 – 7612 feet

GETTING THERE:

In Pinetop-Lakeside go south on State Route 260 (White Mountain Blvd.) to the traffic signal at Buck Springs Road at milepost 355.  Continue 0.6 mile and turn left onto to Sky Hi Road (Forest Road 182).  Follow Sky Hi Road 1.8 miles to the 632 trailhead on the right at the junction with Forest Road 185. All access roads are sedan friendly.

INFO: White Mountains Tracks Trail System

https://www.trackswhitemountains.org/trails/

DAVENPORT HILL

DAVENPORT HILL: Kaibab National Forest

Dogtown Lake & Bill Williams Mtn from Davenport Trl

Situated in the far southwest corner of the San Francisco Volcanic Field--a swath of impressive igneous features that arcs from the northern Arizona town of Williams to Flagstaff-- Davenport Hill is an anthill among giants.

Pines frame views of Kaibab National Forest

The 7805-foot mesa-like mound near Dogtown Lake 8 miles southeast of Williams barely registers a blip on hiker radar and recedes when compared to nearby lava domes and composite volcanoes like Bill Williams Mountain (8,800 feet), San Francisco Peaks (12,633 feet) and Kendrick Peak (10,418 feet).  Like its contemporary mounts, Davenport Hill sports a scenic trail that leads to its summit. For a less physically-demanding but rewarding summit trek, a hike up this little hill delivers the goods without the pain.

Summit of 7805-foot Davenport Hill

Lupines thrive in oak woodlands on Davenport Hill

Deeply wooded for its entire length, the trail twists up the hill’s north face through several vegetation zones, terrain types and vista orientations for a continually-changing sensory experience.   

Small-leaf pussytoes bloom May - August

The trek begins on the Ponderosa Trail, a 1-mile interpretive loop that passes through pine forests at the edge of green wetlands behind the Dogtown Lake dam. The moist swale that bisects this easy loop is a magnet for mountain bluebirds, robins, Steller’s jays, waterfowl, elk, bears and furry critters. In summer the moist drainage area fosters Rocky Mountain irises and dozens of other high-elevation wildflowers that add color to the forest floor. At the 0.3-mile point, turn right at the Davenport Hill trail sign where the route passes a gate before taking on the mountain in a leisurely mix of short, steep climbs and lingering inclines. Although the trail ascends 755 feet, flowing switchbacks take most of the sweat and toil out of the climb. The first mile is an effortless stroll through woodlands of Gambel oak, Ponderosa pines and sunny clearings. The uphill trudge begins where the trail crosses unsigned Forest Road 717 and moves onto the first of several edge-hugging switchbacks.

Wetlands on the Ponderosa Trail

Now comes the best part—breaks in the tree cover reveal views of the mountains and prairies of the Kaibab National Forest and the faint clank and hum of passing trains.

A hike around Dogtown Lake adds 1.8 miles to the hike

Look carefully in the direction of the mournful rattles and horns and you might spot a train snaking across the plains. On clear days, the bright white turbines of the Perrin Ranch Wind Energy Center can be seen dotting the plains 13 miles north of Williams.

White firs shade the upper portion of the trail

When operating at full capacity, the array of sixty-two, 262-foot-high turbines provide clean energy for more than 20,000 Arizona homes.  Farther up, the trail ducks into a sheer canyon shaded with moss-draped Douglas and white firs.  The slim path traverses the canyon walls landing hikers on the final uphill haul where picture-perfect views of Dogtown Lake and Bill Williams Mountain dominate the horizon.  Once past a second gate (with a stubborn barbed wire latch) the trail emerges on the summit ridge for a short, flat walk to the highpoint.

San Francisco Peaks seen from Davenport Hill summit

Robust stands of oak arch over the footpath that’s lined with lupine and globs of russet basalt that confirm the hill’s volcanic origins. 

Wind turbines visible in the distance

A massive rock pile made of the same reddish lava blobs (and artfully- arranged animal bones) found along the trail marks the summit proper.

Lupines color the forest floor

Beyond the super cairn, views of the San Francisco Peaks stand out on the northeast skyline. Given its position on the dubious side of hiker radar; chances are pretty good that you’ll have this quiet mountain top all to yourself.

Dense tree cover frames great views

A rustic gate marks the summit approach

Descend back to the Ponderosa Trail junction along the same path but take the opposite fork to complete the loop. If you’re still up for more, step out on the informal angler path that circles the lake for an additional, easy 1.8 miles of shoreline hiking around the high-elevation fishing hole that’s prized for its abundant trout, bass and catfish as well as for watercraft recreation.

Bill Williams Mountain looms over Kaibab NF woodlands 

View from the summit of Davenport Hill

LENGTH: 5.6 miles roundtrip (not including lake circumference hike)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 7050 - 7805 feet

GETTING THERE:

In Williams, go 3.8 miles south on Fourth Street (County Road 73/Perkinsville Road) to Forest Road 140. Turn east (left) onto FR 140 and go 2.8 miles to Forest Road 132, turn north (left) onto FR 132 and go 1.2 miles to the boat ramp at Dogtown Lake campground. From the boat ramp parking area, follow the Ponderosa Trail 0.2-mile to the Davenport Hill trail junction.

There’s no fee for day-use parking and there are restrooms and picnic tables nearby. Camping is by reservation only.

INFO: Kaibab National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/kaibab/recreation/hiking/recarea/?recid=11671&actid=50

ARIZONA TRAIL HAPPY JACK PASSAGE 28 GETS A REBOOT

ARIZONA TRAIL HAPPY JACK PASSAGE 28 GETS A REBOOT

Shawn Redfield at a super gate on AZT Passage 28

At a recent Arizona Trail Association (ATA) volunteer vacation work event on the Happy Jack segment of the trail on the Mogollon Rim, a reoccurring mantra drove the mission. “The trail doesn’t build itself.” Although the goal of constructing the 800-mile Arizona National Scenic Trail that runs from Mexico to Utah has been achieved, the route will never really be “finished”. Now, efforts have shifted from bridging the holes in the contiguous route to improving and maintaining trail conditions and enhancing user experience.

AZT steward Tasha Pontifex works on reroute of AZT

“When the Arizona Trail was originally planned, early trail advocates and land management agencies identified existing trails that could be designated as the Arizona Trail,” said Matt Nelson, Executive Director of the Arizona Trail Association.

Wendy Lotze demonstrates tool safety protocols

AZT volunteers hike to the construction site

“Connecting the gaps between existing trails was done by utilizing existing dirt roads. Then, the gaps that still existed necessitated trail construction,” Nelson explained. “The approximately 20 miles on the Coconino National Forest south of Mormon Lake (Happy Jack Passage #28) is a prime example. Since the forest contains hundreds of miles of dirt roads, it was easier to use existing roadways and build trail where there wasn’t already a “path.” However, the National Scenic Trail Act requires National Scenic Trails be non-motorized pathways, and a “desired condition” is to minimize motorized interface between non-motorized trail users and motorists. The Happy Jack Passage has consistently been commented on as the least desirable for AZT users, and receives no day use hikers, runners or mountain bikers because it’s not a pleasant trail experience.”

The new and improved trail takes shape

Project leads: Shawn, Wendy (AZT)  & Brady Vandragt (FS)

Thru-hikers (trekkers who hike the entire trail) have long maligned the 29.4-mile passage as “a boring road hike” (or as Nelson described it; “a numb experience”) and scratched it off as a means-to-an-end. Even with its scenic pine woodlands and many stock tanks that serve as water sources and wildlife magnets, the passage has wallowed in its “middle child” status. The Happy Jack Singletrack Project seeks to bring the woodsy segment on the Mogollon Rim up to par. The three-year project, now in its second season, will result in a major reboot.

“The ATA has long desired a better alignment for this section, acknowledging that forest roads—badly eroded ones at that—are not ideal for a National Scenic Trail,” said Shawn Redfield, Trail Director, Arizona Trail Association.  “The new alignment was devised by U.S. Forest Service staff, based on topography, water sources and scenic features, and avoiding endangered species habitat.”

Volunteers rallied during a trail-building event held from May 26 – 30, 2019, one of several efforts that will augment the heavy-lifting done by American Conservation Corps workers and hired heavy equipment.

AZT Volunteer Coordinator Wendy Lotze

Volunteer Vacation base camp on the Mogollon Rim

“The volunteer vacation is part of a much larger, 3-year project to reroute the AZT off of 18 miles of old forest roads and on to newly-built singletrack trail,” Redfield said.

“The project is funded by a Recreation Trails Project grant from Arizona State Parks, Forest Service contributions, significant donations from REI, and funds from the ATA.  

Wendy Lotze guides a volunteer trail builder

American Conservation Experience youth corps from Flagstaff is doing a lot of work with hand crews and machines. ATA will hire additional machine work later this year.

In addition to the 18 miles of new trail, the project includes several kiosks at trailheads, 15 AZT super gates, 5 bike rollovers, a horse hitching rail, and numerous signs and markers placed along the new route.”

Volunteers are always needed for construction and maintenance projects and no special skills are required.

AZT workers plan the new route

“Can we say it again? The trail doesn’t build itself,” said Wendy Lotze, Arizona Trail Volunteer Coordinator and Happy Jack project lead at the May event.  During her on-site training demonstrations, Lotze explained safety protocols and proper use of tools while repeating the project goals and acknowledging that ongoing volunteer contributions are crucial to the trail’s future. “Our priorities are safety, fun and productivity. In that order. It’s more important that you stay safe and enjoy your experience here rather than burn out trying to build a lot of trail,” she said to project participants. “We want you to come back.” Even those who are not able or willing to get their hands dirty can still help out.

Orange flags denote the reroute location

“If swinging a pick isn’t possible for an interested volunteer, there are numerous other opportunities to help. We always need help with preparing lunches and shuttling volunteers. The ATA is continually raising funds to offset our share of the considerable project costs, so if you can’t make it into the field and still want to support the Happy Jack Singletrack Project, consider writing a check”, said Matt Nelson.

Volunteers got some nice swag

The reroute will improve user experience

Volunteers prepare to hike out to the construction site

So far, several miles of the reroute have been completed and updated maps are posted on the AZT website. No longer a soul-deadening trudge, the new route is now located away from roads. “The improvement in the scenic nature of the trail and the user-experience is dramatic,” Redfield said.  Day hikers will now find that the passage is an approachable way to step out into the forest without having to dodge motorized traffic.

“The best thing that could happen to this trail is to get a bunch of [foot] traffic over it as soon as possible to pack it down and harden the surface. If this thru-hiker season and social media “buzz” is any indication, getting traffic over the new trail is not going to be an issue,” Redfield added.

ARIZONA TRAIL PASSAGE 28:

LENGTH: 29.4 miles

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 6733 – 7618 feet

EXPLORE, VOLUNTEER, DONATE:

https://aztrail.org/explore/passages/passage-28-happy-jack/

BAKER BUTTE

BAKER BUTTE

Lilacs frame Baker Butte fire tower on the Mogollon Rim

A hike up to Baker Butte culminates at an idyllic, pine-shaded pinnacle. Swarms of hummingbirds whip through lilac-scented air and masses of ladybugs cling to trees, shrubs and knee-high wildflowers.

Fire lookout Shirley Payne and her horse Rameses.

Nearby, a horse chomps hay in a makeshift corral while a friendly black Labrador retriever noses a tennis ball. Perched on a knoll at the edge of the Mogollon Rim, the mood surrounding the Baker Butte fire tower is as calm and pastoral as a romantic passage in a Victorian novel.

Pine thermopsis (golden pea) bloom April - July

But this enviable life removed from city heat, traffic and noise belies a very serious purpose.

“Are you coming up?” The voice of fire lookout Shirley Payne broke the silence as she called down to me and my hiking partner from the catwalk of the 30-foot-high tower. “Oh, yeah,” was my no-brainer answer.  Payne, who has worked in the tower for 23 years, welcomed us with a plate of fresh-baked poppy seed muffins.

Payne's dog Jeffrey takes a break near the corral.

The tower is located near the western edge of Rim Road (Forest Road 300)--a 51-mile dirt route that runs between State Route 87 south of Clints Well to State Route 260 near Forest Lakes. Rim Road makes for an iconic scenic drive for anybody with a high-clearance vehicle and the fortitude to endure some queasy, edge-hugging sections. Of the many Coconino National Forest fire lookout towers that dot the Rim, Baker Butte is one of the easiest to reach on foot. For a moderate 3-miler, park at Baker Lake (usually not more than a soggy bog) at the junction of FR 300 and SR 87 and hike 1.2 miles on FR 300 to Forest Road 300B (the road to the lookout) where there’s a parking area for the General Crook Trail, then continue 0.4-mile uphill to the summit. The summit road passes through archways of Gambel oak trees, pines and Douglas firs. Fringed with ferns, raspberry brambles and colorful spreads of Canada violets, Pine thermopsis, sandwort and wild strawberries, the road twists uphill in long loops landing at the base of the fire tower.

Views from tower catwalk stretch from Flagstaff to Tucson

The tower, which earned a spot on the National Historic Lookout Register in 2006, wears its heritage well. Constructed with a not-so-subtle blend of original, repurposed and new building materials, the practical yet homey loft is softened by Payne’s collection of quilts, plants and mementos.  Neatly arranged instruments, radios, binoculars and maps speak to the intense, sometimes harrowing, work of fire spotting and coordination of incident response teams—the daily grind of a fire lookout.

Thick tree cover on the summit road hike.

The long-gone original tower cabin that was built in 1921 was replaced in 1937 with the present 12’ x 12’ model that’s perched on a metal skeleton with wooden stairs. The catwalk was added in 2009 and various upgrades to walls and windows surround a floor covered in speckled, cracked linoleum that smacks of mid-century utilitarianism.

Copies of Payne’s book, Baker Butte Journal 2010, sit near the guest register. Well worth its $20 sale price, the photo-rich volume presents a slice-of-life account of a season in the tower. It's packed with play-by-play descriptions of wildfire response, turbulent mountain weather, recipes and the misadventures of “cidiots” (visitors from cities with irresponsible forest habits) who litter, cause damage, raise hell and sometimes need rescuing.  A stroll around the catwalk reveals see-forever vistas. On most days, the peaks of Flagstaff, Williams and the White Mountains can be seen with the naked eye standing over seas of Ponderosa pines. On the best days, Picacho Peak and Mount Lemmon in Tucson show their silhouettes 200 miles to the south. 

Jeffrey is always ready for a game of fetch

Payne offers fresh-baked muffins to tower visitors.

Below the tower, a tiny cabin serves as Payne’s home for six months (usually May – October) each year. Draped in lilac bushes that were planted in the 1980s, the ad hoc abode has been expanded, adapted and upgraded over decades of use.

Hummingbirds gather at feeders placed around the tower

Tools of a fire lookout's trade.

The sunny kitchen was salvaged from a Depression Era Civilian Conservation Corps camp at Mormon Lake and repurposed into a compact, fully-equipped work space (with hot and cold running water to boot) where Payne cooks up her culinary specialties like the yummy muffins she serves visitors.  Some of her recipes use wildflowers and berries harvested from the forest.

Payne's book describes her experiences working in the tower

Outside, an array of hummingbird feeders attract several species including the Broad-tailed, Rufous and Magnificent. During summer, flocks of the glinting little birds can drain a feeder in just hours, which keeps Payne busy with refill runs up to three times a day. In addition to the elk, chipmunks, turkeys, western tanagers and deer that hang out around the tower, Payne keeps two special four-legged helpers at her mountain top work environment. Rameses, a 21-year-old Missouri Fox Trotter--a gaited breed (horses with a sure-footed, rhythmic stride) who loves mint candy treats, and Jeffrey, a friendly  3-year-old black lab with a fetch fetish and boundless energy provide companionship and assistance. 

Raspberry brambles produce fruit in late summer

During fire season, the Baker Butte tower is open to the public between 8:00 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. when Payne is on duty and closed for lunch between noon and 1 p.m.

The cabin kitchen was salvaged from a CCC camp

Canada violets bloom April - September

As Arizona heads into another fire season, forest visitors should respect fire restrictions and safety protocols. The last thing any fire lookout wants to see is a plume of smoke drifting skyward from a human-caused blaze.  When visiting a fire tower, please observe proper etiquette.

• Respect visiting hours. Do not attempt to enter a tower when no lookout is present.

• Wait to be invited. Lookouts may not allow visitors when monitoring an active fire incident.

FR 300B begins across from a General Crook trailhead

• Lighten up. Leave bulky packs and trekking poles behind. Tower stairs are narrow and space is tight inside.

• Ask permission before taking photos or approaching companion animals.

• Listen up. Follow the lookout’s instructions and don’t touch instruments. 

• Learn something. Ask questions. Most lookouts are veritable founts of knowledge about the forests they watch over.

Begin at Baker Lake (bog) for a 3-mile hike to the tower.

LENGTH:  3 miles roundtrip from Baker Lake or 0.8 mile roundtrip from the General Crook trailhead.

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION:  7430 - 8074 feet from Baker Lake or 7866 – 8074 from General Crook trailhead.

GETTING THERE:

From the State Route 87/260 junction in Payson, go 28 miles north on SR 87 to Forest Road 300 (Rim Road) located just past milepost 281.

Option 1: Park in the dirt turnouts on Rim Road near Baker Lake just a few yards in from SR 87.

Option 2: Follow FR 300 (make a sharp left at a Y junction at  0.1-mile)  1.2 miles to the Baker Butte Summit Road (FR 300B). There’s parking directly across from the summit road in the General Crook trailhead. Forest Road 300 is bumpy dirt but passable by passenger cars.

INFO:

http://nhlr.org/lookouts/us/az/baker-butte-lookout/

Fire Management Coconino National Forest

https://www.fs.usda.gov/main/coconino/fire

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