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Monday, December 11, 2023

Elmore Wash

ELMORE WASH

Wickiup Mesa Trail System

Elmore Wash trail in Coconino National Forest

Access to Arizona wilderness areas is a mixed bag of easy walk-ins from paved suburban roads. (Munds Mountain Wilderness in Sedona) to miles of driving on white knuckle two tracks in the middle of nowhere (Bear Wallow Wilderness near Hannagan Meadow). There’s also a middle ground. 

Elmore Wash trail is well signed

The Wickiup Mesa Trail System located in the adjacent communities of Rimrock, McGuireville and Montezuma Lake offers a hikeable link between Interstate 17 and two of Central Arizona’s most popular wilderness destinations. 
Trailhead on Forest Road 618

The 6.5-mile, non-motorized trail system in Coconino National Forest east of Sedona opened in 2018 through a partnership with the forest service, Yavapai County and the Beaver Creek Trails Coalition.  Situated on 700 acres of thorny grasslands and juniper woodlands the system provides seamless access to the Wet Beaver and West Clear Creek Wilderness areas.
Cedar Knoll trail grasslands

 

The singletrack trail system is anchored by the 2-mile Sunset Loop. Tendril spurs connect to community access points, OHV trails, a scenic ledge overlooking the Montezuma Well heritage site and the Elmore Wash trail which makes a straight shot toward the wilderness.

Sunset Loop anchors Wickiup Mesa Trails

Trailheads in the Rimrock community and along Forest Road 618 make it easy to plan out-and-back day hikes or longer trips by connecting with the Bell, Walker Basin or West Clear Creek trails.  From the Forestglen trailhead at the south end of the Rimrock community, the hike begins on the Cedar Knoll trail.  This easy-rated 0.6-mile segment twists through sunny pastures dotted with yucca and junipers. 

Mesquite trees clutter around Elmore Wash trail

Big views of the Munds Mountain Wilderness and Sedona’s red rocks front barely-there glimpses of the San Francisco Peaks to the north. 
Forestglen trailhead in Rimrock

At the Sunset Loop junction, the route veers east (go right) taking on a slightly more rugged character as it gradually leaves the open terrain behind and ascends between tree-covered knolls. 
Looking west on Elmore Wash trail

The 0.8-mile leg ends at the Elmore Wash trail junction where wilderness mountains hover over the gorge of Walker Basin.  Although it’s rated moderate in difficulty, the Elmore Wash trail delivers a decent workout with a rollercoaster series of ups-and-downs. 
Sign with historical info at the trailhead

The trail alternates between dips and crosses of the eponymous wash and highpoint vistas of the Bradshaw Mountains to the west. 
View of Bradshaw Mountains from Elmore Wash

The hike in an immersive experience into the Middle Verde Watershed that’s part of a 4.2-million-acre ecosystem that includes roughly 500 miles of perennial streams that feed into the Verde River which provides a substantial amount of the surface water delivered to the Metro Phoenix area.
Snow-capped peaks seen from Cedar Knoll

As the trail nears its terminus at Forest Road 618, tree cover increases with a dusting of pinyon pine joining the mix of mesquite, scrub oak and sharp-spined Crucifixion-thorn.  At the 3.3-mile point, a kiosk with map and historical information marks the border of the Wickiup Mesa Trail System.  Across the road, though, the hike may be extended with a mile-long walk on Forest Road 9201C that leads to the Walker Basin Trail, a difficult 8-mile primitive route into the drainages between Wet Beaver Creek and West Clear Creek. For an easier add on, the 11-mile Bell Trail, which leads to swimming holes and amazing geology, begins 3 miles north on FR 618.  About 4.5 south of the FR9201C turnoff for Walker Basin, the West Clear Creek Trail may be accessed by following signs to the Bullpen Ranch trailhead.

Junctions feature map signs

Old trough on Elmore Wash trail

LENGTH: 6.6 miles roundtrip (out-and-back hike)

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 3,631 – 3,853 feet (731 feet of accumulated elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

FORESTGLEN TRAILHEAD:

From Interstate 17 north of Camp Verde, take the McGuireville exit 293 and veer east (right) onto Beaver Creek Road (County Road 77). Continue 1.8 miles and veer right onto Montezuma Ave. Go 1.3 miles to Cliffside Trail, turn left and follow the winding road 0.9 mile to Geronimo Road, turn right and drive 0.4 mile to Forestglen Road. Turn right and continue 0.3 mile to the trailhead at the intersection of Redrock Road. Roads are paved.

FOREST ROAD 618 TRAILHEAD:

From Interstate 17 north of Camp Verde, take the Sedona-Oak Creek exit 298 for State Route 179.  Turn east (right) at the bottom of the ramp and continue 4.5 miles on Forest Road 618 to the Walker Basin TH sign and the trailhead on the right.  There is limited parking along the road and on adjacent FR 9201C. Roads are maintained dirt and gravel.

There are no fees or facilities at either trailhead.

 


Tuesday, December 5, 2023

Maricopa Trail to Camp Creek Falls

MARICOPA TRAIL SEGMENT 22

BARTLETT DAM ROAD to CAMP CREEK FALLS

Camp Creek in Tonto National Forest

Over its 315+-mile course, the Maricopa Trail unfurls its tendrils to link county regional parks, suburbs, urban public spaces, canals, historic paths, and remote stretches of national forest.  To hike the full loop is tantamount to a walking tour of the Valley’s multi-faceted landscape. 

Mountain vistas on the Maricopa Trail

The epic non-motorized route that circles the Valley broke ground in 2007 in the Spur Cross Ranch Conservation Area, and the main loop was completed in 2018. 
Hikers in the Camp Creek Falls grotto

The trail continues to improve, evolve, build connectivity, and add length as it adapts to accommodate growing community interest and enthusiastic hiker, biker, and equestrian users.  Built to encourage hikers of every ilk to get outdoors, the route’s many trailheads and neighborhood access points make it simple to hop on and off the trail from anywhere in the Valley, with two notable exceptions: the Spur Cross to Bronco and Bronco to Granite Mountain segments. 
Segment 22 of the MT is wide and well signed

Where the northernmost segments of the trail pass through Tonto National Forest, there’s an average of 13 miles between drive up trailheads. And, for seasoned, well-prepared trail users, that’s where the best stuff resides.  Segment 22 which runs for 16-miles from the north border of Scottsdale’s McDowell Sonoran Preserve to the Bronco trailhead in Tonto National Forest was among the last passages to be completed. 
The trail heads downhill on brushy foothills

Rugged terrain, scoured washes, nasty back roads and stubborn rock contributed the difficulty encountered by trail construction crews. Then, in September and October 2020, the 15,000+-acre Sears Fire took a toll on several miles of the segment located roughly 20 miles northeast of Cave Creek.  
Hazy Mt. Ord (center horizon) viewed from the trail

Within months, work crews restored the damaged trail, fixing drainages and stabilizing eroded slopes.  While the moderately difficult entire 12.6-mile Segment 22 hike can sound intimidating for some, there’s an option for an out-and-back day hike that includes a visit to one of the Valley’s most beloved natural wonders.
Morning vista on the Maricopa Trail

Beginning along Bartlett Dam Road, Segment 22 heads north through a shadeless expanse of catclaw and saguaros.  The path briefly traces a powerline, but then veers east into wash-riddled backcountry with unobstructed mountain views.  The rocky domes of Kentuck Mountain (5,013 feet), Maverick Butte (4,870 feet), Humboldt Mountain (5, 204 feet)and St, Clair Mountain (3,252 feet) populate foreground with Mount Ord (7,128 feet) and the cloud bumping Mazatzal Range standing high over the Verde River Basin in the distance. 

The Maricopa Trail crosses sandy Blue Wash

The trail twists downhill, clinging to foothills and stony edges landing hikers at the sandy corridor of Blue Wash at the 3.4-mile point. 
Where the MT crosses Bartlett Dam Road

From a barbed wire and wood gate, an American flag planted on a prominent knoll with a Fresco Mines claim sign across the wash marks the beginning of a side trip to Camp Creek Falls. 
Interesting rock formations throughout the hike

The side trip veers left from the Maricopa Trail and follows the glassy slip of Camp Creek to a box canyon where a perennial stream of water spills about 20 feet over solid rock into a shallow plunge pool.  Desert waterfalls are rare enough, but this one in its tiny grotto fringed by cottonwoods, willows and reeds is a real gem.
Camp Creek leads to a desert waterfall

 
Flag (center) on knoll marks the falls side trip

The spring-fed fount is a critical water source for the deer, javelina and myriad little critters that live in the surrounding desert and makes for a scenic stop over for both long-distance treks and short day hikes on the Maricopa Trail.
The spring-fed waters of Camp Creek Falls

SUPPORT THE TRAIL:


If this wild and wonderful segment of the Maricopa Trail has inspired you, please consider supporting the effort by attending the Prickly Pedal Bike Race, the trail’s main fund-raising event.

Prickly Pedal on the Maricopa Trail will run 36 miles from Cave Creek to Lake Pleasant in Peoria.

The annual event is produced by Aravaipa Rides to benefit the Maricopa Trail + Park Foundation which funds trail building and maintenance projects.

Heads up that trail closures will be in effect along the racecourse.

RACE: 8:30 (pre-registration required)

EXPO & AFTER PARTY: 11 a.m. – 3 p.m.

Public is invited to enjoy the finish line party with beer garden, exhibitors, music, and fun.

https://pricklypedal.com/

 

LENGTH: 7 miles round trip, out-and back to the falls

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 2,833 – 3,303 feet (793 feet of elevation change)

GETTING THERE:

SOUTH TRAILHEAD

BARTLETT DAM ROAD-WILDCAT HILL OHV PARKING:

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Pima/Princess Drive exit 36 and go 13 miles north on Pima and turn right on Cave Creek Road.  Continue 4.1 miles to Bartlett Dam Road, turn right and go 0.4-mile to a dirt road on the right 0.1-mile past the Tonto National Forest ranger station.  Turn right and park along the dirt turn outs. Follow the Maricopa Trail signs to cross Bartlett Dam Road and continue north.

TONTO NATIONAL FOREST CAVE CREEK RANGER STATION:

40202 N. Cave Creek Road, Scottsdale.

May be closed on weekends and holidays.

Use the 0.2-mile connector that starts at the big Maricopa Trail kiosk.

INFO & MAPS:

https://www.maricopacountyparks.net/park-locator/maricopa-trail/

 

Monday, November 27, 2023

Cloudburst-Cone Mountain Loop

CLOUDBURST-CONE MOUNTAIN LOOP

Storm view from the Cloudburst trail

IMPORTANT NOTE: Please stay off wet trails to avoid damaging them. These photos were taken before the storms hit --on dry trails. 

 Funny thing about mountains; they’re rain makers.  The phenomenon isn’t unusual or magic, it’s something called orographic precipitation which is basically rain produced when warm moist air rises and cools over mountain ranges.

Granite boulders on the Cone Mountain trail

The process is fascinating to watch, it rolls out as if trapped in a sort of real-time time-lapse. Clouds rapidly build over peaks to the break point when they drop their payloads.
Granite sculpture on the Hackamore trail

This amazing weather event is easily observed in the mountain ranges that circle the Valley where the massif-borne rain flows down foothills into ephemeral streams and washes in gentle sheets or roiling deluges.  
Storm brewing over the Cloudburst trail

Higher elevations around the Valley like in North Scottsdale and Cave Creek where mountains reach to a cloud-summoning 4,000+feet get the lion’s share of water.
Preserve trails are well marked and maintained

 
Phoenix gets the dregs.  While Phoenix is situated at around 1,100 feet, north Valley locations like Scottsdale’s McDowell Sonoran Preserve rise to over 2,500 feet, and that makes all the difference in terms of taking the edge off city heat islands and soaking up residual mountain rain.  
Brown's Mountain viewed from Upper Ranch trail

The extra height also accounts for the occasional coating of winter snow that frosts saguaros in picture postcard splendor.  The fascinating workings of elevation and mountains on the desert landscape beg to be ogled, and the Cloudburst Trail feels like a purpose-built platform for the mission.

The aptly named hiking trail in the McDowell Sonoran Preserve gives front-row-style access to the spectacle of rain-making mountains in action. 

Early morning sun on Upper Ranch trail

The 0.9-mile trail coils along the base of 3,061-foot Cone Mountain with flat topped Brown’s Mountain standing at 3,253 feet high to the east.  The twisting singletrack in the preserve’s north region overlooks a gorgeous expanse of desert that abuts the hilly terrain of Tonto National Forest.

Stunning skyscape on the Cloudburst trail

 

There are numerous ways to access the route but using it as leg in a loop around Cone Mountain adds panoramic vistas and interesting geology to the mix.

Maps available online and at the trailhead show multiple ways to weave the Cloudburst trail into a day hike. 

Unobstructed views on the Cloudburst trail

One option is to create a loop hike using Upper Ranch, Cone Mountain, Hawksnest, and West Express trails for a moderate 5.3-mile trek.  Each leg of the route works a different facet of the preserve’s many characters.  The West Express and Hackamore trails bump up against bizarre granite formations and cross paths with powerlines that oddly mimic wiry tendrils of ocotillo cactus.
Loop hike circles Cone Mountain

The Upper Ranch and Cone Mountain trails showcase the preserve’s two distinct peaks and views of iconic Pinnacle Peak and western ranges. 
Looking west from Cone Mountain trail

But, on days when rain is in the forecast, it’s Cloudburst that outdoes itself.  Traversing a shelf-like edge hanging over acres of saguaros, the trail has unobstructed views of churning clouds rising among layers of misted ridges and peaks.
Powerlines flank the West Express trail

The route is easy to pick out or customize using maps available online or at the trailhead. Here’s one option. From the Brown’s Ranch trailhead, begins with a short walk on Brown’s Ranch Road to the Upper Ranch Trail.  Follow Upper Ranch 1.2 miles to emergency marker UR5 and turn left at the Cone Mountain connector.
 

Gathering storm on Upper Ranch trail

Hike 0.2-mile, turn right onto Cloudburst at emergency marker CN3. Follow Cloudburst to emergency marker HW33 and continue 0.1-mile to West Express at emergency marker HW35. Follow West Express 0.4-mile to emergency marker WE17 and turn onto Hackamore. Follow Hackamore to the Cone Mountain junction at CN5, hike back to Upper Ranch and backtrack to the trailhead.

CHEAT SHEET emergency marker breadcrumbs: TRAILHEAD, UR1, UR2, UR3, UR4, UR5, CN3, HW33, HW35, WE17, HT3, CN5, UR4, UR3, UR1, TRAILHEAD.

REMINDER: Please stay off wet trails.

LENGTH: 5.3 miles

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 2,508 – 2,713 feet

GETTING THERE:

Brown’s Ranch Trailhead

30301 N. Alma School Pkwy., Scottsdale.

From Loop 101 in Scottsdale, take the Pima/Princess exit 36 and go 6.5 miles north on Pima to Dynamite Road.  Turn right and continue 2.7 miles to Alma School Pkwy., turn left and drive 1 mile to the trailhead. The preserve is open sunrise to sunset daily. There are restrooms at the trailhead.

INFO:
McDowell Sonoran Preserve

https://www.scottsdaleaz.gov/preserve


Tuesday, November 14, 2023

Black Canyon Trail: Biscuit Flat Segment

BLACK CANYON NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL:

BISCUIT FLAT SEGMENT

Wild burros on Biscuit Flat

Wild burros make lots of tracks--and lots of little burros.  That’s a concern for hikers and land managers because overpopulation can lead to problems like overgrazing, negative impacts on native wildlife, and public safety issues around roadways. 

New River Mesa viewed from Biscuit Flat

With few natural predators and a law that protects them from human hunters, the sturdy African imports that are the descendants of escaped or released pack beasts used by the military, ranchers, Spanish explorers, and miners dating back to the 1500s, the herds can become hordes.

The route follows single and double track paths

The free-roaming, prolific breeders adapted to the Sonoran Desert and other areas in the Western states. Herds quickly grew to the point where they exceed the land’s capacity to support them.  The 1971 Wild-Free Roaming Horses and Burros Act states that the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and the U.S. Forest Service are responsible for managing and protecting herds and their rangelands as “living symbols of the historic and pioneer spirit of the West.”  

Wild burros cross the Black Canyon NRT

To thin the herds and maintain their health here in Arizona, the BLM uses fertility control and vaccine programs along with periodic “gathers” where burros are helicoptered out of congested public lands and either put up for adoption or transferred to Midwest off-range private pastures where they are taken care of for the rest of their lives.
Biscuit Flat is surrounded by mountains

Cholla line the Black Canyon NRT

The four-legged “spirits of the West” can be observed wandering in several Arizona ranges including the Lake Pleasant Herd Management Area, a 103,000-acre space located 25 miles northwest of Phoenix.  The Biscuit Flat segment of the Black Canyon National Recreation Trail provides non-motorized access into the heart of burro country.

The sandy floodplain of New River

 

Like the burros that average 400 pounds and 48-inches high, the roughly 100-mile-long historic trail is very much a spirit of Western heritage.

A cactus wren alights on a BCT sign post

 

It runs from Carefree Highway in Phoenix to the Town of Mayer and has recently been extended into the Verde Valley with new construction.  Following a mashup of ancient travel corridors, wagon roads and livestock tracks that pre-date Interstate 17, the route traverses mountain passes, valleys, sprawling rangelands, defunct mining operations and heritage sites that date back thousands of years.  The 5.9-mile Biscuit Flat segment is, well--flat. 

Signs guide hikers through the New River channel

It’s the first stretch of the route that begins at Carefree Highway and makes a straight shot north to the Emery Henderson trailhead on New River Road just 3 miles west of Interstate 17.
Crossing the New River channel

 
The utterly pancake-level expanse registers like a mood board for a Martian landscape--that is if Mars had cactus, creosote and an ephemeral river running through it.  Resembling images sent back from Mars landers, the place is a massive basin surround by volcanic mountain ranges.
Gavilan Peak (2,980 feet) on near horizon

 

The thorny plain is dressed in scuffed shades of green muddled with dusty earth and course, dried forbs. Like the Native inhabitants and pioneers that wandered through, this place cut its teeth on surviving in the unforgiving spillway of a desert river.

Green sign posts mark the trail

 
Emery Henderson trailhead on New River Road

Without obvious lures, the vultures come anyway. Riding up drafts, the carrion-eating scavengers make lazy loops and investigative swoops often enough to suggest, something below is dead.  Maybe a javelina, rabbit or coyote. 

An uncommon white burro on Biscuit Flat

What’s alive are the burros, expanding suburbs, a widening interstate, shooting range, prison complex, fairways, a municipal transfer station and the massive semiconductor manufacturing plant rising from desert that surrounds the dusty trail and its relics of the past.
Hikers must watch for toppled signs

Beginning at the north end of the segment at the Emery Henderson trailhead, the path heads south on a mix of singletrack, two-track and dirt roads.  The trail is signed throughout but is crisscrossed with trampled paths made by the burros and fading dirt roads that can be confusing. 

Cave Creek Mountains viewed from Biscuit Flat

Bradshaw Mountains on the north horizon

Hikers must take care at intersections to spot the next sign to stay on track. (Some signs were down at this writing but did not present a navigation problem).  At about the 2-mile point, the trail enters the sandy floodplain of New River and makes a rocky crossing through a tamarisk-choaked channel.
Mountain vistas on Biscuit Flat

 
Old trough on Biscuit Flat

Signs anchored by rock piles guide the way through the weedy waterway.  On the south bank, the trail heads up an embankment, passes a gate and begins a shade less walk through open desert.  The pop-pop of pistol fire from the nearby Arizona Game & Fish Department-managed Ben Avery Shooting Facility grows louder where the trail briefly shares space with the Valley-circling Maricopa Trail and crosses Deadman Wash.  The south trailhead is little more than a dirt pullout and gate along busy Carefree Highway. 
Saguaros on Biscuit Flat

If you parked a shuttle vehicle here, be sure to close the gate behind you to keep the legacy burros from wandering into 21st-Century traffic.

LENGTH: 5.9 miles one-way

RATING: easy

ELEVATION: 1,598 – 1,878 feet

GETTING THERE:

NORTH: Emery Henderson Trailhead: From Interstate 17 in north Phoenix, take the New River Road exit 232 and go 3.1 miles west to the trailhead on the right. The large parking area has space for trailers. There’s a restroom, but it was out of order at this writing.

SOUTH: Bob Bentley Trailhead: From Interstate 17 in north Phoenix, take the State Route 74 (Carefree Highway) exit 223 and go 1.8 miles west to the trailhead on the right. No facilities.

INFO & MAPS: Black Canyon Trail Coalition

https://bctaz.org/

WILD BURRO INFO

https://www.blm.gov/whb

https://www.blm.gov/programs/wild-horse-and-burro/herd-management/herd-management-areas/arizona/lake-pleasant

WILD BURRO ADOPTIONS

https://aci.az.gov/capabilities/wild-horse-burro-training-and-adoption/