Hot Loop Trail

HOT LOOP TRAIL

Woods Canyon viewed from Hot Loop Trail

In the wrong hands, a hike like the Hot Loop could go bad.  Forest Service signs on the trail warn of extreme conditions, sketchy sections and the fact that the “loop” involves connecting with Jack's Canyon Trail for a rugged 22-mile trek. 

Bell Rock, Bear Mtn and Courthouse Butte

While the full trip is clearly not for everybody, there are less treacherous yet still challenging options to sample some of the best parts of the trail.

Cypress woodlands on Hot Loop Trail

The 12.6-mile Hot Loop trail in Coconino National Forest near the Village of Oak Creek, has two main access points, the Jack's Canyon trailhead—as described here, and the Woods Canyon Trailhead near the Coconino National Forest visitor center along State Route 179.

Horse Mesa seen from Hot Loop Trail

Neither trailhead hints at the precarious nature of what lies ahead. Rough terrain, little shade, steep drop-offs and the potential for springtime floods could put a fatal kink in trail user plans.

The less-crowded Jack's Canyon trailhead is the preferred launch site for day hikers. The trail starts at the west end of the parking area near a corral.  The first half mile is an easy stroll among mesquite and cactus skimming bucolic ranch properties that bump up against the forest boundary.

Scrubby landscape above Woods Canyon

The hike’s transportive quality soon kicks in as the terrain moves from flat fields to hilly cypress-and-yucca foothills giving up good views of iconic rock formations Courthouse Butte and Bell Rock.

Overlooking Village of Oak Creek

 Narrow and rocky, the singletrack path initially takes it time moving up the lower slopes of Horse Mesa.  Pinon pines and shaggy-bark cypress trees throw bits of shade on the track as it reveals bigger and better vistas around every turn.  At around the 1-mile point, the trail makes a pronounced northeast bend, passes a gate (close it behind you) and then descends slightly onto slick rock ledges above the chasm of Woods Canyon.  Cupped in the folds of the mesa the trail dip is a short-lived respite before the trail takes on a ferocious mile-long climb.  Some loose rock and edgy traverses can be unnerving, but well-equipped hikers should have little trouble picking their way up the 1000+-foot ascent. 

Edgy ascent of Horse Mesa

Trail users should be prepared.

The huffing and puffing ends at the lip of the scrubby mesa and enters the Munds Mountain Wilderness area.  A short walk reveals panoramic views of the Pine Valley community, Sedona’s red rock formations, the deep cut of Woods Canyon and Dry Beaver Creek and the distant silhouettes of Capitol Butte and Bear Mountain. 

Jack's Canyon trailhead

For the casual day hiker, the rim makes for a good turnaround point for a satisfying 3-miler.

LENGTH: 6 miles round trip to top of the mesa as described here.

RATING: difficult

ELEVATION: 4,234 – 5,200 feet

GETTING THERE:

Jack's Canyon Trailhead:

From Interstate 17 north of Camp Verde, take the Sedona/Oak Creek exit 298 and continue 6.5 miles on State Route 179 to the Jack’s Canyon Road/Verde Valley School Road traffic circle. Veer right and continue 2 miles on Jack’s Canyon Road to the trailhead on the right. Roads are paved up to the trailhead. There are no fees or facilities at this trailhead.

Woods Canyon Trailhead (alternate access):

From Phoenix, travel north on I17 to exit 298 for SR179, Sedona-Oak Creek, go left (west) and continue 8.5 miles to the turn off for the Red Rock Ranger District Station on the right.  Trailhead is located within the ranger station complex in the south (lower) lot where a small metal sign indicates the start point.

INFO:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recreation/recarea/?recid=54992&actid=50

Buckskin Hills

BUCKSKIN HILLS

Mountain vistas from FR 9C

What’s most remarkable about Arizona’s vast in-between spaces is their sneaky way of delighting.  Take for example, the windy rangeland that lies between the Fossil Springs and West Clear Creek Wilderness Areas in Yavapai County. 

A water hole in the Buckskin Hills

From State Route 260, the scenic byway that runs between the two magnetic recreational destinations, the shrubby hills belie pockets of beauty seen only by those willing to take a chance on one of the dozens of nondescript dirt roads that meander through them.

Snow coats FR9C on March 16, 2025

 

Located 20 miles east of Camp Verde on the Coconino National Forest, the Buckskin Hills usually don’t make the bucket lists of outdoor enthusiasts. 

The view from above Fossil Springs Wilderness

The low-slung ridges that just barely scrape 6,000 feet at their highest point are cluttered with junipers, cactuses and dozens of wildlife water holes.  Forest Road 9C, which swerves off SR 260, serves as an introductory path for exploring the area that hikers may approach with low expectations.

 Water hole below the Buckskin Hills

Brilliant in its ordinariness, the simple road hike has a simmering energy that builds in a slow, steady cadence.

From the dirt turnouts that serve as a trailhead, the waters of Divide Tank reflect mountain peaks, teasing at what lies ahead. 

Divide Tank at the start of the hike

Forest Road 9C is unsigned for most of its length, tucking into a visually underwhelming swath of rangeland.  But only for  a while.  Soon, the mangled, boulder-lined route encounters rustic tangles of corrals and stock tanks tethered by a web of primitive dirt roads.  Jackrabbit jump scares and ravens casting shadows on the tire-torn red-earth roads are the untamed supporting characters that break the dead silence.

Junipers are the dominant trees in the area

Within a half mile of easy walking, the rounded ridges of the Buckskin Hills appear, closing in in the road.  

Glimpses of distant mountains abound

Here, the landscape rises above its ordinariness with first glimpses of breathtaking mountain vistas.  Getting to the big vistas feels like a cheat.  

Ranch relics dot the landscape

There’s no grueling climb, no long-distance haul; they just creep up and spill the goods.  From this perch above the chasm of Fossil Springs, panoramic views include looks at the mountains and mesas of three National Forests: Coconino, Tonto and Prescott.  At the 1.5-mile point, the road meets and unnamed water hole.  Wrapped in metal gates and wire, the water containment serves wildlife and domestic cattle, especially during summer heat and prolonged droughts.  Oaks, junipers and ash trees huddle in the dammed drainage nearby providing shade, cover and nesting environments adjacent to the life-giving oasis.  More surprises and quiet beauty lie ahead on Forest Road 9C and its tangents for hikers willing to bet on the outwardly ordinary.

LENGTH:  3 miles to the water hole and back

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION:  6,042 – 5,707 feet

GETTING THERE:

From Interstate 17 in Camp Verde, go 21 miles east (toward Payson) on State Route 260 to Forest Road 9C on the right between mileposts 238 and 239.  Park in the turnouts. Be sure to close the access gate behind you.

GALLERY SHOW

MARE CZINAR ARIZONA HIKING GALLERY SHOW

My oil paintings of my hikes on Arizona trails will be featured in a gallery show this fall. 

Hiking in Arizona’s diverse terrain is my inspiration.  With camera and note pad in hand, I’ve hiked thousands of miles across the state—from deserts to alpine tundra—documenting remote footpaths, long distance trails and obscure back roads.  

I’ve been sharing my travels through words and photos with readers of this blog and local media for years.  While photos and written words are adequate descriptors, they are just code---two dimensional attempts at expressing the heady experience of being in nature. 

To bridge the gap between adequate and exquisite, I decided to reignite my old passion of painting to better communicate why the Arizona wilds are so enchanting. 

Paint fills the void.  Using my trail photos as guides, I employ oil paint to merge obvious observations and visceral memories into hybrid portrayals that invite viewer participation.

WHEN: opening reception November 7, 2025. 6-9 p.m.

WHERE: Olney Gallery, Roosevelt Row, Downtown Phoenix

 

Black Canyon National Recreation Trail: Emery Henderson Segment

BLACK CANYON NATIONAL RECREATION TRAIL: EMERY HENDERSON SEGMENT

New River Mountains seen from Black Canyon Trail

The Emery Henderson trailhead on New River Road is one of the most convenient points of access to the Black Canyon National Recreation Trail from the Phoenix area. 

Looking north on the Black Canyon Trail

The 100+-mile historic route runs north from Carefree Highway to the Verde Valley roughly parallelling Interstate 17 along its rugged course.  

Saguaros are a key attraction on the hike

The second leg in the trail, the Emery Henderson segment

straddles desert flats and floodplains between the freeway and the Agua Fria River that spills into Lake Pleasant in the northwest Valley. 

The Emery Henderson trailhead

Its 4-mile length wanders through the last vestiges of neon and industry before ducking into mountainous backcountry, but not before delivering one of the best trips through saguaro cactus country anywhere. 

Some old trail posts are still standing along the route

But, before it gets to the good stuff, hikers must trudge through a half mile of bland terrain, cross the North El Paso Gasline Road and listen to  firearms noise from a nearby shooting range. Sucking up these minor annoyances pays off quickly, though.

An impressive specimen in the Agua Fria floodplain

Following a rocky two-track the trail soon departs the “Sahara of the Suburbs” and tucks into shadeless plains of cholla and creosote surrounded by mountain ranges.  The distinctive mound of 2,980-foot Gavilan Peak dominates the eastern horizon while band of mesas including 2,857-foor Wild Burro Mesa bolster the western skyline. Where the route begins an easy descent into the floodplains of the Agua Fria River, desert flora, led by majestic saguaros, clutters runoff channels and crumbling foothills. 

New River Mountains to the northeast

Dead saguaros are havens for wildlife

Gigantic saguaros sprout from an earthen stew of white quartz chunks, basalt blobs, assorted metamorphic stones and sediments. This complex show of  geology belies the area’s rich mining history.

But it’s the saguaros that are the segment's signature feature.  They huddle in masses around gullies, stand as lone sentinels over pebbly flats and show up as contorted,zoomorphic forms begging to be named. Even the dead ones live on as havens for wildlife and subjects for detail-driven photographers. A smattering of ironwoods and Palo Verde trees sink roots deep into the major drainages that the trail crosses, providing what little shade the trail has to offer.

Desert icons on the Black Canyon Trail

Name that saguaro

The segment ends where the 3.2-mile Boy Scout Loop takes off.  Hikers may turn back here for a moderate 7.6-mile trek or loop around for a long 10-miler. Either way, Arizona’s most iconic cacti are constant trailside companions.

LENGTH:

7.6 miles roundtrip to the loop and back

10.4 miles roundtrip with loop

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION: 1,858  1,989

1,850-1,974 feet to the loop

1,850- 2,315 feet with loop

GETTING THERE:

Emery Henderson Trailhead:

From Phoenix, take I-17 north to exit 232 (New River Road). Turn left and follow New River Road for 3 miles and look for the Emery Henderson Trailhead turn off on the right. The roads are paved all the way to the trailhead where there are restrooms (out of order at this writing), hitching posts, covered picnic areas and plenty of parking and an occasional site host.

INFO & MAPS:

https://bctaz.org/

 

 

Happy New Year

A belated Happy New Year, hikers!  

I've been enjoying "dry January" by taking a break from real hiking (walking between pubs, shops and  restaurants does not count) to cart around visitors from out of state (my sisters from Connecticut pictured here in Sedona), get some house/yard work done, host tables at events and keep up with my day job.  I'm itching to get back on the trails! Stay tuned. 

Walker Basin Trail

WALKER BASIN TRAIL #81

Wide-ranging vistas on the Walker Basin Trail

See this story on AZCentral: https://www.azcentral.com/story/travel/arizona/hiking/2025/01/03/walker-basin-trail-hike/77178067007/

From the high point of the Walker Basin Trail, echoes of the area’s ranching history linger in bits of barbed wire, stock tanks and weedy livestock tracks.

Mesas, buttes and ravines define the trail

  Creative minds might conjure images of cattle trains or sheep drovers, only to be jolted back to the 21^st century by the appearance of contemporary cattle or sheep. 

Forest Road 9201C leads to the upper trailhead

It’s not unusual for domestic livestock grazing among junipers and cacti to deliver jump scares to distracted trail users in this corrugated back country.

Red rock outcrop over Walker Creek

Situated between the Wet Beaver Creek and West Clear Creek Wilderness areas, Walker Basin Trail No. 81 winds through a riffled terrain of high desert plateaus and water-carved canyons. 

Limestone ledges overlooking the Verde Valley

The former livestock trail in Coconino National Forest located roughly 40 miles south of Flagstaff and 20 miles southeast of Sedona offers up spectacular glimpses of both the mountain ranges  of central and northern Arizona and Red Rock Country’s iconic geologic formations. 

Moderate but difficult to follow in spots, the entire trail is just over 8 miles long. 

The upper trail parallels a barbed wire fence

However, the best scenic ogling opportunities happen in the first 2.5 miles from the north terminus along Forest Road 618 near the community of Lake Montezuma.  

View from the trail's high point

One of the perks of this under-the-radar trail is that it’s largely ignored, no doubt because it has some serious competition with the nearby Bell Trail that leads to the iconic swimming hole known as The Crack on Wet Beaver Creek. The pleasantly uncluttered route may be hiked as an out-and-back or car shuttle, but for a moderately demanding day hike, a 5-mile up-and-back trek starting at the north trailhead makes for a satisfying outing in the wilds.

The north trailhead proper is located 0.8-mile east of Forest Road 618 (Beaver Creek Road) at the end of FR 9201C, which is open to motorized travel and requires at least a high-clearance vehicle.

Sacred Mountain (center)

 Those with less robust cars may opt to park in the dirt turnouts and walk the road to the trailhead, veering left at the 0.4-mile point to stay on the main road.  

The north trailhead on FR618

The trail is barely visible here

The upper trailhead is marked only by a post-and-wire gate. 

Primitive cairn (left) on the limestone ledges

A crumbling forest service logo sticker and unintelligible letters cling to a post giving no indication that it marks the beginning of the Walker Basin Trail.  Beyond the gate (close it behind you) the route becomes a dusty single track. 

Basket cairns mark part of the lower trail

It’s easy to follow for about the first mile.  Basket cairns (native stones wired into barrel-shaped posts) placed at random intervals help with navigation, but some have toppled over and after a while, they disappear completely.  Sometimes, hand-made rock piles serve as guides where the trail passes through sandy washes and limestone scree. 

The upper trailhead on FR9201C

Where the route begins its uphill crawl, it turns feral, dodging among junipers, cacti and cow pies. At places, the trail is completely obliterated by scrub and loose rock, but hikers can stay on track by tracing a barbed wire fence that roughly parallels the path.  All the way, massive views of Sedona, the Black Hills, Mogollon Rim and Sacred Mountain rise above seamless stretches of high desert rangeland. 

An old juniper frames high desert views

At the 2.2-mile point, the route encounters a series of limestone ledges near the trail’s highpoint that lead to a rocky bench overlooking the Verde Valley.  Beyond the ledges, route-finding becomes more challenging, making the scenic overlook a good turnaround point for a day hike.

LENGTH:

Full trail: 8 miles one way

Up to the ledges: 2.4 miles one way

RATING: moderate

ELEVATION:

Full trail: 3,851 – 5,972 feet

Up to the ledges: 3,851 – 4,368 feet

GETTING THERE:

NORTH TRAILHEAD (as described here):

From Interstate 17 north of Camp Verde, take the Sedona/Oak Creek State Route 179 exit 298 and veer right (east)  onto Forest Road 618.  Continue 4.5 miles on FR618 (Beaver Creek Road)  to the signed Walker Basin Trail sign at Forest Road 9201C. This is directly across from the Wickiup Mesa Trail System Elmore Wash trailhead.  Low clearance vehicles should park here.  The trailhead proper is located 0.8-mile east at the end of FR9201C.

Roads up to the trailhead are maintained dirt suitable for most vehicles.

SOUTH TRAILHEAD:

From Interstate 17 north of Camp Verde, take the Sedona/Oak Creek State Route 179 exit 298 and veer right (east)  onto Forest Road 618. Continue 9 miles on FR618 and turn left (east) onto FR214 (Cedar Flat Road) and go 7.3 miles to the trailhead on FR214B.  A high clearance vehicle is required.

INFO:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/coconino/recarea/?recid=55426

Happy Holidays 2024

                       Happy Holidays Arizona Hikers!

Twisted Sister-Big Sister Loop

TWISTED SISTER-BIG SISTER LOOP

View of Red Mountain from Big Sister Trail

See this story on AZCentral: https://www.azcentral.com/story/travel/arizona/hiking/2024/12/13/hawes-trail-system-twisted-sister-trail/76888922007/

With its big bends, sharp declines, tight edges and hairpin turns, the Twisted Sister Trail embraces its bike-borne heritage.

Salt River Valley seen from Twisted Sister Trail

The rollercoaster-like trail is part of the Sonoran Desert (Hawes) Trail System in Tonto National Forest.  Located between the Salt River and Usery Mountains in Mesa, the system has several access points along Usery Pass Road and Bush Highway.

The Big Sister Trail is all about rocks.

 

Four Peaks viewed from the Twisted Sister Trail

The collection of looped singletrack paths began its evolution from from old livestock and mining trails with the development of the (unofficial) Hawes Trail in 1989. 

Vintage aircraft sometimes fly over the area

In 2005, the trail and several formerly unsanctioned connected routes were adopted into the Tonto National Forest system.   With the combined efforts of the forest service and the  Hawes Trail Alliance, a non-profit organization dedicated to the system’s maintenance, sustainability and future expansion of  the popular recreation hub now has over 60 miles of shared-use routes.

Red Mountain stands over the Salt River

When used as part of a loop hike, the Twisted Sister Trail makes for a moderate-rated hike with outstanding mountain vistas and peeks at the leafy corridor of the Salt River. 

Hawes Trails are well signed

The trek begins with a short walk on the Bush Lite West trail to connect with the Wild Horse Trail that’s part of the Valley-circling Maricopa Trail. 

The green corridor of the Salt River from Wild Horse Trail

At the 0.2-mile point, Twisted Sister spins off to the right and begins its undulating run through saguaro-studded desert in the foothills below the Usery Mountains.  Once through a couple of slippery downhills and wash crossings the route trudges uphill, revealing grander views at each turn.  The massive form of 2,832-foot Red Mountain (also known as S-wegi Do’ag in O’odham, Wi:kawatha in Yavapai and Mount McDowell, Fire Rock and Gunsight Butte) is a constant presence on the west side of the river on the Salt River Pima-Maricopa Indian Community at the confluence with the Verde River.  To the north, iconic Four Peaks hover over the mountains of Tonto National Forest and on the distant west horizon, Camelback Mountain rises above city haze. After just under a mile of steady but not-to-tough climbing, the trail meets a three-way junction.

Saguaros and boulders on Big Sister Trail

Mountains of Tonto National Forest on horizon

For a short loop hike, veer left onto the Big Sister Trail.  Whereas Twisted Sister was all about views, Big Sister is all about rocks.  Clinging to boulder-strewn slopes, the slim path weaves through impressive globs of granite, boulder ridges and natural stone sculptures.  Midway through the 1-mile return leg, the trail gives up the widest-angle views of the Salt River Valley and on lucky days, grazing wild horses and vintage aircraft from The Commemorative Air Force Aviation Museum can be spotted flying overhead. 

LENGTH: 3.6 miles

RATING: moderate for hiking, difficult for bikes

ELEVATION:  1,387 – 1,793 feet

GETTING THERE:

From U.S. 60 in Mesa, take the Power Road exit 188 and continue north (Power Road turns into Bush Highway) to the Wild Horse trailhead on the right between mile posts 23 and 24.

INFO:

https://www.fs.usda.gov/tonto

https://hawestrailalliance.com/